You are using an out of date browser. It may not display this or other websites correctly.
You should upgrade or use an alternative browser.
You should upgrade or use an alternative browser.
Is there a really good way to calculate wind drift
- Thread starter Dano4734
- Start date
I took a 1 mile shooting course. Wind was the hardest factor x 10.
The main instructor was excellent, and showed us how to see the effects of the wind based on ground signs.
The first guy on-target didn’t get there until the instructor realized there 3 wind shifts not 2 along the path and suggested corrections.
Good luck.
It’s clearly an art not a science.
The main instructor was excellent, and showed us how to see the effects of the wind based on ground signs.
The first guy on-target didn’t get there until the instructor realized there 3 wind shifts not 2 along the path and suggested corrections.
Good luck.
It’s clearly an art not a science.
Wind calling is an educated guess. Only the master competition shooters have consistent success. What is their proven method ? Rapid fire strings in between wind gusts ! I've tried calculating wind at my clubs 600 yd range when the conditions were cold and windy. Problem is I can scan all the distance flags and while the 500 yd flag will be 30 degrees l full value left to right, but 300 yd flag will be 60 degrees half value from right to left. My clubs 600 yd range can be a multi directional wind vortex. I've tried, i'm lousy at it and it just seems for me as a recreational shooter wind calling gets to be more of a waste of ammo. If I observe cold windy conditions I just bring out my 300 Win Mag and run the heavy 200+ gr bullets. Wind is not really a issue with this caliber at 600 yds
Winds up higher are the bugaboo. It is not a guess, or an art. It is certainly science. The problem is that we don't have enough gear, time and money to measure the winds along the path of the bullets flight (yet). For that reason, we have to take the data and indicators we do have a make a best estimate of the affect on the flight of the bullet. With more time and data, those estimates get better. I used to look at wind forecasts and avoid going to the range on windy days. Now I only practice IN the wind.
The wind speed at the ground is technically zero, the grasses a little more, your face a little more, trees a little more. Some bullets will be 20 to 30 feet above the ground shooting over flat ground out to say 1000 yards. So most people use the wind at the shooter, 5 or so feet above the bore, and go from there. But don't be scared to try other things during data collection sessions at the range. Also, vary the location. You need to shoot facing into the wind, wind at your back, N, E, S, W, off cliffs, over flats, etc. to confirm the data your cards or ballistic solver give you.
The grass and face give you a hint, but will usually be a little low. Wind at the shooter is more important than wind at the target. Mirage will also give you good data. Watching other shooters impacts, and traces, is of course the best data you can get if the wind does not change.
A spotting scope with very good glass, right behind a shooter, on 10 to 12x will usually let you see trace. With mine, I see it probably 90% of the time. Understanding what the trace is telling you is also important. When the bullet is always left of the trace, the wind is blowing right, and vice versa. Sometimes I see a snake and then I just go with no wind correction.
Also, when wind is an issue (700+ yards) so is terrain. How the wind moves around a bluff, canyon, over water, dark foliage, etc. all has a small effect. When you get out to 1000ish, you have to start to account for aerodynamic jump due to the wind as well. This was, for me, the final piece of the puzzle to hitting 1 MOA targets out past 1000 yards.
Rapid fire strings in between gusts is a losers method...knowing what the wind does is what skilled shooters do. Control what you can, adapt to the wind. Most of the LR matches I shoot require 1st round hit on steel, a few a second round hit can score.
The wind speed at the ground is technically zero, the grasses a little more, your face a little more, trees a little more. Some bullets will be 20 to 30 feet above the ground shooting over flat ground out to say 1000 yards. So most people use the wind at the shooter, 5 or so feet above the bore, and go from there. But don't be scared to try other things during data collection sessions at the range. Also, vary the location. You need to shoot facing into the wind, wind at your back, N, E, S, W, off cliffs, over flats, etc. to confirm the data your cards or ballistic solver give you.
The grass and face give you a hint, but will usually be a little low. Wind at the shooter is more important than wind at the target. Mirage will also give you good data. Watching other shooters impacts, and traces, is of course the best data you can get if the wind does not change.
A spotting scope with very good glass, right behind a shooter, on 10 to 12x will usually let you see trace. With mine, I see it probably 90% of the time. Understanding what the trace is telling you is also important. When the bullet is always left of the trace, the wind is blowing right, and vice versa. Sometimes I see a snake and then I just go with no wind correction.
Also, when wind is an issue (700+ yards) so is terrain. How the wind moves around a bluff, canyon, over water, dark foliage, etc. all has a small effect. When you get out to 1000ish, you have to start to account for aerodynamic jump due to the wind as well. This was, for me, the final piece of the puzzle to hitting 1 MOA targets out past 1000 yards.
Rapid fire strings in between gusts is a losers method...knowing what the wind does is what skilled shooters do. Control what you can, adapt to the wind. Most of the LR matches I shoot require 1st round hit on steel, a few a second round hit can score.
Shoot at various ranges with various wind conditions. Take meticulous notes. Do it again, reference the notes. When you see trends (distance and wind speed = shot placement) you can start to get an idea. There is software that will get you close, but you have to collect your own data to know for certain.
You can buy a Kestrel wind meter for around $80.
They have a DVD: "How to Dope the Wind Beyond Belief" --- which includes long range shooters like David Tubb, from the Long Range Store
https://www.longrangestore.com/video_s/77.htm
They have a DVD: "How to Dope the Wind Beyond Belief" --- which includes long range shooters like David Tubb, from the Long Range Store
https://www.longrangestore.com/video_s/77.htm
Last edited:
Thank you so much. I suck 300 yards yes fine. 500+ yards ugh. I am right there on a beautiful calm day. Give me wind and I can’t hit an elephant in the butt with a snow shovel. I been a bush hunter my whole life. Now long range targets I never really did but it’s so much fun. I think it’s more of a mental block
Last edited:
Don Fischer
New member
I don't do very much long range shooting past 300yds but when I do, if there's a wind, I miss! Have no idea how to guess, I said guess, the speed of the wind correctly! I read an article on it once and it claimed you can set the parallax to half the distance to the target and see the mirage move in the scope, think that's what it was. I find it easier to walk closer to the target!
Reading the wind is something you need to learn not calculate. On a big military range, you can have different wind speeds at different distances. That's why there are range flags. Learning to read mirage helps.
Elephants really hate being whacked on the butt with snow shovels. Elephants are among the few critters that will actively hunt you if you PO 'em too. snicker.
Elephants really hate being whacked on the butt with snow shovels. Elephants are among the few critters that will actively hunt you if you PO 'em too. snicker.
Wind travels in a series of waves, usually in a sequence lasting about 5 to 7 minutes. A pause in the wind is a bad time to crack-off a shot, because it possibly signifies a soon to be change in wind direction. Usually...you'll never be fast enough too execute a shot when there is a pause in the wind.
Try to shoot when the wind flags are all flying in the same direction. Sometimes I tie a thin sewing thread near the muzzle and use it as a wind flag. Except for long range shots, the wind affects the bullet's trajectory the most where it exits the muzzle.
Focus your spotting scope about 5 or 10 yards in front of the target, so you can see the wind mirage better.
Try to shoot when the wind flags are all flying in the same direction. Sometimes I tie a thin sewing thread near the muzzle and use it as a wind flag. Except for long range shots, the wind affects the bullet's trajectory the most where it exits the muzzle.
Focus your spotting scope about 5 or 10 yards in front of the target, so you can see the wind mirage better.
I do not claim to be skilled at doping wind.
I suggest there is something to be learned from watching a river....one that has some current and rocks and eddies .
You don't see one homogeneous current,as you might in a concrete lined canal.
There are a multitude of threads of currents,each traveling at different speeds and directions.Eddies,riffles,shear lines...Current speeds up through narrows and drops,etc.Air and water don't flow exactly the same,but it gives an idea.
Wind does flow with topography,upstream as it warms,downstream as it cools.
A river tripper gets his miles downstream in early,because well,I've literally had the canoe I was paddling blown upstream against the current by warm upstream afternoon winds. Sometimes you make more progress sitting on the bank.
And I've had an up gully afternoon wind reverse as the sun lowered and the air cooled. It carried my scent down the gully I was watching over. I heard the cow elk bark as a result.
I'm just suggesting more ways to try to understand the wind.
I suggest there is something to be learned from watching a river....one that has some current and rocks and eddies .
You don't see one homogeneous current,as you might in a concrete lined canal.
There are a multitude of threads of currents,each traveling at different speeds and directions.Eddies,riffles,shear lines...Current speeds up through narrows and drops,etc.Air and water don't flow exactly the same,but it gives an idea.
Wind does flow with topography,upstream as it warms,downstream as it cools.
A river tripper gets his miles downstream in early,because well,I've literally had the canoe I was paddling blown upstream against the current by warm upstream afternoon winds. Sometimes you make more progress sitting on the bank.
And I've had an up gully afternoon wind reverse as the sun lowered and the air cooled. It carried my scent down the gully I was watching over. I heard the cow elk bark as a result.
I'm just suggesting more ways to try to understand the wind.