I pull the upper, remove BCG, clamp in vice (handguard with rubber jaw inserts), boresight like you would a Bolt gun.
You are using an out of date browser. It may not display this or other websites correctly.
You should upgrade or use an alternative browser.
You should upgrade or use an alternative browser.
Rifles that don't bore sight well
- Thread starter Chaparral
- Start date
Don Fischer
New member
The older I get, the more off I am. It's probably not the barrel or scope ect. It's you! Your eye's are not that precision. As a younger man, before glass's I could do pretty well but still every now and then I'd mess it up. Little trick to try. Bore sight at 25yds and got from there. A bullet right on horizontal and about an inch low will put you on target at 100yds!
I usually put the rifle in my cleaning stand and lately, bore sight on a 2" orange dot I put on on a big tree across a field about 100 yards away.
Then I take it to the range and shoot at 25. Im usually pretty close to POA with the first round. Adjust it on there, and then shoot at 100, and zero to either an appropriate BSZ/PBR for the round at 100.
5 to 10 rounds total is usually all it takes.
Then I take it to the range and shoot at 25. Im usually pretty close to POA with the first round. Adjust it on there, and then shoot at 100, and zero to either an appropriate BSZ/PBR for the round at 100.
5 to 10 rounds total is usually all it takes.
Best to bore sight at closer range , then it should be on paper at 50 yards so you can sight in. Never heard of bore sighting at 100 yards.
You heard it here first!
There are two aspects, closer in means it does not matter as much, further out and you increase the accuracy but in the case of a non happy result, you loose a 5 shot group (if its on close enough I shoot all 5 then adjust)
So it at 25 or 50 and then you have to make major adjustment as the movement take a lot more dial. the 1/4 or 1/8 movement has to be doubled.
Key is you focus on a smaller spot at 100 (target, the orange clay pigeons are good, pieces of them etc)
It just take some out of the box thinking.
Brian Pfleuger
Moderator Emeritus
Actually, the farther away your target is the better you should be sighted. I try to use something small but obvious... like a lone maple leaf, or an actual target with a bullseye. I often use something that’s 100 yards away.... I’ve been known to use something very large and very far away.... like a truck that just happens to be there or an entire tree or house... or the side of a mountain.... might be 1/2 mile, or 10 miles away... always hit paper at 100.
I am trying to get the group size down on a CZ .22 right now and was thinking about padding my barrel channel on the stock and ran across this in my searches
https://www.longrangehunting.com/articles/free-floating-barrels-panacea-or-pain-in-the-neck.1220/
https://www.longrangehunting.com/articles/free-floating-barrels-panacea-or-pain-in-the-neck.1220/
The issue seems to be barrels that are mass produced and hastily threaded cockeyed or off center. Believe it or not almost every factory barrel has a curve or bend to it, in fact mass produced barrels are more often than not less-than perfectly straight.
I love my Sight-Align range vise. I can shoot one shot on a large paper target at, say 50 yards from a good benchrest setup, then clamp the rifle in the vise and adjust the vertical vise screw to bring the crosshairs to the aim point and slide the rig to coincide with the bull center.
Then, just make scope changes to have the reticle move to where you want it to be in relation to the bullet hole. Then, just take the rifle out of the vise and shoot it from the benchrest. If you didn't move things when adjusting the scope, the next round(s) shot should be right where you want it/them at that distance. If not, it should be so close that you can take a few clicks to get it just right.
Another good thing about using the vise is that you can quickly tell, when looking through the scope and making adjustments, whether there are any problems with the crosshair adjustments, or whether you've run out of the adjustment range.
The name of the vise has changed over the years, but it's the same unit.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9Kxd2X1MS7o
Then, just make scope changes to have the reticle move to where you want it to be in relation to the bullet hole. Then, just take the rifle out of the vise and shoot it from the benchrest. If you didn't move things when adjusting the scope, the next round(s) shot should be right where you want it/them at that distance. If not, it should be so close that you can take a few clicks to get it just right.
Another good thing about using the vise is that you can quickly tell, when looking through the scope and making adjustments, whether there are any problems with the crosshair adjustments, or whether you've run out of the adjustment range.
The name of the vise has changed over the years, but it's the same unit.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9Kxd2X1MS7o
Last edited:
that's known as a Texas zero in my area. You don't really need a vise. Just a bags, rest or bipod so you can rest the rifle while you tweak the scope. Once you are on paper you can zero a scope in 2 - 4 rounds perfectly.
http://bestriflescopereview.net/how-to-zero-a-rifle-scope/
http://bestriflescopereview.net/how-to-zero-a-rifle-scope/