6.5 swede
- Thread starter predator86
- Start date
arizona hunter
New member
I love my 6.5 swede! It's a 1942 Husqvarna. Great deer cartridge or javelina or coyotes out to 300 yds. Like Arabia said it's much like the 260 Rem.
I shoot mostly Hornady 129 SST's and Barnes 120 gr X's. i keep the velocity around 2750-2800. Accurate, fine penetration (with the Barnes) and gentle recoil)
I shoot mostly Hornady 129 SST's and Barnes 120 gr X's. i keep the velocity around 2750-2800. Accurate, fine penetration (with the Barnes) and gentle recoil)
It's in VG condition and is the most accurate rifle I own .
I've also used it for coyote hunting
There's also a shorter M38 model and the semi auto Ljungman AG42B that uses the 6.5x55 Swede.
1905 Carl Gustafs M96 Mauser
I shoulda warned you guys , that I'm into gunporn photography....
I've also used it for coyote hunting
There's also a shorter M38 model and the semi auto Ljungman AG42B that uses the 6.5x55 Swede.
1905 Carl Gustafs M96 Mauser
I shoulda warned you guys , that I'm into gunporn photography....
Rampant_Colt
New member
[Heartbreak Ridge] Swede Swede Swede Swede [/HB Ridge]
No finer rifle cartridge exists than the 6.5x55 Swede !!
low recoil+
amazing accuracy+
hard-hitting+
excellent reloading capabilities=
No finer rifle cartridge exists than the 6.5x55 Swede !!
low recoil+
amazing accuracy+
hard-hitting+
excellent reloading capabilities=
James Kain
New member
Telling the dif
My 6.5 is my FAV gun I have ever shot. It really is a dream! I have 14 rifles as of now and shot quite a few in the army. But this rifle is just simply the best rifle I could ask for. Now I m new to the swede, so I m looking for help to find out more about it! What markings am I looking for to tell which type I have? It was sporterised before I got my hands on it. Frankly I dont like doing that to military rifles, but it was done before me. So Its time to replace the barrle because of pitting. But I really dont have to because at 50yrds I m making one hole with a 5rd shot group. But it may just be my shooting, 100yrds was 4" group. When looking down the the barrle it looks like a roling field of smooth pitting. I m going to get a bore scope and take a closer look. But by looking at it now, when I was in the army I would have replaced it. But if I m not needing to for "civilion hunting", then why bother.
My email is Sharpscarbine@gmail.com hit me up if you want to talk reloading and shooting/preditor calling/trapping
My 6.5 is my FAV gun I have ever shot. It really is a dream! I have 14 rifles as of now and shot quite a few in the army. But this rifle is just simply the best rifle I could ask for. Now I m new to the swede, so I m looking for help to find out more about it! What markings am I looking for to tell which type I have? It was sporterised before I got my hands on it. Frankly I dont like doing that to military rifles, but it was done before me. So Its time to replace the barrle because of pitting. But I really dont have to because at 50yrds I m making one hole with a 5rd shot group. But it may just be my shooting, 100yrds was 4" group. When looking down the the barrle it looks like a roling field of smooth pitting. I m going to get a bore scope and take a closer look. But by looking at it now, when I was in the army I would have replaced it. But if I m not needing to for "civilion hunting"
, then why bother.My email is Sharpscarbine@gmail.com hit me up if you want to talk reloading and shooting/preditor calling/trapping
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Good writeup.
Ludwig Olson, the author of Mauser Bolt Rifles, wrote an article, I forget which magazine, and stated that the Swedes used the same plain carbon steels throughout production. Even though the design is strong, and the 1940's metals vastly more uniform, cleaner than 1900 steels, plain carbon steel is still a low grade steel. Plain carbon steel has a high varibility in hardening. Some shallow, some deep, within the same heat treat. Alloy steels harden evenly, give higher yield and ultimate values, and are used in every modern western action.
So what I am saying is, as good as the action design, the metal may or may not be that good, even the late ones. Stick to factory velocities and everything thing will be fine.
James Kain
New member
parts
Hey I m looking for posabley a new barrel and stalk. Are there any good places to get the parts at a good price? If you have any info on such things, Please let me know
THANKS
Hey I m looking for posabley a new barrel and stalk. Are there any good places to get the parts at a good price? If you have any info on such things, Please let me know
THANKS
sneaky pete
New member
Mil-surp Sweds NOT built to Saami specs!
Old Sneaky here: Lest you all forgot the Swed 6.5X55 was Not built to SAAMI specs (which relates to Sporting Arms) but was built to and chambers cut to CIP specs which are DIFFERENT. I seriously doubt that SAAMI existed when the 6.5X55 cartridge was designed by Swed/Norway. The case sizes are different! That's why the European cases are the correct size(but cost more). These "Warnings" are about Lawyers--If you publish reloading data some lawyer might feel that you are responsible if something goes wrong???.
Old Sneaky here: Lest you all forgot the Swed 6.5X55 was Not built to SAAMI specs (which relates to Sporting Arms) but was built to and chambers cut to CIP specs which are DIFFERENT. I seriously doubt that SAAMI existed when the 6.5X55 cartridge was designed by Swed/Norway. The case sizes are different! That's why the European cases are the correct size(but cost more). These "Warnings" are about Lawyers--If you publish reloading data some lawyer might feel that you are responsible if something goes wrong???.
When will all these targets and "dinner in the rough" figure out they're being confronted with a less-than-modern and throughly-up-to-spec projectile/rifle combo and stop the madness!
And...what could we have been thinking shooting these lower than modern pressure loadings in 100 yr rifles made out of funky old metal...?
These things aren't magnums, they aren't even barn-burners! I mean really!!
S-
And...what could we have been thinking shooting these lower than modern pressure loadings in 100 yr rifles made out of funky old metal...?
These things aren't magnums, they aren't even barn-burners! I mean really!!
S-
James Kain
New member
Why Magnums?
I agree with ya there not PUSHING the PSI and FPS as magnums so whats the issue?
I agree with ya there not PUSHING the PSI and FPS as magnums so whats the issue?
Why do you need a magnum and barn burners? These rifles have been killing long before you and I walked the earth. Why are they tossed a side because they dont sling lead in a flat trajectory and pushing bullets over 3000FPS? Because we like to cut the critter in half and forget about the bullet after we pull the trigger? Because you know unless it strikes a large tree the sucker will end up in the next county or state!
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Wildalaska
Moderator
Its even less of a barnburner now that Alliant has dropped its charge wieghts down for 6.5x55 loads...hell, my tried and proven light loads are now above max
WildbummerAlaska TM
WildbummerAlaska TM
James Kain
New member
Powders
I m not a big fan of maxing out my charges. I usly go for mid to low range. I do not require such a extream! I m only killing paper and coyotes. Soon as I get my gas checks in I m loading up some lead. I v talked to people who cast lead and they say I m keeping some wicked nice looking bullets. So lets see what happends. My 308 and 30.06 cast are tack drivers at 50yrds so cross your fingers!
I m not a big fan of maxing out my charges. I usly go for mid to low range. I do not require such a extream! I m only killing paper and coyotes. Soon as I get my gas checks in I m loading up some lead. I v talked to people who cast lead and they say I m keeping some wicked nice looking bullets. So lets see what happends. My 308 and 30.06 cast are tack drivers at 50yrds so cross your fingers!
In a modern M70 Classic, or a M700 Classic series in 6.5 Swede, there is nothing unsafe in pushing the 6.5 Swede to its fullest potential. However in older military surplus rifles, stick to Swedish service rifle velocities.
M1896 Infantry Rifle 29' barrel Carl Gustafs mfgr 1903
17-Aug-06 T = 85 °F
143 gr FMJ 1986 Swedish Ball
Ave Vel = 2610
Std Dev = 14.38
ES = 45.59
High = 2633
Low = 2587
N = 8
M38 Infantry Carbine 24" barrel
28-Oct-94 T ≈ 60 °F
143 gr 1986 Swedish Ball OAL 3.065" 47.4 grs powder average
Ave Vel = 2427
Std Dev = 22
ES = 62
Low = 2395
High = 2457
N = 10
M700 22" Barrel
143 gr Swedish Ball 1986 headstamp
2 Feb 2008 T = 54 °F
Ave Vel = 2470
Std Dev = 18
ES = 48
High = 2491
Low = 2443
N = 5
M1896 Infantry Rifle 29' barrel Carl Gustafs mfgr 1903
17-Aug-06 T = 85 °F
143 gr FMJ 1986 Swedish Ball
Ave Vel = 2610
Std Dev = 14.38
ES = 45.59
High = 2633
Low = 2587
N = 8
M38 Infantry Carbine 24" barrel
28-Oct-94 T ≈ 60 °F
143 gr 1986 Swedish Ball OAL 3.065" 47.4 grs powder average
Ave Vel = 2427
Std Dev = 22
ES = 62
Low = 2395
High = 2457
N = 10
M700 22" Barrel
143 gr Swedish Ball 1986 headstamp
2 Feb 2008 T = 54 °F
Ave Vel = 2470
Std Dev = 18
ES = 48
High = 2491
Low = 2443
N = 5
James Kain
New member
Holly crap it dosnt get cold there in the winter!
James Kain
New member
Barrel Lanth
I love my swede but wish the guy who cut the barrel had not cut it so short! I have a 18 1/2" barrel and I bet if it was longer I d be stacking them into one hole! Where is a good place to get a barrel better yet any parts?
I love my swede but wish the guy who cut the barrel had not cut it so short! I have a 18 1/2" barrel and I bet if it was longer I d be stacking them into one hole! Where is a good place to get a barrel better yet any parts?