Opening Stuck Powder Can Lid
- Thread starter ChasHam
- Start date
The can opener has a theoretically problematic aspect to it, so I would still be operating it remotely. The problem is the cans are made of plated steel. The plating doesn't make sparks when it rubs something, but when you cut through it and expose the steel at the edges of the cut, the possibility of a spark being generated lies in that, especially since the can opener itself is steel. Avoiding abrading steel is the name of the game, and steel-on-steel all the more.
Given that corrosion through the plating is also likely on the lid, avoiding rubbing steel is difficult to work out for unscrewing it, too. You might be able to get permission from your county sheriff to use an abandoned rock quarry or other pit location to just try shooting a drain hole through the can with a 22, as a pit directs any blast upward. Given that I can afford a can of black powder, I think I might just be tempted to do that to save myself more trouble and be sure I was far enough away when the can was penetrated.
Given that corrosion through the plating is also likely on the lid, avoiding rubbing steel is difficult to work out for unscrewing it, too. You might be able to get permission from your county sheriff to use an abandoned rock quarry or other pit location to just try shooting a drain hole through the can with a 22, as a pit directs any blast upward. Given that I can afford a can of black powder, I think I might just be tempted to do that to save myself more trouble and be sure I was far enough away when the can was penetrated.
black powder is seriously dangerous, whoever mentioned the local bomb squad or hazmat disposable unit has the best idea in this thread in my opinion. It was fun watching my uncle blow a stump with the stuff when I was 8 or 9 but he made sure all the kids were at a prudent distance when he was working with the stuff
jetinteriorguy
New member
I guess the reason I suggested using a ‘church key’ to open was the thought it wouldn’t produce a spark. In the interest of expanding my knowledge, not to be argumentative, how could using a can opener on a metal can produce a spark?
I think it is ok to get black powder wet, spread it out and then let it dry.
So here is a somewhat safe suggestion to combine several previous items.
At a safe location and from a safe distance use a 22LR can opener (no need to waste a good SMK) to poke a hole in the can as close to the top as possible. The plan could possibly transition from recovery to disposal at this step.
Try to pour the powder out of the hole on the backside of the can.
If you can not extract the powder dry, fill the can with water. With the powder fully wetted, wrench the lid off using whatever force needed.
If needed, spread and dry the powder.
Place the powder in an appropriate new container.
So here is a somewhat safe suggestion to combine several previous items.
At a safe location and from a safe distance use a 22LR can opener (no need to waste a good SMK) to poke a hole in the can as close to the top as possible. The plan could possibly transition from recovery to disposal at this step.
Try to pour the powder out of the hole on the backside of the can.
If you can not extract the powder dry, fill the can with water. With the powder fully wetted, wrench the lid off using whatever force needed.
If needed, spread and dry the powder.
Place the powder in an appropriate new container.
Jetinterior guy.
Small particles of iron are a fuel, ready to oxidize. When that oxidizing is slow, we call it rust. When it is fast, it is burning and releasing energy quickly, so it takes the form of a spark. If a puncturing or other force gets concentrated enough on an iron-containing material, tiny particles of it can be torn off the surface with enough momentary energy reach iron's ignition temperature in air. You see a lot of that going on if you apply a grinding wheel to iron or steel, where the friction from tearing the iron particles from its surface is high. But you can get small, individual sparks from tearing steel apart by other means, including puncturing it with a can opener. It is less common because the energy concentration is lower than what you apply when grinding. Nonetheless, they will randomly occur. Every once in a while someone blows themselves up screwing the caps onto pipe bombs because of the rubbing of the iron parts in the screwing motion. So, low probability or not, it isn't worth the risk over the cost of a can of powder to take the chance.
Small particles of iron are a fuel, ready to oxidize. When that oxidizing is slow, we call it rust. When it is fast, it is burning and releasing energy quickly, so it takes the form of a spark. If a puncturing or other force gets concentrated enough on an iron-containing material, tiny particles of it can be torn off the surface with enough momentary energy reach iron's ignition temperature in air. You see a lot of that going on if you apply a grinding wheel to iron or steel, where the friction from tearing the iron particles from its surface is high. But you can get small, individual sparks from tearing steel apart by other means, including puncturing it with a can opener. It is less common because the energy concentration is lower than what you apply when grinding. Nonetheless, they will randomly occur. Every once in a while someone blows themselves up screwing the caps onto pipe bombs because of the rubbing of the iron parts in the screwing motion. So, low probability or not, it isn't worth the risk over the cost of a can of powder to take the chance.
To add to what Uncle Nick said, "crushing" (or cutting slowly) is also a bad idea. Pressure = HEAT
And heat is not something you want when black powder is on the other side of the metal.
also, just FYI, ifn y'all put some vasoline or teflon tape on them threads, it cuts the risk of sparks.....
Here's something to consider, has the can ever been opened before? (to the best of your knowledge?)
If yes, then all bets are off. but if not, then there will be a seal (metal in the old days, paper now) underneath the cap. SO, if the seal is in place the risk of sparks from unscrewing a stubborn cap getting to the powder is very low.
Also, the seal would keep (or probably keep) penetrating oil from reaching the powder, and (if intact) would keep water out. That's its purpose.
If it were me, I would invert the can (so gravity works for you) and put some penetrating oil in the joint between the cap and the neck and let it sit for a few days, then using a strap wrench, unscrew the cap.
HOWEVER, that's my risk to take, you need to decide for your self, and no can of powder is worth ANY injury.
Good Luck.
And heat is not something you want when black powder is on the other side of the metal.
also, just FYI, ifn y'all put some vasoline or teflon tape on them threads, it cuts the risk of sparks.....
Here's something to consider, has the can ever been opened before? (to the best of your knowledge?)
If yes, then all bets are off. but if not, then there will be a seal (metal in the old days, paper now) underneath the cap. SO, if the seal is in place the risk of sparks from unscrewing a stubborn cap getting to the powder is very low.
Also, the seal would keep (or probably keep) penetrating oil from reaching the powder, and (if intact) would keep water out. That's its purpose.
If it were me, I would invert the can (so gravity works for you) and put some penetrating oil in the joint between the cap and the neck and let it sit for a few days, then using a strap wrench, unscrew the cap.
HOWEVER, that's my risk to take, you need to decide for your self, and no can of powder is worth ANY injury.
Good Luck.
I’ve only read the first 10 or so posts but I have to tell you I can’t stop cracking up . This crap seems so dangerous we’re now talking about burying it in the ground turning the lid with a strap wrench and a rope while laying prone I don’t know a mile away LOL . Why the hell would anybody use this stuff if it’s so darn dangerous to just open the can OMG haha .
Thank you all for this thread I now know 100% I want nothing to do with black powder ever .
Thank you all for this thread I now know 100% I want nothing to do with black powder ever .
It's not dangerous to open the can, under normal conditions. That's not what the OP has. He has a can that is at least 35yrs old that he cannot open by hand.
That means something is drastically out of the ordinary, and THAT's when black powder gets squirrelly dangerous, ... POSSIBLY...
So, we advise to err on the side of caution, because we simply can't KNOW with certainty what is or isn't safe.
I say put it in the ground like uncle Nick says and shoot it with your 22 from about 50 yards away . That sounds a lot more fun than trying to open the can and salvage it . Just kidding , kinda ;-) . Lets say the can opens how ever the method , then what ? Is it good to go or are there 10 more things that can kill you with a well placed sneeze:-0
jetinteriorguy
New member
Thanks UN, I know what your saying and have always understood the oxidation part from my college chem classes, I just wouldn’t have imagined even something as innocuous as using a can opener could also induce a spark.
9MMand223only
New member
had this issue before. I know how to get it off without an issue.
place can in vice or whatever apparatus to where it cant twist, place a strap wrench on lid..
like this...https://www.homedepot.com/p/Husky-8-in-Strap-Wrench-H8STRAPWR/300117125
OR large pliers, grips of any kind...the leverage will open it, or the lid will simply shear off.
place can in vice or whatever apparatus to where it cant twist, place a strap wrench on lid..
like this...https://www.homedepot.com/p/Husky-8-in-Strap-Wrench-H8STRAPWR/300117125
OR large pliers, grips of any kind...the leverage will open it, or the lid will simply shear off.