Dragline45
New member
Rem Oil, far too thin for anything other than rust prevention. I do use it in my magazines and buffer tubes though because when it dries it leaves behind a dry film of teflon lubricant.
What lubricant is NO good
- Thread starter WIN71
- Start date
I don't generally use WD-40, but if it's what I got it will do the job. Not a bad solvent really, at least for cleaning the gunk out of a shotgun barrel. I've never had any problem with WD-40, but then I don't soak my guns in it, then leave it on for 10-12 years. I spay it on, and wipe it off. YMMV.
These days, I generally use some stuff marked as "gun oil." I get it at the LGS, or Wal-Mart, or wherever. Cost a couple of bucks for a small bottle, but I'm not drinking it, so it lasts a good while. Some of it is Hoppes, some is Outers, and probably some other brands. I use it on fishing reels too. As a matter of fact, I use "fishing reel" oil on guns too, now that I think about it.
There might be something that works better. I never bothered looking for it.
What doesn't work? I generally don't use any grease at all. I used to use it on semi-auto slide rails, but that was about it. Eventually I just started putting a drop of oil on them too.
These days, I generally use some stuff marked as "gun oil." I get it at the LGS, or Wal-Mart, or wherever. Cost a couple of bucks for a small bottle, but I'm not drinking it, so it lasts a good while. Some of it is Hoppes, some is Outers, and probably some other brands. I use it on fishing reels too. As a matter of fact, I use "fishing reel" oil on guns too, now that I think about it.
There might be something that works better. I never bothered looking for it.
What doesn't work? I generally don't use any grease at all. I used to use it on semi-auto slide rails, but that was about it. Eventually I just started putting a drop of oil on them too.
When we ran Sigs I used WD40 and had a malfunction at the worst time and almost paid the ultimate price. I went to Sig and was told to never use WD40 as it dries out the gun, it does not lubricate (Sig words not mine.) Also the State Game Wardens had trouble with WD40 and would not allow it's officers to use it. Rem oil has worked fine for my Glocks but on heavy use during the range with M4 rifles, Rem 870 police shotgun and Sigs classic series I found Rem Oil does not hold up well and requires repeated application during training, unlike TW25 or even break free CLP. This is my experience others may have different experiences.
crazy charlie
New member
What is the worst lubricant, home remedy?
Crisco.
Why? Because it's shortening
You start out with a 6" bbl. and end up with a snub nose if you're not careful.
Crisco.
Why? Because it's shortening
You start out with a 6" bbl. and end up with a snub nose if you're not careful.
johnwilliamson062
Moderator
Remoil is a standout failure to me especialy since it is marketed for the purpose. I bought some individually packed wipes almost ten years ago. I still have them as I only use them in emergencies at the range to wipe things down. It is super light and then seems to evaporates within days.
MattShlock
New member
WD-40
Smells great, but forms a shellac-like hard coating on stuff after years (I've experienced this long before there WAS an internet!) that's hard to remove and does necessarily protect things from rusting well then if disturbed.
LOVE RemOil -- light, sweet, dry Teflon infused.
Smells great, but forms a shellac-like hard coating on stuff after years (I've experienced this long before there WAS an internet!) that's hard to remove and does necessarily protect things from rusting well then if disturbed.
LOVE RemOil -- light, sweet, dry Teflon infused.
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Bill DeShivs
New member
If you use WD 40 properly, this will never happen.
PatientWolf
New member
I've heard of people using motor oil, but I'd stay away from Arco Graphite since it could be kinda messy on a firearm.
Model12Win
Moderator
Rem oil really seems to disipate too quickly for my needs.
Bacon fat is not good as it has salt in it.
Bacon fat is not good as it has salt in it.
What not to use.
Other things to think about.
If this is a carry gun, you may want to think about choosing something non-toxic and that won't cause stains on clothing.
- Oils with chlorine containing compounds.
- It's probably wise to avoid graphite lubricants on guns with aluminum components.
- Really thick oils. Oils need to migrate a little to get into the areas that need lubrication, so if the oil is too thick it won't get where it needs to go. Also, in very cold conditions, thick oils may thicken to the point that they tie up the gun.
- Really thin oils. If the oil is too thin, it's not going to provide much lubrication. HOWEVER, don't be fooled into disregarding lubricants that use a very thin carrier to get a dry/semi-dry lube where it needs to go. The carrier isn't doing the lubrication and is usually intended to evaporate. In that case, the thinner it is, the better. With this kind of lube, you may need to shake the container vigorously to insure that the dry/semi-dry lube is thoroughly mixed with the carrier before applying the lubricant.
- Oils that don't provide adequate corrosion protection. If you live in a desert and only buy stainless steel guns, then what constitutes "adequate corrosion protection" is different for you than for someone who prefers blued steel firearms and who lives on a houseboat that's parked on saltwater.
Other things to think about.
If this is a carry gun, you may want to think about choosing something non-toxic and that won't cause stains on clothing.
Which sigs and do you know what malfunction? The firing pin jamming?
P229. I don't wish to go into the whole event, Sig classic series prefer proper lubrication and if they don't have it during hard use you can get malfunctions. It was a rainy week and I repeatedly applied WD40 at the end of tour. When the incident happened the firearm suffered a serious malfunction that took me out of the fight at a critical moment. The firearm, when released several months later, was taken to Sig for examination and I spoke with them directly after the incident. As a matter of fact WD40 was the furthest thing from my mind when I tried to diagnose what happened, they figured it out not me.
For decades I used WD 40 as a preservative and as a lubricant, for the most part without any negative issues. That is, until several firearms exhibited a hard, wax-like residue where the stuff had hardened over time. It worked fine as a rust preventative but caused a couple of my guns to have their "innards" gunked up with a residue so hard and tacky (much like a cheap shellac) that it prevented function. If by using WD 40 "properly" means stripping the gun down on a regular basis and cleaning the residue out, well, I suppose that's good advice for the proper maintenance of any firearm, no matter which lubricant and/or preservative is applied. But I will rely only on lubricants having non-hardening properties no matter how long they are left inside the internal mechanisms of any firearm I rely on to fire without any further ado. TW25 and "Break-Free" CLP are two lubricants that I have used over the past few years that have not "solidified" or gotten "gummy" over time.
RAfiringline
New member
>[]wd40] It also dries and leaves behind what folks call a "varnish" type of film.<
I'll second that. I once had to spend a lot of time getting the dry residue layer off a shotgun. I use wd40 to clean powder residue off my fingers after I shoot my revolver, and to get oil off my hands after gun cleaning. It's ok as a cleaner, but if you leave an ample layer on a gun for an extended time you'll get the "varnish" effect.
So far, nobody has bad mouthed ATF, which is basically what I use. Slide rails get general purpose grease, or engine oil.
I'll second that. I once had to spend a lot of time getting the dry residue layer off a shotgun. I use wd40 to clean powder residue off my fingers after I shoot my revolver, and to get oil off my hands after gun cleaning. It's ok as a cleaner, but if you leave an ample layer on a gun for an extended time you'll get the "varnish" effect.
So far, nobody has bad mouthed ATF, which is basically what I use. Slide rails get general purpose grease, or engine oil.
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WD-40...useless as a lubricant for firearms, but a good water displacement agent if you drop into the drink with your blue-steel beauty.
I'm an Ed's Red user for cleaning: it's composed of equal parts by volume of; Acetone, Paint thinner or turpentine, ATF fluid, and Kerosene.
For lubricant: it's Ed's Red without the Acetone and Paint Thinner...just use a 50-50 blend of Kerosene and ATF fluid. About as cheap an effective a lube or cleaner that you can buy.
Rod
I'm an Ed's Red user for cleaning: it's composed of equal parts by volume of; Acetone, Paint thinner or turpentine, ATF fluid, and Kerosene.
For lubricant: it's Ed's Red without the Acetone and Paint Thinner...just use a 50-50 blend of Kerosene and ATF fluid. About as cheap an effective a lube or cleaner that you can buy.
Rod