What do you do when you buy a used gun?
- Thread starter JohnKSa
- Start date
Kevin Rohrer
New member
The poll did not give the option of having the serial number checked through NCIC.
Crankylove
New member
Field strip, inspect, and clean.
Shoot.
Repeat as desired.
Shoot.
Repeat as desired.
2ndsojourn
New member
I just do a visual and function check. If it's a revolver, I check whatever I can remember from Jim March's sticky on revolver check-out.
I've bought the vast majority of my guns used. The problems with the used ones, revolvers and semiautos have all been spring related. One gun had the hammer spring cut off, causing light hammer strikes. Other than some messed up screws, or cosmetic issues, like cracked and repaired grips, the problems with used guns has been a non-issue. Bad new guns, that's a whole different thing. I haven't had a bad new gun in a while, last one was a Taurus 809 that just didn't feed quite right, but in the past, I've had some really bad ****s that were brand new.
When I get a used gun, I field strip it, clean it, lube it, check the trigger to make sure it's safe, and that's about it. A range test, and if I like it, and it passes, I keep it, at least until I need money. I definitely have some guns I didn't and don't like, and those I don't miss. The bad ones I can't hardly wait to get rid of.
When I get a used gun, I field strip it, clean it, lube it, check the trigger to make sure it's safe, and that's about it. A range test, and if I like it, and it passes, I keep it, at least until I need money. I definitely have some guns I didn't and don't like, and those I don't miss. The bad ones I can't hardly wait to get rid of.
Bushmaster1313
New member
Like any purchase I pays my money and takes my chances -- only more so
Visual inspection of the bore and chamber and muzzle. Function check and dry fire unless it is a .22.
Pull the bolt on bolt actions so I can see down the bore.
Usually don't field strip the gun if it looks good visually and the slide works OK. Pretty easy to see the condition without taking the slide off a pistol.
Revolvers I will check cylinder timing and play. Look at the chamber.
You can tell a lot just by looking at the gun and checking general condition. Are the screws all boogered up from someone taking it apart. Nicks or dings on the muzzle are bad. Rust? Scratches? If it is a rifle I look to see if the stock has any cracks in the wood anywhere. Any big scratches, I don't mind sanding and oiling a stock depending on the wood and type of finish on the original gun. Old Remingtons used a hard plastic finish which if it isn't in good shape is tough/impossible to get off the gun. "Bowling Pin Finish" or something like that was how it was marketed.
Pull the bolt on bolt actions so I can see down the bore.
Usually don't field strip the gun if it looks good visually and the slide works OK. Pretty easy to see the condition without taking the slide off a pistol.
Revolvers I will check cylinder timing and play. Look at the chamber.
You can tell a lot just by looking at the gun and checking general condition. Are the screws all boogered up from someone taking it apart. Nicks or dings on the muzzle are bad. Rust? Scratches? If it is a rifle I look to see if the stock has any cracks in the wood anywhere. Any big scratches, I don't mind sanding and oiling a stock depending on the wood and type of finish on the original gun. Old Remingtons used a hard plastic finish which if it isn't in good shape is tough/impossible to get off the gun. "Bowling Pin Finish" or something like that was how it was marketed.
Unlike many who have posted I very much like buying used firearms. Let someone else take the gun store markup bite before I get it. Have made some good to great deals buying used. I function check during the transfer and make sure all functions/features work and nothing looks out of sorts. Once home I'll field strip it and do a normal cleaning with it.
I know you are supposed to have a gunsmith check your used guns before you fire them. I've never done that. Most of the used guns I've bought are revolvers (quite a few through the years), a couple rifles, and a CPO SIG and a non-CPO SIG. Other than those two SIGs I can't think of any autos I bought used. I've always function checked them (and did the Jim March's revolver check on all of the revolvers), then I just disassemble them for cleaning (and no further) before shooting them. If they looked bad enough that I wouldn't shoot them without a visit to the gunsmith (or felt bad enough on the function check) I wouldn't buy them. I know that I was living dangerously, and now most of my guns are bought new, and since I buy fewer used guns these days, I probably will have a smith check out my next used gun (with police trade-ins and CPO guns being an exception). Of course, that will remove most or all of the price incentive to buying used, so all my future purchases will be new, CPO, police trade-ins or classics that can't be had new.
Bob Wright
New member
First of all, I know I'm in the wrong forum since I'm a six gun man. Aside from from that situation, I offer my practice.
I examine the overall appearance of the gun as to its general condition, etc. And do a function check checking cocking, trigger release, and safety concerns.
Now, the condition and price have to match. A gun is disrepair should have a price attractive enough to make buying the gun worthwhile. Many times a rough looking gun is a good start on a project gun if the price is right. Barrels can be had, as can cylinders and innards. Should the gun be an off brand with parts not available, or not adaptable from another brand, then of course, leave it alone. Many parts from Hawes or Uberti will work with other brand guns.
So its all in what you might be looking for.
I bought this .357 Magnum Ruger Three Screw Blackhawk, and its mate that had the 6 1/2" barrel, for $200 each from an individual answering an ad in the newspaper. Both guns were well used, the grips on one slightly loose in the fit. But they were intended as project guns, and $200 was a reasonable price to me:
I removed the transfer bar action, had it converted to .44 Special, case hardened by Doug Turnbull, had as steel grip frame fitted, and walnut stocks by CaryC. It was my carry gun for awhile:
This was the mate to that Ruger, its still in the "considering" stage, but has had the aluminum parts replaced with steel, and the transfer bar action replaced:
Bob Wright
Bob Wright
I examine the overall appearance of the gun as to its general condition, etc. And do a function check checking cocking, trigger release, and safety concerns.
Now, the condition and price have to match. A gun is disrepair should have a price attractive enough to make buying the gun worthwhile. Many times a rough looking gun is a good start on a project gun if the price is right. Barrels can be had, as can cylinders and innards. Should the gun be an off brand with parts not available, or not adaptable from another brand, then of course, leave it alone. Many parts from Hawes or Uberti will work with other brand guns.
So its all in what you might be looking for.
I bought this .357 Magnum Ruger Three Screw Blackhawk, and its mate that had the 6 1/2" barrel, for $200 each from an individual answering an ad in the newspaper. Both guns were well used, the grips on one slightly loose in the fit. But they were intended as project guns, and $200 was a reasonable price to me:
I removed the transfer bar action, had it converted to .44 Special, case hardened by Doug Turnbull, had as steel grip frame fitted, and walnut stocks by CaryC. It was my carry gun for awhile:
This was the mate to that Ruger, its still in the "considering" stage, but has had the aluminum parts replaced with steel, and the transfer bar action replaced:
Bob Wright
Bob Wright
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Well, thread comes at an interesting time...
just bought a Star M45, blued.
Its in mediocre shape, pretty worn on the outside,
hardly used on the inside...
Long story short, while sitting at the counter talking
about it with the salesguy, pointed out some of the features
of the Stars while working the deal...then I asked,
"Have you ever seen it taken down?" He said "No",
"It's really easy, quicker than a 1911, wanna see?"
"Sure"
Removed the mag, lined up the marks, popped the pin out.
Slipped the guiderod/recoil spring out, pulled the barrel
out of the slide, and there it was, field stripped in less than 5 secs.
He handed me a shop towel and I cleaned all the old oil & gunk off,
checked out the inside of the barrel & other guts, which were
pretty dirty, like someone had fired 2-3 boxes thru it,
then never cleaned it afterwards...
He then checked the computer for what they had in it,
and cut me a deal which made the pawn shop some money,
and me Happy
Then informed him if he ever got another in, what mags would
also fit it (S&W 45xx series), which mags would fit the M43/40,
which fit the M30 (S&W 59xx series), which fit the M243 (59xx),
and what I'd found out about the Megastar
Got it home, cleaned it up, inspected, function tested with
Snap Caps, now waiting on a good range day to go put it
thru it's paces. The finish is pretty much shot...looks like
it rode in a CC holster a lot, and was cased most of the time.
Gives me a great excuse to try out the local Cerakote guy
Normally I'd just Parkerize it and use it as a second for my
Stainless M45...but something in me is calling out for some
color...maybe Tennessee Vols Orange & White?
Maybe just Camo Blue & Brass for the controls??
Decisions, Decisions...
just bought a Star M45, blued.
Its in mediocre shape, pretty worn on the outside,
hardly used on the inside...
Long story short, while sitting at the counter talking
about it with the salesguy, pointed out some of the features
of the Stars while working the deal...then I asked,
"Have you ever seen it taken down?" He said "No",
"It's really easy, quicker than a 1911, wanna see?"
"Sure"
Removed the mag, lined up the marks, popped the pin out.
Slipped the guiderod/recoil spring out, pulled the barrel
out of the slide, and there it was, field stripped in less than 5 secs.
He handed me a shop towel and I cleaned all the old oil & gunk off,
checked out the inside of the barrel & other guts, which were
pretty dirty, like someone had fired 2-3 boxes thru it,
then never cleaned it afterwards...
He then checked the computer for what they had in it,
and cut me a deal which made the pawn shop some money,
and me Happy
Then informed him if he ever got another in, what mags would
also fit it (S&W 45xx series), which mags would fit the M43/40,
which fit the M30 (S&W 59xx series), which fit the M243 (59xx),
and what I'd found out about the Megastar
Got it home, cleaned it up, inspected, function tested with
Snap Caps, now waiting on a good range day to go put it
thru it's paces. The finish is pretty much shot...looks like
it rode in a CC holster a lot, and was cased most of the time.
Gives me a great excuse to try out the local Cerakote guy
Normally I'd just Parkerize it and use it as a second for my
Stainless M45...but something in me is calling out for some
color...maybe Tennessee Vols Orange & White?
Maybe just Camo Blue & Brass for the controls??
Decisions, Decisions...
I posted this poll in response to an incident I read in which a shooter purchased a used pistol, took it to a match and ended up having an unintentional discharge (pistol fired without a finger on the trigger) which caused an injury.
The pistol had been modified by the previous user, resulting in an unsafe condition.
A number of persons responded that the shooter should have had the gun checked out by a qualified gunsmith. I was curious to know how many people actually do.
At this point, with over 100 responses, less than 2% of the responses indicated that they would have a qualified gunsmith check out a pistol that was purchased used. That's actually higher than what I expected it to be.
The pistol had been modified by the previous user, resulting in an unsafe condition.
A number of persons responded that the shooter should have had the gun checked out by a qualified gunsmith. I was curious to know how many people actually do.
At this point, with over 100 responses, less than 2% of the responses indicated that they would have a qualified gunsmith check out a pistol that was purchased used. That's actually higher than what I expected it to be.
One would hope that most of the folks buying used,
would properly function test them and make certain
that the safeties worked before hitting the range...
and moreso, make certain that they never pointed the
pistol in an unsafe direction at any time.
Rule #1, don't point a firearm at anything you don't wish to destroy.
Although, from testing Lorcin's years ago, Never trust a safety totally.
(You can put it on SAFE and still fire them with enough finger pressure)
Best safety is the one between your ears.
would properly function test them and make certain
that the safeties worked before hitting the range...
and moreso, make certain that they never pointed the
pistol in an unsafe direction at any time.
Rule #1, don't point a firearm at anything you don't wish to destroy.
Although, from testing Lorcin's years ago, Never trust a safety totally.
(You can put it on SAFE and still fire them with enough finger pressure)
Best safety is the one between your ears.
Aguila Blanca
Staff
I remember the incident to which you refer. What I don't remember is whether or not I voted in the poll or, if I did, what I might have voted. I know that I've never taken a new-to-me firearm to a gunsmith to be checked out. I also know that, although I generally run any newly-acquired firearm through the basic safety checks, I have probably even skipped that on more than one occasion.JohnKSa said:
And, on the other hand, I very much recall at least two new-to-me firearms that I detail stripped upon bringing them home, and both revealed problems. One was a function problem, that took some time (but not money or outside assistance) to figure out and correct. The other was some non-factory machine work to the slide that wasn't visible until the slide had been removed from the frame. It didn't make the gun unsafe, but it negatively affected my intentons for the gun to the point that it sat untouched until I was able to procure a matching, unmolested slide & barrel assembly.
But ... in the case that prompted the poll, there's another factor. The buyer had not had the gun checked out, and apparently wasn't sufficiently qualified on that make/model to perform the checks, but the competition at which the injury happened wasn't the first time the new owner had fired the gun. It had been fired, and multiple issues had been encountered. IIRC, to the point that the new buyer contacted the seller, who gave assurances that he had never encountered any problems (which, in retrospect, was very likely a bald-faced lie). One way of "inspecting" a new gun is to test fire it under controlled conditions. Multiple malfunctions using standard, factory ammunition would, to me, be as much or more of an indication that something's amiss than failing a safety check that doesn't involve having even a dummy round in the gun. In that instance, it appears some red flags were overlooked.
I was lucky on my first used pistol purchase a few years ago. I asked the sales guy at LGS to help pick the best out of six used S&W pistols. He did a function check of all and decided on a Model 469 in great shape. I learned from my first and researched buying used handguns. I now have a S&W 5906 , Model 65 revolver and sold a Model 36
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Loosedhorse
Moderator
"What do you do when you buy a used gun?"
Same thing I do when I buy a new gun. I give it a once-over at the store. For a semi-auto (for example), that would include:
--Do all the safeties work? Does the cocked hammer NOT go forward if I push it, or (for hammer or striker) if I give the gun a jolt?
--Does the slide lock open on an empty mag (if designed to do so)?
--Does the hammer fall properly when the trigger is pulled? Does the mag fall out smoothly when released (if designed to do so)?
If it fails any of those, I don't buy it.
Once it's home, I'll give it a more thorough going over, as part of a clean-and-oil. If that inspection reveals anything I'm unsure of, I delve deeper or (when it's a gun model I don't know well) take it to my gunsmith.
I recently bought a new alloy-framed, commander-sized 1911 and didn't notice until I got it home that the manual safety was a bit mushy (too easy to move on and off). I stripped it and found that the plunger spring was kinked, and that the rear opening of the tube was out-of-round. Perhaps the misshaped opening caused the assembler to snag and bend the spring; and then he/she just stuffed it on in, bent spring and all.
Now I could have taken the gun back to the store, or shipped it to the factory for warranty repair, or even taken it to my gunsmith. But it seemed simpler (as I had the tool and a spare spring) to just gently round the opening, replace the spring, and marvel at how much more positive the safety was.
Or perhaps many gun-owners don't know a gunsmith, and so if they did notice a problem they would take the gun back to the shop--or to a knowledgeable friend--first and see what satisfaction they could get there.
Same thing I do when I buy a new gun. I give it a once-over at the store. For a semi-auto (for example), that would include:
--Do all the safeties work? Does the cocked hammer NOT go forward if I push it, or (for hammer or striker) if I give the gun a jolt?
--Does the slide lock open on an empty mag (if designed to do so)?
--Does the hammer fall properly when the trigger is pulled? Does the mag fall out smoothly when released (if designed to do so)?
If it fails any of those, I don't buy it.
Once it's home, I'll give it a more thorough going over, as part of a clean-and-oil. If that inspection reveals anything I'm unsure of, I delve deeper or (when it's a gun model I don't know well) take it to my gunsmith.
I recently bought a new alloy-framed, commander-sized 1911 and didn't notice until I got it home that the manual safety was a bit mushy (too easy to move on and off). I stripped it and found that the plunger spring was kinked, and that the rear opening of the tube was out-of-round. Perhaps the misshaped opening caused the assembler to snag and bend the spring; and then he/she just stuffed it on in, bent spring and all.
Now I could have taken the gun back to the store, or shipped it to the factory for warranty repair, or even taken it to my gunsmith. But it seemed simpler (as I had the tool and a spare spring) to just gently round the opening, replace the spring, and marvel at how much more positive the safety was.
I viewed a video made by the victim of what I assume is the same incident. She stated that the sear of her M&P had been "modified" enough to make the "internal safety" inoperative. That's hard to envision as M&Ps have a plunger that blocks the striker unless the trigger is pressed (that is, the safety is deactivated not by the sear but by the trigger bar moving backward).
Well, perhaps many people take a step-wise approach: they take the gun to a smith if they notice something when the give it a detailed looking-over.
Or perhaps many gun-owners don't know a gunsmith, and so if they did notice a problem they would take the gun back to the shop--or to a knowledgeable friend--first and see what satisfaction they could get there.