Is raw linseed oil a benefit to any milsurp wood?

[Ignition Override]

As Loew's does not have it, nor the woodworking store (both have only Boiled linseed), a Loew's saleslady told me about flaxseed oil at Wholefoods, as it is raw linseed. Google confirmed this. Anyway, I've just begun a weekly habit of using it on my Enfield stocks.

Never before have I rubbed any sort of oil on wood, nor learned to do any very light sanding, staining or Other wood treatment.
This is The First attempt with wood. Late in life, but better than never.

Is the raw oil not a benefit to any other classic wood, such as my Spanish FR8s, Garands, or pair of Yugo M59 SKS?

 

[HiBC]

Traditionally it is boiled linseed oil you use on gunstock wood.

The old gunsmith books specified "kettle boiled"

Till I found out for sure,I'd not use the raw.

I'd also not use the boiled as a food product.

Beginning with a very dry stock...maybe once a week for a few weeks would be ok,but long term,thats a bit much.

Use very little,drops,and rub till the wood gets warm.

You want it more "in" the wood than "on" the wood.

You do not want a gummy goo buildup on the stock.

On your milsurps,for a number of reasons I'd stay away from sandpaper.

While clean is good,original cartouches,stamps,etc and original"battle patina" are desirable.You do not want to wash out the detail.

And while you are rubbing in those few drops of oil,linseed on the metal is not a good thing.

Have fun!

 

[Ignition Override]

Thanks. Am well aware of cartouches etc, such as those on my CMP Garands, and the value lost by the wrong type of treatment. A buddy (former coworker) who retired from the Navy Rifle Team pointed out a few things like that.

Reading a bit at Gunboards and Surplusrifle, originally the Enfield stocks were dipped in raw linseed oil, unless these reports are not accurate.
My vague impression is that the BLO blocks moisture from penetrating the wood, but can give it a shine or other appearance which is not original.

 

[Scorch]

Is raw linseed oil a benefit to any milsurp wood?

No. Neither is boiled linseed oil. They soften the wood and do not seal it. They do keep the wood from drying out. I despise the stuff.

 

[Ignition Override]

Peter Laidler, the senior UK Armorer confirmed in whichever book or report that raw linseed was applied to Enfields.

Which other type of oil, maybe Tru Oil, gives various wood types their original looks, while offering some long-term protection?

Scorch: One of my Enfields, a "Jungle" (#5) looked so bone dry that it needed any acceptable type. The guns which received it so far have just one layer of the raw linseed.
Why do you despise both the raw and boiled?

 

[mete]

Real raw linseed oil will never dry !! It will always be soft and sticky !!
Proper linseed oil has driers added .After putting on a fairly heavy coating [first coating can be thinned for better penetration] After an hour or two rub with burlap to remove excess. Wait a day , then repeat .This shpould be done at least 6 times .Be patient . Over time it will become harder and more moisture resistant.

 

[Gunplummer]

I can't stand the stuff either. I would sooner rub AT fluid into the wood, at least it waterproofs it. I am really not a fan of shiny stocks either. I use Danish Oil if it is somewhat of a "Looker" gun. I would be leary of what was on military rifles originally. Many times it was what was available and cheap. I used to collect Arisakas and to restore stocks I used orange shellac. Originally there was some type of shellac on them. The drawback is on a really hot day the shellac softens up in the sun. I would not put it on a gun I was going to use out in the woods. If you are going for the original look, I guess you have to use what was on it. You have to remember that years back there really were not many options for stock treatments and that is why some of the lousy stuff was used.

 

[T. O'Heir]

Danish oil is a commercial wood finish made of tung or polymerized linseed oil.
Tru-Oil is commercial and is a blend of tung oil and other stuff.
Raw linseed oil doesn't dry. It's for treating constipated cattle.
BLO dries, but not shiney.
"...originally the Enfield stocks were dipped in raw linseed oil..." Because it was cheap. Nobody, but nobody was as cheap as the Brits when it came to supplying any thing to their army.

 

[gunnut69]

For military stocks I use a product called 'Okene' . It is made of a blend of oils, including 'pine oil'. It is quite thin and will penetrate wonderfully. No buildup like TruOil so not shiny. they list it as 'French oil'. Apply a heavy coat to wood lightly heated with an electric heat gun. As the wood cools the oil is absorbed so replace it. When cooled allow to sit 15 minutes or so and wipe of the material on the woods surface. Let it sit a couple of days. Can be repeated as needed. If you need water proofing use a carnuba wax.. I use one made for counter tops...

 

[Gunplummer]

Yes wax, forgot about that. I used to (Still do) put car wax on and under the barrel of the forearm section of my hunting guns. Lot of moisture gets in there and by season end you have rust.

 

[Scorch]

Scorch: .
Why do you despise both the raw and boiled?

They soften the wood, and they add no protection to it. And as linseed oil ages, it goes rancid and smells awful when you work on the wood. If feel like you just have to oil your wood, use tung oil or teak oil. Or paste wax! Or anything!

 

[Ignition Override]

Scorch:
Will follow you guys' advice to avoid any more raw or boiled linseed oil. My wife might use this flax seed oil in a recipe.

Basically I just want to protect them, enhance the color (if possible) but avoid any unnatural shine, especially the shiny surface on one of my Enfield "Jungles", the chocolate brown done by the Malaysians.

 

[Drm50]

Boiled linseed

We have used boiled linseed in our family since before my time. My dad would drag old varnish off with edge of broken glass. Raise out dents and gouges with
steam. Lite sanding, finish up with pumice. He would then heat the boiled
linseed, apply heavy coat and wrap in rag to set overnight. Then wipe and rub
with soft cloth. Set up for about 1 week at room temp. then would apply lite coats hand rubbed in about 3 times. Then every year after season would hand
rub a lite coat. We had a M1 carbine that looked like it was glass from this
method. Never had any sticky guns with this method. We did this to rifles and
shotguns. I still have a Stevens single shot and a 30/30 with linseed finish.
They are not soft or sticky and still look good. You just have to know what you
are doing. It takes time, effort, and know how.

 

[MoGas1341]

I personally have found boiled linseed oil to bring out a nice 'luster' to the wood, and while it may be true that it softens it, I apply it in small amounts with my thumb, rubbing it in like putting on sunscreen until it is spread out and it isn't slick anymore. I then take a terry cloth towel and buff off the extra that may be on the surface and let it dry out until the next day. I only do this once every couple 2 or 3 years, basically when whatever rifle feels like its getting too dry.

I also use carnuba wax (yes, like the turtle wax for cars) to rub on and buff out just as Daniel-son did in the Karate Kid movie. If all the excess wax is removed properly, it provides a decent protective coat and gives the wood a dull luster. I have done this to my M70 and '03 Springer and they look fantastic. I found on the M70 (because it is my go-to woods rifle) that when small scratches and such appear, they are easily honed out, just like a car.

Long story short, I feel that boiled linseed oil is a benefit to the wood should it be too dry, but it should not be overdone. My opinion though, best of luck!

(I agree with DRM50 even though our methods are a bit different)

 

[603Country]

BLO works Ok. I've used it on gunstocks and had fine results. But, these days I'd be more inclined to use Tung Oil. I have never observed BLO softening wood and I have never had any turn rancid.

Do not use raw linseed oil.

Another oil that looks good on wood is Walnut Oil. And the Tung Oil I mentioned is real and pure Tung Oil, and not what is the wiping varnish and oil mixture that is labelled as Tung Oil. You can order the real Tung Oil from Woodcraft on the Internet.

I make a lot of small wooden kitchen things for family and friends. The Tung Oil holds up better under repeated washing than BLO and Mineral Oil. The Walnut Oil is still being 'tested'.

 

[psalm7]

When I worked in a Gun Shop we used boiled linseed oil for old vintage firearms . I never liked it even the boiled linseed oil does not dry like a good protective finish . One old timer came in and mentioned that after you have applied several coats of linseed wipe the whole stock down with black grease then wipe it off it seemed to work but why go through that . Linseed oil takes a dozen coats . I like tru oil for gun stocks I can make it high gloss or hunter flat it seals , protects and makes a good solid finish . For a while we made our own type of truoil with linseed oil , tung oil and one other item , I do not remember the other additive or how much of each .

 

[psalm7]

The other item was turpentine . 1/2 half boiled linseed 1/4 tung 1/4 turpentine . Not worth the trouble since you can just buy truoil but works .

 

[jimbob86]

Real raw linseed oil will never dry !! It will always be soft and sticky !!

You did not rub it enough.

You have to rub it. For-near-to-EVAR.

 

[zxcvbob]

I've read somewhere about using a mixture of BLO, beeswax, and turpentine. Anybody heard of this?

 

[Dixie Gunsmithing]

The only two oil brands I'll use, are from Birchwood Casey and Chem-Pak. Birchwood manufactures Tru-Oil in both liquid and aerosol, which the latter is thinned. Chem-Pak manufactures Gun Sav'r aerosol, and Pro-Custom Oil liquid finish.

For poly, I've had good success with Rust-Oleum's Specialty Polyurethane for furniture. It's an aerosol available in gloss and semi-gloss.