What's a good reduced load (factory) .357 for "regular" shooting/plinking? - so as to avoid any fouling (cylinder build up) issues - and therefore specific cleaning necessity - with shooting .38s then immediately wanting to cross-over to shooting .357s. Applications: 3" and 4" Smith Ks, and Rossi .357 snubbie. Don't want an overly "wimpy" load - still want it to be effective should the need arise (e.g., varmints of the 2 or 4 legged variety) - but workable as a daily all (most) purpose round....so talking +P .38 territory.
Reduced load .357
- Thread starter gak
- Start date
TargetTerror
New member
Is your primary concern the reduction of cylinder fouling, or do you want a reduced load .357 for other reasons too?
If it is just the fouling issue, run a brush (and a dry patch if you're really OCD about it) through the cylinder when you switch. Yes, there will still be some fouling, but you will have dislodged most of the fouling that causing stuck cases.
If it is just the fouling issue, run a brush (and a dry patch if you're really OCD about it) through the cylinder when you switch. Yes, there will still be some fouling, but you will have dislodged most of the fouling that causing stuck cases.
brinell
gak: Sir; you pose a problem thought. Leading is caused by several factors.
Is the lead matched to the powder. It is the 'brinell' hardness that determines amount of leading. Sir; I do not remember the rule of thumb, but I'll try.
My basis's are as a reloader.
Are you reloading? If so; who/where do you get your lead? Each
Contact manufacture X tell them about the speed you hope to shoot.
Information they will need: Brass; powder; primer; gun; barrel length
At that point they will offer suggestions. Using the 'brinell hardness testing" manufactures have come up with something that will fit /fill your bill.
Now to your question. Most manufactures use a most efficient method; fairly accurate, fairly priced product. Some are good, but some are plain nasty with powder residue, copper flying, leading, as a by product.
Find .38 125grn or less will reduce recoil
Find .38 110grn will be less recoil [redundant] I know
Find .357 in 125grn and it too will have perceived less recoil
Sir; I answered your question [2] different ways on purpose.
A lot goes into making Ammo. Not trying to be 'condescending' only responsible
hope this helps in understanding
gak: Sir; you pose a problem thought. Leading is caused by several factors.
Is the lead matched to the powder. It is the 'brinell' hardness that determines amount of leading. Sir; I do not remember the rule of thumb, but I'll try.
My basis's are as a reloader.
Are you reloading? If so; who/where do you get your lead? Each
Contact manufacture X tell them about the speed you hope to shoot.
Information they will need: Brass; powder; primer; gun; barrel length
At that point they will offer suggestions. Using the 'brinell hardness testing" manufactures have come up with something that will fit /fill your bill.
Now to your question. Most manufactures use a most efficient method; fairly accurate, fairly priced product. Some are good, but some are plain nasty with powder residue, copper flying, leading, as a by product.
Find .38 125grn or less will reduce recoil
Find .38 110grn will be less recoil [redundant] I know
Find .357 in 125grn and it too will have perceived less recoil
Sir; I answered your question [2] different ways on purpose.
A lot goes into making Ammo. Not trying to be 'condescending' only responsible
hope this helps in understanding
wnycollector
New member
I shot a rossi snub in .357 over the summer. It was loaded with blazer JHP's, the recoil was stout but not bad. I find blazers to be fairly light .357 loads.
+1 on both the Winchester White Box 110 grain and the 158 Blazers. Haven't shot Blazers in a while but I believe they are spec'd at 1150 fps from a 4 inch barrel, compared to 1235-1240 fps of full power 158 loads. The Winchesters have about the same recoil as 158 +P .38 loads, IMO.
Look at <www.georgia-arms.com.> . They have a light load .357. I am going from memory, but I think it is their 125 grain round-nose in 750 (or maybe 850?) fps. You can buy bulk, so the cost is about as good as you are going to do these days. The website will give you better information. I think you will enjoy this round -- it is about like a .38 spl. in a .357 mag case.
Allen
Allen
chris in va
New member
Not really. The 38 has a shorter case, and he's concerned about the ring 38's leave in the cylinder.
StrikeEagle
New member
I hope what I'm going to say is responsive to your post... but...
... there really are no 'fouling issues' using .38spl in .357 chambers. I have a Smith 66, and two Ruger Security-Six revolvers, all .357s.
But I've always shot 95% .38spls in them. My own reloads, stuff I buy on the cheap, or LSWCHP +P FBI loads. And a few .357's when I want to give myself a thrill.
I've never never had any problem at all with fouling. I don't even clean them every time I shoot, either... they're stainless. But normal cleaning like you'd do in any revolver, no matter what you've been shooting in it will do the trick. The fouling thing is a non-issue. Truly.
A HUGE part of the utility and fun of a .357 is the ability to fire .38 spl in it. You lose that, and .357 becomes a bit questionable: expensive, and inflexible.
Also keep in mind that the ability of a .357 to fire .38 was designed into the system... it's not a 'trick' that some dodgy dude came up with in desperation... like firing .32ACP in a .32 mag revolver.
You'll solve all your problems in the most ideal way by simply rethinking your position on firing .38's through the firearm.
Do you know anyone that reloads? They could easily run off some light loads for you. Make sure it is someone you can trust to do it properly. This is one reason I got into reloading. I have my own range and shoot steel. I make light target loads for 9mm, .38 spl, .357, .40 & .45.
Dennis, I did have a reloader friend - that unfortuantely moved. Regarding myself, I am not in the mode right now. Admittedly I'm looking for convenience. I am very good about "normal" firearm cleaning per regular, safe practices, just wondering what might be out there - factory - that approximates the .38 +P or similar in a .357 format. I have owned as shot .357s with .38s for years and have dealt with the "ring" as most do and have suggested. I have found of course that some loads leave more than others...but I shoot such a variety - what I can find at best prices I admit - that it's hard to tell what's running cleaner. So...in some scenarios would just as soon do away with that aspect and find a nice "mild" .357 that still gets the job reasonably done; otherwise I'll keep up with the bore brush as the .38s certainly are cheap to shoot. Thanks all for the ideas...and keep it comin' if you got 'em!
If you haven't already tried one, I suggest a tornado brush. Instead of having bronze wires sticking out the tornado brush has stainless wires that form a loop. This seems to clean the ring much better than a bronze brush. I got mine at Academy Sports store.
I wouldn't use it on the barrel, only the chambers.
I wouldn't use it on the barrel, only the chambers.
azredhawk44
Moderator
gak: let me reference newton's law:
For every action, there is an equal and opposite reaction.
This means, as hard as you push a bullet, it pushes back at you and your gun. This can be applied in a manner to reduce recoil. There are a couple of things that represent the energy of a given cartridge... the weight of the bullet and the speed at which it moves.
I would suggest that you look at the most inexpensive sub-125gr .357magnum offerings that you can find in stores. These will still be loaded to a minimum SAAMI spec for .357 pressure levels, but the lighter bullets will give as little recoil as is possible. I say look at the cheaper ones, since the ammo companies will use as little powder as they can for the cheap loads in order to save money in production. They aren't offering it as "+P", "defense" or "hunting" ammo.
Personally, I reload my .357 using 158gr bullets and an "intermediate" loading using Hodgdon Titegroup powder between published loads for .38 +p and .357. Gives for a very pleasant and controllable plinking load for my sp101.
I'd strongly urge you to look into reloading if consistently available .357 "lite" is important to you. It's a great way to learn more about shooting sports and opens up a whole new world to you.
For every action, there is an equal and opposite reaction.
This means, as hard as you push a bullet, it pushes back at you and your gun. This can be applied in a manner to reduce recoil. There are a couple of things that represent the energy of a given cartridge... the weight of the bullet and the speed at which it moves.
I would suggest that you look at the most inexpensive sub-125gr .357magnum offerings that you can find in stores. These will still be loaded to a minimum SAAMI spec for .357 pressure levels, but the lighter bullets will give as little recoil as is possible. I say look at the cheaper ones, since the ammo companies will use as little powder as they can for the cheap loads in order to save money in production. They aren't offering it as "+P", "defense" or "hunting" ammo.
Personally, I reload my .357 using 158gr bullets and an "intermediate" loading using Hodgdon Titegroup powder between published loads for .38 +p and .357. Gives for a very pleasant and controllable plinking load for my sp101.
I'd strongly urge you to look into reloading if consistently available .357 "lite" is important to you. It's a great way to learn more about shooting sports and opens up a whole new world to you.
Gak- When I got my .357mag I had absolutely no interest in reloading, and frankly, got real tired of those kindly souls on the various boards I frequented telling my I should consider it. This is my not-so-subtle way of telling you the same thing. Fast forward to today, and I can't imagine buying factory ammo (with the possible exception of SD purposes). Using 3 different powders and a couple kinds of bullets, I can make up just about any load I like for my GP-100, from gentle with little or no recoil to full on zombie killers. That alone makes me glad I took the pastime up.
Hello all - thanks for all the suggestions to this point, keep 'em coming. I hear the reload part, just not an option right now for a variety of reasons - thus the factory question - but appreciate the encouragement nevertheless. I am not (generally) averse to buying someone else's reloads IF I know them/rep. I have been shooting a variety of .38s, .357s, .44s, .45s, what have you for 40 years. Neither am I am super-averse to recoil and in fact regularly shoot "hot" loads in my Blackhawk and Vaquero regularly--in both .357 and .44 mag formats "just because," and occasionally semi-hots with the K's. I just don't generally beat the latter up for no good reason. The question posed relates primarily to target and plinking/daily use of a pair of nice K .357s. (and a Rossi .357 snubbie), where I most certainly can just continue to shoot nice/warm .38 loads without great cleaning/swap over trauma, just wondered what (you thought) was out there currently...as I haven't been making the rounds regularly lately...that amounted to a reduced load .357 that approximated a "warm" .38 - for the reasons mentioned--and you've given some great suggestions.
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