Smith and Wesson serial number search

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ABEHE3EP

New member
carguychris - Thank you

carguychris...thanks for the correction on terminology and input. It is a top-break 32 Double Action 4th Model. What is unusual is every account I've read says they came with black rubber grips. I have also seen after market Mother of Pearl grips, but none that have the S&W brass logo in the grips. I think I'll just get the letter from S&W.
 
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wildhawk66

New member
Hello. I just fell into a Model 19 and not only do I know almost nothing about it, it's also my first Smith. Any info on it would be much appreciated. It's a 4"model with a serial number of K521xxx. Thank you.
 
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carguychris

New member
just picked up an older S&W .38 what I believe is a chiefs special. I ran it down to my local gun store and was told it was at least 50 years old and too hang onto it. The serial is 86XX.
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If it's chambered in .38Spl (.38 S&W SPL), it's a 1952 Chief's Special, and you got a smoking hot deal if it's anywhere near original. :D

If it's chambered in .38 S&W (.38 S&W CTG), it's a .38/32 Terrier made in the early 20's sometime, and it's not quite a smoking hot deal but still not bad. ;)
I have been given what was identified as a "Model 37". The s/n is BPH5XXX. It seems to be a lightweight gun but does not have "Airweight" or "Lightweight" on it anywhere. The finish is blue, but not the shiny blue I see on most Model 37's advertised for sale.
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November 1993. S&W deleted the "AIRWEIGHT" block lettering on the RH side of the barrel in early 1993 but did not start laser-engraving the "Airweight" script on the sideplate until 1994. The relatively few guns made in the interim with no Airweight markings whatsoever are potential collector's items, so congrats on owning one. :cool: Oh yeah, the matte blue finish was introduced in 1992, but I'm not sure how rare it is.
 
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kamerer

New member
Looks like there's some catching up to do here; Jim and Chris must both be away right now!

Huey148 -sounds like a 1952 Chiefs Special. It is .38 Special or .38 S&W? Two different calibers. A picture would help a lot - the more the better, barrel side close ups, too.

Sticking - What I do with old revolvers is first clean them thoroughly. Go to the S&W forum and you can find details about how to get the sideplate off in the 1945-up forum in the FAQs. It is slightly tricky. DO NOT pry the sideplate off - it "vibrates off" - read about. Once that's done, clean it out with brake cleaner - it will dissolve old lubes that have dried to gunk and the powder and crud they have accumulated. Once it's clean, you lube only the working surfaces lightly with a high-quality grease, and don't over-oil it - that's what causes these problems over time.

It may have a mechanical problem that needs professional attention - but this is always my go-to first step, and it takes care of 95% of "new old gun" problems.

If the nickel is intact and not flaking off or scarred up, and the timing is good, you should proceed to your local police department and turn yourself in for theft for paying $150 for that. In good shape, those are very desirable.
 
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kamerer

New member
Oh, I see Carguychris is back and helped the next one.

Wildhawk66 - your gun is an older, 1963 model. Should have diamond-centered "magna" grips on it, kinda like the ones pictured on the M&P below. Should also have the S/N inside the right grip panel. It was introduced in 1955 as the "357 Combat Magnum" and became the "Model 19" in 1957. In 1970, a Stainless model was made, called the "Model 66."

A picture would be interesting if you have one - these old magnums are great. The 4" was the standard length for most of it's run. There were a few 6" and longer ones later, as well as 2.5", too (I have two of those).

Major note about these is to not shoot hyper-velocity "light" magnum loads - 125gr. or 110gr., etc. Don't shoot magnums less than 158gr, or it can create flame cutting on the top strap and possibly crack the forcing cone of the barrel. These loads came later, and the design of the gun isn't up to those loads. Because of this, in 1980 S&W introduced the model 586/686 - slightly beefier cylinder and yoke/barrel area. The 19/66 was discontinued in the late 90s, I believe.

IMGP2671.jpg
 
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deepseasailor

New member
38 S & W Spl

I have an old 38 S & W SPL, serial number - 7J1XXX. Can anyone tell me how old it is? Is it a Chief's Special? Any info will be greatly appreciated.
 
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wildhawk66

New member
Kamerer,

Thank you very much for your time and the detailed reply. That was a lot of great info, especially the load recommendations as I would have more than likely made the mistake of using an improper round.

One of the reasons I bought this piece is that it has an entertaining history. Apparently it was a duty weapon for an San Jose area officer in the 60's and 70's and then was eventually sold as a private transaction to an officer at my department around 1980. Shortly after that it was stolen from the officers home during a burg. and used in a crime/shootout (actully true though I thought he was pulling my leg at first) and eventually returned after being collected by San Jose PD at the crime scene. Since then it has collected dust in our department safe until this past week when I purchased it.

I checked the grip and it doesn't match the diamond pattern in the picture, so it must have been replaced at some point. The person I bought it from believes the original owner was an armorer for his department and he believes a custom trigger was also installed.

I've attached a couple of pics. The gun is actually in much better shape than the pics make it look as it had 20+ years of dust/grime on it at the time the pics were taken. The only real wear is some light to moderate holster burn at the muzzle. So neither of us knew what it was worth and we eventually agreed on $120. Since the guy I bought it from is a good friend I don't have any intention of taking him for a ride. Do I owe him some more money? Thank you again for your help.
 
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laytonj1

New member
I have an old 38 S & W SPL, serial number - 7J1XXX. Can anyone tell me how old it is? Is it a Chief's Special? Any info will be greatly appreciated.
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1983.
That serial number series was used for several models. When you open the cylinder, you'll see the model number stamped on the frame just above where the yoke pivots.
A model 36 is a Chiefs Special
A model 37 is a Chiefs Special Airweight
A model 38 is a Bodyguard Airweight
And a model 49 is a Bodyguard

Jim
 
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deepseasailor

New member
Jim,

It can't be a 1983 model, because this was my fathers gun and he's been dead since 1979.

Was I giving the wrong number? Is that just a part number?
 
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laytonj1

New member
It can't be a 1983 model, because this was my fathers gun and he's been dead since 1979.
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Doh!! My apologies. It's 1971/72.
The 3rd edition of SCSW shows 1983 as 1J18601 - xxxx while the second edition shows 1983 as 1J18601 - 1Jxxxx.
There have been questions brought up before about the accuracy of the J series serial numbers.

Jim

Early J frame serial numbers
For models 36, 37, 38, 49, 50 and pre model number versions.

1950 = start at 1
1952 = 7369 - 21342
1953 = 28916
1955 = 55050 - 75000
1957 = 117770 - 125000
1962 = starts at 295000
1969 = ends at 786544

J serial Prefix serial numbers.
For models 36, 37, 38, 49, 50.

1969-1970 = J1 - J99999
1971-1972 = 1J1 - 999J99
1973-1974 = J100000 - J250000
1975-1976 = J250001 - J370000
1976-1977 = J370001 - J610000
1977-1978 = J610001 - J670000
1979-1980 = J670001 - J760000
1981 = J760001 - J915400
1982 = J915401 - 1J18600
1983 = 1J18601 - 1JXXXX

1955 - 4 screw side plate ends
1957 - stamping of model number at 125000
1966 - flat latch ends
1968 - diamond grips end
1975 - heavy barrel standard
1982 - end pinned barrel
 
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huey148

New member
Thanks Chris and Kramer!!

Just got my pistol back from a local gunsmith and he pretty much confirmed what you both said. He put the age of the pistol at 1952 also and said that there was a large amount of build up gunk inside that was causing the return spring (or something to that affect) bind up and not reset the action completely. Now the bad news, he said that it had been re-nickeled, and badly at that. Some of the gunk was actually nickel plating that had gotten into the "guts" of the pistol. He said that for $150 I got a great deal but it would not be worth as much on the collectors market because of that.

Still, it is the perfect CCW weapon for me here in Ohio. Including the $60 bucks that the gunsmith charged me and $20 for an Uncle Mike's concealment holster, I paid a total of $230 for this piece and saved over $150 - $200 off the price of a new comparable model. Not to mention what I would of spent to buy a Glock G27 or equivalent if I went that route.

Thank both of you for providing help when I needed it!!!:D:D:D:)
 
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TeMaK

New member
Model 17

Hi All
I just acquired a Model 17-4 with 6" barrel. Would appreciate it if someone could help me with her date of manufacture. Serial # is 93K40**. In about 90% overall condition. TT-TH-TG(not to gun). Very smooth action. Look forward to trying her out soon.
Thank you very much for any help with the serial #.
TaKe CaRe
Ted
 
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carguychris

New member
Now the bad news, he said that it had been re-nickeled, and badly at that. Some of the gunk was actually nickel plating that had gotten into the "guts" of the pistol. He said that for $150 I got a great deal but it would not be worth as much on the collectors market because of that.
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This is a good time to mention that a good way for a n00b to readily identify a reblued or renickeled modern S&W revolver is to look at the trigger and particularly the hammer. They normally have a color case hardened finish, which appears dull grey with bluish or greenish splotches (look at the M&P in Kamerer's post). The triggers were sometimes hard chromed at the factory, but the hammer should be color case.

A blued hammer and trigger, or a shiny nickeled hammer, are surefire indications of a cheapo refinish job. :(
 
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dr_cerebro

New member
Please...

Please, I bought a used S&W Revolver. It is a beauty. It was expensive because the owner didn't wanted it to sell it. But he didn't know even Model or year of this revolver.

Can somebody help me, please?
I'd like to know Model and year

Serial number is: S8551XX
 
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rustynail

New member
Help...Need Info

I have a 6 shot air weight 38 snub nose. It weighs 18.2 oz and the serial number begins with C317xxx. Does anyone have info on the year and model?
 
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laytonj1

New member
I recently bought an S&W mod 19-3, s/n: K9038xx, Can someone look that one up for me?
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1969.


Please, I bought a used S&W Revolver. It is a beauty. It was expensive because the owner didn't wanted it to sell it. But he didn't know even Model or year of this revolver.

Can somebody help me, please?
I'd like to know Model and year

Serial number is: S8551XX
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"S" prefix serial numbers are usually for N frames but stop at S333454. Could it be S8551X ? And what is the caliber?

I have a 6 shot air weight 38 snub nose. It weighs 18.2 oz and the serial number begins with C317xxx. Does anyone have info on the year and model?
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Pre model 12 (38 Military & Police Airweight), serial puts it at 1954 - 1956

Jim
 
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