Parts question for Glock 26 gen 3

[Alan0354]

Hi

I am buying a Glock 26 gen 3. I want to buy the ejector and extractor and the spring that goes with it.

Are these parts same for other 9mm Glocks? I went on line, the parts for 9mm before gen 5 seems to be the same, there's no specific 26 parts. I just want to know whether it is true.

Also, I am planning to buy Glock factory parts, but I am open for better quality. I am not looking for high performance, mainly looking for longivity.

I know a lot of you guys told me I should not tough the gun, go shoot first. But for me, shooting is one thing, I am just as interested if not more in gun smithing. I am going to modify the gun to get better ejection, extraction whether the stock gun is reliable or not, this is just part of my hobby. I did same thing for all my other semi auto guns with great success( they did have problems in reliability before I fixed them).

Thanks

 

[rock185]

Alan0354, FWIW, I'm retired now, but was an LE Glock armorer for some years. Within my humble experience, Glocks are among the most reliable and robust semi-automatic pistols to be found. With quality factory ammunition, reloads/remanufactured, etc. ammunition doesn't count, they are about as close to 100% reliability as any pistols I know of. So enjoy your hobby, but I'm another that would suggest shooting the gun before modifications start...

 

[stephen426]

I don’t think there are any ejection or extraction issues with the Glock 26. If you want to tinker, the sights are probably the first place to do it. Putting on a “better” connector is next and is an easy way to improve the trigger pull. Next step would be putting a “better” trigger like Zev or Agency Arms. I don’t mess with the mag release or slide release lever as those aren’t an issue for me. Some people like the tungsten guide rod to add a little more weight to the front. The Glock 26 has a double recoil spring and the recoil isn’t bad at all. I’ve never had to mess with the extractor or ejector, so I’m really curious why y0u mentioned those parts.

 

[Shadow9mm]

Glocks generally run 100% out of the box. Personally, the only thing I would upgrade would be the sights.

I had a 3rd gen G22 issues as a duty weapon. had it for about 5 years before they swapped to G17 4th gen. Fired a couple thousand through in in academy. Several hundred a year during training. Mags always stayed loaded. Only time I ever had problems was about 4yrs in of use had some failures to feed. Magazine springs were getting weak. replaced magazine springs, no more issues.

If i remember correctly, gen 3 guns did have a tendency to throw brass almost straight up on ejection, somewhere between a noon and 3oclock. Had pieces come down on my head before. but it always got the brass out of the gun.

My advice. Shoot the gun, then see what you feel like needs fixing.

Yes, parts do vary by generation, some change and some don't, can't tell you for sure which changed.

 

[Alan0354]

Thanks guys, like I said, gun smithing was also my hobby. So it's not just the out of the box reliability.

Besides, ammo is hard to get, after I buy the gun, I doubt I'll be going shooting any time soon until I can get some ammo.

To Shadow9mm:
I watch a lot of video of Glock that the empty shell jump every which way. From my experience, that's because of the shell hitting the ejection port of the slide that cause it to tumble and bounce all over the place. I had same problem with my S&W659, Gold Cup 45 and the Walter PPKS. It's all about the angle of the face of the ejector and the extractor. I file it down in certain way to make the 45 and the PPKS shell pop to the right like 5 to 6 ft away consistently. The 659 still tumble, but no more stovepipe anymore. I am sure if I spend more time, I can make the 659 eject the shell as good as the other two.

This is gun smithing, I am into it. I won't modify any of the original parts, I'll take the original ejector and extractor and the spring for the extractor out and store them away, then only modify the new parts I buy, so if I screw up, worst case is just put back the original parts and the gun will be good as new.

I really don't care about the sight and the trigger, Glock is not an accurate gun to start, I have the Gold Cup and the Colt Trouper 8" for target already. those are target guns for accuracy.

All three guns I bought jam quite a bit out of the box at the time. I fixed them to the point I ran over 300 to 500 rounds of different ammo without any malfunction. Like I said before, the guns got to improved quite a bit in the last 30 years, NONE of my semi auto were reliable write out of the box. Not only the ejector and extractor, I had to polish the feed ramp and chamber to avoid feeding problems. Even polish the ejector port. Old style pistols have small ejector ports, that made the extractor and ejector so much more critical. They learn the lesson, ejector port of new pistols are so big all around the top of the slide.

Particular the Colt Gold Cup 45ACP, workmanship was so bad, sloppy fitting. that was over $600 in 1988, it's a lot of money at the time!!!

 

[JohnKSa]

The ejector is a steel part that slides into the plastic trigger mechanism housing. If you take it in and out of the housing, eventually it's going to get loose and cause problems. If you try to bend or "adjust" it while it's installed in the housing (assuming it will bend without breaking) you will likely damage the plastic housing.

I guess you can grind or file on the end, but it is already the right length and the end is already profiled properly for 9mm ejection.

You may be able to find a 9mm ejector for sale separately, but I think it's most common for it to come as part of the trigger mechanism housing these days.

The extractor spring is tensioned by a plastic, caliber-specific buffer--Glock calls it a bearing. I guess you can mess with the spring--maybe grind on it to try to reduce the tension. I don't know--I don't recall anyone ever having tried that. Maybe try buffers from different calibers to see if they make a difference.

I think if you mess with the extractor you'll be unhappy. They are really hard parts--I guess you can grind on it, but I think it will be hard to shape it much without it chipping.

I'll be interested to see the outcome.

Glock is not an accurate gun to start.

In my experience, it's not uncommon for them to do 2"-3" five shot groups at 25 yards with the right ammunition. Maybe better if you want to spend the time trying a lot of different loadings from the bench to get something the gun really likes.

Read an article awhile back where a guy tried something like 10 different drop-in aftermarket barrels plus the stock barrel to improve accuracy. He tested each barrel with a variety of loads and there was one particular loading that shot so well in the original stock barrel that it actually outclassed all of the tested barrels except one. And that one barrel was not the winning barrel that he picked for being overall most accurate on average.

In other words, the stock barrel with the one loading it really liked provided better accuracy than the barrel he chose as being the overall winner. AND better accuracy than every other barrel in the test, save one.

Glocks aren't target guns, but they tend to be as good or better for accuracy as other guns in their general price range.

I think maybe after you've shot your new Glock a bit, you will have more of an idea of how accurate it is and if it needs to be worked on or not.

 

[Alan0354]

Hi JohnKSa

I found parts for Glock, I just need to make sure it fit the 26. I can buy the whole unit including the ejector for like $10, I am going to buy the gen3 to experiment, remove the ejector and put in a gen4 or gen 5 ejector into the housing. So if it comes loose, I can always put the original unit comes with the gun back. I am not taking any chance on the original parts.

As for the extractor and the spring, I watched the video on youtube how to check the pressure of the extractor on the casing, basically, slide an empty casing and let the ejector hold the casing, make sure the shell doesn't drop out when tilting the slide back and fore to adjust the tension. If it is loose, just stretch the after market spring.

As for accuracy, I really don't care. This is a self defense gun, it's all close distance. My 659 and PPKS shot all over the place, I never even try to measure the grouping. they are nothing like the Gold Cup or the Trouper that I easily get around 1.5" grouping in 5 shots to 25yds on sand bag.

 

[JohnKSa]

If it is loose, just stretch the after market spring.

If you stretch a spring enough to deform it (to make it longer when it is uncompressed), the spring has been ruined. There will be a temporary benefit from stretching a spring, but it will soon relax and when it does, it will relax to a shorter length than it was before stretching due to the deformation damage.

Generally speaking, any time a spring is compressed/stretched/bent enough that it doesn't return to its original configuration, it has been compromised.

If the extractor spring needs to be longer--needs more tension--look at using a thicker bearing/spacer rather than deforming the spring.

Be careful about taking youtube videos as gospel. There was one I watched that recommended using a hammer to drive out the pins in the Glock. The trigger housing pin can be pretty tight on a new gun, but the other two pins are held in place by other means and should generally push out fairly easily if one knows how to release the tension that is holding them in place.

If I were you, I'd shoot the gun and leave it alone if it's not malfunctioning. Maybe you can get someone to recommend a gun that is unlikely to work right out of the box for you to tinker with.

 

[Snuffy308]

This is why I rarely buy used guns.

 

[Willie Lowman]

Most problems with Glocks come from kitchen table gunsmiths trying to "improve" them.

 

[Onward Allusion]

Use a Dremel often?

Like almost everyone said, shoot the thing first. Glocks are one of the most reliable platforms. I got a dozen of 'em and never had any problems with any of them with the exception of one that I had put together from parts and that was because I'd added a NY1 Trigger Spring to try to make it more like a DAO revolver trigger.

To improve on reliability, the only part I would swap out would be the extractor. For my SD Glocks, I have the Lonewolf Alphawolf SS Extractor. It's smoother and made from a solid chunk of SS instead of MIM. Not that I've ever had a stock Extractor break on me. The only thing the stock extractor ever did was wear/get dull. A little filing with a sharpening stone always did the trick.

 

[Don P]

Glock is not an accurate gun to start

Really????
Maybe that's why LE has such a poor hit factor in shoot outs?
Guess all the folks out there shooting the G-34 in competition should just give up and toss them for something "more" accurate.

 

[lee n. field]

Most problems with Glocks come from kitchen table gunsmiths trying to "improve" them.

<futilely looking for a "like button" like the Book of Faces has>

There's a reason why mods make it harder to sell a gun, vs. leaving it factory stock.

 

[unit 900]

I don't think stock sights contribute to pinpoint accuracy. Glocks, in my range of experience, are as accurate as most other service semi autos.

 

[Alan0354]

Really????
Maybe that's why LE has such a poor hit factor in shoot outs?
Guess all the folks out there shooting the G-34 in competition should just give up and toss them for something "more" accurate.

I don't care about accuracy, but my definition of accuracy is shooting at 25yd with less than 2" grouping. If you talk about other ones that walk and shoot fast, that I don't know. I cannot believe Glock can inherently shoot under 2" grouping at 25yds.

 

[Alan0354]

Use a Dremel often?

Like almost everyone said, shoot the thing first. Glocks are one of the most reliable platforms. I got a dozen of 'em and never had any problems with any of them with the exception of one that I had put together from parts and that was because I'd added a NY1 Trigger Spring to try to make it more like a DAO revolver trigger.

To improve on reliability, the only part I would swap out would be the extractor. For my SD Glocks, I have the Lonewolf Alphawolf SS Extractor. It's smoother and made from a solid chunk of SS instead of MIM. Not that I've ever had a stock Extractor break on me. The only thing the stock extractor ever did was wear/get dull. A little filing with a sharpening stone always did the trick.

I read about the MIM extractor, is it really that bad? Those Lonewolf and Apex are very expensive.

 

[Alan0354]

If you stretch a spring enough to deform it (to make it longer when it is uncompressed), the spring has been ruined. There will be a temporary benefit from stretching a spring, but it will soon relax and when it does, it will relax to a shorter length than it was before stretching due to the deformation damage.

Generally speaking, any time a spring is compressed/stretched/bent enough that it doesn't return to its original configuration, it has been compromised.

If the extractor spring needs to be longer--needs more tension--look at using a thicker bearing/spacer rather than deforming the spring.

Be careful about taking youtube videos as gospel. There was one I watched that recommended using a hammer to drive out the pins in the Glock. The trigger housing pin can be pretty tight on a new gun, but the other two pins are held in place by other means and should generally push out fairly easily if one knows how to release the tension that is holding them in place.

If I were you, I'd shoot the gun and leave it alone if it's not malfunctioning. Maybe you can get someone to recommend a gun that is unlikely to work right out of the box for you to tinker with.

Yes, I learned about the thicker bearing(spacer) on the opposite end of the spring now. I won't stretch the spring.

As I said, if I modify, I will put aside all the original parts untouched, only modify on new parts. I even going to buy the gen 3 trigger housing to replace the extractor, not touching the stock trigger housing.

I have no plans to sell any guns at all, retaining the value is not even an issue to consider. Like I said, I already have success on 3 other semi auto to make it very reliable, it's not like this is my first time. I have tools, I have my own work space and all, I am an engineer that worked on all different things, not just any blind tinkler. Gunsmithing is not even hard, a lot of common sense.

Not only I did all the reliability improvement, I accurized my Gold Cup for competitions. I squeeze the slide for tight fit, change the trigger and all. It's NOT that hard if you know what you are doing. Now, the trigger is hard and touchy, have to be very careful.

Of cause I take the youtube with a grain of salt, sometimes they don't even make sense. But if you watch a few, you learn to take down the Glock the right way and how to inspect stuffs.

 

[TunnelRat]

I even going to buy the gen 3 trigger housing to replace the extractor, not touching the stock trigger housing.

I am hoping you mean ejector, because the trigger housing doesn't come with an extractor.

Like I said, I already have success on 3 other semi auto to make it very reliable, it's not like this is my first time. I have tools, I have my own work space and all, I am an engineer that worked on all different things, not just any blind tinkler. Gunsmithing is not even hard, a lot of common sense.

I don't think people are telling you it’s hard. People are telling you to see how it is first before you go swapping parts.

Not only I did all the reliability improvement, I accurized my Gold Cup for competitions.

As people explained to you in the other thread, this isn't a Colt Gold Cup. Glocks generally work out of the box. Messing with something that works "just because" isn't always advisable. But in the end it's your money.

 

[Marco Califo]

I like stock Glocks, and can puck any up at random and qualify. There are some stock part swaps you can make. You can drop a 9mm G19 barrel onto a G23. My G23 shoots 9mm just fine with Glock and Lone Wolf 9mm barrels, with the 40SW ejector and extractor. You DO .NOT NEED TO CHANGE OR MODIFY ANY GLOCK PARTS. Glocks are an excellent system as they leave Austria (Gen 3). Gen 4 and 5 are not allowed into California, as GLOCK USA has not sought the safety rules certification, and provided test handguns to Cali.
If you want to play with parts guns, AR-15 and 1911's are great for that. But in the Glock world, there is nothing to be gained.

 

[Captains1911]

The ejector is not a separate part, but rather part of the trigger housing. The Gen3 9mm trigger housing is the same part for all 9mm Gen3s.

Same holds true for the extractor, extractor depressor plunger, extractor depressor plunger spring, and spring loaded bearing. These parts are all the same for Gen3 9mm Glocks. The extractor itself comes in both a loaded chamber indicator (LCI) version and an earlier version without.

For these specific parts, there’s no good reason not to go with factory OEM glock parts, unless you are buying an aftermarket trigger kit that includes the trigger housing, and therefore the ejector as well.