Ruger Transfer Bar Broken
- Thread starter shafter
- Start date
rantingredneck
New member
If you ask they'll likely cover the shipping too. They've done this for me even in situations where I wasn't the first owner.
44 Deerslayer
New member
The transfer bar is a customer replacable part. If you are comfortable doing it yourself, the transfer bar is a part that Ruger sells to the public. They should send you a free one.
Right, you can indeed install it yourself.
Once you do, check for "transfer bar pinch":
* Unload the gun.
* Check again
.
* Bring it to full cock, and then lower the hammer while continuing to hold the trigger back.
* With the trigger still back, push on the back of the hammer.
* Release the trigger, slowly.
If the trigger "sticks" backwards, the hammer is "pinching" the transfer bar - basically, it's hitting the transfer bar with more force than is necessary. The hammer should glide forward as your finger comes off it, even with the hammer pushed forward.
Many of us suspect this is a factor in transfer bar breakage. User "Flatgate" on rugerforums.com is the first to come up with this theory.
When you have a Ruger that's "pinching" like this, the cure is to gently file at the area of the hammer that hits the transfer bar, until the "pinch effect" stops. You can do this without taking the gun apart - wrap a small bit of rag around the base of the hammer to prevent grit falling in and gently file on the area of the hammer that hits the transfer bar. Go slow, PUT DOWN THE DREMEL, check it every dozen strokes or so of a jeweler's file.
Once you do, check for "transfer bar pinch":
* Unload the gun.
* Check again
.* Bring it to full cock, and then lower the hammer while continuing to hold the trigger back.
* With the trigger still back, push on the back of the hammer.
* Release the trigger, slowly.
If the trigger "sticks" backwards, the hammer is "pinching" the transfer bar - basically, it's hitting the transfer bar with more force than is necessary. The hammer should glide forward as your finger comes off it, even with the hammer pushed forward.
Many of us suspect this is a factor in transfer bar breakage. User "Flatgate" on rugerforums.com is the first to come up with this theory.
When you have a Ruger that's "pinching" like this, the cure is to gently file at the area of the hammer that hits the transfer bar, until the "pinch effect" stops. You can do this without taking the gun apart - wrap a small bit of rag around the base of the hammer to prevent grit falling in and gently file on the area of the hammer that hits the transfer bar. Go slow, PUT DOWN THE DREMEL, check it every dozen strokes or so of a jeweler's file.
Hi, guys,
Jim and Flatgate may well be right, but I don't think just the hammer hitting (pinching) that transfer bar would be enough to cause breakage. Now, I have never seen a Ruger transfer bar break, so I am talking theory here. But I think it is more likely that looseness in the bar that would allow it to twist so the hammer hits it on one side would be a more likely cause of breakage, and that might be checked also.
Jim
Jim and Flatgate may well be right, but I don't think just the hammer hitting (pinching) that transfer bar would be enough to cause breakage. Now, I have never seen a Ruger transfer bar break, so I am talking theory here. But I think it is more likely that looseness in the bar that would allow it to twist so the hammer hits it on one side would be a more likely cause of breakage, and that might be checked also.
Jim
Ruger is pretty good about repairing their firearms. I sent back a Ruger 77/22 rifle that was not ejecting empty cases and a 1970s Ruger Blackhawk .30 carbine that had two sticking chambers so bad that I had to hammer out the empty cases.
Ruger rebuilt the bolt and lower part of the 77/22 which holds the ejector and magazine. They replaced the cylinder, the pawl and put new screws in the grips on the Blackhawk. Returned both guns directly to my house.
No charges for any of the repairs.
I paid to ship the rifle at my expense.
Biggest problem is, as a non-FFL, returning handguns. UPS wanted over $60 to return the Blackhawk. After some negotiations, Ruger finally sent UPS to pick it up at their cost.
Ruger rebuilt the bolt and lower part of the 77/22 which holds the ejector and magazine. They replaced the cylinder, the pawl and put new screws in the grips on the Blackhawk. Returned both guns directly to my house.
No charges for any of the repairs.
I paid to ship the rifle at my expense.
Biggest problem is, as a non-FFL, returning handguns. UPS wanted over $60 to return the Blackhawk. After some negotiations, Ruger finally sent UPS to pick it up at their cost.
Edward429451
Moderator
Unless they changed the laws when I werent looking, an owner of a gun can ship to the factory for repair and the factory will ship directly back to the owners house with no ffl involved.
The laws are the same. . .but as a non-FFL bring a handgun to UPS and tell them you want to ship it back to the factory or a gunsmith.
They will only ship over night air. A dealer can ship it surface at a much cheaper price.
Regardless of Federal laws, UPS makes their own rules.
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Re: Unless they changed the laws when I werent looking, an owner of a gun can ship to the factory for repair and the factory will ship directly back to the owners house with no ffl involved.
They will only ship over night air. A dealer can ship it surface at a much cheaper price.
Regardless of Federal laws, UPS makes their own rules.
==================================
Re: Unless they changed the laws when I werent looking, an owner of a gun can ship to the factory for repair and the factory will ship directly back to the owners house with no ffl involved.
Call Ruger and they'll send you a new transfer bar for dirt cheap, or possibly free. WAY cheaper than paying shipping.
You should learn to disassemble and reassemble your critter regardless. There's a number of good tutorials online. The mainspring is the trickiest, see also:
http://www.cylindersmith.com/Ruger-spring.html
You should learn to disassemble and reassemble your critter regardless. There's a number of good tutorials online. The mainspring is the trickiest, see also:
http://www.cylindersmith.com/Ruger-spring.html
It broke because the T bar was misfit or had a casting flaw. It is purely coincidental that you dry fired the gun. The hammer HAS to transfer most of it's energy into the frame. If all of it goes against the T bar it will fail. It is a crucial balance. If a Ruger breaks it would have broken whether it was being dry fired or with live ammo.