running it "wet"

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m17s_guy

New member
ok so ive attempted the running it "wet" theory with my new bushy, and i have to say it functioned much better with the cheap steel cased ammo than before.

but my question is, doesn't it get a little more expensive drownding your BCG in rem oil than buying the better ammo? or should i not be using rem oil or my hoppes elite for this?

any suggestions on a bit cheaper alternative to these expensive little 1oz bottles that will last a bit longer and still give me a functional improvement?
 
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lmccrock

New member
Never used Rem oil, but a quart of Mobil 1 motor oil lasts a long time, and if you want to run an action wet, it works.

Lee
 
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christcorp

New member
Average price of steel case ammo is $4-$6. average Price of cheep brass ammo is $8-$10. That's a savings of $4 per box. I shoot approximately 10-15 boxes of ammo per outing. 200-300 rounds. That's a savings of between $40-$60 in one outing. If you believe that you're putting $40 worth of oil on a gun in a couple hours, then you have some major issues. That isn't shooting a gun wet; that's similar to shooting the gun submerged.
 
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PawPaw

New member
Rob3 said:
I use Mobile 1 in my truck and motorcycles, but do you guys really use it in your rifles?
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Yeah, some of us do. I use more automotive lubricants in my firearms than "gun oils". Many of them have the same properties and auto lubricants are much less expensive.

For example, I run white lithium grease in my 1911s. I bought a tube of white lithium grease several years ago for $1.19. I've still got most of it.

I keep a can of brake cleaner on my bench. It's a whole lot cheaper than some of the aerosol gun cleaners and does a wonderful job,

Mobil One works great on AR type rifles and other semi-auto firearms. I like keeping the bolt wet on my AR, and nowadays I'm using Lucas Oil, a high-speed racing lubricant.

Automatic Transmission fluid (ATF) is one of the ingredients in Ed's Red, a gneral purpose gun cleaner that you can make at home.

There are lots of lubricants out there that will do the job just as well as those packaged specifically for the gun trade. I still use Hoppe's cleaners, probably because it's so traditional, but I'm not adverse to using some of the more advance lubricants also.
 
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tirod

Moderator
You don't have to use Mobil One. ANY full synthetic oil will do, choose the lighter weights, and get the parts house brand for less than $5 a quart. I see little reason ATF wouldn't work as well, it's high detergent and has good extreme pressure additives. I'm considering a 50/50 mix of 5-20 full syn and some Marvel Mystery oil I soaked some saw chains in.

The upper pin channel is where the Army recommends the most lube, but that's because they didn't put a roller bearing on the cam pin head. That's another solution widely used in machine guns on highly loaded surfaces, and available for the AR. Inexpensive, don't know if it needs it, but intuitively a better return on the money than a quad rail. Most builders seem to ignore internal improvements building their Kustom Kar-15.

Since it won't go they Krome it. :rolleyes:
 
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smoakingun

New member
+1 on the lucas oil, but it is expensive, I typically use lucas oil additive to part house brand synthetic. I have also found that motorcycle chain lube for x-ring chains works very well if the sand is blowing and you don't want to get gummed up
 
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Longdayjake

New member
If you use motor oil you should know that tests have been done that show that it does well at lubricating but not so well as other options at rust protection.
 
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mc223

New member
For all season lube:

Equal parts Marvel Mystery Oil & 2stroke oil plus equal part STP.
Won't blow off, cleans as it lubes and did I say available and cheap?
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Found on internet unknown author.

It works purty good.




Somewhere on this forum or High road is a lengthy discussion on Rem-Oil and the way Teflon(PTFE) (which is an ingredient) will build up and gum up the internals and also contains water or attracts water.

It is fine and even recommended for the externals.
 
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trigger45

New member
mobil 1 0w-20. dont have to use a brush just a shop rag. carbon just wipes off. still got a lot of it. great on my glocks. not going back to gun oil.
 
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christcorp

New member
A typical large can of CLP or Remoil; even if that is what you wanted to use; is less than $10. If half it's use was NORMAL use, and the other half was OVERKILL or running it WET, that's only about $5 of extra expense. And that $5 extra still lasts many trips to the range. I do all my normal cleaning and lube, prior to putting the rifle into the safe. Prior to taking it to the range, I give an extra spray onto the bolt carrier group, the mag area, and the chamber area. I then go shooting. It isn't costing me anything significant.
 
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Technosavant

New member
There's not all that much need to be real picky about lube, even for an AR-15. I've read stories of Pat Rogers at EAG Tactical even using Vagisil to lube a dry AR. It works.

A small squirt bottle of lube when you're doing a fair amount of shooting isn't a bad idea. Whether you use SuperExpensiveAwesomeGunLube, Mobil One, or Uncle Jimmy's Budget Motor Oil, it should suffice. IMO, there may well be some differences in performance between the kinds of lube, but I doubt they will be noticeable. Just not enough of a difference to worry about.

Personally, I keep two bottles of Mobile One on my gun bench- one of a very thin 0W-20, one of a higher viscosity 15W-50. I use the 20 weight where I want something thin that will get into the little nooks. I use the 50 weight when I want something heavier.
 
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