Sringfield 1911 sharp edges...
- Thread starter gunhound
- Start date
i bought one of those Springfield loaded models about 6 months ago. It had more sharp edges than any gun I have ever handled...
The slide serrations, thumb safety, and slide release would literally draw blood.
The gun jammed at least 2 times out of every box of ammo. I sent it back to Springfield TWICE and they could never solve this problem.
In complete despair, I sold the dang thing and bought a Kimber. I will never buy another SA product....
Hopefully you will have better luck than I. If your gun functions ok, I would send it to somebody like Wilson's and get it dehorned before you lose a finger.... But I would check it out thoroughly for reliability before I put a penny in getting it dehorned.
The slide serrations, thumb safety, and slide release would literally draw blood.
The gun jammed at least 2 times out of every box of ammo. I sent it back to Springfield TWICE and they could never solve this problem.
In complete despair, I sold the dang thing and bought a Kimber. I will never buy another SA product....
Hopefully you will have better luck than I. If your gun functions ok, I would send it to somebody like Wilson's and get it dehorned before you lose a finger.... But I would check it out thoroughly for reliability before I put a penny in getting it dehorned.
F
faiello5
Guest
I had Brian Bilby (a 1911 smith) dehorn and bead blast my stainless SA 1911 in 9mm because I didn't like the sharp edges or the polished flats. I also had him fit a match bushing and stipple the front strap. His prices are very reasonable and his work is outstanding. He can be reached at http://www.1911custom.com
One caveat on your gun: the slide stop and thumb safety are hardchromed and can't be de-horned and bead blasted in their present condition. I am sending mine to Metaloy to be stripped, de-horned and re-hard chromed in a matte finish to match the gun. I have heard good things about Steve at Metaloy and his prices are also very reasonable. Good luck.
Regards,
Frank
One caveat on your gun: the slide stop and thumb safety are hardchromed and can't be de-horned and bead blasted in their present condition. I am sending mine to Metaloy to be stripped, de-horned and re-hard chromed in a matte finish to match the gun. I have heard good things about Steve at Metaloy and his prices are also very reasonable. Good luck.
Regards,
Frank
George Hill
Staff Alumnus
You want sharp, get a SPYDERCO
The edges on a Springfield are not as sharp as you folks are letting on.
The edges are square, yes, but not sharp.
I myself have carried a 1911A1 stock, concealed, IWB, Mexican, tucked etc - with ZERO problems... No cuts. No Tears. No blood. Not even a scratch.
If one is as soft as to find the Springfield too harsh - I suggest some work in the fields to toughen up those danty pattycakes.
I know another TFLer who carries his 1911 concealed and tucked... He doesnt have any torn clothes either.
Just because the Springfield isnt rounded out like a proctology instrament, doesnt mean its sharp.
The Springfield 1911A1 is the best 1911 on the market right now. Bar None. Kimbers? Sure they are pretty good... And once you get rid of the MIM parts and the plastic parts... Then they become great pistols.
But its much cheaper to take a Springfield to a smith and have him do a Dehorn and a trigger job.
Please.
Next we will hear that METAL IS TOO HEAVY!
The edges on a Springfield are not as sharp as you folks are letting on.
The edges are square, yes, but not sharp.
I myself have carried a 1911A1 stock, concealed, IWB, Mexican, tucked etc - with ZERO problems... No cuts. No Tears. No blood. Not even a scratch.
If one is as soft as to find the Springfield too harsh - I suggest some work in the fields to toughen up those danty pattycakes.
I know another TFLer who carries his 1911 concealed and tucked... He doesnt have any torn clothes either.
Just because the Springfield isnt rounded out like a proctology instrament, doesnt mean its sharp.
The Springfield 1911A1 is the best 1911 on the market right now. Bar None. Kimbers? Sure they are pretty good... And once you get rid of the MIM parts and the plastic parts... Then they become great pistols.
But its much cheaper to take a Springfield to a smith and have him do a Dehorn and a trigger job.
Please.
Next we will hear that METAL IS TOO HEAVY!
Maybe I got the only bad Springfield ever made, but mine really was sharp, not just square.
Never had that problem with Colt, Kimber, or Wilson's.
And I dont think you should be required to have a bunch of calluses on your hands to avoid being scratched up by a gun that cost $600.
Never had that problem with Colt, Kimber, or Wilson's.
And I dont think you should be required to have a bunch of calluses on your hands to avoid being scratched up by a gun that cost $600.
George Hill (administrator)
In reply to your response:
"The edges on a Springfield are not as sharp as you folks are letting on. The edges are square, yes, but not sharp.
I myself have carried a 1911A1 stock, concealed, IWB, Mexican, tucked etc - with ZERO problems... No cuts. No Tears. No blood. Not even a scratch.If one is as soft as to find the Springfield too harsh - I suggest some work in the
fields to toughen up those danty pattycakes."
FYI, I spent many a hard day as a ranch hand, and quite a few years in the Infantry- hands are definitely up to the task. I find it humorous though that because the weapon YOU OWN is of perfection surpassed by nothing, and being that since I bought a Springfield 1911 that it must be my imagination that it could have sharp edges. Please! I might not be an author of a gun rag, nor an expert by some definition, but I can say I have actively handled firearms of many types for over fifteen years, and yet have I encountered one that has such "SHARP" if not squared edges.
I am not trying to get in a pissing match with you as this is the best forum, but I feel you should do more research or question asking before responding with an immature response.
I don't know how else to prove what I say, but if asking a question on your board is going to result in a degrading or humiliating response, then I guess I will have to try and find a second best. I feel for those who don't have a lot of firearm experience and try asking for the experience of others, just to be slammed by a posting such as yours. Oh well, someone has to troll- Regards, Gunhound
In reply to your response:
"The edges on a Springfield are not as sharp as you folks are letting on. The edges are square, yes, but not sharp.
I myself have carried a 1911A1 stock, concealed, IWB, Mexican, tucked etc - with ZERO problems... No cuts. No Tears. No blood. Not even a scratch.If one is as soft as to find the Springfield too harsh - I suggest some work in the
fields to toughen up those danty pattycakes."
FYI, I spent many a hard day as a ranch hand, and quite a few years in the Infantry- hands are definitely up to the task. I find it humorous though that because the weapon YOU OWN is of perfection surpassed by nothing, and being that since I bought a Springfield 1911 that it must be my imagination that it could have sharp edges. Please! I might not be an author of a gun rag, nor an expert by some definition, but I can say I have actively handled firearms of many types for over fifteen years, and yet have I encountered one that has such "SHARP" if not squared edges.
I am not trying to get in a pissing match with you as this is the best forum, but I feel you should do more research or question asking before responding with an immature response.
I don't know how else to prove what I say, but if asking a question on your board is going to result in a degrading or humiliating response, then I guess I will have to try and find a second best. I feel for those who don't have a lot of firearm experience and try asking for the experience of others, just to be slammed by a posting such as yours. Oh well, someone has to troll- Regards, Gunhound
I had mine dehorned by a local smith for about $30.
I bought this Springfield "Loaded" after my Kimber Pro-Carry kept malfunctioning even after an expensive trip to the factory.
So far, the Springfield has not malfunctioned. It is certainly not quite as smooth or accurate as the Kimber, but it is definitely sturdier and more reliable of the two.
Skorzeny
I bought this Springfield "Loaded" after my Kimber Pro-Carry kept malfunctioning even after an expensive trip to the factory.
So far, the Springfield has not malfunctioned. It is certainly not quite as smooth or accurate as the Kimber, but it is definitely sturdier and more reliable of the two.
Skorzeny
Dr45ACP, I had the same experiance. But I sent it back four times, and they bought it back from me. I then bought a Kimber, and was amazed how much smoother and more comfortable it was. George, SA agreed about the thumb saftety and slide release on mine as being too sharp, and replaced them, so I guess they might have had a bad run on these parts.
Gunhound: Come on man, have a chill pill. (And please take a look at the number of posts George has put in here.)
My Springfield must be just like George's. Sharp, but not too sharp. My hands are pretty tough (jewelry work full-time), but I don't think callouses are clouding my judgement. Somehow the gun feels 'right' to me--crisp and precise.
I know kimbers are good pistols, but I can't stand their version of 'dehorning'--looks like someone got carried away at the buffing wheel and then tried to hide it with a bead-blasting.
Arent things like safeties, slide serrations, and slide releases SUPPOSED to be somewhat sharp? (I.E. sharply textured, so one can get a good purchase on them when needed.)
Well, to each his own, I guess...best, weegee.
My Springfield must be just like George's. Sharp, but not too sharp. My hands are pretty tough (jewelry work full-time), but I don't think callouses are clouding my judgement. Somehow the gun feels 'right' to me--crisp and precise.
I know kimbers are good pistols, but I can't stand their version of 'dehorning'--looks like someone got carried away at the buffing wheel and then tried to hide it with a bead-blasting.
Arent things like safeties, slide serrations, and slide releases SUPPOSED to be somewhat sharp? (I.E. sharply textured, so one can get a good purchase on them when needed.)
Well, to each his own, I guess...best, weegee.
Weegee: Honestly, not looking for conflict (Have plenty at work). Probably read into it wrong- I was merely asking a simple question from fellow shooters and got what seemed like an insulting response which I felt inclined to respond. Granted I have less than ten postings on this board and GH has almost 7k, (how about a handcount- just kiddin) but that shouldn't matter. I was just looking for information- I don't want to be "banned" for speaking my opinion, so I apologize for any apparent problem on my part that may have occurred from me asking for feedback. Gunhound
Eric of IN
New member
Gunhound, you should have no fears about being banned for arguing with George. Now if you start calling his ancestry into question, or things like that, then you start to get e-mail.
My SA 1911 had a burr on the front of the dust cover, but the slide serrations are merely square. I prefer them that way, because it gives more grip when racking the slide, especially with wet hands. If you do want to dehorn the gun, make sure it's done lightly.
Eric
My SA 1911 had a burr on the front of the dust cover, but the slide serrations are merely square. I prefer them that way, because it gives more grip when racking the slide, especially with wet hands. If you do want to dehorn the gun, make sure it's done lightly.
Eric
Suggest dismantling gun and 'melting' all bothersome sharp edges with an Arkansas stone, crocus cloth, file, steel wool.
Start with file (or stone if you're scared) and polish, polish, polish. then crocus or emery, then finish with steel wool.
It will require touching up the blue (if stainless you're done!).
REMEMBER -- you can ALWAYS take more off, but you can't put it back.
Work VERY SLOWLY and stop often to check your work.
My 1911 has NO edges; feels marvelous in my hands, sensuosly smooth AND then I NP3'ed it. Better than you might ever imagine....
You don't have to put up with sharp edges...
Start with file (or stone if you're scared) and polish, polish, polish. then crocus or emery, then finish with steel wool.
It will require touching up the blue (if stainless you're done!).
REMEMBER -- you can ALWAYS take more off, but you can't put it back.
Work VERY SLOWLY and stop often to check your work.
My 1911 has NO edges; feels marvelous in my hands, sensuosly smooth AND then I NP3'ed it. Better than you might ever imagine....
You don't have to put up with sharp edges...
If you think these are contentious answers they ya'll need to wander over to art of the rifle and watch us argue about AR15s.
I'm the one George mentioned that carries a SA tucked under my shirt in a belly band. I don't really find the gun that sharp, the one area that I did file down was the very tip of the butt. It was starting to rub holes in my shirts while carrying IWB. My Wife made me do that because she refused to buy me any more shirts. After a few minutes of filing there hasn't been any problems.
I'm planning on sending my gun back to Springfield soon, I only have one complaint about the it. It doesn't care for my favorite round, the 230 gr. HydroShok. They said that they would fix it, I'm debating having a carry bevel done while it is there just for the heck of it. I haven't decided yet if I will do so or not.
I'm the one George mentioned that carries a SA tucked under my shirt in a belly band. I don't really find the gun that sharp, the one area that I did file down was the very tip of the butt. It was starting to rub holes in my shirts while carrying IWB. My Wife made me do that because she refused to buy me any more shirts.
After a few minutes of filing there hasn't been any problems.I'm planning on sending my gun back to Springfield soon, I only have one complaint about the it. It doesn't care for my favorite round, the 230 gr. HydroShok. They said that they would fix it, I'm debating having a carry bevel done while it is there just for the heck of it. I haven't decided yet if I will do so or not.
Steve Smith
New member
George Hill and I seem to be agreeing on a lot of things these days. I have several SA products, a couple of them pistols. My carry piece is a "loaded" Champion. sure it has very squared edges, but I like it..especially on the cocking serrations. You'll never fumble with the slide with the sure grip that the SA serrations provide. For the front end, if it's stainless, just take a fine file to it, just to take the edge off a little. I have seen others fumble with the slides of dehorned models.
I like my pistols with horns, thank you.
I like my pistols with horns, thank you.
Gopher .45
New member
Don't like sharp edges....dull wit maybe?
I don't like sharp edges either. I have a Colt Combat Commander XS that came with all very sharp edges, whether they were right angled or the serrations on the slide that would systematically shave a layer of skin off my thumb (riding the safety) with each recoil. I can live with the blood, but the gun did some nasty things to my very nice Milt Sparks Versa Max II holster. Some light filing and plenty of 320, 400, and 600 grit sandpaper, as well as a little Flitz polish and my XS is now quite comfortable and I no longer find leather shavings in my pants after doing drills from the holster. Small wounds on my hands will heal, but my holster wasn't regenerating any new hide.
Funny thing, my 1918 army issue Colt .45 ACP doesn't have sharp edges like my new Colt and the old Colt is in original condition. Go figure. Me thinks Colt decided to save some money in their time of financial need and give up on dehorning which is a feature advertised for their XS models.
I don't like sharp edges either. I have a Colt Combat Commander XS that came with all very sharp edges, whether they were right angled or the serrations on the slide that would systematically shave a layer of skin off my thumb (riding the safety) with each recoil. I can live with the blood, but the gun did some nasty things to my very nice Milt Sparks Versa Max II holster. Some light filing and plenty of 320, 400, and 600 grit sandpaper, as well as a little Flitz polish and my XS is now quite comfortable and I no longer find leather shavings in my pants after doing drills from the holster. Small wounds on my hands will heal, but my holster wasn't regenerating any new hide.
Funny thing, my 1918 army issue Colt .45 ACP doesn't have sharp edges like my new Colt and the old Colt is in original condition. Go figure. Me thinks Colt decided to save some money in their time of financial need and give up on dehorning which is a feature advertised for their XS models.