List important equipment for hunting camp
- Thread starter Mr. Hill
- Start date
If you're borrowing a sleeping bag, see if you can borrow a second one. Put it under the one you're sleeping in on the cot. Leave the sleeping bag you use open during the day when you're gone to make sure that any condensation from overnight is able to escape.
The linked list is really good. And ditto on the aspirin/ibuprofen and water at night.
In addition to a seat pad thingy, I bring a turkey hunter's seat that gets me up off the ground about 3". It's much nicer than trying to be comfortable for hours on a spot that isn't exactly level or with a stick or a rock that is in the "wrong" place.
I bring a crap ton of water with me. I fill my hydration bladder and also a 1 liter bottle in my day pack. I head out way before it gets light, and make a cup of oatmeal over the little stove that I pack when I get to my spot. It's good to refuel, and something warm really helps in the morning.
I bring both a head lamp and a 2 cell AAA flashlight. When meeting people on the trail in the dark, I turn off the head lamp and turn on the flashlight. Most people don't realize that when you look at someone in the dark with the headlamp, you blind them because you shine the light right in their eyes. It's the most annoying thing ever.
I bring layers. When I hike in, I'm wearing an orange hoodie, and have my orange jacket strapped to my pack. I also bring a vest and long underwear in the daypack, along with extra socks. I hike in about 3 1/2 miles and at the end there is a 600ft elevation gain, so it's easy to get overheated if I wear too much.
Bring spare batteries for anything that need it. For me that means AA for the GPS and AAA for the flashlight and head lamp.
If you're buying any new clothing or equipment, steer away from stuff with Velcro. Look for snaps or zippers. Opening Velcro is unlike any sound in nature, and it's impossible to pull apart Velcro silently. I really had to search to find gloves that I like that don't have Velcro.
The linked list is really good. And ditto on the aspirin/ibuprofen and water at night.
In addition to a seat pad thingy, I bring a turkey hunter's seat that gets me up off the ground about 3". It's much nicer than trying to be comfortable for hours on a spot that isn't exactly level or with a stick or a rock that is in the "wrong" place.
I bring a crap ton of water with me. I fill my hydration bladder and also a 1 liter bottle in my day pack. I head out way before it gets light, and make a cup of oatmeal over the little stove that I pack when I get to my spot. It's good to refuel, and something warm really helps in the morning.
I bring both a head lamp and a 2 cell AAA flashlight. When meeting people on the trail in the dark, I turn off the head lamp and turn on the flashlight. Most people don't realize that when you look at someone in the dark with the headlamp, you blind them because you shine the light right in their eyes. It's the most annoying thing ever.
I bring layers. When I hike in, I'm wearing an orange hoodie, and have my orange jacket strapped to my pack. I also bring a vest and long underwear in the daypack, along with extra socks. I hike in about 3 1/2 miles and at the end there is a 600ft elevation gain, so it's easy to get overheated if I wear too much.
Bring spare batteries for anything that need it. For me that means AA for the GPS and AAA for the flashlight and head lamp.
If you're buying any new clothing or equipment, steer away from stuff with Velcro. Look for snaps or zippers. Opening Velcro is unlike any sound in nature, and it's impossible to pull apart Velcro silently. I really had to search to find gloves that I like that don't have Velcro.
I've posted this before. Take a good compass . . . and take a second good compass. They will probably "agree" so you won't have to disagree with them or argue with others in your group. I am not kidding. You don't have to be a compass "expert" but a little study of the use of a compass will also help.
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johnwilliamson062
Moderator
If you have a good sleeping bag the moisture should be cleared out by your body heat.
Get an adjustable headlamp where you can orient the beam down. Almost all of princeton tec's lights have this feature. It allows you to keep your head up while walking and eliminates the blinding effect.
A compass or two... I'd use a GPS primarily, but having a compass and some idea how to use it as a back-up isn't a bad idea.
Good wool socks do make a difference to me. Not necessarily merino or "smart" but 100% wool and reasonably thick.
I don;t recommend the moleskin. I took one backpacking once. I received a lot of attention from wild animals at night.
Get your OWN sleeping bag no less than 0 Degree ratging..
for 2 o'clock in the AM is NOT the time to decide that you need a warmer bag.
A good night sleep is imperative!
Make a fannel liner bag for sleeping in, it will keep your bag cleaner.
A mini-mag AA light ALWAYS ON you, second in your sleeping bag.
Compass and map for you,don't rely on someone else.
Lighter and the food warmer tabs for making small fire.
Whistle around your neck
Space blanket unopend in pocket.
A CLEAR head and open mind, in case of emergency.
Have fun and enjoy. Show some pic's when you return
GOOD LUCK!
for 2 o'clock in the AM is NOT the time to decide that you need a warmer bag.
A good night sleep is imperative!
Make a fannel liner bag for sleeping in, it will keep your bag cleaner.
A mini-mag AA light ALWAYS ON you, second in your sleeping bag.
Compass and map for you,don't rely on someone else.
Lighter and the food warmer tabs for making small fire.
Whistle around your neck
Space blanket unopend in pocket.
A CLEAR head and open mind, in case of emergency.
Have fun and enjoy. Show some pic's when you return
GOOD LUCK!
Something else about sleeping bags.
You mentioned a cot.Good.I love having a cot.Helps keep you dry,too.
Bags must have compressable insulation,like down or poly fill.
That means the bag under you will be compressed to about zero thickness,and very little insulation.Most cots are zero for insulation.
One good solution is a Therma-rest self inflating sleeping pad on top of the cot.I do that.Therma-rests are great insulation.With the cot,you don't need a thick one.one inch is good.Lacking a thermarest,closed cell foam or even a folded wool blanket will be non compressable insulation.
If you are using a down bag,you must be very conscious of keeping it dry.Polyfill is more forgiving.Think about this.Your body gives off steam in the night.The down will be full of warm,moist air when you wake up.If you just get up and go ,the cold will condense that moisture.It may freeze.The tight weave of the bag cover does not circulate much air.Your bag will gradually lose effectiveness.(been using down in Colorado since I bought the Class 5 -20 bag in mid 1970's.Its still good)
So what to do about the condensation?You packed in with your bag in a stuff sack.First thing,while your bag is still warm,stuff it in the stuff sack.The moist air is squeezed out!!Then unstuff and fluff it.Dry air is drawn in.During your hunt,if you are in camp and the sun is shining,take your bag outside,open it up,and sun it for 1/2 hour or so.
You mentioned a cot.Good.I love having a cot.Helps keep you dry,too.
Bags must have compressable insulation,like down or poly fill.
That means the bag under you will be compressed to about zero thickness,and very little insulation.Most cots are zero for insulation.
One good solution is a Therma-rest self inflating sleeping pad on top of the cot.I do that.Therma-rests are great insulation.With the cot,you don't need a thick one.one inch is good.Lacking a thermarest,closed cell foam or even a folded wool blanket will be non compressable insulation.
If you are using a down bag,you must be very conscious of keeping it dry.Polyfill is more forgiving.Think about this.Your body gives off steam in the night.The down will be full of warm,moist air when you wake up.If you just get up and go ,the cold will condense that moisture.It may freeze.The tight weave of the bag cover does not circulate much air.Your bag will gradually lose effectiveness.(been using down in Colorado since I bought the Class 5 -20 bag in mid 1970's.Its still good)
So what to do about the condensation?You packed in with your bag in a stuff sack.First thing,while your bag is still warm,stuff it in the stuff sack.The moist air is squeezed out!!Then unstuff and fluff it.Dry air is drawn in.During your hunt,if you are in camp and the sun is shining,take your bag outside,open it up,and sun it for 1/2 hour or so.
Gunplummer
New member
Wyosmith has a good idea with the 20' of light rope. I have been carrying some in the deer hunting pack for years and it really comes in handy.
I have found that using old moving company furniture quilted blankets to be great - they keep you warm with their weight and insulation, and draped over coolers, they help keep things cold a few days longer than not using them. Besides, they are free to cheap from most places when they get a little too worn.
Times have changed.
I use to hunt moose in Alaska I would carry a rifle, a Case Pocket Knife. A pack board. Light rope, a GI Poncho w/liner. A canteen cup and another tin cup for coffee. Instant coffee, and tea, I used sugar in my tea so would mix it a head of time. Instant oatmeal. And a rifle of course. I smoked so I always had a lighter and matches. Also had a compass, but that was about it.
The whole set up, less rifle, weighed between 15-20 lbs.
I normally used a small boat. Would stay out for days at a time.
It doesn't take much to build a lean to shelter. You can keep quite warm between the fire and the lean too. Canteen cup would heat water for the coffee/tea and oat meal. Alaska was covered with spruce trees. Spruce trees are "magic trees" Best tree in the world, for fires, spruce tea, and even first aid and antibiotics. Its about first aid kit one needs.
For the last few years my kids and grandkids started nagging me about writing down some of my stories and adventures. I did, but I stopped letting them read it. They laugh and say I was an idiot. They can read it after I'm gone.
I use to hunt moose in Alaska I would carry a rifle, a Case Pocket Knife. A pack board. Light rope, a GI Poncho w/liner. A canteen cup and another tin cup for coffee. Instant coffee, and tea, I used sugar in my tea so would mix it a head of time. Instant oatmeal. And a rifle of course. I smoked so I always had a lighter and matches. Also had a compass, but that was about it.
The whole set up, less rifle, weighed between 15-20 lbs.
I normally used a small boat. Would stay out for days at a time.
It doesn't take much to build a lean to shelter. You can keep quite warm between the fire and the lean too. Canteen cup would heat water for the coffee/tea and oat meal. Alaska was covered with spruce trees. Spruce trees are "magic trees" Best tree in the world, for fires, spruce tea, and even first aid and antibiotics. Its about first aid kit one needs.
For the last few years my kids and grandkids started nagging me about writing down some of my stories and adventures. I did, but I stopped letting them read it. They laugh and say I was an idiot. They can read it after I'm gone.
To stay warm yet comfortable when working or should I say walking up hill for hours... leave the cotton at home. Your back packing shops such as REI will have capalian long sleeve under shirt that packs well and comes in different weights and wicks water well.
A down vest will keep you warm. Although wool vest will keep you warm dry even when wet and allow your body to breath. And a loose fitting wool shirt is a must in my hunts.
For that rifle a Harris bipod is very helpful especially when that hawk is blowing.
Don't forget the obvious A cigar lighter and Magnesium fire stick. Also some dry cotton ball waxed... kindling in a vip-lock.
If you have it in your budget (Filson) double tin cloth bibs will stop the wind, wet snow and are very very tuff. Also they will last for a good 30> years.
A long hooded parks would be a must to break the wind...
A down vest will keep you warm. Although wool vest will keep you warm dry even when wet and allow your body to breath. And a loose fitting wool shirt is a must in my hunts.
For that rifle a Harris bipod is very helpful especially when that hawk is blowing.
Don't forget the obvious A cigar lighter and Magnesium fire stick. Also some dry cotton ball waxed... kindling in a vip-lock.
If you have it in your budget (Filson) double tin cloth bibs will stop the wind, wet snow and are very very tuff. Also they will last for a good 30> years.
A long hooded parks would be a must to break the wind...
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shootniron
New member
If you pack all of the stuff listed in this thread...you will also need at least one Sherpa.
OK,the OP did say up front he was sleeping on a cot. 
I stand by the Merino woolsox and the map and compass. The ensolite butt pad,too.This pic taken just under 9000 ft in the Flattops Wilderness.We backpacked in.Camp was on dry ground when we went to bed.That fell overnight.Lots of lightning with it.Wild storm!!
It was a heavy pack.What we had came in handy
![381896_272350289494071_1433122142_n[1].jpg](https://orange.thefiringline.com/data/attachments/79/79806-d4651d7b48832cbd4f179fb25dbae5c4.jpg "381896_272350289494071_1433122142_n[1].jpg")
I stand by the Merino woolsox and the map and compass. The ensolite butt pad,too.This pic taken just under 9000 ft in the Flattops Wilderness.We backpacked in.Camp was on dry ground when we went to bed.That fell overnight.Lots of lightning with it.Wild storm!!
It was a heavy pack.What we had came in handy
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shortstop14
New member
It's a good idea to pack 2 compasses. That way you can check one against the other. Easy to magnitize one if kept in a pack or pocket with metals near it. Really important to have great (not good) footwear. Also pack 2 35mm film canisters...1 with alcohol soaked cotton balls, 1 with wax coated stick matches
themalicious0ne
New member
Johnwilliams,
I would highly recommend moleskin or an alternative second skin. Anything of the like to cover your blisters. It is a backpackers necessity. Most people don't properly break in their hiking boots. Even if they are properly broke in, hot spots happen. Especially for someone carrying 30+ lbs of equipment that their body is not used to carrying. Not to mention uneven terrain. If you develope a bad blister, your hunt will be miserable without something to help. When backpacking or hiking, your feet is the most important part of the journey next to hydration.
Always keep moleskin in a zip lock bad and as I stated before, an ursack would not be a bad idea. Keep anything smelly in a safe place and far from you. In one of my trips, the group right next to mine with their fire less than 10ft from me, a black bear walked an and grabbed the guys pack and took off. I have heard bears in the night try to get in a bear box and ursack before. Critters love smelly stuff. Deoderant, toothpaste, food, dishes, etc.
I'm pretty sure if you are bringing in food and camping for the night, moleskin won't be the denominator that gets your pack stolen. Have all your scented items in one place, not with you in the tent and in something a critter can't break in or take. Ursacks or electric fences are a little pricey but better than ruining your hunt losing your resources on a multi-day trip.
I would highly recommend moleskin or an alternative second skin. Anything of the like to cover your blisters. It is a backpackers necessity. Most people don't properly break in their hiking boots. Even if they are properly broke in, hot spots happen. Especially for someone carrying 30+ lbs of equipment that their body is not used to carrying. Not to mention uneven terrain. If you develope a bad blister, your hunt will be miserable without something to help. When backpacking or hiking, your feet is the most important part of the journey next to hydration.
Always keep moleskin in a zip lock bad and as I stated before, an ursack would not be a bad idea. Keep anything smelly in a safe place and far from you. In one of my trips, the group right next to mine with their fire less than 10ft from me, a black bear walked an and grabbed the guys pack and took off. I have heard bears in the night try to get in a bear box and ursack before. Critters love smelly stuff. Deoderant, toothpaste, food, dishes, etc.
I'm pretty sure if you are bringing in food and camping for the night, moleskin won't be the denominator that gets your pack stolen. Have all your scented items in one place, not with you in the tent and in something a critter can't break in or take. Ursacks or electric fences are a little pricey but better than ruining your hunt losing your resources on a multi-day trip.
johnwilliamson062
Moderator
Your right. My absolute misunderstanding. I had to look up what I was talking about.
I took a leather chamois, of which everyone was joking was a dead mole, leading me to believe it was actually mole skin. Apparently it was more likely goat skin. I never looked into that before. Your comment just brought it back that memory back to me and i didn't think about the other mole skin.
Break your boots in well before you go. Start by wearing them at home while watching TV or similar laced as tight as you can for about 40 hours. Then hike about 50 miles in them starting 2-3 miles at a time and working your way up to ten+. If you get blisters go back to wearing them as tightly as you can while stationary.
You are better off in tennis shoes than boots that don't fit or aren't broken in.
If I get blisters in the back country its ducktape for me. The only place I have ever gotten blisters with any shoes from hiking walking is my heel, and duct tape slides well in the heel of my shoe.
I use wiggy's bags. I once climbed into the 20* bag wet at 40*, temp dropped to about 25*, I woke up in the morning warm and dry with a thin ice shell on the outside of my bag. This was done in order to dry out my clothes as having a block of icy clothes next to my bag in the morning would be no good. My body heat pushed the water away from me as designed.
I also soaked the 40* bag once and dried it out sleeping in it overnight when the temp was a little over 50*.
Wool and down should also dry similarly as long as there is body heat in the bag.
The coldest i have slept in my 20* bag was 20* and I was comfortable except my exposed face, although I was scrunched up in my bag by morning so my face would not be exposed.
All that is on a thermarest z-lite foam pad over a blue construction tarp with no tent. Zipped together I'd probably be ok at -10*(the combined rating is 0*). They cost me about $150 a piece, but I saved $120 on my last business trip camping instead of staying in a hotel.
I took a leather chamois, of which everyone was joking was a dead mole, leading me to believe it was actually mole skin. Apparently it was more likely goat skin. I never looked into that before. Your comment just brought it back that memory back to me and i didn't think about the other mole skin.
Break your boots in well before you go. Start by wearing them at home while watching TV or similar laced as tight as you can for about 40 hours. Then hike about 50 miles in them starting 2-3 miles at a time and working your way up to ten+. If you get blisters go back to wearing them as tightly as you can while stationary.
You are better off in tennis shoes than boots that don't fit or aren't broken in.
If I get blisters in the back country its ducktape for me. The only place I have ever gotten blisters with any shoes from hiking walking is my heel, and duct tape slides well in the heel of my shoe.
I use wiggy's bags. I once climbed into the 20* bag wet at 40*, temp dropped to about 25*, I woke up in the morning warm and dry with a thin ice shell on the outside of my bag. This was done in order to dry out my clothes as having a block of icy clothes next to my bag in the morning would be no good. My body heat pushed the water away from me as designed.
I also soaked the 40* bag once and dried it out sleeping in it overnight when the temp was a little over 50*.
Wool and down should also dry similarly as long as there is body heat in the bag.
The coldest i have slept in my 20* bag was 20* and I was comfortable except my exposed face, although I was scrunched up in my bag by morning so my face would not be exposed.
All that is on a thermarest z-lite foam pad over a blue construction tarp with no tent. Zipped together I'd probably be ok at -10*(the combined rating is 0*). They cost me about $150 a piece, but I saved $120 on my last business trip camping instead of staying in a hotel.
Here's my equipment observations:
Rope - you cannot have enough rope for lashing quarters, dragging them, or hanging them.
Your own large coffee cup and or thermos - beats the heck out of a plastic cup any day.
A small, foldable camp shovel- for any digging, especially a proper cat hole.
Ammo - you'd be surprised how may people show up with only a few rounds or none at all because they forgot...double check!
A real canteen or other water container, including the camel type holders with a tube - plastic bottles are weak and can break in your pocket/pack, a disaster in cold/freezing weather. You need to hump a lot of water!
Good flashlights, get the high intensity type, they blow away the regular mag lights. A small one and a more powerful large one.
A headlamp that'll securely attach to a brimmed hat - essential when you gut and haul. And extra batteries for the darn thing when you discover it's has somehow turned itself on in your pack!
Large tarps with grommets for dragging out quarters or making an emergency shelter.
A small flask for whatever spirit you prefer- nice to share if things get tough or you want to celebrate with friends when you get one.
A knife sharpener- elk hide will dull your knife blade fast, and I mean really fast!
Large, contractor grade plastic bags (40 gallon or larger), and large zip lock bags - you'll want the strong contractor grade bags to protect quarters or big cuts of meat, and the tough, big zip locks plastic bags for your back straps and tenderloins. The regular size smaller plastic bags at the grocery store are too weak, too small, and tear too easily in the field.
Pain reliever pills (Advil, etc.) and tums or other antacids- for sore muscles, headaches, and acid stomach you might have to deal with due to hard work, altitude, or a bit of bottle fever from celebrating your elk (ahem ahem, lol).
Some kind of urine receptacle that you can use in your tent at night - so that when you have to go, you don't have to unzip that tent and wake up your tent mates going in or out of the tent. And it sucks to leave a tent and go outside when it's 10 degrees with a blowing wind!
A butane heater with a large (at least 5 gallon?) propane tank - you'll burn through those small tanks way too fast, so bring lots of them. And a good lantern with extra mantles (sp?).
A good sleepin pad that will insulate your cot.
A sidearm revolver in .357 magnum caliber- for wearing in camp or in the field after you've tagged out (you can't carry a rifle in the field after you've tagged out) - for security purposes. There ain't no law deep in the mountains, and no 911 available, so you need to be able to protect yourself from potential bad 2-legged creeps. At least it would have made me feel more secure.
That's all I can think of right now.
Rope - you cannot have enough rope for lashing quarters, dragging them, or hanging them.
Your own large coffee cup and or thermos - beats the heck out of a plastic cup any day.
A small, foldable camp shovel- for any digging, especially a proper cat hole.
Ammo - you'd be surprised how may people show up with only a few rounds or none at all because they forgot...double check!
A real canteen or other water container, including the camel type holders with a tube - plastic bottles are weak and can break in your pocket/pack, a disaster in cold/freezing weather. You need to hump a lot of water!
Good flashlights, get the high intensity type, they blow away the regular mag lights. A small one and a more powerful large one.
A headlamp that'll securely attach to a brimmed hat - essential when you gut and haul. And extra batteries for the darn thing when you discover it's has somehow turned itself on in your pack!
Large tarps with grommets for dragging out quarters or making an emergency shelter.
A small flask for whatever spirit you prefer- nice to share if things get tough or you want to celebrate with friends when you get one.
A knife sharpener- elk hide will dull your knife blade fast, and I mean really fast!
Large, contractor grade plastic bags (40 gallon or larger), and large zip lock bags - you'll want the strong contractor grade bags to protect quarters or big cuts of meat, and the tough, big zip locks plastic bags for your back straps and tenderloins. The regular size smaller plastic bags at the grocery store are too weak, too small, and tear too easily in the field.
Pain reliever pills (Advil, etc.) and tums or other antacids- for sore muscles, headaches, and acid stomach you might have to deal with due to hard work, altitude, or a bit of bottle fever from celebrating your elk (ahem ahem, lol).
Some kind of urine receptacle that you can use in your tent at night - so that when you have to go, you don't have to unzip that tent and wake up your tent mates going in or out of the tent. And it sucks to leave a tent and go outside when it's 10 degrees with a blowing wind!
A butane heater with a large (at least 5 gallon?) propane tank - you'll burn through those small tanks way too fast, so bring lots of them. And a good lantern with extra mantles (sp?).
A good sleepin pad that will insulate your cot.
A sidearm revolver in .357 magnum caliber- for wearing in camp or in the field after you've tagged out (you can't carry a rifle in the field after you've tagged out) - for security purposes. There ain't no law deep in the mountains, and no 911 available, so you need to be able to protect yourself from potential bad 2-legged creeps. At least it would have made me feel more secure.
That's all I can think of right now.
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