You’re supposed to lube a gun?? (sarc). I have a rag on my bench with so many different lubricants in it I really don’t know what I’m using, I do know that it is slickey. I have quite a few that is up in the ginger years and has 1,000’s upon 1,000 of rounds through them with no lube related or corrosion problems. Seems a waste of time to worry about what works best. Thing to do would be to use what you’re comfortable with and not worry about it.
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Motor oil as gun lube? Yes/No, which one?
- Thread starter Pistoler0
- Start date
And there is the reason I quit messing around with motor oils.I used Mobil One Synthetic 0w-20 for many years. Until.... I was at a competition in late October and the temps took a sudden dive. It went from 50 degrees to 20 in about 2 hours. My pistol started choking. 0w motor oil should not have been affected at all, but it did. A guy next to me let me try his oil, Pro Shot CLP, and my pistol started working like it should. I now use it exclusively.
Now I use either "old" formula FP10 or Weapon Shield with preference to Weapon Shield because it smells of cinnamon.
I went through them all (including Mobil-1) ...... and Breakfree CLP is still my comfort retreat.
But aside from Lubriplate as light grease, Hornady 1-Shot now does it all.
But aside from Lubriplate as light grease, Hornady 1-Shot now does it all.
Quote:
Originally Posted by JustJake:
Mobil 1 Synthetic. Better than CLP or the pricer Slip 2000 EWL.
Just use it sparingly. No need to bath your pistol in it.
The secret synthetic ingredients Mobil puts in the sauce.What makes it better than CLP ?
Mike Irwin
Staff
If you're not using something that's marked "GUN ERL!" and costs you about $9,200 a gallon, then you just don't care about your firearms!
Although that is not a gun issue, Two stroke engines are more powerful than four-cycle in that every second stroke is a power stroke where as it is only one in four for a four-cycle. I rode both a four-cycle and a two-stroke 250cc's back in the day. The difference was like night and day. Had to get the RPM's way up (250 BSA) before the four-cycle had any power, whereas the two-stroke (250 Yamaha), would climb up out of a ditch at low RPMs.Nitro burning funny cars and dragsters also use Castor (Bean) oil. If a 2 stroke is making more power? That would be the fuel, not the oil in it.
bamaranger
New member
oil
I've heard this on and off over the years, mostly from country folk who improvised with a variety of products and materials regards other tasks ands items as well, sort of a lifestyle thing, brought on by availability and economics too. A sort of "use what ya got" attitude.
I'd think that any lube is likely better than none, except in certain environments, cold and sand for one. Of late, I'm using Ballistol, largely because of its varied applications, leather for one.
I've heard this on and off over the years, mostly from country folk who improvised with a variety of products and materials regards other tasks ands items as well, sort of a lifestyle thing, brought on by availability and economics too. A sort of "use what ya got" attitude.
I'd think that any lube is likely better than none, except in certain environments, cold and sand for one. Of late, I'm using Ballistol, largely because of its varied applications, leather for one.
Jim Watson
New member
A little bottle of castor oil from the drugstore would oil a lot of guns, $6.79 for 4 oz at Walgreens. If you really like the results, it is $40 a gallon from several sources.
Quote:
Originally Posted by eflyguy View Post
Oh yeah, castor oil! I used it in my 2-stroke motorcycle because it's what race bikes used, so it gave me extra power! Smelled awesome!
My grandfather used it for his arthritis. You can use it for a lot.
It was used to lube WWI fighter plane engines, and WWI fighter pilots had constant diarrhea.
Double Naught Spy
New member
Grant Cunningham is a well known and respected Subject Matter Expert. What is your level of qualification to claim he doesn't know what he's talking about?
For the life of me, I cannot find among the prayer and self defense books where Cunningham is a lubrication or materials sciences expert. He may be an expert in some other area, but not this one....which is the only one relevant to the discussion. In fact, he explicitly states that he is NOT an expert on lubrication. From the link you provided, Moonglum,
Finally, note that the foregoing is a layman’s understanding of lubrication technology. I don’t pretend to be an expert, just a well-informed amateur...
So, not a "Subject Matter Expert" in this case.
Jim Watson
New member
It was used to lube WWI fighter plane engines, and WWI fighter pilots had constant diarrhea.
A diet of brandy and milk did something to relieve that symptom of castor oil blowback from the rotary engine.
The other drawback was that castor oil gums rapidly at high temperature. Not a serious problem for aero engines and race car engines that did not go long between teardowns. Does a gun get hot enough to matter?
Geezerbiker
New member
If you decide to play with castor bean oil be sure and really clean the hell out of your gun first. Castor bean oil gums up with age and even worse, doesn't play well with mineral based oils. I've seen it turn to a plastic like solid when mixed with mineral based oils...
Even in racing 2 stroke bikes, it was the practice to use it all up or let it sit in a can over the weekend so that when the bean oil spoiled, it could be removed with a paint filter so the gas could be salvaged. I've never seen it used in an oil injection system and I don't know how much prep work it would take to make one safe for castor. On the upside, caster oil will give you the lowest coefficient of friction of any oil you can buy. It's a PITA to use but in the racing world, every little performance boost no matter how small it considered worth it...
BTW, model airplane fuel contains castor oil for a lubricant. It doesn't spoil in the alcohol based fuels and that what model airplane engines have that cool smell...
Tony
Even in racing 2 stroke bikes, it was the practice to use it all up or let it sit in a can over the weekend so that when the bean oil spoiled, it could be removed with a paint filter so the gas could be salvaged. I've never seen it used in an oil injection system and I don't know how much prep work it would take to make one safe for castor. On the upside, caster oil will give you the lowest coefficient of friction of any oil you can buy. It's a PITA to use but in the racing world, every little performance boost no matter how small it considered worth it...
BTW, model airplane fuel contains castor oil for a lubricant. It doesn't spoil in the alcohol based fuels and that what model airplane engines have that cool smell...
Tony
I'm the one who mentioned castor bean oil. I was jokingly poking at motorcycle racers as another form of lube nut.
I did not intend to suggest castor oil as gun lube.
But I suppose if some folks can try CLR as bore cleaner.....???
Trust me on this,its a bad idea to eat Tide Pods.
I did not intend to suggest castor oil as gun lube.
But I suppose if some folks can try CLR as bore cleaner.....???
Trust me on this,its a bad idea to eat Tide Pods.
Carl the Floor Walker
Moderator
Well said. I was going to say something as well, as these kind of comments have become so regular, I just ignored it. But glad you stepped up and said something.For the life of me, I cannot find among the prayer and self defense books where Cunningham is a lubrication or materials sciences expert. He may be an expert in some other area, but not this one....which is the only one relevant to the discussion. In fact, he explicitly states that he is NOT an expert on lubrication. From the link you provided, Moonglum,
So, not a "Subject Matter Expert" in this case.
Honestly, I don't hear much about guns wearing out from someone using an oil that was less than ideal. For the most part, the lubrication requirements of guns are not that stringent.
Also, guns will tell you if they're getting gummed up or getting too dry if you pay attention.
Most any oil is more than adequate if lubrication is all that's expected of it and if the owner is willing to keep on top of things.
My feelings, based on my experience, exactly. I couldn't have said it any better.
Like most old timers I have a box full of different Gun Oils and Solvents.
I like Rem Oil to wipe guns down. I have a tube of Super Lube Multi-Purpose Synthetic Grease I use on my Contender and Encore Hinge Pins. I have Dupont Teflon Non-Stick Dry Film Lubricant that I use once in a while. I have Lucas Gun Oil, Break Free, Ballistol, Ams Oil Firearms Cleaner, Sheath,Hoppes #9 Moly, Rem Oil Dry Lubricant, Kroil, Lubriplate No. 105 Grease, MDL Rust Inhibitor/Lubricant, Refridgeration Oil, WD40, and my Muzzle Loader barrel does well with Bore Butter. I also keep Ed's Red around mixed 1/2 Gallon at a time. I lube gun parts now and again with Ed's Red, but I mostly use it on Hi-Lift Jacks, Come Alongs, etc. around the farm. I use about as much spray Break Cleaner as I go Spray Gun Cleaner, and can not tell any difference. I have Hoppes #9 Bore Cleaner, Butches, and a few more if I look. I also have a homemade bore cleaner from an old WWI era recipe that works fairly well for general purpose use.
An old friend hunts with an Engineer who works for a company who makes a Gun Lubricant among lots of other things. Per the engineer their Gun Oil is basicly Ed's Red. I wonder how many more are repackaged, or a blend of readily available products in a fancy bottle. I seriously doubt a lot of new science goes into most products.
I use a lot of the products listed above to use them up, instead of throwing them out. Lots of the products I have on hand, I never plan to purchase again.
My point lots of different products work. Some work better than others for some applications. Some stay on parts better, some have better corrosion protection, some take heat better, and some are probably Snake Oil that you could make a better product at home.
Bob R
I like Rem Oil to wipe guns down. I have a tube of Super Lube Multi-Purpose Synthetic Grease I use on my Contender and Encore Hinge Pins. I have Dupont Teflon Non-Stick Dry Film Lubricant that I use once in a while. I have Lucas Gun Oil, Break Free, Ballistol, Ams Oil Firearms Cleaner, Sheath,Hoppes #9 Moly, Rem Oil Dry Lubricant, Kroil, Lubriplate No. 105 Grease, MDL Rust Inhibitor/Lubricant, Refridgeration Oil, WD40, and my Muzzle Loader barrel does well with Bore Butter. I also keep Ed's Red around mixed 1/2 Gallon at a time. I lube gun parts now and again with Ed's Red, but I mostly use it on Hi-Lift Jacks, Come Alongs, etc. around the farm. I use about as much spray Break Cleaner as I go Spray Gun Cleaner, and can not tell any difference. I have Hoppes #9 Bore Cleaner, Butches, and a few more if I look. I also have a homemade bore cleaner from an old WWI era recipe that works fairly well for general purpose use.
An old friend hunts with an Engineer who works for a company who makes a Gun Lubricant among lots of other things. Per the engineer their Gun Oil is basicly Ed's Red. I wonder how many more are repackaged, or a blend of readily available products in a fancy bottle. I seriously doubt a lot of new science goes into most products.
I use a lot of the products listed above to use them up, instead of throwing them out. Lots of the products I have on hand, I never plan to purchase again.
My point lots of different products work. Some work better than others for some applications. Some stay on parts better, some have better corrosion protection, some take heat better, and some are probably Snake Oil that you could make a better product at home.
Bob R
The Happy kaboomer
New member
Mobil One...................Used by many.
I was getting very concerned, it's been almost a month since the last "what oil" thread ! Run whatever you have lying around your workshop. Stop working about what the other guy uses. My famous quote "any oil is better than no oil"
I use new leftover mobil 1 from my Harley oil changes. With guns, less oil is better.
I use new leftover mobil 1 from my Harley oil changes. With guns, less oil is better.