Lubing Cast bullets

[Crosshair]

No problem then with lube being under the gas check and having it fall off? I'm just wondering because I saw a nice mold I want but it is a GC mold.

The gas checks are crimped on when they pass through the sizer. They aint coming off.

Worrying about them falling off after sizing is like worrying about the wheels coming off your car after the lug nuts have been properly torqued.

I've never had a problem with the bullets made this way. I've loaded 30 cal cast bullets with gas checks in 30 carbine, 30-30, and .308 and all shoot fine with no ill effect. The gas check stays on snug from breech to backstop.

If you don't want to use this method then feel free to spend the money on a lubesizer. I've never owned one and never plan to. Tumble lubing and Lee Size dies for me.

 

[trip_sticker]

One of the bullets I want to cast in the near future is for my 30-30. I currently only own the Lee TL-358-158 SWC mold and a round ball mold for my 50 cal.

Which mold have you had success with making 30-30's? Can you share the load data on here? I currently load the jacketed 150 gr round nose soft point. I'd like a cast bullet of similiar design (round nose) if it is made?

 

[Crosshair]

I use the Lee 90366 C309-150-F mold with a gas check. Some people get better accuracy with the 90367 C309-160-R mold, but the 150 works fine for me.

USE LOAD DATA AT YOUR OWN RISK.

As for load data I use SR-4759 powder and 17.5 grains of it. Gets you around 1600 fps and nowhere close to MAP.

 

[trip_sticker]

Thanks for the info. I'll be using a differnt powder (I use IMR 3031) with factory bullets. I'll find that in the reloading manual before I start to work up a load.

Have you seen any problems or advantages with a FP over a RP bullet?

 

[snuffy]

The gas checks are crimped on when they pass through the sizer. They ain't coming off.

Not all gas checks crimp on. The Lyman's are more like brass and simply slip on the shank. Some have even gone as far as gluing those gas checks on to be sure they stay put.

The Hornady gas checks are SUPPOSED to crimp on. Some times they do sometimes they don't. IF the shank on the bullet is exactly the right size and IF the sizer is the right size, the gas check will crimp firmly to the shank. Introducing some lube under that gas check will help this? There's just no way a layer of lube is going to help it stay put.

 

[max it]

Lube and Luberz

Hi Guys,

Since this seems to be close on to my interests I am posting here:

I have the Ideal 45 lubrisizer, how do I insert a new Alox block? No instructions with it. I screwed off the top but it didnt come out.

Second: I have several toilet bowl wax rings: what do i do to make them into lube?

Much obliged as always,

Max

 

[Crosshair]

Not all gas checks crimp on. The Lyman's are more like brass and simply slip on the shank. Some have even gone as far as gluing those gas checks on to be sure they stay put.

OK that's reasonable. Then let me say that my experience only applies to using Hornady gas checks then.

The Hornady gas checks are SUPPOSED to crimp on. Some times they do sometimes they don't.

They way I use them they stay on. It takes quite a bit of force to put that bullet through the Lee sizer and that pushes the GC on even tighter and forces out much of the lube.

IF the shank on the bullet is exactly the right size and IF the sizer is the right size, the gas check will crimp firmly to the shank.

If you use 30 caliber gas checks on a 30 caliber bullet and size them to 30 caliber you don't have problems. I've sized a few to .311/.312 for a fellow reloader to test in a 303 British and they still stayed on from what he said.

If the shank is the wrong size then you need to change casting alloys to have them drop the proper size or your mold is out of spec.

Introducing some lube under that gas check will help this? There's just no way a layer of lube is going to help it stay put.

Like I said, the crimp keeps it in place. Do I need to post a video of myself trying to remove the gas check with a pair of pliers before you believe me when I say THEY ARE NOT GOING ANYWHERE. The only way to get them off is to cut them off with a Dremel.

 

[trip_sticker]

Making a video of the gas check seating process would be great for those of us getting ready to undertake this ordeal for the first time.

 

[snuffy]

I have the Ideal 45 lubrisizer, how do I insert a new Alox block? No instructions with it. I screwed off the top but it didnt come out.

Mine is a 450 Lyman. On it, you turn the pressurizer shaft the opposite of the direction you turn it to pressurize the the lube chamber. On mine that would be clockwise. Turn it until the piston comes out of the top, then remove it. You need hollow sticks of lube to refill the chamber. Insert one then replace the piston, making sure the rubber "O" ring is not damaged. Then just turn the shaft counterclockwise to lower the piston, keep turning until it pressurizes the lube chamber.

Toilet bowl rings USED to be made of bees wax. They could be mixed with other waxes or grease to make bullet lube. Now a days, they're made of some synthetic crap, maybe they would work?

 

[Rangefinder]

^^Toilet bowl rings---I forgot all about those things! Now I'm gonna have to go look at an ingredient list next time I run to Ace...

Also try the health food and/or Natural food stores. They seem to carry beeswax is multiple forms all the time.

 

[max it]

Hi Ya Snuffy,

Right on about the 450. I tried unscrewing it before the Alox was used up. The piston came to the top but I was unable to pull it out. Maybe it will be easier when there is no Alox under it?

Toilet bowl rings: they are made of the gunk left in tankers when all the crude oil is drained out. Plain and simple. [ I was the mfrs rep for 'Gunk' and their guys told me]. Is it grease, nope, is it oil, I dont think so. Just like Jello is no longer a product of horses hoofs or cows stomachs or whatever.

Much obliged,

Max

 

[Ivan]

Toilet wax seals are much more tacky and less viscous than typical bullet lube. Has anyone actually tried them as bullet lube?

- Ivan.

 

[Rangefinder]

Max it is right---I took a look at a couple different brands the other day and they remind me of the sludge I clean off the stove after the fryer boils over and cooks on for a while---nasty stuff.

HOWEVER---eBay (as much as I hate supporting that left-coast company) has enough beeswax regularly for my formula to keep my bullets lubed for a few hundred years .

 

[Pathfinder45]

Toilet bowl sealing wax....

.....Like I said before, it's what I use. It's soft and sticky, perhaps a little messy but it works well even with Black-powder. The ones I use are yellow-brown wax. Comercially cast bullets use a harder, drier wax because it's less messy in that it doesn't pick up debris, ships neater and loads a lot easier and faster. No muss, no fuss. But when you pull the trigger the soft sticky is better especially so with black-powder.

 

[Crosshair]

Toilet wax seals are much more tacky and less viscous than typical bullet lube. Has anyone actually tried them as bullet lube?

I've tried it and didn't like it. It works, but I found that Vaseline and Johnson's paste wax is easier to work with. Though again, I tumble lube my bullets. It may be different if you are using a lubesizer.

 

[GP100man]

Warm ya bullets a little in the sun & put em in a bowel with some johnsons paste wax & see what happens , stand em up let em dry , load & shoot !!!!

I did with a Lyman 148gr. wc with 3.2 grs. red dot cci 500 primer in a 357 case shot 50 times & bore of my 6" GP 100 was shiney !!

I have a 158 swc TL mold I think i`ll pour some up & see how hard I can push em with 2400.

Then supplement the JPW with liquid mule snot (alox) & do it all over???

 

[trip_sticker]

Warm ya bullets a little in the sun & put em in a bowel with some johnsons paste wax & see what happens , stand em up let em dry , load & shoot !!!!

I did with a Lyman 148gr. wc with 3.2 grs. red dot cci 500 primer in a 357 case shot 50 times & bore of my 6" GP 100 was shiney !!

I have a 158 swc TL mold I think i`ll pour some up & see how hard I can push em with 2400.

Then supplement the JPW with liquid mule snot (alox) & do it all over???

I know that was a typo, but I couldn't resist!

 

[IllinoisCoyoteHunter]

Bowel lubing.... Grrrrooooossssssssssss!

 

[jaguarxk120]

If you go to the Lyman web site they have the instructions in a pdf file for downloading, explanes everything about the sizer/lubricator.

Always use NEW wax rings, much better that way.

 

[max it]

wax rings, shiney bore?

Recently I was told by a gunsmith that shiney bore is no mark of a clean barrel. More like clean sharp lands and grooves is the mark of a clean barrel. Shiney can be lead coated without noticing it. Comments?

as always, much obliged,

Max

p.s.- used wax rings! :barf: