BlackPowderBen
New member
I got a new colt 1851 pietta repro. the nipples are on the cylinder extremely tight, and I want to take the gun apart, but the screws wont budge. Any Ideas on how to loosen them?
New Cap and Ball Revolver
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BlackPowderBen
New member
would 3 in 1 oil work?
foolzrushn
New member
for the nipples
Penetrating oil would be much better. You could remove the cylinder, put it on a rag with nipples up, then paint around each nipple with a small art brush with WD40 or the like. I keep a small glass make-up jar stolen from the wife full of WD for just this kind of thing. It's a lot less messy than spraying down the whole thing and it's hard to spray 'a little bit'.
Another thing someone on here said that is GOLDEN....apply steady pressure to the stuck nipple and hold it for as long as you can. Keep repeating that (after applying the oil) until the nipple releases. Just gradually increase the pressure until you think something might break...then hold steady. I have had nipples like that release after 5 seconds or less when at first they seemed really stuck. Give it a chance to work.
And use a good nipple wrench. This is what I would try with the screws once, but with MUCH less force and a good screwdriver before soaking. I am thinking you have both nipples and screws stuck.
Penetrating oil would be much better. You could remove the cylinder, put it on a rag with nipples up, then paint around each nipple with a small art brush with WD40 or the like. I keep a small glass make-up jar stolen from the wife full of WD for just this kind of thing. It's a lot less messy than spraying down the whole thing and it's hard to spray 'a little bit'.
Another thing someone on here said that is GOLDEN....apply steady pressure to the stuck nipple and hold it for as long as you can. Keep repeating that (after applying the oil) until the nipple releases. Just gradually increase the pressure until you think something might break...then hold steady. I have had nipples like that release after 5 seconds or less when at first they seemed really stuck. Give it a chance to work.
And use a good nipple wrench. This is what I would try with the screws once, but with MUCH less force and a good screwdriver before soaking. I am thinking you have both nipples and screws stuck.
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bedbugbilly
New member
Make sure you have a good fitting nipple wrench and also a good quality screwdriver that "fits" the screws . . . . and sometimes, it really helps to swear a lot while you're doing it! 
Doc - I don't see how Pietta could bet rid of Godzilla . . he has too much seniority!
Doc - I don't see how Pietta could bet rid of Godzilla . . he has too much seniority!
maillemaker
New member
A good home-made penetrating oil that has been suggested is a 50/50 mix of Acetone and Automotive Transmission Fluid.
Steve
Steve
Well said!
I have a Pietta 1851 Navy .36 (2014 [CM]) that was produced as a round trigger guard model. Bought a squareback TG from Taylors along with a spare mainspring and screw to convert it to a 1851 2nd Model because the original mainspring screw will not budge. The original TG, mainspring has been soaking in ATF/acetone for over 2 weeks and it will still not move. I'll leave it there until hell freezes over just to see if it will loosen.
Curious: all of the other screws move fairly easily. If one shoots, then cleans the pistol, the nipples and the mainspring screw do not need to be removed. Could it be that Pietta is using a super-strength thread-locking compound on the mainspring screw and nipple threads to make sure they won't back out?
Thoughts?
Jim
3-in-1 is way, way too thick.
Real penetrating oil or the ATF/Acetone, if you don't mind the health issues with it, will be better.
Car parts stores sell "Marvel Mystery oil" which is better. Failing that an aerosol called "BP Blaster".
As always the right tool for the job is your best bet.
Real penetrating oil or the ATF/Acetone, if you don't mind the health issues with it, will be better.
Car parts stores sell "Marvel Mystery oil" which is better. Failing that an aerosol called "BP Blaster".
As always the right tool for the job is your best bet.
Kroil
For those who aren't familiar with this product, it is the best PENETRATING oil on the planet. As mentioned in a previous post PAITIENCE is more than half of the solution to the problem.
You can learn more about Kroil at their web site;
www.kanolabs.com
Rich
For those who aren't familiar with this product, it is the best PENETRATING oil on the planet. As mentioned in a previous post PAITIENCE is more than half of the solution to the problem.
You can learn more about Kroil at their web site;
www.kanolabs.com
Rich
Bishop Creek
New member
I had the same problem with my 1873. Took a good hollow ground screw driver to the screws and lightly tapped on the end with a small rubber mallet. Then pushed down hard on the screw driver and was able to remove them.
Vagunmonkey
New member
I second the suggestion of Kroil....has worked every time so far.
foolzrushn
New member
screws
AKexpat -- I suspect that the problem with screws on new repro guns may be due to relatively roughcut threads which are getting screwed for the first time. Seems to me like the Italian repro screw threads have a relatively sharp edge compared to our industrial machined threads.
Doc -- Guess the next thing to try after penetrating oils would be heat. Has anyone tried the alcohol flame and blow tube method like we did in Science class back in the day?
I was thinking that since it can have a very small focused flame, one might use it directly on the threaded tail end of the side plate screws....putting the tiny flame centered right on the screw end without heating the surrounding surface. This might allow some expansion / contraction action, if in fact it would provide great enough heat.
It might also allow using heat in situations where the surrounding areas were delicate. Might not work, just thinking about trying to find another trick. Don't know if the side plates are brass or steel.
I have used the impact method that Bishop Creek uses, it works well. Although I really try to not let the wife see me hammering on a screwdriver....I have chastised her for doing the same thing while killing the lid on a paint can.
AKexpat -- I suspect that the problem with screws on new repro guns may be due to relatively roughcut threads which are getting screwed for the first time. Seems to me like the Italian repro screw threads have a relatively sharp edge compared to our industrial machined threads.
Doc -- Guess the next thing to try after penetrating oils would be heat. Has anyone tried the alcohol flame and blow tube method like we did in Science class back in the day?
I was thinking that since it can have a very small focused flame, one might use it directly on the threaded tail end of the side plate screws....putting the tiny flame centered right on the screw end without heating the surrounding surface. This might allow some expansion / contraction action, if in fact it would provide great enough heat.
It might also allow using heat in situations where the surrounding areas were delicate. Might not work, just thinking about trying to find another trick. Don't know if the side plates are brass or steel.
I have used the impact method that Bishop Creek uses, it works well. Although I really try to not let the wife see me hammering on a screwdriver....I have chastised her for doing the same thing while killing the lid on a paint can.
SNAP! Lotta good stuff here
I had not read of ATF and Acetone in a while. Thanks Steve. I have some mixed up in a Jim Beam bottle and that didn't work for me. (My limited experience mirrors Hellgate's)
The mix is best (IMHO) used by mixing in small amounts, mixed and used right on the spot.
The stuff I have separated almost immediately. Now, the acetone has evaporated out and I have almost pure ATF.
BC and Foolsrushn,
Good suggestions. I have a heat gun that might work. I think it tops out at about 500 to 800 degrees. Less likely to discolor the "case hardened" finish.
Hawg,
Yes, In the case of the plate, I can heat the plate some distance from the screw
PB Blaster is good stuff, but looks like I might need to go out and buy some Kroil. Next mission is to find out who sells it.
I had not read of ATF and Acetone in a while. Thanks Steve. I have some mixed up in a Jim Beam bottle and that didn't work for me. (My limited experience mirrors Hellgate's)
The mix is best (IMHO) used by mixing in small amounts, mixed and used right on the spot.
The stuff I have separated almost immediately. Now, the acetone has evaporated out and I have almost pure ATF.
BC and Foolsrushn,
Good suggestions. I have a heat gun that might work. I think it tops out at about 500 to 800 degrees. Less likely to discolor the "case hardened" finish.
Hawg,
Yes, In the case of the plate, I can heat the plate some distance from the screw
PB Blaster is good stuff, but looks like I might need to go out and buy some Kroil. Next mission is to find out who sells it.