Stripping Down An 1858

[MPP1423]

Ok Mike,im Sure You'll Jump In On This One And I Hope You Do.i Am Not A Gunsmith By Any Means But I Have That Book Now You Told Me About And Im Ready To Give It A Try.what Are The Steps To Take Down The 1858 Without Parts Flying Across The Room?lol.mainly The Trigger ,hammmer,hand,well All Thats Inside?lol.i Went Tonight And Bought Me A Dremel Tool,cool!i Did The Task On The Cylinders And The Pins.if I Could Just Get Those Damn Nipples Out!!!!! Im Just Going To Shoot Them (CYLINDERS)Till They Wont Anymore And Go Buy New Ones And Be Done With It.if These Were Mine To Begin With I Wouldnt Have This Problem Cause Every Other Shooting Session I Take Them Out For A Real Good Cleaning.

Mike,in One Of Your Post You Gave Someone An Idea About Putting Something On Top Of The Ball To Shoot Thru The Barrel To Smooth It Up?i Dont Remember Where That Was.what Was It And Were Do I Get It?

 

[Remington kid]

Kevin, ... You are going to make me type all this before Im awake?
(1) Place hammer on half cock.
(2)Take cylinder out of gun and remove the nipples.
(3) Take off grips.
(4) Remove screw holding in ram rod and cylinder pin.
(5) Remove trigger spring adjusting screw at bottom inside grip frame.
(6) Lower hammer.
(7) Useing a piece of wood and small hammer tap trigger spring out of it's notch at the bottom of the grip frame.
(8) Remove trigger guard screw and trigger guard.
(9) Remove spring screw.
(10) Remove trigger screw.
(11) Remove cylinder hand.
(12) Slide hammer downward until you can see the little screw that holds the paw to the trigger and remove the screw, Very small screw.
(13) Slide hammer and paw out the bottom of the frame.
I don't have the book in front of ,me and I may have some of the names wrong but it wont change the way it comes apart. I can do mine with my eyes closed .lol. Many cleaning times.
One thing I would like to mention here that seems to be a problem for some is the removel and replacing of the cylinder. Place the gun on half cock and make sure the cylinder pin and the rammer are out of the way.As you hold the gun so that the barrel is pointing to your left and reach under the frame with your left hand and grab the cylinder with your fingers on the opposit side and your thumb on your side of the cylinder . Rotate the cylinder as you remove it "Clockwise" (Rotate it towards you) and it will come right out. Counter clockwise (Rotate away from you) as you replace it. Hope I got that right

The barrel smoothing your asking about should only be done if the barrel is really rough or has burs. Just load as you normally would with a light load. Instead of grease over the ball place a small amount of valve lapping compound you can get at the local auto parts store . I would not do more that two chambers this way. If you still have burs then I would take it to your local gun smith.
As for the nipple you don't have to remove them to clean all the time. I remove mine two or three times a year and I shoot all the time. Just buy some licquid lock ease or licquid grafite is my favorite. Place a dap on the threads before you install the nipple and they will remove very easy every time. Mike

 

[MPP1423]

thanks mike.where i needed help was from #9 on.lol.i've just never been inside ,i always just tried to clean from the top.by the way,im upset with my ruger!it shoots great and damn on target at 30 yrds off hand but it takes 2 snaps on the caps to get them to go off.they seem to seat good and they dont fall off while shooting but is there something i can do to releive this problem.hell,if im hunting boar i want it to go off the 1st time.lol.

 

[Low Key]

Your hammer may not be hitting the caps flat, if the hammer hits a cap at very much of an angle they won't fire. Put a little grease on the face of the hammer that hits the cap and EASE it down on to the cap then look at the cap and see if the whole top has grease on it or just a partial circle. If it's a partial circle then the hammer is not striking flat against the cap. If it isn't I don't quite know how you would fix that, but mike probably does.

 

[MPP1423]

thanks low key,ill have to check that out.it right on target though when it goes off.lol.

 

[MPP1423]

hey mike,i have my one of my 58's stripped down ,i sure hope i can get it back together.lol.i may need new parts like the trigger and the hand.they look really rough where they engage each other.should i try to smooth these burrs out or just get new ones?the part of the trigger that meets the hammer has one hell of a burr on the side,its like a needle.

 

[MPP1423]

nice trick low key.the grease did show that the hammer is hitting more to the top of the nipple and not flush on the entire surface.but i dont know how to fix it.

 

[Remington kid]

Kevin, Before you change anything try this. Seat a few caps on the cylinder without loading it and shove the caps on the nipple tightly with a piece of doll rod. Then shoot a few caps and see if they go off.
Sometimes new nipples have a little shooulder on the edge that you can't see from the machining. If the cap goes off after you shove it on then you want to place each nipple in a drill chuck and useing a basterd file just lightly touch it to the top edge of the nipple as the drill turns it. Or you can just keep seating the caps to asure a nice tight fit.

 

[MPP1423]

thanks mike.i'll try that.man,i have this gun(my 58) in pieces.lol.i have polished all part ever so slightly and im ready to put it back together.if i have messed something up im not too worried.there is a place i learned about on here to get 58 parts and they have the spare guts,all i'd need including hand,trigger,and bolt for less than 30 bucks so this will be a learning job.lol.ok,lol,how do i get this back together?

 

[MPP1423]

ok mike,beleive it or not i got it all back together and it works.lol.but sometimes when i cock the hammer the cylinder wont rotate but it was doing this before i worked on it,lol.whats causing this?this is my oldest 58 and at 1/2 cock it was very loose spinning the cylinder if you know what i mean,it didnt have that crisp clicking sound when rotated.but the trigger is a lot smoother.im learning.lol

 

[Remington kid]

Take the cyliner back out and let the hammer all the way down. Turn the gun upside down and facing away from you. Remove the trigger guard and losen the screw that hold's the spring down . Move the trigger away from you towards the barrel so that it's straight and then holding it there tighten the spring screw down and then place the trigger at half cock and replace the cylinder again and see how it acts before you replace the trigger guard.
If that didn't help then you need to remove the grips, trigger spring screw, spring screw, spring , trigger screw, hand , trigger and paw. Look at the paw and make sure that the little tin looking spring is out about a 1/4" and not bent in towards the paw.That little spring it what makes your gun go Click, click, click as you cock it and as you spin the cylinder. It engages the star holes in the back of the cylinder. Now put it all back togeather and see what happens.
If you call cabelas and ask to talk to someone about a problem your having with your Cabelas Remington you be able to talk to a guy you is really good on these gun's. If he's still there. They also sell a complete repair kit for that gun for about $20.00 and that includes a new hammer and on most sites they sell for about $30.00 alone. The kit will give you everything you need to repair your gun or at least all the guts. They don't advertise this but they have it.

 

[MPP1423]

10-4.thanks again,i'll give that a try.

 

[mec]

You've found an excellent advisor there. I've found the remington springs are under quite a bit of tension -with or without the screw engaged. to put it back in, I insert the spring into the hammer then put a dowell or cartridge case between the spring and the front of the frame. That way, I can push down on the bottom of the spring, flex it over the dowell/etc until it comes even with the slot and then push it right in.

Unlike the colt types, the remington uses one screw to retain the bolt and trigger. It helps to push a pin through the off side to get the parts aligned before wiggling the screw through them.

 

[MPP1423]

that worked mike.i guess it got stuck by the fouling the 1st time.

mec,your right about mike,he's the man!i have owned and shot these 58's for 12 yrs now but i was to afraid to tear it down inside but mike has shown me the way and after you do it it's not that hard.i'll take my other two down now and give them a little tlc.lol.

mike,i did have another thing happen.lol.the link pin for the loading lever came out on this one.this is my oldest gun so it needs a little work.1/2 is already done.i love the old worn look though and it shoots like a dream still and on target at 30 yrds.i'll get some pic's of them as soon as i can.how do you install another pin,meaning how do you make the pin stay in,im sure you flaten it on both side but how?

 

[Remington kid]

Kevin, I never had a pin fall out before If It's long enough then I would just lay it on a solid piece of steel like a vice or anvil so that the pin is touching something solid on the back side. Git a good nail set that will fit over the pin and hit it lightly with a hammer.It wont take much to flatten the pin a little so it wont fall out. Then do the other side the same way.Don't do it to hard or you'll crush the lever and that's not good. Just go easy.
If you need a bigger pin then I would buy one from a Remington parts site. It has to be case hardened to stand the loading abuse we give them
Thanks for the compliment guy's but Im just trying to pass on what I have learned from others over the years. Lot's of little tricks to getting these guns running like a fine tuned clock but it can be done and to me it's fun...Not work. My wife say's when Im messing with my guns or Longbows my eyes light up,Lol. Mike

 

[mec]

I cant add much to that information about the pins but Bates tells me he has fixed a number of them on replicas and original remingtons.

he probably tooled down some nails and I do recall him saying they were something of a beast to do

 

[MPP1423]

Well,this Is The Only One That Is Bad.the Other 2 Rem's I Have Are Fine But This One Im Working On Is Really Old And The Serial# Is Too Compared To My Others.but You Know,i Just Love That Old Look It Has And It Shoots Great,just Needs A Little Tlc.

 

[Remington kid]

Kevin, Right behind the barrel on the upper frame you will see some letters in a small box. Tell me what the letters are and I'll tell you how old your Remington is. Mike

 

[MPP1423]

Well,on The Lower Part Of The Frame Under The Cylinder Is The Letters "bd" In A Box.now Thats On The One That Im Working On,the Other Is Where You Said It Is And They Are "bh".and My Stainless Is Where The 1st One Was On The Frame And It Is "bf".

 

[MPP1423]

ok guys,im going to try to posts some pic's.we'll see if it works.


well,it wont let me mike.it states unable to copy/move.