I will add to the Lee bandwagon. I bought one of the Lee Chalanger kits when I started. Worked fine for me, the most fancy or expensive, no. But it's a decent start and if you find out you hate reloading then you are not out much and can sell it off. I picked up over the years other measures, but still like the plastic Lee measure the best, I can easily get consistent results to a tenth of a grain, and that's checked on a beam scale. The aluminum press works for pistol and rifle cases, used mine to do a ton of 30-06. After a few years I bought a Lee cast iron press as a present for me. But still use the others to eight deprime or size unpolished pistol brass in the Lee carbide dies. I have tried other pistol dies, but a Hornady 9mm nitrated set. I kept getting brass stuck in the sizing die, should be no lube but this one was junk. Tossed it went back to Lee, no issues. I don't bench rest shoot but do hunt and punch paper for kicks. All the Lee dies are able to make good ammo.
want to buy a starter set
- Thread starter Doc Holliday 1950
- Start date
I would only recommend RCBS RockChucker presses, dies, and tools for starting out. In reloading sets you will get some items you won't need or use and some tools you need and won't get in the set. If I were starting again I would pick out a press and buy individual tools. The RCBS RockChucker will last you and even your grandkids a lifetime.
Doc... Why do it? Well in my neck of the woods, 9mm commercial is about double what I can load myself with lead alloy commercial bullets using range pick-up brass. It seems like a savings but in reality, I just shoot a lot more......but there's another aspect and that is by accumulating the tools, learning the processes and buying components in bulk now, you'll be worry free if we get into another ammunition drought like that during the Obama years. However, if you're shooting jacketed bullets in your Glocks, there's really no cost savings.
In presses, Lyman makes good equipment though a bit more expensive than Lee...$350 for one Lyman turret press kit currently on Midway's site. Lee makes some good small tools, but in presses, I had absolute frustration with their Loadmaster model when I went over to a progressive press. I ended up buying a Dillon 550B, & now have two of them, and found them to be outstanding. Dillon's got the best warranty in the industry now...one phone call...no BS. But with the Dillon, you'll need to buy some small tools/scale etc. along with the basic press and dies.
I began with a Lyman Tong Tool 310 back in the early 60's. Loaded .243 rifle with it for ground hog shooting in the dairy country of western NY where I grew up. I upgraded to a Herter's #3 cast iron press that I still use...the press was $13 in 1963! The 310 Tong Tool went along with me to college where I loaded all my 9mm and .38 Spl ammunition sitting at my dorm desk. I've kept the Herters press and the Tong tool and still find use for them from time to time.
Here are some general notes:
First & foremost...get a good manual...While I have a dozen or so manuals dating back to my beginnings, the current Lyman 50th Loading Manual is outstanding as a first buy...it has cast as well as jacketed data and a thorough description of reloading processes...it's the best IMHO.
Electronic scales have been a PITA for me...three of them to date...Frankfort Arsenal, and Cabelas...unreliable...went back to a beam scale I've had since '62...a Redding. Powder measures...I have RCBS Uniflows with both large and small measuring cylinders..small needed for pistol loads...a great measure. Funnel..gotta have it for rifle and some pistol.
Trimmers...no need for pistol but necessary for rifle. Chamfering tool...gotta have it.
Tumbler, not necessary. You can wipe cases off if they drop in the sand. I roll mine around on an old towel lightly sprayed with Dillon case lube..works just fine. You don't need pretty brass to shoot!
Mic or calipers...a must have for both rifle and pistol to set overall length of the completed cartridge. Cheap ones do just fine.
Dies...Lee are OK, RCBS, Dillon, Lyman or Redding are better...get carbide for pistol. Case Lube...Imperial for rifle, any spray on for handgun. Helps even with carbide dies.
Priming tool...Lee's break after a yr or so. A good design, lousy pot metal handles that break. Lyman's are good and my current choice. You can prime on your press generally but doing it by hand is better for feel and precision..
Safety glasses... yep... & while we're talking safety, keep your press clean of powder and especially spent primer dust...it carries lead that you can ingest.
All in all, if starting out again...& if I couldn't spring for a Dillon press, I'd go with a Lyman turret or Hornady and use it as a single stage press til I was thoroughly familiar with the operation. A kit is good and will save you some $ but it is a considerable investment....$500+ if you buy good, lifetime stuff. BTW, a good trouble free press will make if fun. And for extensive handgun loading, get a turret or progressive as you'll be loading a lot of ammunition on it.
I predict that you'll shoot more vs. save some money, but if you buy now, & get started right, and buy a supply of components, you'll be worry-free if the November elections put the gun grabbers and hoarders back in power.
PM me, Doc, if you want further clarification. Rod
In presses, Lyman makes good equipment though a bit more expensive than Lee...$350 for one Lyman turret press kit currently on Midway's site. Lee makes some good small tools, but in presses, I had absolute frustration with their Loadmaster model when I went over to a progressive press. I ended up buying a Dillon 550B, & now have two of them, and found them to be outstanding. Dillon's got the best warranty in the industry now...one phone call...no BS. But with the Dillon, you'll need to buy some small tools/scale etc. along with the basic press and dies.
I began with a Lyman Tong Tool 310 back in the early 60's. Loaded .243 rifle with it for ground hog shooting in the dairy country of western NY where I grew up. I upgraded to a Herter's #3 cast iron press that I still use...the press was $13 in 1963! The 310 Tong Tool went along with me to college where I loaded all my 9mm and .38 Spl ammunition sitting at my dorm desk. I've kept the Herters press and the Tong tool and still find use for them from time to time.
Here are some general notes:
First & foremost...get a good manual...While I have a dozen or so manuals dating back to my beginnings, the current Lyman 50th Loading Manual is outstanding as a first buy...it has cast as well as jacketed data and a thorough description of reloading processes...it's the best IMHO.
Electronic scales have been a PITA for me...three of them to date...Frankfort Arsenal, and Cabelas...unreliable...went back to a beam scale I've had since '62...a Redding. Powder measures...I have RCBS Uniflows with both large and small measuring cylinders..small needed for pistol loads...a great measure. Funnel..gotta have it for rifle and some pistol.
Trimmers...no need for pistol but necessary for rifle. Chamfering tool...gotta have it.
Tumbler, not necessary. You can wipe cases off if they drop in the sand. I roll mine around on an old towel lightly sprayed with Dillon case lube..works just fine. You don't need pretty brass to shoot!
Mic or calipers...a must have for both rifle and pistol to set overall length of the completed cartridge. Cheap ones do just fine.
Dies...Lee are OK, RCBS, Dillon, Lyman or Redding are better...get carbide for pistol. Case Lube...Imperial for rifle, any spray on for handgun. Helps even with carbide dies.
Priming tool...Lee's break after a yr or so. A good design, lousy pot metal handles that break. Lyman's are good and my current choice. You can prime on your press generally but doing it by hand is better for feel and precision..
Safety glasses... yep... & while we're talking safety, keep your press clean of powder and especially spent primer dust...it carries lead that you can ingest.
All in all, if starting out again...& if I couldn't spring for a Dillon press, I'd go with a Lyman turret or Hornady and use it as a single stage press til I was thoroughly familiar with the operation. A kit is good and will save you some $ but it is a considerable investment....$500+ if you buy good, lifetime stuff. BTW, a good trouble free press will make if fun. And for extensive handgun loading, get a turret or progressive as you'll be loading a lot of ammunition on it.
I predict that you'll shoot more vs. save some money, but if you buy now, & get started right, and buy a supply of components, you'll be worry-free if the November elections put the gun grabbers and hoarders back in power.
PM me, Doc, if you want further clarification. Rod
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Since you are looking to load for a few types of handguns, I will change my recommendations....
The Hornady LNL AP has cheaper caliber changes and spits out a loaded round with each pull.
You will need:
Case tumbler
Hornady LNL AP
Shellplate
Die set
I prefer to add on a crimp die
Scale and check weights
Caliper
Finished round gauge for checking
5 gal buckets for fired/picked up case storage
The Hornady LNL AP has cheaper caliber changes and spits out a loaded round with each pull.
You will need:
Case tumbler
Hornady LNL AP
Shellplate
Die set
I prefer to add on a crimp die
Scale and check weights
Caliper
Finished round gauge for checking
5 gal buckets for fired/picked up case storage
I disagree with any progressive for a beginner, there is just too much going on at one time. Progressive tools increase the opportunity for error hugely, compared to a single stage press.
learn to walk before getting into a footrace...
Don't put a driver who just passed their road test in the family car and put them in a formula one racer or an 18 wheeler with a split axle transmission...
In other words, learn (and master) the basics before you go advanced...
Marco Califo
New member
I started with a Lyman Turret Expert kit 35+ years and about 10 moves ago. I did replace the turret press with the current model. I still have most of the kit items. Everything works and it will get you going for years. You will occasionally add specialty dies, priming tools, etc. I do think the complete kits are the best way to start from zero.
Later on, you may find certain other things "necessary", or strongly desired. But the kit will get out started.
Redding cost a bit more, but they make very good stuff, and I have their Boss press and scale. I also have and use some Lee items: hand press, dies, Perfect Powder Measure, etc. If you are on a budget Lee stuff does work. Lyman and then Redding are steps up in quality.
Later on, you may find certain other things "necessary", or strongly desired. But the kit will get out started.
Redding cost a bit more, but they make very good stuff, and I have their Boss press and scale. I also have and use some Lee items: hand press, dies, Perfect Powder Measure, etc. If you are on a budget Lee stuff does work. Lyman and then Redding are steps up in quality.
Jim Watson
New member
Just to emphasize, the first piece of reloading equipment to buy is a book, then another.
The ABC's of Reloading is a common recommendation.
The Lyman Reloading Handbook is up to a 50th edition.
You are not reading them for "recipes" you are there to learn what is done and why in the process.
When you start buying equipment, read the instructions.
Lots better than trying to learn how one question at a time on the internet.
The ABC's of Reloading is a common recommendation.
The Lyman Reloading Handbook is up to a 50th edition.
You are not reading them for "recipes" you are there to learn what is done and why in the process.
When you start buying equipment, read the instructions.
Lots better than trying to learn how one question at a time on the internet.
Kempf's has gone up a bit since I bought mine, but it's been a few years. $225 still gets a Lee Classic Turret, Pro Disk for powder (the drum is a $5 upgrade), a primer feeder, and a die set of your chosen caliber. They throw in a few ammo boxes to get you started. You still need a scale, but the Lee scale doesn't get rave reviews anyway.
Yep, buy and read at least a couple of books, and then once it starts to make sense, evaluate the Kempf deal for its value. Personally, I think its hard to beat.
Yep, buy and read at least a couple of books, and then once it starts to make sense, evaluate the Kempf deal for its value. Personally, I think its hard to beat.
jetinteriorguy
New member
If I could only keep one of my presses, it would be the Lee Classic Turret. Put on a set of Lee dies and an auto drum powder measure with the safety prime kit and your good to go. This would be for pistol, not rifle. You could load for rifle but I wouldn’t. For a scale look for an older RCBS 505. If you want to add rifle later just get a good heavy O frame single stage press and the Lee newer Deluxe Perfect Powder measure and a tumbler to clean brass and a trimmer for brass length. I’ve used a fair amount of gear over the years and at least in my personal experience this would give the best bang for the buck. Then collect at least 1,000,000 pieces of brass, 100,000 primers, 500 pounds of powder, and 100,000 bullets and you’re good to go for a year or so.
mikejonestkd
New member
just curious, can you elaborate as to why the LCT is not suitable for rifle reloading?
A good iron press like a Rockchucker, Lyman, Hornady.
Good set of carbide dies, seat and crimp in separate operations on the semi auto ammo, I like RCBS but Lyman is good, Redding are great but cost more.
Good scale, 505 or 1010
Powder funnel
Good powder measure, I've been using a Uniflo for nearly 50 years
loading tray
Dial calipers
A hand priming tool, RCBS or Lee are both good but you need special Lee shell holders for the Lee.
There is some other stuff you will want but this will get you started.
You can get data and instruction off the internet but a good manual is a plus, Lyman sells a great pistol and revolver manual, I use a couple current manuals, Lyman and Hornady. You might choose Sierra or Speer if you use their bullets but get the Lyman first, it lists cast as well as brand name jacketed bullets.
Then all you need is brass, bullets, primers and bullets to get started.
I think RCBS, Lyman and Hornady all sell kits that may save you a few bucks.
My 2 cents..................
Good set of carbide dies, seat and crimp in separate operations on the semi auto ammo, I like RCBS but Lyman is good, Redding are great but cost more.
Good scale, 505 or 1010
Powder funnel
Good powder measure, I've been using a Uniflo for nearly 50 years
loading tray
Dial calipers
A hand priming tool, RCBS or Lee are both good but you need special Lee shell holders for the Lee.
There is some other stuff you will want but this will get you started.
You can get data and instruction off the internet but a good manual is a plus, Lyman sells a great pistol and revolver manual, I use a couple current manuals, Lyman and Hornady. You might choose Sierra or Speer if you use their bullets but get the Lyman first, it lists cast as well as brand name jacketed bullets.
Then all you need is brass, bullets, primers and bullets to get started.
I think RCBS, Lyman and Hornady all sell kits that may save you a few bucks.
My 2 cents..................
Marco Califo
New member
That is why the kits are good. You don't need a long list of things or need to compare brands. The Redding Boss kit is $331 at MidsouthshootersSupply.com but is out of stock. My Lyman turret kit cost more than that 35+ years ago.
I bought a Lee Challenger kit about 25 years ago. Figured it would be fine for just getting started. I'm still using it to this day. The only thing I've done to it was change the aluminum toggle lever to the upgraded steel one. The aluminum one cracked at about year 20. I enjoy reloading, so the slow speed of a single stage doesn't bother me. Plus I reload for accuracy, not quantity, so slow is fine. Accurate rounds can be made on a Lee.
Doc Holliday 1950
New member
The info from the Forum is a good stating point for my project.
I have;
1-G19 gen 4
1-G 43x
1-King Cobra NIB 3" 357 mag 6 shoot.Won it during a lottery tournament.
1- 1978 PHYTHON 4" blued & this is a shooters dream
1- 2' EAA 6 chambered snub firing 6 shots.
I have;
1-G19 gen 4
1-G 43x
1-King Cobra NIB 3" 357 mag 6 shoot.Won it during a lottery tournament.
1- 1978 PHYTHON 4" blued & this is a shooters dream
1- 2' EAA 6 chambered snub firing 6 shots.
So, 9mm and .38SPL /.357 Magnum...
you've been saving your brass (and the boxes the ammo came it) right??
What kind of quantity do you have, or are looking at having??
A few boxes of each? a few dozen boxes??
Bullets are sold by the hundred (or larger packages)
Powder by the pound (or larger)
Primers used to be sold by the hundred at retail, commonly sold was the 1,000 carton.
with many powders 9mm/38spl loads are 4-6gr of powder, full magnum .357 double to triple that (with a different powder)
A pound in 7000 grains, so a pound will load 1400 5gr 9mm charges (if you don't spill any
) A different powder for heavy 357 loads using 15gr will load 466 rounds, according to my calculator.
Another thing to consider is what bullets you plan to use, lead, plated, or jacketed.
Whatever dies you wind up getting, you're better off getting carbide dies. The are steel but the sizer die has a carbide insert which means you don't have to lubricate the brass before resizing. Also be aware that the shellholder usually doesn't come in the die set.
A very good book, though somewhat dated now, is the ABC's of Reloading. It has lots of tips, tricks, and instructions not found in the "how to" section of reloading manuals.
you've been saving your brass (and the boxes the ammo came it) right??
What kind of quantity do you have, or are looking at having??
A few boxes of each? a few dozen boxes??
Bullets are sold by the hundred (or larger packages)
Powder by the pound (or larger)
Primers used to be sold by the hundred at retail, commonly sold was the 1,000 carton.
with many powders 9mm/38spl loads are 4-6gr of powder, full magnum .357 double to triple that (with a different powder)
A pound in 7000 grains, so a pound will load 1400 5gr 9mm charges (if you don't spill any
) A different powder for heavy 357 loads using 15gr will load 466 rounds, according to my calculator.Another thing to consider is what bullets you plan to use, lead, plated, or jacketed.
Whatever dies you wind up getting, you're better off getting carbide dies. The are steel but the sizer die has a carbide insert which means you don't have to lubricate the brass before resizing. Also be aware that the shellholder usually doesn't come in the die set.
A very good book, though somewhat dated now, is the ABC's of Reloading. It has lots of tips, tricks, and instructions not found in the "how to" section of reloading manuals.
TruthTellers
New member
OP was looking for factory ammo to shoot in his .327 in another thread, but I pretty much told him that the best ammo for his .32 revolvers it that which he can make on his own. Outside of weak .32 S&W Long and way overpowered Federal .327, there's nothing affordable for someone to shoot a lot of.
There is some "cheap" .32 S&W Long ammo, but it's generally super weak wadcutter stuff or PPU that the OP doesn't like and even then, $15 for ammo that you otherwise could make yourself for $5 is a no brainer. Pretty much the same for .38/.357, but at least with that caliber you get a lot of factory options.
9mm is pointless to reload unless it's the only caliber you shoot and you happen to shoot thousands of rounds a year. I don't want to hear about how it's therapeutic, you could easily get that therapy reloading a different caliber that's much more sensible in regards to cost savings and that gives you a wider variety of ammo options.
Anyway, since the OP is mostly focused on .32, I recommended to him to look at the new Lee APP press because I've found that .32 revolver reloading is not something meant for a progressive or even the Lee Turret. To get the bullets to seat straight, you need the Lyman M die and unless there's a special powder thru Lyman M die, you cannot charge the case with powder when using that die.
As such, the Lee APP is a good option because it can resize and mouth flare at a blazing fast speed, then the bullet seating and crimping could be done on a $40 Lee "C" frame press.
Yes, it's two presses, but at this point in my hobby where I have the LCT and Lee hand press, I'm desperate to get more presses and IDK what I would do if I was stuck with just one press.
The LCT is a fine press, but I don't think it's the right way to go for the OP, I really think he should start with a single stage, but to get a single stage that can be run fast for the operations that don't require a lot of precision and checking (resize, flare) and a different single stage that is cheap and small to do the seating and crimping.
Lee carbide dies are fine, but I don't much like their mouth flaring dies, but you can learn to live with them. Not saying they're junk, I've had plenty of success with them, but they could be better. Also, if you buy the Lee dies in a set, they come with the shell holder.
There is some "cheap" .32 S&W Long ammo, but it's generally super weak wadcutter stuff or PPU that the OP doesn't like and even then, $15 for ammo that you otherwise could make yourself for $5 is a no brainer. Pretty much the same for .38/.357, but at least with that caliber you get a lot of factory options.
9mm is pointless to reload unless it's the only caliber you shoot and you happen to shoot thousands of rounds a year. I don't want to hear about how it's therapeutic, you could easily get that therapy reloading a different caliber that's much more sensible in regards to cost savings and that gives you a wider variety of ammo options.
Anyway, since the OP is mostly focused on .32, I recommended to him to look at the new Lee APP press because I've found that .32 revolver reloading is not something meant for a progressive or even the Lee Turret. To get the bullets to seat straight, you need the Lyman M die and unless there's a special powder thru Lyman M die, you cannot charge the case with powder when using that die.
As such, the Lee APP is a good option because it can resize and mouth flare at a blazing fast speed, then the bullet seating and crimping could be done on a $40 Lee "C" frame press.
Yes, it's two presses, but at this point in my hobby where I have the LCT and Lee hand press, I'm desperate to get more presses and IDK what I would do if I was stuck with just one press.
The LCT is a fine press, but I don't think it's the right way to go for the OP, I really think he should start with a single stage, but to get a single stage that can be run fast for the operations that don't require a lot of precision and checking (resize, flare) and a different single stage that is cheap and small to do the seating and crimping.
Lee carbide dies are fine, but I don't much like their mouth flaring dies, but you can learn to live with them. Not saying they're junk, I've had plenty of success with them, but they could be better. Also, if you buy the Lee dies in a set, they come with the shell holder.
I would stay away from the small Lee C press and the Lee APP press. Both are rather small for resizing with carbide dies unless you also use lube, especially the APP if using the X-Press shellholders that make automatic case feeding possible. The APP is nice for de-priming and belling, but I consider it too small for resizing anything without lube, and even then only smaller cases.