Oiling your gun

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Yung.gunr

New member
From my understanding fingerprints on your gun be because the salt and oil can cause it to rust. So does anyone use any kind of gloves while oiling to keep their prints off it? I was thinking about getting some cloth gloves to wear while oiling and then keeping them in a baggie to use later.

Has anyone done this? Am I overthinking it?
 
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geetarman

New member
Some of the new finishes on guns today are less prone to rust than the old time blued steel.

Blued finishes do need to be protected. A lot of gun shops keep an oiled cloth to wipe guns down after handling.

You can also use a piece of fleece or chamois sprayed with light oil to do the same thing. Terry toweling works well and is cheap.

Geetarman:D
 
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Yung.gunr

New member
Yeah I have a silicon impregnated cloth to use to wipe it down, but it seems I always get prints on it as I out it away. I have a new Savage Mark II I bought about a year ago and I saw some LIGHT surface rust in a couple small areas. It looked like they were from finger prints. It came right off but it got me thinking more about the prints.
 
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shortwave

New member
Some cotton gloves would work just fine.

I usually just have two rags which I keep handy for final detailing. Both are lightly oiled. One I hold the gun in, the other I give the final wipe down.
 
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jgcoastie

New member
Simple solution: don't hold the gun by the metal...

There's a stock on guns for a reason... If you have the stock off, then oil the parts that the stock covers while holding a part that the stock doesn't cover. Then hold the stock while oiling the rest of the gun.


The stock is for holding, not the metal.
 
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C0untZer0

Moderator
I use two old t-shirts / rags to handle the gun in the final stages of cleaning it, plus I wax it.

I use Meguiar's Gold Class Carnauba Plus Paste Wax for the exterior of the slide. Meguiar's Gold Class Carnauba Plus Paste Wax is fairly oily, it also is PH neutral and has no abrasives in it.

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No fingerprints after I'm done waxing and even if I did leave a fingerprint on there, the pistol is protected by a nice coat of hydrophobic long-polymer wax.
 
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dmazur

New member
+1 for Nitrile gloves (medical gloves, but not latex).

As I usually wipe my blued guns down with an oily rag after cleaning, I find I'm already wearing a pair of Nitrile gloves to protect my hands from absorbing the cleaning solvents...

So I just keep them on until the guns are put away.
 
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bob.a

New member
Overthinking? Depends. If you're dealing with a safe queen, something that's not going to be used or handled much from one month to the next, go right ahead and take precautions. If it's a regularly carried piece, you might be going too far.

You ought to google eezox. It seems to be a really superior rust preventative with decent lubricating properties. I use it on anything that's going to be stored for a while, and I've had no problems.
 
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langenc

New member
Get a RIG RAG (or RUG) and wipe each gun down after handling.shooting. No rust prints with them and you will need somr Rig grease but the rug will last as long as you do.
 
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dmazur

New member
For the new pistol owner,,,,is Hoppes 9 still the best way to clean and oil?
Click to expand...

Well, it is one way to remove powder residue and then oil, with separate products. Here is a link, if you already haven't found their site -

http://www.hoppes.com/cat_solvents.html

And here's another one -

http://www.montanaxtreme.com/

I believe there are some fairly standard ways to start an argument:

1. Which is better, 9mm or .45?
2. Which is better, .30-06 or .308?
3. Which gun cleaning solvent is best?

Your question is #3... :)

While you may get lots of answers, I don't think you'll get a clear winner.
 
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ClydeFrog

Moderator
The Outer Rim...

Unless you are from the Outer Rim or Reigel Seven, I highly doubt your sweat or fingerprint oils would do much damage.
If you are really hard corps like a professor or lab assistant you may want to get a few white cotton gloves or nitrile type medical gloves. Get the powder-free, textured kind. See Policehq.com or Galls.com.
White cotton gloves may be purchased from a local source.

ClydeFrog
 
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Hal

New member
Has anyone done this? Am I overthinking it?
Click to expand...
My High Standard Sport King was shot on a hot Summer day, then put away for a few days before cleaning it.
The same day, I shot my Virgianin Dragoon.
I also shot my Winchester (Ted Williams brand name) that day.
My Marlin Glenfield model 60 also.
FIE Titan GT380 too.

The .380 and the Marlin/Glenfield were fine when I got around to cleaning them a few days after being shot.

The others had enough rust on them to seriously detract from their appearance.

No - you're not overthinking this.
It really sucks to look at a damaged finish and know you're 100% responsible for it being that way.

Since that day, I always wipe down everything with a silicone cloth after I handle it, even though as others have pointed out - many of today's guns have more resistant finishes than the older ones.
 
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Garm

New member
Nitrile gloves are the best because they resist solvents and oil better than latex. You can get them cheap at walmart. I don't use them when I shoot. I just use them when cleaning and when I take the guns out to look at them.
 
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