Why I stopped carrying Pistols

Nanuk

New member
What makes you think revolvers are "inherently more accurate?"

The barrel is fixed, the sights are attached to the barrel/frame and never move in relation to the barrel.

Actually, the reverse is true, mechanically speaking. Revolvers are "inherently" less accurate, because you have 5 or 6 SEPARATE chambers, each one needing precise alignment with the single barrel.

They do remarkably well as long as it is functioning properly. They actually go into a cone that aligns them with the bore.
 

44 AMP

Staff
Resolved: revolvers shoot accurately for folks who can't shoot semi-auto pistols accurately.

Agreed?

No. Not as a blanket statement. Some people can't shoot either kind accurately.:rolleyes:


Both revolvers and semi autos range from tiny and difficult to shoot up to huge and difficult to shoot.

You pick one from column A and one from B to prove your point, and I'll do the same, and if we pick well, we'll both be right! :D
 
I've actually found that my heavier revolvers like my original Colt Python or my 2" EAA Windicator & my G19 are equally quite accurate. It's the light weight guns that I'm not as accurate with. With the exception of my LCR 327 in magnum Revolver. But, that had nothing to do with the G43 jamming. Also, being an AuxLEO, I've been in some dicey situations on duty but never had any trouble with"buglers".
 

44 AMP

Staff
The trick with buglers is #1, FACE THEM AWAY FROM YOU!

and don't let them near the PA mike! :D

unless they have those cone shaped chips!
 

Cheapshooter

New member
Wait, didn't the term "pistolero" happen before there were semi auto's
?
Boot pistols, belt pistols, dueling pistols, starter pistols. How many of those are semi autos?
But then the big question. Do you put a clip in a pistol?:eek::D
 

USMCGrunt

New member
Well, I’ve had my S&W 586 bind up the cylinder, had an old M&P with timing issues and an old Taurus 85CH that had timing issues that it might not reliably ignite the round and when it did, there was a good chance it would spit lead back at you. Conversely, I’ve never had a stoppage (yet) of any kind from my quality autos like HK, Glock, Sig, Walther, etc. Does this mean I wrote off revolvers? Nope. I still carry a 642 as a backup gun. However, one thing I did learn, especially with a bound up cylinder, is that when a cylinder binds up, she’s done and out of the game until you get it open which in my case involved tapping it open with a mallet. However, when an auto stops working, a “tap-rack-bang” (aka immediate action) cures probably 90% of the problems, 5% can be cured by the “rip-rack-reload-bang” solution (aka remedial action) and the other 5% is due to a broken part and it’s out of the fight until you get it repaired. At the end of the day, no matter if it’s a revolver or auto, anything mechanical can fail at any given time. So, the idea of “having 2 is 1 and having 1 is diddle” which is why I always have a backup on me as well.
 

Lohman446

New member
Just out of curiosity if you have never had a stoppage of any kind with a quality auto how do you have enough of a sample to know what fixes said stoppages and how often it does?

I will agree though a stoppage in a revolver generally means you better hope it is not an ultralight because the heavier ones, like an SP101, make much better clubs.
 

USMCGrunt

New member
I was a combat arms instructor with AFSOC. You have no idea how many problems early Check-mate brand magazines caused in the M9 pistols when sand and dust got into that magazine with the rough finish they used back in the early days or the number of cracked and broken locking blocks I’ve had to change out on the students pistols.

Oh, and when the salesman uses the phrase, “military grade”, I’m generally reminded that this can also mean, “made by the lowest bidder.” :rolleyes:
 

Lohman446

New member
You had more expertise then I expected :) Should have guessed by the name.

What worried me about the comment is the amount of shooters who practice tap, rack, bang through induced failures and then seem to think that such failures are the only issue. There is a lot mechanically that can go wrong with a gun (either a revolver or an auto) that cannot be quickly remedied in the field.
 

Nanuk

New member
I've actually found that my heavier revolvers like my original Colt Python or my 2" EAA Windicator & my G19 are equally quite accurate. It's the light weight guns that I'm not as accurate with.

Thats not the gun then.
 

Nanuk

New member
had an old M&P with timing issues and an old Taurus 85CH that had timing issues that it might not reliably ignite the round and when it did, there was a good chance it would spit lead back at you.

That is a maintenance issue(user), not a gun failure. Parts wear and need to be replaced. How old was the M&P? Did it happen all at once or gradually got worse?

Well, I’ve had my S&W 586 bind up the cylinder,
However, one thing I did learn, especially with a bound up cylinder, is that when a cylinder binds up, she’s done and out of the game until you get it open which in my case involved tapping it open with a mallet.

Why did the cylinder bind up?

Was is ammo or crud? One is an ammo problem the other a user problem, not a gun problem.
 
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