what caused these dings on my stock?

[Mr.Guido]

I guess i forgot to say that if you don't hear the creaking in either case above, it is probably the sound of the trigger blade rubbing the shear bar. you can simply smooth out the mating surfaces with a stone. I find that the fish hook sharpeners sold at walmart work about as good as anything.

 

[Captchee]

I would agree that now is a good time to remove the locks . Check them over just as Guido stated . Look at the inside of the lock plate around where the tumbler turns , around the main spring and around the sear for scratches. If there is any , that means the part is dragging . Let me also say that its not uncommon to find such marks on CVA locks . The tolerances are low and the locks often are soft . Its not uncommon to find them even when brand new .
I would also add that if the creaking sound isn’t there with the lock out . Your probably going to find that the sound is coming from the parts rubbing inside the lock mortise.

As was pointed out . It does appear the locks have Been over tightened at one time or another. When you put it back together , the bolt should be snug , NOT really heavily tightened down . As I said before if you tighten that rear bolt down to tight you will warp the lock plate

Guido also makes a good point about the musket caps . Myself I have never seen a CVA SXS that came with musket nipples . All the ones I have seen came with a standard #11 nipple . So I have to wonder why those are there . Same goes with the flash cups .
So Guido could very well be dead on with his reasoning that the blowback could be from the musket nipples

 

[BerdanSS]

Mr.Guido

Believe me sir when I say pulling any harder on the hammers without the triggers pulled would result in breaking them....

I did try though, as advised to hold the trigger back. And yes pulling the triggers at full cock, holding them down then pulling the hammers back they will contact the stock. The split second blowback of the hammers with the trigger still held after firing makes complete sense to me.

The flash cups were on it when I got it. I've never used them before on any other rifle of mine, and don't really care for the look of them. I originally took them off, but when I had the nipples replaced, I had the guy put them back on for the heck of it. I've got some inletting black, I'll take them off and see what happens.

Every picture of these I see (except the .58 caliber ones.) are #11s. Should I get #11 nipples and swap out the muskets? It had musket nipples on it when my wife bought it for me, They were kinda flatted out from what looked like dry firing which is why I got new ones.

 

[Hawg]

FWIW my Pedersoli 12 gauge blows the hammers back to half cock with 100 grains of powder and a .69 patched ball.

 

[Pahoo]

Entirely your Call !!!

Should I get #11 nipples and swap out the muskets?

That is entirely a matter of choice. If you have an ignition problem with the 11's, then go back to the Muskets. Flash cups are also a matter of personal choice. If you understand their function, You might see the benefit. We use to see these all the time but only on drum & nipple. Snails don't need them. One "possible" problem, I might see, is fitting a musket primer, inside a small flash cup. .....

Be Safe !!!

 

[noelf2]

The flash cups were added because someone found out the hard way that musket caps will blow over and burn your wrist. Don't ask me how I know. I would definitely go back to 11 nipples, ones with vent holes to stop the blowback.

 

[Mr.Guido]

Believe me sir when I say pulling any harder on the hammers without the triggers pulled would result in breaking them....

I did try though, as advised to hold the trigger back. And yes pulling the triggers at full cock, holding them down then pulling the hammers back they will contact the stock.

This statement seems a bit disconcerting to me because as I am typing this, I am holding in my other hand a left hand lock from a CVA Express rifle. I can see no mechanism that would explain this increase in resistance other than the slight effect of the sear spring. Please post a picture of the inside of your fully cocked lock for comparison purposes and we can walk through setting the creep as well as looking for possible anomalies.




Also, hold the left lock in place with one hand and having the right lock removed, put the left lock in the half cock position and pull the front trigger forward. this is what you should see from the right side. Notice the ample clearance between the sear bar and the hole through the stock.

 

[DD4lifeusmc]

dings

maybe already answered didn't read each reply post.
Most likely the hammer is being blown back during firing.
It happens.
I doubt you are doing it while cocking, you would likely notice it.
The blow back can be caused by a weak hammer spring, over charging and / or
to big a flash hole in the nipple.
Just my guess!