FrankenMauser
New member
The barrel nut simply holds the barrel to the upper receiver.The barrel nut ensures that proper headspace is maintained. If the barrel nut is not present, headspace will become excessive and catastrophic failure is likely to occur.
Headspace is maintained by the barrel extension, which is attached to the barrel.
When an AR is in battery, the bolt is locked to the barrel via the barrel extension.
The upper receiver of an AR is pretty much just an unstressed 'housing' to keep the BCG, barrel, and gas system bits in alignment; and a 'guide' to let the BCG cycle during firing.
Not single. Far from rich. Many hungry mouths to feed.If I had random disposable income a video would be forthcoming. But I don't. And I have mouths to feed. So, single rich guys up!
...I just happen to have some AR parts lying around that are either 'expendable' or something that I won't cry over if some risk is taken and an undesirable result is the outcome.
It's a similar story with most of the parts, but... The barrel for this experiment, for example, was purchased about five years ago for $11. I was looking for a "Bubba'd take-off barrel" to cut down to about 10", re-thread, and use with no gas system as a dedicated barrel for the golf ball launcher (on my pistol or SBR lowers).
What I found in a now-closed gun shop was an 18" DPMS barrel that had been drilled into from the bottom, when a Bubba in his garage attempted to remove a gas block in which he had previously applied red Loc-Tite to the set screws.
Bubba didn't set the depth stop on his drill press and created an additional gas bleed hole on the bottom of the barrel. (And an extremely thin barrel wall where the other screw was drilled out, as well.)
Otherwise, the bore and chamber were in good shape.
The gun shop owner was saving it for the barrel extension, and possibly to be recut as a pistol barrel. He wouldn't take $10 for it, but I met his minimum asking price when I jumped to $11.
Rather than get right to cutting, I decided to test the barrel's performance. First, I pushed some greased lead slugs through the bore, from each end, in order to break any chips that might have been hanging on the new "gas bleed". Then I assembled some 'beater' and spare parts, and that barrel into a functioning gas-less upper receiver.
I fired it as a manual repeater (no gas block) and accuracy was decent enough with factory ammo - about 1-1/4" at 100 yards, I believe.
Then I installed a cheap aluminum gas block upside-down and backwards, to shut off the gas. (Bottom hole blocked by the gas block. Proper gas port sealed with one of the set screws.)
Worked fine. No change, other than the lack of venting gas.
...And stayed that way, because it was brought to my attention that my golf ball launcher was not considered safe to fire on barrels shorter than 16".
But, for testing what my brother refers to as "The Nutless Wonder", I needed a functioning gas system. So, I dug up a spare gas tube, flipped the gas block back around the right way, and located it so that one of the set screws sealed the extra "gas bleed hole" (which, due to the common methods of manufacturing AR gas blocks, meant that the gas block's gas port was also perfectly aligned with the real gas port).
Test firing went fine, with no signs of gas leaks showing on witness paper that was taped in place specifically for that purpose.
And then off came the gas system, off came the barrel nut, back on went the gas system, and it was ready to go.
But, as you'll see in the video, there's a bit more than the typical amount of gas leakage from the gas block, after it was assembled the last time. I do not believe it to be enough to affect operation of the upper; but it did go from zero leaks to more than average. (I use the terms 'typical amount' and 'more than average' here, because I have seen only two or three ARs that didn't have some leakage at the gas block - even if it was only discovered during disassembly or repair, for some reason.)
Anyway... Bottom line: I don't have money. But I do have parts.