and has has been pointed out even at over 800 - 1300 degrees the time on all the charts is measured in minutes not seconds
I can see where the heat would soften the brass but I think it would be very hard to effect and grain structure changes without a computer and some high quality sensing hardware and software. ie an AMP
First I am not a metallurgical engineer, I am a practical applications guy. If it works that is good enough for me.
You keep going back to one data set that looks to be out of context. As noted, what works is what counts. For a reasonable anneal for the neck and shoulder that is in the 750 deg area.
Amp does not do anything sensing wise as far as I can determine. Its all fixed output and time is the variable.
If you have oddball brass they need a sample to setup the machine for it.
That is why they put in brass mfg specific rather than just time, their machine can control the time down to (1/100?) I would guess if its that critical.
They may get the perfect anneal or as close as you can come. I don't but I make up for my lower control end (manual and to a tench) by doing it every 5 or so.
If AMP has output variability I assume the program that in for that machine.
So they may be able to spot it tighter and they clearly are faster than I am.
You should also keep in mind theorist is not the same as reality, not that the theory is wrong but the variables can change it from academic to reality.
That is why we test. I believe Jeephammer takes slices and adulterer them with chemical to see the grain change not just the vickers hardness.
Out of my expertise a long way. But it goes back to Unclenick, you have repeatability in a process and you can take that to the bank. As long as it meets the goal you really don't care about the rest.
JH and I both found that the paint on Templiaq does not work for seeing what happens with Induction. It interferes with it and you get wrong data.
Not the end of the world, I used Crayon, I forget how he did it. Mine obviously has noise with the crayon but its closer. Keeping in mind all I want is close.
The paint on can be used to ensure lower down the case does not heat up.
I layer my situation with a dark room and watching in the neck of the cases to ensure there is no glow.
ANNIE warns you the unit changes as its used so you run 10 rounds through before settling in. I do that and cross check for glow.
While it sounds cumbersome, its not, its fast and I have the base data in time written down so I have a starting point each run. I do my test and adjust up or down as it goes along. I also carefully watch the color blush change. If I have none that is fine. If I have a bit I am ok but watch it closely. A lot and I back off.
I don't use it as the sole indicator, that is the wrong way as judging color and changes is not that good with people in a fast process. If I get blow before color change I back off. The brass is variable, glow is not, once it glows its too much.
The glow come first inside. So it may not be too much overall but I simply keep away from glow and it works as I likely get 70% and with a repeat 5 rounds fired latter I get it back again and never loose it.
My brother found that the times changed quite a bit if he did a Wet case clean. Makes sense as there is no carbon inside (I believe his takes longer )
An added check is does it polish off by polish point 3? (the slight or significant shift to silver). If so its another indicator.
I guess I need to test a for sure orange glow one, I believe it never polishes off to shiny brass once you go to far. That is experimental but I do know that factory that does not polish off the neck and shoulder anneal does polish off in 2 to 3 tumbling's.
Much like the chemistry of a Nuke plant, you constantly check it and adjust it if its not doing what it should.