I'm looking at a Sig 220, used. I read alot of positive comments in the search I did here. I'm looking at it for a daily duty pistol. Any long term users have any trouble with these? I've seen a couple on-line that had what appeared to be 10 round mags. Are these after market? Last question, a couple of well used 220's I've looked at, had what I considered sloppy slide to frame fit. Others, less used, were tight. Does the 220's aluminum frame hold up to alot of shooting? Thanks. Regards 18DAI.
Sig 220 pros/cons
- Thread starter 18DAI
- Start date
I have heard that 220's do get sloppy slides after awhile. I've also heard you can avoid this by using some sort of grease on the slide rails rather than oil. In fact I think they may come with a grease packet when bought new. My sigpro did anyway. I have not heard of this causing any problem however and plan on getting a 220 as soon as I pay off my Kimber. I like the grip and triggers on Sigs myself as they dont get much better. Factory capacity 220 mags hold 8. Good luck
I have a Sig 220 Carry Equinox. It's very accurate, reliable as anything I've owned, and is just a blast to shoot. I have targets in my shop that I can't throw away because the groups are excellent (for me, that is). Go to Sigforum and those guys will talk you to death about how good they are....and I'm convinced they are correct. Yes, they are durable, dependable, and beautifully constructed....but at a price.
I had a bad experience with my Sig 220
I ordered it with night sights and got Meprolites. Either the sights were out of spec, or the front dovetail was damaged during installation but for whatever reason the front sight blade shook loose after only a couple of months.
The 220 rusted easily. The finish leaves something to be desired if you live in a humid area like where I live.
The Sig is also very big for a 8+1 capacity .45 ACP. It also has a very high bore axis.
I found the de-cocker useless, and yes the guns action was always on the sloppy side. On the bright side of things the gun was very reliable and I think it had alot to do with the loose tolerences.
For the money I would now choose a 1911A1 instead of a Sig 220. No offense to Sig owners, I am very aware that the 220 I had could have been a lemon. But between the rusting and sight issues I pretty much gave up on that gun and sold it. Now, my Stainless P230, now that was an awesome gun!! I still regret selling it to this day.
I ordered it with night sights and got Meprolites. Either the sights were out of spec, or the front dovetail was damaged during installation but for whatever reason the front sight blade shook loose after only a couple of months.
The 220 rusted easily. The finish leaves something to be desired if you live in a humid area like where I live.
The Sig is also very big for a 8+1 capacity .45 ACP. It also has a very high bore axis.
I found the de-cocker useless, and yes the guns action was always on the sloppy side. On the bright side of things the gun was very reliable and I think it had alot to do with the loose tolerences.
For the money I would now choose a 1911A1 instead of a Sig 220. No offense to Sig owners, I am very aware that the 220 I had could have been a lemon. But between the rusting and sight issues I pretty much gave up on that gun and sold it. Now, my Stainless P230, now that was an awesome gun!! I still regret selling it to this day.
I love my 220. Its actually going to be my duty gun if I get accepted to the Austin Police academy. The slide fit on my 220 is very solid and the controls are crisp. There are 8 and 10 round mags offered from the factory. Some older mags are 7 rounders.
My only complaint is the Nitron finish seems to wear easily, but I plan to have my slide satin nickeled anyway. Also the newer ones are stainless steel under the Nitron so rust isn't an issue.
My only complaint is the Nitron finish seems to wear easily, but I plan to have my slide satin nickeled anyway. Also the newer ones are stainless steel under the Nitron so rust isn't an issue.
chris in va
New member
Don't have many rounds through it, but my mid-90's 220 has been flawless in operation after a year or so. I bought it used for $450. The rear sight was over to the left quite a bit and had to get it pushed, and until I realized this my shots were pretty vague.
The other guys are right though, it's a fairly large gun and not that easy to conceal. Mine has the factory 7rd mag but you can get an 8rd for it. Finish is wearing off some, but it gives it character.
I wouldn't call mine loose really. I don't think you want a 'combat' firearm too tight anyway...
The other guys are right though, it's a fairly large gun and not that easy to conceal. Mine has the factory 7rd mag but you can get an 8rd for it. Finish is wearing off some, but it gives it character.
I wouldn't call mine loose really. I don't think you want a 'combat' firearm too tight anyway...
My CQB is as tight as a .... and 100% reliable. So is my P226 Sport Srock. So is my PC 5906. So was my PC 952-2.
Tightness has nothing to do with reliability. An improperly fitted 'tight' gun will malfunction, but a well fitted "tight" gun will be just as reliable and will wear better.
Tightness has nothing to do with reliability. An improperly fitted 'tight' gun will malfunction, but a well fitted "tight" gun will be just as reliable and will wear better.
Older Sigs with the stamped "non stainless" slides dont have a Nitron finish they are actually blued. The appearance of blueing depends on how the metal is treated before the finish is applied(steel in the "white") if the metal is polished and then blued the blueing will be a shiny gloss if the metal is bead blasted (or otherwise blasted with other materials) the outside of the steel will become dull and when the blueing is applied it will be dull also. This gives the appearance of a "super-duper" matte finish but in reality is just standard blueing this is what the older Sigs used to ship with.
http://www.sigarms.com/Products/ProductServices.aspx
On Sigs webpage its the 9th service down Reblue carbon steel slide
Esquire M Busterbury
Moderator
Anyone like to comment on what would be the optimal grease for the job? (such as the high temp bearing grease courtesy of auto zone that I use on the 1911?) I was almost wanting to use some of my m4's 'Militec1', think it'd be worthwhile?
And finally, after having one for 3 days, my only problem is that it seems overbuilt when compared to my SA 1911...almost rugerishly overbuilt.
And finally, after having one for 3 days, my only problem is that it seems overbuilt when compared to my SA 1911...almost rugerishly overbuilt.
As far as concealing, when you compare a full size 220 to a 1911 commander side by side, they are the same width in the slide and grips and almost the same barrel length, with the 1911 being quite a bit longer due to the grip safety beaver tail. I think the 220 would be easier to conceal than a commander 1911 and also easier than a compact sig like the 229 due to the overall width being much narrower than the 229. The 220 carry would be even slightly easier with .5" shorter barrel than the full size.
SIGLOCKAUR
New member
The older Sigs made of carbon steel had some rust issues. All new Sigs are made with a stainless steel slide (the black finish is usually Nitron) and except for all stainless models alloy frames. So rust is no longer an issue. None of my 5 Sigs has ever not feed, fired, and ejected. And all are accurate. If the grip is a little large for you you can get a short trigger installed. All in all probably my favorite handguns.
As far as 1911's go I've had 6-7. Of that two worked out of the box and the rest needed work. In fact the Kimbers I had (external extractor models) never could get running right. 1911's can be reliable. But their seems to be a greater chance for problems out of the box than aany other quality firearm. Having said that if you want the 1911 style cocked and locked set up Sig now makes a SAO version of the 220. I would buy the Sig in a heartbeat.
As to the frames not being tight I've only had that experience with a Certified Pre-Owned 229R 9mm I just bought. It concerned me a bit at first until I went over to the Sig forum and did some research. The slides vary alot in the amount of play in the slide to frame fit. It does not effect accuracy or reliablity at all. Mine CPO has 700 rounds through it now that I've fired accurate and reliable as the rest of my Sigs. . Unless the gun is damaged along the slide rails the slide to frame fit is not an issue. The locking up of the barrel to the slide is what makes a gun accurate. The importance of a slide being super tight is way over rated according to alot of the gunsmioths I've talked to. Lock up of the barrel especially at the front is the key to a good shooting weapon. For a self defese gun it would be the 220 all the way.
As far as 1911's go I've had 6-7. Of that two worked out of the box and the rest needed work. In fact the Kimbers I had (external extractor models) never could get running right. 1911's can be reliable. But their seems to be a greater chance for problems out of the box than aany other quality firearm. Having said that if you want the 1911 style cocked and locked set up Sig now makes a SAO version of the 220. I would buy the Sig in a heartbeat.
As to the frames not being tight I've only had that experience with a Certified Pre-Owned 229R 9mm I just bought. It concerned me a bit at first until I went over to the Sig forum and did some research. The slides vary alot in the amount of play in the slide to frame fit. It does not effect accuracy or reliablity at all. Mine CPO has 700 rounds through it now that I've fired accurate and reliable as the rest of my Sigs. . Unless the gun is damaged along the slide rails the slide to frame fit is not an issue. The locking up of the barrel to the slide is what makes a gun accurate. The importance of a slide being super tight is way over rated according to alot of the gunsmioths I've talked to. Lock up of the barrel especially at the front is the key to a good shooting weapon. For a self defese gun it would be the 220 all the way.
I have had a few instances where I had a FTF with my 220. Usually no more than 1 in every 100 rounds. Usually flawless. FTFs where with WWB, Blazer Brass, and Fed Hydrashok. I bought this gun used. Could be because of limp wristing, bad mags, or bad recoil spring. I guess I need to start writing down which mags I have problems with and see if I can eliminate them as a problem.
And I must say Fed Hydras are so much more accurate than range ammo. My groups where about half the size.
And I must say Fed Hydras are so much more accurate than range ammo. My groups where about half the size.