OK. I admit it. I'm sick. Something is wrong with me 
.
I want to be able to empty and reload an SA wheelgun as fast as most people can do so with a conventional DA.
To do it, I have to get the empties out FAST, which means some sort of "pressure eject" system.
My first thought was to use the power of a CO2 cartridge "spraying" empties out as I push an air release button and spin the cylinder. Pieces from a bicycle emergency air inflator system looked promising.
Nope. Won't work. They won't hold the air long enough once a threaded CO2 cartridge is punctured. The cannister would go flat in the holster in short order...and we're not even talking hours, we're talking minutes.
Dang.
So plan "B" would be too complex. This would involve a solenoid that would pop 'em out triggered by a small sensor keyed to the cylinder's position. We'd have a battery involved, wires, small magnets or ??? implanted in the cylinder face...ug. Doable (barely) but messy.
I'm pondering plan "C".
Last might I pulled my cylinder out, unloaded it, put some empties in, took the guts out of a Bic pen to get a tube, and experimented with blowing rounds out of the cylinder with simple lung-powered air pressure.
Holy crap...that works quite well actually. With polished cylinder bores esp. I'm a big guy, don't smoke, PLENTY of lung power for all six chambers, and I can fling the empties a good distance.
So...arright...like so?
1) Take off the stock ejector housing and contents.
2) Drill and tap a small hole on the part of the frame around the ejector rod.
3) Run a piece of brass tube in place of the ejector rod, alongside the barrel, similar in size to the ejector rod housing. Plug the end of the tube near the barrel completely. Punch a hole in the tube somewhere near the middle, and run a "T" junction tube into that. This "T" tube then gets bent so that it runs back along the barrel towards the frame and then does a small dogleg outwards.
4) Set up a second piece of tube, straight, about 8" long. Using moldable putty epoxy, build a mouthpiece on one end and on the other just use a flare tool to build a female "fitting point" that links to the "male" tube fitting on the gun just forward of the cylinder on the right-hand side. It would otherwise stay in a fitted compartment on my holster.
Upshot:
As I'm getting close to running the gun dry, grab the straight tube and bite the right end. When dry, flip the loading gate open, take a deep breath, link the tubes and blow while spinning the cylinder.
Refill cylinder from another straight tube used as a speedloader...complete with a long spring from a 22LR levergun pushing the rounds out.
OK. It's nuts. I admit it. But big fun if it works.
.I want to be able to empty and reload an SA wheelgun as fast as most people can do so with a conventional DA.
To do it, I have to get the empties out FAST, which means some sort of "pressure eject" system.
My first thought was to use the power of a CO2 cartridge "spraying" empties out as I push an air release button and spin the cylinder. Pieces from a bicycle emergency air inflator system looked promising.
Nope. Won't work. They won't hold the air long enough once a threaded CO2 cartridge is punctured. The cannister would go flat in the holster in short order...and we're not even talking hours, we're talking minutes.
Dang.
So plan "B" would be too complex. This would involve a solenoid that would pop 'em out triggered by a small sensor keyed to the cylinder's position. We'd have a battery involved, wires, small magnets or ??? implanted in the cylinder face...ug. Doable (barely) but messy.
I'm pondering plan "C".
Last might I pulled my cylinder out, unloaded it, put some empties in, took the guts out of a Bic pen to get a tube, and experimented with blowing rounds out of the cylinder with simple lung-powered air pressure.
Holy crap...that works quite well actually. With polished cylinder bores esp. I'm a big guy, don't smoke, PLENTY of lung power for all six chambers, and I can fling the empties a good distance.
So...arright...like so?
1) Take off the stock ejector housing and contents.
2) Drill and tap a small hole on the part of the frame around the ejector rod.
3) Run a piece of brass tube in place of the ejector rod, alongside the barrel, similar in size to the ejector rod housing. Plug the end of the tube near the barrel completely. Punch a hole in the tube somewhere near the middle, and run a "T" junction tube into that. This "T" tube then gets bent so that it runs back along the barrel towards the frame and then does a small dogleg outwards.
4) Set up a second piece of tube, straight, about 8" long. Using moldable putty epoxy, build a mouthpiece on one end and on the other just use a flare tool to build a female "fitting point" that links to the "male" tube fitting on the gun just forward of the cylinder on the right-hand side. It would otherwise stay in a fitted compartment on my holster.
Upshot:
As I'm getting close to running the gun dry, grab the straight tube and bite the right end
. When dry, flip the loading gate open, take a deep breath, link the tubes and blow while spinning the cylinder.Refill cylinder from another straight tube used as a speedloader...complete with a long spring from a 22LR levergun pushing the rounds out.
OK. It's nuts. I admit it. But big fun if it works
.