What kind of knife and tools do you use to clean your game
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big al hunter
New member
I have tried many. A Buck 106 is in my pack all the time. The best knife I have ever had was a Cutco. It is a drop point hunting knife. 4" blade. It dressed and skinned a deer and an elk without sharpening. I had to put it away half way through a second elk. It sharpens easily and holds an edge. I also have a few Old Timer knives. Generally good steel. I like a drop point about 4" long for dressing and quartering deer or elk. Longer is handy when butchering and wrapping, but my longest blade is only 6". One of my hunting buddies swears by Havelon knives. When it gets dull you change the blade. That's fine, until you are 2 miles from the truck and 50 miles from the nearest store when you realize the extra blades are at home....
Carry a wet stone with you too. Doesn't need to be big, but it is handy when you need it. And it's lighter than a second knife.
A few yards of paracord comes in real handy when you need another hand to hold up a leg or something, but your hunting buddy is a mile away. I also use it to hang quarters to cool as I continue cutting up the animal. And game bags help keep the meat clean and prevents flies from laying eggs in your hard earned meat. I have a small folding saw to cut the hind leg bone below the knee. It is easier than cutting the joint with a knife. But I usually use a knife to cut the joint apart on the front legs.
A towel or a rag is nice to help clean up when you're done. I started carrying a small pack of wet wipes too. Just don't leave them in the woods.
Carry a wet stone with you too. Doesn't need to be big, but it is handy when you need it. And it's lighter than a second knife.
A few yards of paracord comes in real handy when you need another hand to hold up a leg or something, but your hunting buddy is a mile away. I also use it to hang quarters to cool as I continue cutting up the animal. And game bags help keep the meat clean and prevents flies from laying eggs in your hard earned meat. I have a small folding saw to cut the hind leg bone below the knee. It is easier than cutting the joint with a knife. But I usually use a knife to cut the joint apart on the front legs.
A towel or a rag is nice to help clean up when you're done. I started carrying a small pack of wet wipes too. Just don't leave them in the woods.
I use a 4-1/2" fixed blade clip point blade, same knife I've been using for 40 years. Not fancy, but it works well. I carry an old USMC entrenching tool in my frame pack in case I need a hole to bury stuff in. Carry my water bottle in the same pack, along with rope and my food. And I shoot an old Mauser 98 in 7X57. I'm beginning to think I'm an old fart.
bamaranger
New member
tools
Not only are there many models of knives, but, ...have you noticed,..... most knives are cheaper than guns, take less space stored......one can buy more knives than guns!!!!!
I clean small game with any folding/pocketknife I might have chosen to carry that day. Truth is, I do very little small game hunting anymore. For deer I have the following preferences:
GP knife- I hunt primarily from climbing treestands, and I do not take a fixed blade knife aloft for fear of falling on the dang thing somehow. But a fella needs a knife on him when about, so my bowhunt/treestand GP knife is either a Buck 112 folding Ranger, or a vintage, bigger locking blade, Case Sodbuster. I've also toted a Gerber Gator a bit, and a orange handled Inox. All folding knives, stainless, with about 3-1/2" blades. But I do not like a folder for quartering or even gutting, as I find a fixed blade easier to clean later. As boyscout as it sounds, I often leave the big folders and just carry a Tinker model Swiss/Victrinox
Gutting-it is rare that I need to gut a deer on the spot. Normally I can get it home quickly or to a game pole, where disemboweling is easier and cleaner. Lots of folks disagree with this, and if too far from home, entrails have been pierced, or its particularly hot, I will gut on the spot, but that is not my norm. As wimpy as it sounds, I like the gut hook gadgets, and have a couple, all gifts. I looked at them as wussy 'till I used them, and now appreciate their handiness. A CRKT gut hook Ringer was the first, it combines a hook with a cutting blade, a combo I do not generally like, but the Ringer is so compact that I can tolerate it. Bamboy bought me a dedicated gut hook from Gerber, the Vital Zip, it is orange and takes utility knife blades. It is solely a hook, but works well at that task. Recently my sister gave me a Wyoming Knife, which has a hook and a separate knife blade. It is very unconventional, I have not used it on game, but the potential is there for a useful tool.
Skin and Quarter-normally, I hang the animal, skin, disembowel, and quarter/piece up for cooling. For skinning and quartering and piecing up, I like a fixed blade knife with about a 3-1/2" or so blade. For a long time I used a Buck Mini Mentor, but recently have switched to a Cold Steel, Canadian Belt Knife, which is a tad larger. I also have a couple of Schrade 154OT, drop point skinners, which I like alot as well. I had to add friction tape to the Cold Steel Canadian, as the plastic grips were to slick when bloody, but the longer length is appreciated when making big cuts.
Other Tools- I use a vintage Boy Scout (no kidding) hatchet to cut off the head, split the pelvis, take off ribs once boned and lop up the spine. Makes the carcass easier to dispose. I use a set of limb loppers , about 3 foot long, to cut off the legs, used to use a folding saw with bone blade, but a real pain to clean, and the bone saw 'bout wore me out cutting off skullcaps/antlers. I'm thinking about getting a cheap, cordless "reciprocating saw" just for antlers/skullcap
The folder of some type is in my pocket, everything else, he extra folders, fixed blades, hooks and hatchet, all live in drawstring GI stakebag hung in the Bronco 'till I need them.
Not only are there many models of knives, but, ...have you noticed,..... most knives are cheaper than guns, take less space stored......one can buy more knives than guns!!!!!
I clean small game with any folding/pocketknife I might have chosen to carry that day. Truth is, I do very little small game hunting anymore. For deer I have the following preferences:
GP knife- I hunt primarily from climbing treestands, and I do not take a fixed blade knife aloft for fear of falling on the dang thing somehow. But a fella needs a knife on him when about, so my bowhunt/treestand GP knife is either a Buck 112 folding Ranger, or a vintage, bigger locking blade, Case Sodbuster. I've also toted a Gerber Gator a bit, and a orange handled Inox. All folding knives, stainless, with about 3-1/2" blades. But I do not like a folder for quartering or even gutting, as I find a fixed blade easier to clean later. As boyscout as it sounds, I often leave the big folders and just carry a Tinker model Swiss/Victrinox
Gutting-it is rare that I need to gut a deer on the spot. Normally I can get it home quickly or to a game pole, where disemboweling is easier and cleaner. Lots of folks disagree with this, and if too far from home, entrails have been pierced, or its particularly hot, I will gut on the spot, but that is not my norm. As wimpy as it sounds, I like the gut hook gadgets, and have a couple, all gifts. I looked at them as wussy 'till I used them, and now appreciate their handiness. A CRKT gut hook Ringer was the first, it combines a hook with a cutting blade, a combo I do not generally like, but the Ringer is so compact that I can tolerate it. Bamboy bought me a dedicated gut hook from Gerber, the Vital Zip, it is orange and takes utility knife blades. It is solely a hook, but works well at that task. Recently my sister gave me a Wyoming Knife, which has a hook and a separate knife blade. It is very unconventional, I have not used it on game, but the potential is there for a useful tool.
Skin and Quarter-normally, I hang the animal, skin, disembowel, and quarter/piece up for cooling. For skinning and quartering and piecing up, I like a fixed blade knife with about a 3-1/2" or so blade. For a long time I used a Buck Mini Mentor, but recently have switched to a Cold Steel, Canadian Belt Knife, which is a tad larger. I also have a couple of Schrade 154OT, drop point skinners, which I like alot as well. I had to add friction tape to the Cold Steel Canadian, as the plastic grips were to slick when bloody, but the longer length is appreciated when making big cuts.
Other Tools- I use a vintage Boy Scout (no kidding) hatchet to cut off the head, split the pelvis, take off ribs once boned and lop up the spine. Makes the carcass easier to dispose. I use a set of limb loppers , about 3 foot long, to cut off the legs, used to use a folding saw with bone blade, but a real pain to clean, and the bone saw 'bout wore me out cutting off skullcaps/antlers. I'm thinking about getting a cheap, cordless "reciprocating saw" just for antlers/skullcap
The folder of some type is in my pocket, everything else, he extra folders, fixed blades, hooks and hatchet, all live in drawstring GI stakebag hung in the Bronco 'till I need them.
Blindstitch
New member
My go to knives are Rapala filleting knives and Outdoor edge Razor series. Good for skinning and butchering deer, birds, other small game. My edc pocket knives are Gerber air ranger and a gerber multi tool.
My grandpa use to carry a buck knife or marble arms ( pretty much the scary movie knife) and a hatchet. The hatchet worked great on the ribcage and pelvic bone. I've even seen him skin deer with it.
The mention of a reciprocating saw is a good idea. You can get corded ones for $20 at harbor freight but I have a Porter Cable 20max and a lot of batteries.
Honorable mention would be a Work Sharp Belt Knife sharpener. I picked one up for christmas because a guy a Scheels sharpened my knife razor sharp while I was shopping. I've probably sharpened 30 knives razor sharp since then. No need for dull knives with this thing around.
My grandpa use to carry a buck knife or marble arms ( pretty much the scary movie knife) and a hatchet. The hatchet worked great on the ribcage and pelvic bone. I've even seen him skin deer with it.
The mention of a reciprocating saw is a good idea. You can get corded ones for $20 at harbor freight but I have a Porter Cable 20max and a lot of batteries.
Honorable mention would be a Work Sharp Belt Knife sharpener. I picked one up for christmas because a guy a Scheels sharpened my knife razor sharp while I was shopping. I've probably sharpened 30 knives razor sharp since then. No need for dull knives with this thing around.
Battle Horse Knives
When CUTCO came out with a hunting line several years ago, I bought one for myself, my son, and three friends. Very pleased with my kitchen set, gave it a try. Satisfied until I discovered Battlehorse Knives this year and I was blown away. A fellow hunter at a guided hunt was using a Small Workhorse. He was on his 100th hog without sharpening. I bought one and a larger North Camp for easier work around joints. Paid $170 for the SW and $200 for the NC. They are fantastic.
When CUTCO came out with a hunting line several years ago, I bought one for myself, my son, and three friends. Very pleased with my kitchen set, gave it a try. Satisfied until I discovered Battlehorse Knives this year and I was blown away. A fellow hunter at a guided hunt was using a Small Workhorse. He was on his 100th hog without sharpening. I bought one and a larger North Camp for easier work around joints. Paid $170 for the SW and $200 for the NC. They are fantastic.
Size does matter !!!
First off, this is an excellent question/topic. I also have to compliment the replies, an important factor is; what you hunt, field dressing and home processing. An old-timer taught me how to field dress and home process, a variety of game. Most of the time, he only used a folding "Trapper". My current knife for small game and Whitetails is a "Juno" by Buck. It's a small drop point lock-back. I use to use a Buck-110. For small game, I might add a set of garden clippers.
I leave "all" gut-piles, in the field and take the rest to hang, in the garage. This last season, we had up 17-Whitetails hanging. ......
HATCHETS; Almost a must when we were hunting in Wyoming.
Gut-Hooks; Never use them.
Replaceable Blades; Looks good, very sharp but don't use them either.
Trapper's Gloves; Very handy when working inside large carcasses.
Be Safe !!!
First off, this is an excellent question/topic. I also have to compliment the replies, an important factor is; what you hunt, field dressing and home processing. An old-timer taught me how to field dress and home process, a variety of game. Most of the time, he only used a folding "Trapper". My current knife for small game and Whitetails is a "Juno" by Buck. It's a small drop point lock-back. I use to use a Buck-110. For small game, I might add a set of garden clippers.
I leave "all" gut-piles, in the field and take the rest to hang, in the garage. This last season, we had up 17-Whitetails hanging. ......
HATCHETS; Almost a must when we were hunting in Wyoming.
Gut-Hooks; Never use them.
Replaceable Blades; Looks good, very sharp but don't use them either.
Trapper's Gloves; Very handy when working inside large carcasses.
Be Safe !!!
ballisticxlr
New member
Someone else's if I can help it. Then they get to sharpen their knives. If I have to do it myself I prefer a Ford F-250 with a rope and a golf ball or a 35gal 100psi air compressor (or a Havalon Piranta) for skinning. I'm happy with $3 fillet knife from the bargain bit at the auto parts store for deboning and a 1/2hp band-saw for just about everything else. The one special knife I use is a Danie Joubert 6" custom that I use for splitting sternums (and changing tires if needs be).
Havalon Piranta uses standard bulk scalpel blades that I buy by the hundred so I'm never without a ridiculously sharp blade. My Danie Joubert is made of Bohler N690 and is a full 1/4" thick at the spine so it can take a serious licking and has enough mass to be useful on sternums. I don't do butcher shop type cuts (t-bone and that jazz). I do meat removal for biltong which basically just pulls each individual muscle out of each muscle group so it's all about cutting tendon and almost never about cutting muscle.
Havalon Piranta uses standard bulk scalpel blades that I buy by the hundred so I'm never without a ridiculously sharp blade. My Danie Joubert is made of Bohler N690 and is a full 1/4" thick at the spine so it can take a serious licking and has enough mass to be useful on sternums. I don't do butcher shop type cuts (t-bone and that jazz). I do meat removal for biltong which basically just pulls each individual muscle out of each muscle group so it's all about cutting tendon and almost never about cutting muscle.
I'm a big fan of these:https://www.sierra.com/morakniv-bas...filterString=gear~d~4868/searchwithin~knives/
You can find more selection on the manufacturer's site, but it's tough to beat Sierra's pricing. Great edge, easy to maintain, and the bright colors make losing it in the brush while you work less likely.
You can find more selection on the manufacturer's site, but it's tough to beat Sierra's pricing. Great edge, easy to maintain, and the bright colors make losing it in the brush while you work less likely.
2damnold4this
New member
+1 on the Moras.
I'm a fan of the Scandinavian grind for an all around outdoor knife and have several inexpensive Moras. I did spend about 30 minutes with each one to get a true Scandi bevel but once that is done, they are razor sharp and it's super easy to touch them up. I have more expensive Scandi knives that are great but I keep two Moras in the truck and one in my hunting pack. They don't hold an edge as well as my more expensive knives but they are easy to touch up. If I had to hunt miles away from my truck or a camp, I might take a more expensive knife but for my needs, the inexpensive Moras win.
I'm a fan of the Scandinavian grind for an all around outdoor knife and have several inexpensive Moras. I did spend about 30 minutes with each one to get a true Scandi bevel but once that is done, they are razor sharp and it's super easy to touch them up. I have more expensive Scandi knives that are great but I keep two Moras in the truck and one in my hunting pack. They don't hold an edge as well as my more expensive knives but they are easy to touch up. If I had to hunt miles away from my truck or a camp, I might take a more expensive knife but for my needs, the inexpensive Moras win.
"Cost" can mean many things..... I've used a 4 3/4" bladed "Utica Sportsman" that was gutting deer before I was even born ..... still use it most of the time. It's not anything fancy- just a stamped carbon steel blade .... the cost is learning to put a good edge on it. With the Smith's Tri-hone I've had since 1985, I can make it shaving sharp in just a few minutes .... and it'll stay that way through gutting and skinning a deer. I use a different set of knives to butcher (also nothing fancy- a 1970's vintage Chicago Cutlery set i inherited from mom) .... Skills are the most dear bought things, I think. I'd rather have those skills than any expensive knife. Those knives are available on E-bay for as little as 10 bucks ..... don't believe the sellers that state that they are "Rare" ..... Utica Cutlery Company stamped out hojillions of these for at least 1/2 a century ..... I've got the matching hatchet, too, but it is also stamped and lacks enough mass to be useful as a hatchet. The hucksters are asking $150 bucks for the set ..... there's a sucker born every minute. Don't be that guy.
Sure Shot Mc Gee
New member
(Chrome metal) Wyoming Knife and a EKA folding fillet for those deep reaching duties.
Whenever and whatever I’m hunting, my daypack is always with me. The cutlery that’s permanently with the pack is my ancient Buck 118 personal, a Kershaw knife/saw combo, and a Condor Final Frontier. With this set, I can do anything in the field on a critter or anything else that needs tending. All three knives, sheaths included, weigh 1 lb., 9 oz.
Jack O'Conner
New member
I've had really good luck with Schrade Golden Spike which is a fixed blade that has just the right shaped blade for my big game hunting needs.
Jack
Jack