SLOWER POWDER
I constantly see where reloaders are urged to use the various fast burn rate powders for reloading semi-auto handguns. I use the slowest powder that I can get decent velocities out of. Also this precludes a double charge, because it would overflow the case. The slower burn rate powders have a flatter pressure curve, so they tend to be safer when it comes to bulging cases or ruptures.
When I started a couple months ago to reload for my M22 glock, I looked at my powder supply for a likely candidate for it. I had a 5 pounder of SR 4756 I had bought for steel shotshells. The advent of Alliant steel powder had pushed that to the back of the powder box. It makes an excellent powder for the 165 gr. west coast bullets. 7.2 grains gives me1,075 fps. and is easy on the brass.
Dawg;
I agree with whoever said he don't want any pistol he CAN"T reload for. If I had to buy only factory ammo for mine, I couldn't shoot, PERIOD. Congratulations on having a good job so you can afford to shoot only factory shells. I'm sure the owner of where ever you buy your shells is glad to see you coming.
A fellow on glock talk calls himself signifigant, is a wizz at programing computers. He went to a lot of work on a spreadsheet for figureing relading cost. He then offered it to anyone to download free. I input my costs for my .40 reloads and came up with $4.53 per box of 50. At that cost I can practice a lot and shoot as many matches as I can make it to. Go to
http://www.glocktalk.com/ and click on the reloading category. Then look for a thread by signifigant about a reloading cost spread sheet. He has a tab on the spreadsheet for printing neat labels for your boxes. It uses avery 2 x 4 address labels.