New Cap and Ball Revolver

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ConRich

New member
Doc Hoy

I have always ordered it direct from Kano (the manufacturer). I buy it in the spray can.

I've seen Kroil for sale in catalogs like Midway, Sinclair, etc., but not in an spray can.

I'd go here;................ www.kanolabs.com

Rich
 
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maillemaker

New member
I don't know how the ATF/Acetone formula got famous for removing stuck screws 'cause when you mix the two together they do not mix.
Click to expand...

Well, there goes that internet advice! :)

I had never tried it; I was repeating what I had read here several times.

Sounds like Kroil is the way to go.

Steve
 
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wogpotter

New member
I don't know how the ATF/Acetone formula got famous for removing stuck screws 'cause when you mix the two together they do not mix. It's like oil & vinegar: they separate out.
Click to expand...
Actually it does work, despite the separation.
You agitate vigorously to micro mix, but not dissolve. (a bit like oil & vinegar salad dressing).
Applied right away the mix penetrates rapidly.
Then the 2 separate & the acetone evaporates leaving a layer of the oil to lubricate down inside the components.

The trick(s) are small lots, agitate well, use immediately.

In this case though where you want long term immersion "Kroil" or another "penetrating oil" is a better choice.
 
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bedbugbilly

New member
AKexpat - don't know if this would work or not - but have you tried putting the brass frame in the freezer? If I remember correctly . . and I'm getting old so may be wrong . . . but a stuck brass casing in a steel die can sometimes be loosened up by putting it in the freezer. Kind of "backwards" as you want to take steel out of brass . . . but maybe worth a try?:)
 
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foolzrushn

New member
BBB

I think any 'heat/cold cycling' between dissimilar metals will begin to cause some micro thread slippage, that can only help loosen something in a case like this. Even though one automatically thinks of heat on the side plate and cold on the screw, if you are trying to not heat-damage the side plate, then backwards is worth a try. If it doesn't work, you can always reverse it and heat the side plate. They do use heat/cold cycles to age test things. I'm with you BBB, why not try it?
 
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BlackPowderBen

New member
Well I soaked the two cylinders in pb blaster for 3 days and 4 nipples came out. still got 8 more. I'll put it in the vice next.
If I were to soak cylinders in penetrating oil again, I would probally use kroil instead of pb blaster because it left a iridescent ring around the cylinders
 
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wogpotter

New member
Great news!
I usually put a small amount of grease lube on the threads when re inserting them. It prevents a recurrence of the problem. I've used a Crisco/beeswax & Wunderlube 1000/2000 with equally good results.
 
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Gator Weiss

New member
Kitchen oven is another method in removing things with threads. You get all the oil off so it doesnt smoke up the place. Adjust the heat to your needs and warm it up a little while. A good wrench always always always. Sometimes cheap or poor condition wrenches tear up things and make it harder to remove. When something is stuck, you need good equipment to work the problem and it looks like he did that very well with his new wrench.
 
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mehavey

New member
Kroil -- as other have mentioned -- pour it in small/shallow container and let cylinder sit in it nipples down.
Put cylinder in vise* between wooden blocks to prevent marring. Use the impact technique below:

For Screws -- Kroil, then use the impact screwdriver technique where you ...
(a) put gun/action/receiver on wood block for support,
(b) put tight-fitting screwdriver pressed down hard into the slot and twist w/ steady pressure,
(c) repeatedly smack the end of the screwdriver w/ a hammer simultaneously while holding down hard and twisting.

It will start to turn. ;)

In shooting: Simply oil the nipple threads with BreakFree/CLP. They will be no problem to remove as long as you clean after each session.


* or on wood block with (two) protruding dowels to anchor the clylinder from turning.
 
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