Grant Cunningham is a well known and respected Subject Matter Expert. What is your level of qualification to claim he doesn't know what he's talking about?
Motor oil as gun lube? Yes/No, which one?
- Thread starter Pistoler0
- Start date
I read something about motor oils having some/more "stuff" in them that wouldn't be in a product intended for human contact, as "gun oil" apparently is. That said, friends have used Mobil 1 for years, without apparent harm.
For the tiny amounts used, I don't have a problem paying $500/gal, or whatever gun products cost; I use a 2oz bottle of lube that I have had for years.
For the tiny amounts used, I don't have a problem paying $500/gal, or whatever gun products cost; I use a 2oz bottle of lube that I have had for years.
603Country
New member
These days I use Slip 2000 EWL. That is some super slippery lube. I had an old 22 auto loader that had a cycling problem. I tried for years to find a way to fix it - new parts. It just kept on stove piping. When I got the new lube, I used it on the old 22, and darned if the old rifle started cycling properly. I use it on gun insides. On the outside I just wipe it down with an old oily piece of T shirt. I think the oil on the rag is sewing machine oil that I swiped from the wife. I wanted a light oil.
I took an accidental bath in the river while fly fishing earlier this summer. Right up to my neck. My S&W 586-3 was in an IWB holster. Chipped the wood target grips as my tailbone hit the rocks on the way in.
Got home, sprayed it inside (via behind trigger, sides of hammer, etc.), till it was dripping with WD-40, then removed the grips and gave it a 45 min bath in 5W30 motor oil, throughly working the action several times. After wiping it off and allowing it to drip dry some more overnight, I swear the action is smoother now than it was before! Bluing even looks better.
Got home, sprayed it inside (via behind trigger, sides of hammer, etc.), till it was dripping with WD-40, then removed the grips and gave it a 45 min bath in 5W30 motor oil, throughly working the action several times. After wiping it off and allowing it to drip dry some more overnight, I swear the action is smoother now than it was before! Bluing even looks better.
Aguila Blanca
Staff
The author doesn't know what he's writing about.Mr.RevolverGuy said:
Oil floating on water isn't a question of "breaking the surface tension" of the water. It's a question of density/specific gravity. Oils are less dense (lower specific gravity) than water, so they rise to the surface and float on top.
http://avstop.com/ac/Aviation_Maintenance_Technician_Handbook_General/images/fig3_1.jpg
Bill DeShivs
New member
As I have said many times here- I have a little squirt bottle that I filled wit WD 40 about 8-10 years ago. It sits in my vault. As of today-same as many years ago-all the carrier has evaporated and what is left is a light mineral oil. No varnish, no drying up.
I wonder how many of these "experts" that diss WD 40 have done an experiment like that? I wonder how many have used it for 50 years like I have?
Yes, it was designed as a water displacer. It displaces water with mineral oil in a carrier- the very same mineral oil that is in most "gun oils."
While there are better lubricants, one could do a lot worse than having a can of WD 40 around.
I wonder how many of these "experts" that diss WD 40 have done an experiment like that? I wonder how many have used it for 50 years like I have?
Yes, it was designed as a water displacer. It displaces water with mineral oil in a carrier- the very same mineral oil that is in most "gun oils."
While there are better lubricants, one could do a lot worse than having a can of WD 40 around.
Mulebuk Mojo
Moderator
I agree, I met a guy many years ago who claimed he used it on his back when it would act up, who knows. The problem with WD-40 it doesn't last but in a pinch it's probably better than spit.
But the honest truth with all this oil this and oil that is merely hillbilly tripping over nickels to only save pennies.
Geezerbiker
New member
Ed Harris recommended using automatic transmission fluid for lubricating guns. I've been using it for years and I still have 2/3s of a bottle left.
When lubing calls for grease, I use extreme pressure lube made for auto constant velocity joints. It's sold in smaller containers than other greases and works very well. I keep it around for all sorts of things that need a little grease...
Tony
When lubing calls for grease, I use extreme pressure lube made for auto constant velocity joints. It's sold in smaller containers than other greases and works very well. I keep it around for all sorts of things that need a little grease...
Tony
If you want to use an automotive product, ATF is probably better than motor oil. Except for the red coloring, I suppose.
Not that either one is really a great choice--but then the lubrication needs of firearms that can be met with oil aren't especially stressing.
I've gotten to where I look for the following properties in a gun lubricant.
1. Low or no odor.
2. Non-toxic or low toxicity once applied.
3. Good corrosion protection.
4. Doesn't stain.
5. Works well when used sparingly and stays in place so it doesn't get splattered onto shooting glasses or end up soaking into holsters or clothes.
Not that either one is really a great choice--but then the lubrication needs of firearms that can be met with oil aren't especially stressing.
I've gotten to where I look for the following properties in a gun lubricant.
1. Low or no odor.
2. Non-toxic or low toxicity once applied.
3. Good corrosion protection.
4. Doesn't stain.
5. Works well when used sparingly and stays in place so it doesn't get splattered onto shooting glasses or end up soaking into holsters or clothes.
Several years ago I bought my 3 vat ultrasonic. I use oil in one vat. Each vat holding about 1.5 gal, that required volume. Lucas sells gun oil in the 5 gal size. Having previously bought a one gal of Brownell’s oil, between the two I’m done chasing oil by brand. Now if I buy oil, I buy it for the container or for a special purpose. Lucas also sells a container of grease that will carry you ‘til the Klingons get here. A hobbyist gunsmith and general purpose workbench needs light, medium and heavy oil and some grease. Applicators and containers are dependent on what and where you need to stop the squeak, preserve the device or save the flux gate capacitor. Solvents are also a handy thing to safely have on hand. Some are safer than others but Safety Data Sheets were invented because someone did not play safe with their bench chemicals. Folks who grew up with solvents or worked with them consider them essential…..but in a combat environment you can get by with oil and jet fuel from the crash site.
Remember into the first of the 20th Century,and maybe into WW2, Sperm oil from whales was the finest instrument oil,the sort of oil that would be used in a fine watch.
Yes,oils and lubes are engineered for specific applications. For the life of me I can't figure out why people lay awake at night trying to figure out which oil engineered for a different purpose would make better gun oil than gun oil.
Remarkably,the criteria used to select this magic oil,whether Mobil 1 or ATF or whatever,is about what "Feels" like a good idea.
You could get by as well with Vaseline and baby oil.(Probably) Those just aren't "cool"
Most machine shops I've worked in relied on two lube oils. What passed for light spindle oil was Texaco Regal R+O oil .Its a good hydraulic oil,its rated for steam turbines,it works fine for the gears and bearings in a lathe headstock.
One useful characteristic (if you know about it) it IS volatile. Which means if its resting in a sump,it works like vapor paper to inhibit corrosion maybe in the headstock bearings. Is it magic gun oil? I don't think so,but I wouldn't hesitate to put a tiny drop on the threads of my fine old Lufkin micrometer.And it would be fine on hammer pins,etc.
The other oil is Shell Vactra its a heavier oil that clings. Lathe way oil. Any jobs in a gun similar to machine ways?Just don't use a lot. Its a bit sticky.
Now,a secret!! I don't particularly use either on guns!!
My light oil is CLP. I use Tetra Gun grease. Or I have a tube of Castrol fully synthetic grease.Its blue.
Anti-rust preservative? Birchwood Casey RIG has served well a long time.
Hoppes gun oil,Rem Oil,etc have served well a long time.
YOU have to learn what works for you and how to use it, Its rumored Vitalis hair oil served as an Arctic Lube in Korea. Why? It was there and someone tried it out of desperation.
These "Which snake oil?" posts get a lot of traffic,but IMO, they are darn near silly.
If lard and motor mica works for you, or Patchouly oil and grumtine...use it!!.
Tri-Flo CLP and Tetra Gun Grease work for me.
Different lube issue, I wanted to know which gear oil (90 weight) to use in my 85 Toyota gear box,transfer case,hypoid axles. While I could get a lot of opinions,it seemed no one in the parts stores knew.
Plain old Sta-Lube GL-4 90 Wt was right for the trans. Why? No sulphur EP additives. It seems those eat yellow metals,like brass and bronze and synchros.
The hypoid gears in the third members are better served with GL-5 gear oil,which has the sulphur EP additives, No syncros in the pumpkin.
And,FWIW,reading the fine print,Mobil 1 recommended against using Mobil 1 GL-5 in my transmission.
Unless you will do the research to learn what and why, Whatever Andy Granetelli used in his Indy Turbo car has not a thing to do with my 1911.
Everybody knows Klotz Super Techni plate or Golden Spectrum are THE oils to run in your 1976 CZ motorcycle so the HAVE to be the best in everything CZ. (Except for the bean oil in the Speedway bikes. Those butyls made some HP!)
Yes,oils and lubes are engineered for specific applications. For the life of me I can't figure out why people lay awake at night trying to figure out which oil engineered for a different purpose would make better gun oil than gun oil.
Remarkably,the criteria used to select this magic oil,whether Mobil 1 or ATF or whatever,is about what "Feels" like a good idea.
You could get by as well with Vaseline and baby oil.(Probably) Those just aren't "cool"
Most machine shops I've worked in relied on two lube oils. What passed for light spindle oil was Texaco Regal R+O oil .Its a good hydraulic oil,its rated for steam turbines,it works fine for the gears and bearings in a lathe headstock.
One useful characteristic (if you know about it) it IS volatile. Which means if its resting in a sump,it works like vapor paper to inhibit corrosion maybe in the headstock bearings. Is it magic gun oil? I don't think so,but I wouldn't hesitate to put a tiny drop on the threads of my fine old Lufkin micrometer.And it would be fine on hammer pins,etc.
The other oil is Shell Vactra its a heavier oil that clings. Lathe way oil. Any jobs in a gun similar to machine ways?Just don't use a lot. Its a bit sticky.
Now,a secret!! I don't particularly use either on guns!!
My light oil is CLP. I use Tetra Gun grease. Or I have a tube of Castrol fully synthetic grease.Its blue.
Anti-rust preservative? Birchwood Casey RIG has served well a long time.
Hoppes gun oil,Rem Oil,etc have served well a long time.
YOU have to learn what works for you and how to use it, Its rumored Vitalis hair oil served as an Arctic Lube in Korea. Why? It was there and someone tried it out of desperation.
These "Which snake oil?" posts get a lot of traffic,but IMO, they are darn near silly.
If lard and motor mica works for you, or Patchouly oil and grumtine...use it!!.
Tri-Flo CLP and Tetra Gun Grease work for me.
Different lube issue, I wanted to know which gear oil (90 weight) to use in my 85 Toyota gear box,transfer case,hypoid axles. While I could get a lot of opinions,it seemed no one in the parts stores knew.
Plain old Sta-Lube GL-4 90 Wt was right for the trans. Why? No sulphur EP additives. It seems those eat yellow metals,like brass and bronze and synchros.
The hypoid gears in the third members are better served with GL-5 gear oil,which has the sulphur EP additives, No syncros in the pumpkin.
And,FWIW,reading the fine print,Mobil 1 recommended against using Mobil 1 GL-5 in my transmission.
Unless you will do the research to learn what and why, Whatever Andy Granetelli used in his Indy Turbo car has not a thing to do with my 1911.
Everybody knows Klotz Super Techni plate or Golden Spectrum are THE oils to run in your 1976 CZ motorcycle so the HAVE to be the best in everything CZ. (Except for the bean oil in the Speedway bikes. Those butyls made some HP!)
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Jim Watson
New member
I am like the competition shooter who asked what he lubed his very fine and reliable match guns with. "Whatever free sample came in the last match goodie bag."
I also have used motor oil, industrial grease, and Army surplus 'Oil, lubricating, preservative.'
The last thing I bought for the purpose was during the Militec 1 fad. Nothing special. I noticed in company literature that it started out as an industrial gearbox lube additive. So I added most of it to my bottle of 'Oil, lubricating, preservative.'
I also have used motor oil, industrial grease, and Army surplus 'Oil, lubricating, preservative.'
The last thing I bought for the purpose was during the Militec 1 fad. Nothing special. I noticed in company literature that it started out as an industrial gearbox lube additive. So I added most of it to my bottle of 'Oil, lubricating, preservative.'
Bean oil?
I actually have considered using way lube on the slide (ways) of my 1911. I don't remember if I actually did though
What makes it better than CLP ?Mobil 1 Synthetic. Better than CLP or the pricer Slip 2000 EWL.
Just use it sparingly. No need to bath your pistol in it.
<<There's a search function here bro. I bet this has been done A Hundred Times.>>
I had searched for it, Moonglum, and nowhere had I read the point on carcinogens that you just made which is actually really interesting.
Had I not asked, I would have remained oblivious to it.
However... how do we know that gun lube products do not contain carcinogens?
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I see your point but he does state in the article that various engineers and otherwise knowledgeable people have made corrections that have been incorporated into the article.
Fourth paragraph
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