Is raw linseed oil a benefit to any milsurp wood?

[Unclenick]

The reason for using oil finishes is they are repairable. Most of the polyurethane finishes and epoxies have to be removed completely because they won't adhere and blend well once they are set and dry. But a bad spot on an oil finish may be sanded just enough to remove the damage then re-oiled and, with enough coats it blends properly.

We went through this topic recently, but I'll repeat some highlights.

Things labeled Danish Oil or Tung Oil Finish often have no natural oil at all. Their names mean they give a finish that looks like an oil finish of the type they describle. You have to check the MSDS to find out if they have any real oil or not. IIRC, the last time I looked (maybe a decade ago) Deft Danish Oil had a little linseed oil in it but Watco Danish oil had none. Both were mainly polyurethane resins. They do look good, and I have done two Garand stocks with them, and, in particular, have taken advantage of the colored versions available to get birch to match walnut pretty well, but I've not had to repair these finishes.

Linseed Oil. Three forms:

Raw. This has all the problems already mentioned. If it really was used to make Enfield stocks, I'd guess there either were driers added or the stocks were hanged in a drying room with enough heat to have some of the same effect as boiling.

Boiled. As the name suggests, this oil is literally boiled which drives off lighter, more viscous volatiles and I expect slightly polymerizes it. It's lousy at moisture protection, though. It'll take a water mark like lightning, and that's the result of water permeating it.

Polymerized. Polymerized linseed has been baked in an inert atmosphere at about 500°F until it thickens, indicating its molecules have cross-linked to some desired degree. This allows it to dry well and the longer molecules overlay to form an excellent moisture barrier. Tru-oil, though an oil blend, is this type of oil.

There is also polymerized tung oil available. Both polymerized linseed and polymerized tung oil behave more like a varnish than an oil in some regards, and are thinned in mineral spirits.

 

[wogpotter]

If it really was used to make Enfield stocks, I'd guess there either were driers added or the stocks were hanged in a drying room with enough heat to have some of the same effect as boiling.

The process was very different from hand rubbing small dabs of room temperature oils.
Giant vats were heated & the stocks immersed in them to "soak", after this the stocks were "drip-dryed" over the same vats.

If actual "boiling" is the entire process used to make BLO from RLO is debatable.

 

[HiBC]

If you look at the old 1930's gunsmith books,like Baker,they at length describe the BLO process,and,at the time,it was the standard of "proper" gun finish.
On my Garand and my Springfield,I'll either use BLO,or mix a little beeswax/turp with it.I don't get crazy with it,I consider it maintenance of the original finish.A few drops,well rubbed in.
I really don't want the sporting rifle sheen on my Milsurps.

And,IMO,I would stick with the old BLO in very small amounts on old antique guns that have an oil finish,just to maintain the original finish.

Regarding the Brits and the oil vat..I'll just guess,at the outbreak of WW1 or the Blitzkreig,choices were less about being cheap,and more about"How can we maximize our limited resources "

Perhaps the better materials went to build airframe and skin on a Spitfire.