Doc Holliday 1950
New member
I've never made my own ammo. Any suggestions of the easiest set of tools would I need to roll my own? I've asked this before but I'm under new circumstances & I'd like to try this.
want to buy a starter set
- Thread starter Doc Holliday 1950
- Start date
kilotanker22
New member
You can get started pretty cheap with ok equipment. The Lee deluxe Challenger kit has pretty much everything you need besides a set of dies and individual components. The kit is like $200. The priming tool it Comes with is one of the best IMO. Now these tools are serviceable, but not what I would call "nice" or even great tools. They do the job though and do it well enough.
You can piece together a really good set for like $600, or buy a really nice kit like the Lyman Ultimate Reloading system for about the same money.
Don't read too far into the minutia. You don't need high end tools to turn out "High End" ammunition.
You can piece together a really good set for like $600, or buy a really nice kit like the Lyman Ultimate Reloading system for about the same money.
Don't read too far into the minutia. You don't need high end tools to turn out "High End" ammunition.
Aguila Blanca
Staff
The Lee Deluxe Challenger kit is a good starter kit -- but it's a single stage press. From a learning perspective, that's a good thing. However, if you shoot much handgun, reloading quantities of plinking ammo on a single stage press is (IMHO) a non-starter. I say that as one who, in fact, initially bought a predecessor of that same Lee kit when I set out to begin loading my own ammunition.
I VERY quickly found that I didn't have enough free time in a week to load enough ammo for practice and one competition per week. I didn't want to spend what a Dillon or Hornady progressive cost, nor did I think I was ready for a progressive press, so I bought another Lee kit -- this one based on their Turret Press. The nice thing about Lee's turret presses (they now have two versions, which they didn't when I bought mine) is the "auto index" feature. This makes the press operate sort of like a "semi progressive" -- you pull the handle for one operation and, when you return the handle to the rest position the press automatically rotates the turret and positions the next die in position for the next operation. For handgun, I use all four stations:
Here's a kit based on the smaller Turret press (too short to handle .50 BMG!). The kit includes a scale and a powder measure. Add a set of dies and you're ready to roll.
https://www.natchezss.com/lee-4-hole-turret-press-kit-with-auto-drum-powder-measure.html
Since I bought my presses, Lee has introduced a new progressive press that I initially had reservations about, but which seems to be getting good reviews. It's not available as a kit (as far as I know), but it's a dynamite price for a progressive press, and you can add whatever scale and powder measure you want.
https://www.natchezss.com/lee-auto-breech-lock-pro-progressive-press.html
I VERY quickly found that I didn't have enough free time in a week to load enough ammo for practice and one competition per week. I didn't want to spend what a Dillon or Hornady progressive cost, nor did I think I was ready for a progressive press, so I bought another Lee kit -- this one based on their Turret Press. The nice thing about Lee's turret presses (they now have two versions, which they didn't when I bought mine) is the "auto index" feature. This makes the press operate sort of like a "semi progressive" -- you pull the handle for one operation and, when you return the handle to the rest position the press automatically rotates the turret and positions the next die in position for the next operation. For handgun, I use all four stations:
- Resize
- Flare / powder drop
- Bullet seat
- Crimp
Here's a kit based on the smaller Turret press (too short to handle .50 BMG!). The kit includes a scale and a powder measure. Add a set of dies and you're ready to roll.
https://www.natchezss.com/lee-4-hole-turret-press-kit-with-auto-drum-powder-measure.html
Since I bought my presses, Lee has introduced a new progressive press that I initially had reservations about, but which seems to be getting good reviews. It's not available as a kit (as far as I know), but it's a dynamite price for a progressive press, and you can add whatever scale and powder measure you want.
https://www.natchezss.com/lee-auto-breech-lock-pro-progressive-press.html
I bought my RCBS single stage in 1984 and it still works as good as the day I bought it. Can't recommend it enough. In 2015, I finally moved to a progressive (Dillon 550); but the ol' single-stage is still in commission and does get occasional use.
I also got a kit at that time ('84). I used most of it - some items more than others. It too was RCBS and it included a Uniflow powder dispenser and a "5-0-5" scale.
The scale got tired and I replaced it a few years ago.
The powder hopper is still going strong (used it today).
The kit came with a case trimmer which I hardly ever used; but use now more than ever (I've since learned that 357 and 44 Magnum needs case trimming if you actually want to load consistent ammo).
A powder trickler was included too; and it's useful when you're doing load work ups and need to trickle the powder to the exact charge weight. Still have it. Still use it.
The kit came with cheezy plastic calipers, accurate to .01". Not accurate enough. But when I started, I was only loading for revolvers; and usually, there's no need for calipers when loading revolver ammo. I did buy some "real" calipers accurate to .001".
It came with a loading block that I never liked. Now days, I use Sinclair blocks and they're awesome.
I don't recall if the kit came with anything else - it has been 35 years. Anyway, the kit was good for me. I don't know what kits are out there now.
I also got a kit at that time ('84). I used most of it - some items more than others. It too was RCBS and it included a Uniflow powder dispenser and a "5-0-5" scale.
The scale got tired and I replaced it a few years ago.
The powder hopper is still going strong (used it today).
The kit came with a case trimmer which I hardly ever used; but use now more than ever (I've since learned that 357 and 44 Magnum needs case trimming if you actually want to load consistent ammo).
A powder trickler was included too; and it's useful when you're doing load work ups and need to trickle the powder to the exact charge weight. Still have it. Still use it.
The kit came with cheezy plastic calipers, accurate to .01". Not accurate enough. But when I started, I was only loading for revolvers; and usually, there's no need for calipers when loading revolver ammo. I did buy some "real" calipers accurate to .001".
It came with a loading block that I never liked. Now days, I use Sinclair blocks and they're awesome.
I don't recall if the kit came with anything else - it has been 35 years. Anyway, the kit was good for me. I don't know what kits are out there now.
I would start with the Hornady single stage kit.
More important than your kit would be getting off on the right foot with the right workbench. Get something just a couple inches higher than normal. Reloading is light work so having the workpiece higher is better.
Think about your process. The process and your efficiency will drive your tool choices.
Also, dont forget the extras. Those are what kill you cost wise. Things like:
Case tumbler...no reason to go wet.
Decent calipers
Case trimmer for rifle and maybe revolver
Decent priming tool for rifle...I like K&M.
Case prep center.....I prefer Lyman
So what will you load first?
More important than your kit would be getting off on the right foot with the right workbench. Get something just a couple inches higher than normal. Reloading is light work so having the workpiece higher is better.
Think about your process. The process and your efficiency will drive your tool choices.
Also, dont forget the extras. Those are what kill you cost wise. Things like:
Case tumbler...no reason to go wet.
Decent calipers
Case trimmer for rifle and maybe revolver
Decent priming tool for rifle...I like K&M.
Case prep center.....I prefer Lyman
So what will you load first?
Woody'sDad
New member
I am closer to Nick CS--like him I started early with rudimentary reloading tools-Lee "pound 'em in" to be exact - somewhere around early to mid-60's when I was a teenager. Graduated to an RCBS RockChucker in the 70's and it is still bulletproof (pun intended) then to progressives-both Hornady and Dillon.
My advice is to start with a single stage and yes a turret is still a single stage- get the basics down-get manuals - DO NOT RELY SOLEY ON THE INTERNET. Read, re-read the manuals.
what started as a very inexpensive hobby can and will take you down the rabbit hole--I will not even contemplate the cost of reloading and all the toys, electronics and various and sundry accoutrements that I have amassed over 50 years - and I love it.
Save money? Hardly! Shoot more? Absolutely and probably with greater accuracy and enjoyment.
As a retired curmudgeon there is nothing better than heading down to the barn with my reloading room/man cave and puttering with the reloading stuff.
Enjoy and embrace the hobby and just be mindful of what you are doing. Accuracy trumps speed. Safety trumps everything.
Gary
My advice is to start with a single stage and yes a turret is still a single stage- get the basics down-get manuals - DO NOT RELY SOLEY ON THE INTERNET. Read, re-read the manuals.
what started as a very inexpensive hobby can and will take you down the rabbit hole--I will not even contemplate the cost of reloading and all the toys, electronics and various and sundry accoutrements that I have amassed over 50 years - and I love it.
Save money? Hardly! Shoot more? Absolutely and probably with greater accuracy and enjoyment.
As a retired curmudgeon there is nothing better than heading down to the barn with my reloading room/man cave and puttering with the reloading stuff.
Enjoy and embrace the hobby and just be mindful of what you are doing. Accuracy trumps speed. Safety trumps everything.
Gary
mikejonestkd
New member
Take a good look at the Lee Classic Turret press. You can run it as a single stage while you learn the ropes, then eventually speed things up by inserting the OP rod.
I started with a rock chucker, and it was great to learn on, but my Lee classic turret is so much more versatile. If I had to do it all again I would have started with the Lee.
I regularly crank out 150 pistol rounds an hour, and can get close to 200 per hour if I am in the groove. That is more than enough for me for a range trip.
I started with a rock chucker, and it was great to learn on, but my Lee classic turret is so much more versatile. If I had to do it all again I would have started with the Lee.
I regularly crank out 150 pistol rounds an hour, and can get close to 200 per hour if I am in the groove. That is more than enough for me for a range trip.
Last edited:
I’d start with either the Beginners Guide to Reloading or a Lyman manual. The Beginners Guide goes over all the basics and try’s to help guide a person who’s determining what to buy. Any reloading manual will have a section covering the basics of reloading but the Beginners Guide assumes you are starting at square 1.
Once you start reading what all is involved in the reloading process it will help you make more informed decisions on what to purchase.
I just read one of your other posts where you mention shooting 100 to 150 rounds per week. At this level of shooting a progressive press will pay for its self quickly. You’ll easily spend 2 hours loading 150 rounds on a single stage press. That’s not a big deal for some but most people don’t have an extra 2 hours every week to spend on making ammo. Additionally once you start reloading and a box of ammo can be made $6 instead of $15 you’ll probably start shooting more.
Once you start reading what all is involved in the reloading process it will help you make more informed decisions on what to purchase.
I just read one of your other posts where you mention shooting 100 to 150 rounds per week. At this level of shooting a progressive press will pay for its self quickly. You’ll easily spend 2 hours loading 150 rounds on a single stage press. That’s not a big deal for some but most people don’t have an extra 2 hours every week to spend on making ammo. Additionally once you start reloading and a box of ammo can be made $6 instead of $15 you’ll probably start shooting more.
Doc Holliday 1950
New member
Actually I shoot my 2 glocks the 19 & 43x & My 2 revolvers are the 327 sp101
& the 3" King Cobra.(hit a lottery ticket for this).
So I'm looking to reload both Semis & Revolvers. Does this help & do I need different press kits? I know zippo about this & am reading everyone's replies then looking them up.
& the 3" King Cobra.(hit a lottery ticket for this).
So I'm looking to reload both Semis & Revolvers. Does this help & do I need different press kits? I know zippo about this & am reading everyone's replies then looking them up.
mikejonestkd
New member
Doc, The Lee turret press is right up your alley, you can buy new turrets and keep die sets in them. You can then switch from one caliber to another in about a minute...
https://leeprecision.com/4-hole-classic-turret-press.html
there is a video at the bottom of the page
https://leeprecision.com/4-hole-classic-turret-press.html
there is a video at the bottom of the page
Average Joe
New member
Lee would be my first choice, Reasonable and reliable equipment, makes reloads just as good as the others..but at half the cost.
What's your budget?
Buy a copy of The ABC's of Reloading and read the whole thing. About $30 on Amazon or in your local gun shop.
And don't forget there's a great deal of knowledge here too. Do not hesitate to ask any question you may have on these forums.
Lee kit is less expensive and their warrantee is not as good as RCBS'.
RCBS has the best warrantee(they'll fix any issues you may have, even on used kit or if you cause it forever. With an E-mail or phone call.) but costs more. I'm of the opinion that the RCBS warrantee is worth the extra money. No questions asked. They just send you what you need. Did that before there was an internet by mail. And I just asked 'em where I could get decapping pins. Got a package of 5 of 'em and a list of local retailers in about a month.
All the beginner's kits come with a manual, but by a Lyman manual too. It's more versatile than any bullet or powder maker's book that comes with the kits.
Lee tests nothing themselves. Any data they publish usually comes from the powder makers like Hodgdon. That doesn't mean the data is not safe to use. It's just not theirs.
"...both Semis & Revolvers..." Same kit. Slightly different die set. The crimp die for say a .45 is tapered while a .357 is a roll crimp. No roll crimp for any pistol cartridge that head spaces on the case mouth. Isn't as complicated as it sounds.
You will have to work up a load for each firearm though.
Buy a copy of The ABC's of Reloading and read the whole thing. About $30 on Amazon or in your local gun shop.
And don't forget there's a great deal of knowledge here too. Do not hesitate to ask any question you may have on these forums.
Lee kit is less expensive and their warrantee is not as good as RCBS'.
RCBS has the best warrantee(they'll fix any issues you may have, even on used kit or if you cause it forever. With an E-mail or phone call.) but costs more. I'm of the opinion that the RCBS warrantee is worth the extra money. No questions asked. They just send you what you need. Did that before there was an internet by mail. And I just asked 'em where I could get decapping pins. Got a package of 5 of 'em and a list of local retailers in about a month.
All the beginner's kits come with a manual, but by a Lyman manual too. It's more versatile than any bullet or powder maker's book that comes with the kits.
Lee tests nothing themselves. Any data they publish usually comes from the powder makers like Hodgdon. That doesn't mean the data is not safe to use. It's just not theirs.
"...both Semis & Revolvers..." Same kit. Slightly different die set. The crimp die for say a .45 is tapered while a .357 is a roll crimp. No roll crimp for any pistol cartridge that head spaces on the case mouth. Isn't as complicated as it sounds.
You will have to work up a load for each firearm though.
wondering121
New member
I'm fairly new to reloading, but I would second the recommendations to buy and read the ABCs of Reloading and the Lyman reloading manual. This would help inform your equipment choices as well. ABCs is a great resource that really taught me how different aspects of loading affects the results and gave me much better insight into picking out recipes. It also gave me a whole new respect for handling primers safely.
I've had good luck with my RCBS single stage kit which has most of what you will need. One thing I would also recommend outside of what others have already said here is to fit whatever press you get with Hornady lock n load die bushings. With these you can set the dies once and quick change them out without having to reset the depth each time. Great time savers for swapping calibers on a single stage press.
Good luck and enjoy handloading.
Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk
I've had good luck with my RCBS single stage kit which has most of what you will need. One thing I would also recommend outside of what others have already said here is to fit whatever press you get with Hornady lock n load die bushings. With these you can set the dies once and quick change them out without having to reset the depth each time. Great time savers for swapping calibers on a single stage press.
Good luck and enjoy handloading.
Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk
Aguila Blanca
Staff
Thanks for the reminder -- I neglected to mention that. I mentioned the auto indexing feature, which advances the turret to the next station with each pull of the handle. What I didn't mention is that, as mikejonestkd pointed out, you can simply remove the rod and run the press like a single stage (or non-auto-indexing turret) press.mikejonestkd said:
The difference is in sequence of your operations. With a single stage press or a conventional turret press, you perform each operation in batches -- decap and resize 50 or 100 cases, then flare 50 or 100 cases, then charge 50 or 100 cases, then seat bullets in 50 or 100 cases, and then crimp 50 or 100 cases.
With the Lee Turret Press in auto-index mode, I have a powder measure set up on the flaring die. So, for each round, the sequence is: pull once to resize (I decap and prime off the press); second pull for flare and powder charge; third pull seats the bullet; fourth pull crimps. That leaves the turret in position for starting over and resizing the next case.
You need a set of dies for each caliber/cartridge you'll be loading. You don't need a different press -- just change the dies. In single stage and turret presses, you screw the dies in and out. The Lee Turret press (and their progressive presses) have turrets that hold all the dies in a set, so you can just swap out the complete turret and not have to adjust dies when you switch calibers. Dillon presses (except the Square D) have a similar setup -- Dillon refers to it as swapping the "toolhead."Doc Holliday said:
As T O'Heir noted, revolver cartridges get a roll crimp (the case mouth is slightly rolled into the cannelure or crimping groove in the bullet), and semi-auto cases get a taper crimp. The dies for each cartridge should include the correct type of crimping die. Figure on buying a set of dies for each cartridge you'll be loading. For example, I can't use my .45 ACP dies to load .45 Colt, and I can't use the .45 Colt dies for .45 ACP. Of everything I have, I think the only die set that does double duty is .38 Special/.357 Magnum. (Probably .44 Special and .44 magnum would also double up, but I don't load for those.)
Here's a link to a video explaining the Lee Turret Press: http://loadmastervideos.com/Lee_Turret_001.wmv
Exactly--even the least expensive reloading gear will turn out ammo that is FAR superior to anything you can buy.
Tim
There is a good description of necessary equipment for the beginning reloader in the sticky area at the top of this subforum. In addition to the items listed there I would also recommend a case de-burring tool and a primer pocket cleaner. The various reloading kits contain most of the necessary items, but typically leave a few out for some reason.
I started with RCBS equipment that has proven to be very functional and durable. I've since acquired equipment from other manufacturers as well. IME, the lower cost equipment is usable but prone to wear and breakage.
I started with RCBS equipment that has proven to be very functional and durable. I've since acquired equipment from other manufacturers as well. IME, the lower cost equipment is usable but prone to wear and breakage.
I'm not a big fan of Lee dies and tools, other than a couple of their hand tools. Simply put, they work, and are less expensive, but the features that make them less expensive don't appeal to me.
And, while they are cheaper, and do work, this means that you are less likely to get "better" tools later on.
I began reloading in the early 70s, with Lyman tools, and moved to mostly RCBS in the 80s as a change of residence meant RCBS was the more common brand on the shelves. I currently an set up to load for over 30 different rifle and pistol rounds ranging from .22 Hornet to .458 Win Mag and .32acp to .45 Win Mag. If there's a mistake possible (short of blowing up a gun - and I came damn close, ONCE) I've probably made it.
Learned a few things along the way, too. First step, don't buy a kit or any tools, buy a BOOK. Or 3... Lyman has been in the reloading tool business almost as long as there have been cases to reload. Also, don't be thinking you'll save any money. About none of us ever do. What we get is more ammo for what we spend, and the ability to customize it to our guns.
9mm is a horrible round to reload for, ECONOMICALLY. The huge volume of 9mm production means its price is as low as it gets and its tough to load 9mm any cheaper than you can buy it. With other calibers, the cost per reloaded round is significantly less than factory new.
Get some books, do some reading, learn the terms and then come back and ask questions about what you've learned. Happy to help. There was no internet when I started, and no one around to help, either. Learned from books, magazines, and serious trial and error.
Happy to help you avoid some of the mistakes I've made. You'll make plenty of your own.
Do consider that reloading tools can be damaged, but rarely ever wear out so most of them are a one time purchase, and saving a few bucks may not be as important as getting the features you want.
And, beware of information overload!
And, while they are cheaper, and do work, this means that you are less likely to get "better" tools later on.
I began reloading in the early 70s, with Lyman tools, and moved to mostly RCBS in the 80s as a change of residence meant RCBS was the more common brand on the shelves. I currently an set up to load for over 30 different rifle and pistol rounds ranging from .22 Hornet to .458 Win Mag and .32acp to .45 Win Mag. If there's a mistake possible (short of blowing up a gun - and I came damn close, ONCE) I've probably made it.
Learned a few things along the way, too. First step, don't buy a kit or any tools, buy a BOOK. Or 3... Lyman has been in the reloading tool business almost as long as there have been cases to reload. Also, don't be thinking you'll save any money.
About none of us ever do. What we get is more ammo for what we spend, and the ability to customize it to our guns.9mm is a horrible round to reload for, ECONOMICALLY. The huge volume of 9mm production means its price is as low as it gets and its tough to load 9mm any cheaper than you can buy it. With other calibers, the cost per reloaded round is significantly less than factory new.
Get some books, do some reading, learn the terms and then come back and ask questions about what you've learned. Happy to help. There was no internet when I started, and no one around to help, either. Learned from books, magazines, and serious trial and error.
Happy to help you avoid some of the mistakes I've made. You'll make plenty of your own.
Do consider that reloading tools can be damaged, but rarely ever wear out so most of them are a one time purchase, and saving a few bucks may not be as important as getting the features you want.
And, beware of information overload!
Schlitz 45
New member
I started reloading 45Colt on a shoestring budget using a $45 Lee hand loader, a set of used dies, & a Lyman bullet mold. Still use it for small batches (50 or less). Taught me the basics, kept me shooting, & showed me reloading was something I really enjoy doing.