My CCW must be revolver!

[hogdogs]

I went shoppin' in the gun shop today. I was fully intending to buy a compact auto loader 9mm minimum but planned on .40 or .45 acp. I quickly learned that my now defunct left hand won't consistently manipulate the slide to clear a possible jam. That right there rules out the autos! I am, however, able to open a cylinder one handed and my left hand could drop in the speed loader. I would than switch the gun from right to left hand to open the speed loader. The revolver I handled is a 5 round Taurus .41mag with muzzle brake. I did not worry about model but wonder what calibers ya'll wheel gunners consider a good primary CCW round. Is the .41 a substantial defense round for CWC?
Brent

 

[BillCA]

If that Taurus is steel, it's the model 415 and the lightweight titanium version is the 415T. The .41 Mag, loaded with the 175-gr Winchester Silvertip would be heap big medicine for any goblin. I'd prefer the steel framed version myself, but this load in the light Ti gun was not really abusive (just very stout).

If you have a disfunctional hand, you may still be able to operate a semi-auto and clear jams, but it will take you some experimentation and extra skull sweat to figure out what you can (and can't) do.

For instance, in semi's without a full length guide rod, like the original 1911, you can use the edge of a surface, like a table, to push the slide back by pushing against the recoil spring plug and allowing the barrel to move past the edge of the table/barrier. This could allow you to chamber a new round from the magazine, clear some jams and lock the slide back with one hand. No handy table or edge? Lift your left foot and use the side or heel of your shoe.

Guns with non-"streamlined" rear sights (like Novak sights) can be actuated by snagging the rear sight and pushing briskly. The down side here is you risk damaging or removing the sight.

With a little thinking "outside the box" you might find that you can still use a self-shucker by using some unorthodox techniques.

 

[Webleymkv]

My preference is a medium frame .357 Magnum with a 2.5-3" barrel. My personal CC is a S&W M66-2

If the Taurus you are looking at is a Model 415 snub, you may consider a lighter caliber. I had a Model 445 (same revolver with a 2", no brake barrel in .44Spl) and the recoil was viscious. For me, felt recoil was worse than a full bore .44 Magnum out of my Redhawk and is the worst I've yet experienced (suffered?). My hands hurt at the thought of a full power .41 Magnum out of that small a gun. If, however, the recoil is not an issue (I don't know how effective the brake is), the .41 Magnum would be an excellent SD cartridge if loaded with qulaity hollow points.

 

[hogdogs]

Bill, While I entertain any ideas like using a surface to operate the slide, I also must know I am 100% capable in an open area to keep my gun operational. I may regain enough use my hand in the future to use an auto. Like I told my daughter, she was with me in the store, with adrenaline in play I might be fine as I am right now. As for the revolver it was bright in color but not as light weight as I would expect Ti to be but do not know how many parts are Ti on these guns or what % the metallurgy is.
Brent

 

[hogdogs]

Webly, I think it had at least an inch more barrel. The drilled area of the brake seemed to be as long as your barrel. The guy at the shop knows I never was too awful hindered by recoil and is confident I could easily deal with one handed operation of this weapon. I am yet to try it so I am not positive. I have fired .44mag from a 6 inch barrel just fine both one and 2 handed. I was firing as single action and not sure how I will fare in a draw and fire in double action.
Brent

 

[Jim March]

The 41Mag is more potent than the 10mm auto round in almost all loadings. It's a bit of a beast . The Silvertip is one of the milder loads and in a steel-frame variant of the gun you're looking at shouldn't be too crazy. It's a good round. Even with that "somewhat light" round the TI-frame version of that gun will be a handful.

Any of the really maxxed-out 41maggie rounds will be flat-out uncontrollable in the ultralight series and a challenge even in the steel version - esp. one-handed.

Personally, I think you'll do better with a 357 in a gun weighing at least 26oz and 30 to 32 would be better. In it's stronger loadings the 357 is no slouch, equaling or exceeding the 10mm auto's horsepower.

 

[john1911]

Let me throw this out, .41 mag ammo can be hard to find in some places. It also tends to be more expensive than something like .357 mag.

 

[9mm1033]

Sounds like you prefer the larger calibers for revolver conceal carry. But, here's a neat little gun to hid. The M36, 38 snubnose.

 

[hogdogs]

In ACP, I prefer over the 9mm luger. But with rimmed variants capable of exceeding the powder loads of the shorter acp's I think I will entertain some leeway on my expectations. I understand a .38/.380 is about the same diameter as 9mm? Or nearly so? I am more concerned with how a round stops an individual than it's diameter. I would like a tad more barrel than a 2 inch snubby. To me concealability on my smallish frame is more limited to width than a little length. I will fire the heck out of my CCW so I do want to see a bit of downrange accuracy. 25 yard capability is required.
Brent

 

[Jim March]

The 9mm bullet is .355 or .356 wide. The 38Spl, 38Spl+P and 357 are all .357.

To get a feel for what sorts of horsepower are available, browse the loads for all the 38s and 357s here:

http://www.buffalobore.com/ammunition/default.htm

Note that they sell "standard and extra power" rounds in both 38 and 357, so look at all four sections. Compare with their 9mm loads but also note those are VERY wild 9s. DoubleTap ammo also sells "near thermonuclear" loads.

The hairiest 357s up past 750ft/lbs energy are going to need good sized guns to get the most out of them. A 4" barrel GP100 is a good start . The 3" SP101 at around 27oz will be right on the edge of controllability with the gnarliest of these loads.

 

[hogdogs]

draw-a-bility would likely make me consider 3 inch a stopping point. 4 may be a bit cumbersome to draw. I have used .38+p and I think I also bought some sold as ++P super hots. These were extremely usable in a charter arms snubby with one handed draw and fire. I do like the fitment of a bigger grip area over the "detective" size gun. Holsters have really advanced over the years and I am willing to wear untucked polo shirts but ankle carry is not really an option and the smallest frames fit that well. I will carry IWB for the most part. Not pocket or ankle. So a .357mag is what we will call minimum in a revolver? I would likely be steered towards a hefty frame in a mag of up to .41mag than a small frame in .38/.38+P... Just never liked them dinky grips.
Brent

 

[rugernut]

its no fun when your body dont work like it use to. i like a snubbie either a



















s7w or a ruger sorry cant type either. getting old

 

[hogdogs]

Especially when yer good arm was the injured one. i am a lefty and considered myself blessed that I hold and fire the gun in my right hand leaving my dominant hand free for battle, reloading, jam clearing and other utilitarian jobs!
Brent

 

[HighValleyRanch]

May I ask if you can use your weakened hand for support?
I ask this because there are other considerations. Can you fire comfortably double action one handed. It's not as easy as two handed and you are not going to be as accurate as a semi one handed because of the long DA pull (one handed). If firing more than six shots, you then WILL have to bring you other hand into play.
Firing a glock with 15 rounds you can fire easily one handed and have plenty of fire power without ever worrying about using you other hand. Magazine change would be easier than a speed loader as well.

As stated before, you can use your pants, boots, etc. to clear a jam, and with a glock, you will not be worrying too much about jams. They do happen, but it's been quite a while since I've had to worry about one in mine, and I shoot it alot! Probably about a year ago.

 

[BillCA]

Let's see if I have this right....

You'd prefer a 3" barrel to a 2" barrel.
Cylinder width is more of an issue for you than barrel length.
You are not recoil sensitive (or not too easily bothered)
You're not fond of "skinny" grips (easiest to correct).
You want something accurate to 25 yards.
Caliber has to be effective for self-defense.

That about it?

I'll add that if your need isn't too immediate, you can consider having a 2.5" 686 set up to use moon clips for reloading. That'll allow your left hand to simply drop the ammo in without having to turn/push/pull any knobs.

In new models, that comes down to something like an S&W L-frame .357. The 586 L-Comp is probably what you're looking for. Seven rounds, 3" ported barrel, front night-sight, 37oz.

If that's too bulky for you, consider one of the steel J-frame 5-shooters with large-ish grips. Either the hammerless S&W Model 640 Centennial or the shrouded hammer Model 649 Bodyguard, as shown below.

Both can fire .357 Magnum or .38 +P ammo.

I would not dismiss a revolver capable of firing .38 Special +P either. Over the years the .38 Special has shown itself to be quite capable when fired accurately. The above 649 is generally carried with Winchester .38 +P SXT 130-gr +P ammo. Opening your options to the .38 +P allows you to include the six-shot, 3" barreled K-Frame Model 64 or the 5-shot, 3" Classic Model 36.

Even with the 2 1/8" barrel 25 yard hits are not unusual. That doesn't mean it's easy to make a tight group at that range however. But you should be able to hit a silhoutte at that distance.

If none of these suit your needs, then finding a used K-Frame .357 Magnum will be your next step. A model 13, 19, 65 or 66 with a 2.5" or 3" barrel.

 

[hogdogs]

Thanks for all the info. I am not in an immediate rush to buy so I have time to weigh all my options. Ya'll have really given me many more of those!
My poor hand May usable in assisting to fire... I have used it to take a few off hand shots with my 500 mossberg.
Brent

 

[ATW525]

My suggestion would be the S&W M60. It's a stainless steel J frame snub, which currently available with 2", 3" and even 5" barrels. You can get the flatness of a 5 round J frame mated with a tube capable of obtaining serious performance with magnum ammunition.

 

[jhgreasemonkey]

I sure find the newest s&w m&p .357 magnum 8 shot combat revolver interesting. The only reason it might not work for your needs is barrel length. I'm not sure how short of a barrel they offer.

 

[hogdogs]

Since i would prefer to shoot my first shot in SA mode I am not real found of the "hidden hammer" I would like a nice wide exposed hammer. I guess most here consider the .357mag a capable man stopper? I understand ammo availability and see that the venerable .357 is available everywhere and the newer .41mag may not be as well offered or much more pricey! As for barrel length I am somewhat flexible with IWB draw ability being the crucial aspect. What lengths do ya'll that daily carry consider for this? Is 3 inch the limit? More or less?
Brent

 

[Joe the Redneck]

Unless you plan on getting mugged by Bigfoot, I think the 41 will do the job.