How to do the world's best oil finish

[Dfariswheel]

You're allowing the coats to dry TOO long.

You want to allow the coats to dry just to a slightly tacky state that can still be buffed off.
Per the can's directions, if it's too tacky, apply a little more oil to soften the coat then buff.

On the final "color coat", use a thin coat, and buff within just a very few minutes, since it tacks-up much faster than the earlier coats.
As with most finishes, as the grain is filled up, the coats start drying faster and faster.
For buffing, I use old LINEN sheets, not flannel. These are fairly lint-free.

Just don't let the coats dry so long.

 

[intruder]

Great post thanks

 

[puff-tmd]

Thank you for the quick update. Earlier I had tried re-applying a bit of finish when it got tacky and that did help some. The winter air is really dry where I am working, so will try cutting the drying time down more. Overall, this looks like it will be a nice, streak-free finish.

 

[sophijo]

two amateur questions

Thanks...great info....I was going to use linseed.
Recently found a '52 Winchester 94; carried one all over Michigan's UP 45 years ago.

1. Do I have to remove the ammo tube to get the fore-end off?
2. Should I seal the "inside" ; action inleting of the stock?
and BTW; what are the problems with linseed oil?....and why are hollow ground screw drivers important to this work?........sorry to ramble and I appreciate the time and effort it takes to "school" guys like me.

 

[EJJR]

Very interesting; Im refinishing an oiled guitar and this looks much better than the tung oil.

On a side note; for final polishing, untreated polishing cloth for musical instrument works really well.

http://www.musiciansfriend.com/product/Fender-Untreated-Polish-Cloth?sku=420053


If the more durable synthetics are preferable you can try these, an added benefit is they work w/o additional polish.

http://www.musiciansfriend.com/product/Planet-Waves-Microfiber-Polishing-Cloth?sku=420985

 

[Dfariswheel]

:sophijo

In order:

Yes, you have to remove the magazine tube to get the fore arm off.
Usually if you remove the barrel band and the magazine cap screw, the tube will slide straight out.

Yes, you should seal the inside of the wood. I pay special attention to the butt area which is open grain and will absorb water if not sealed.
I just paint the interior and butt area with coats, and allow to dry, then more.
"Usually" two coats is enough on the inletting, with more on the butt area.

The "problem" with linseed oil is that it doesn't really dry that hard.
Put a drop of Minwax and a drop of linseed, or any other finish on a piece of glass and allow to dry.
The linseed will be a crumbly substance, not glass-hard like the minwax.
The linseed is not all that waterproof on wood, but was long used simply because it worked in the days before modern finishes.

Gunsmith's hollow ground screwdrivers have straight surfaces, both on the flat, and on the sides.
Look at a standard screwdriver and you'll see that they have TAPERED, wedge-shaped surfaces.
When you use a standard screwdriver, the flat surface is tapered and this only contacts the screw on the very top of the slot.
This causes the slot to get bent and deformed. Since it only grips at the top, if the screw is tight, you run the risk of either damaging the slot, or breaking the screw head.

The sides of the standard screwdriver are also tapered. This means that for screws that are recessed in a hole, the standard blade will scar up the sides of the hole.
Both of these situations mean that screws get "dinked" up" or torn up, and these burred heads tell everyone that some amateur has been playing around with the gun.

Gunsmith's screwdrivers have hollow ground flats, which means that when the driver is put in a screw, the driver contacts the SIDES of the screw slot, and all the force is on the entire slot, not just the very top.
This prevents tearing up the top of the slot, and since the force is spread over the entire depth of the slot, there's much less chance of breaking the screw.

Since the sides are also straight, the screwdriver will not contact the hole the screw is in and won't tear up the hole.

 

[sophijo]

thankyou

Many thanks!!!
Dave

 

[JWT]

I had used Minwax Antique Oil many times to finish clock cases but never condisered it for gun stocks until reading these posts. I'm in the process of refinishing a stock from an old 22 rim fire Stevens semiautomatic and was trying to decide what to use for a finish coat. After reading all the posts I decided on the Antique Oil. The job is not completed yet, but the results thus far are great.

 

[fisherman66]

Sure would be nice to have the pictures reposted since they stale expired. I'm getting ready to do a new stock in the not too distant future. I bookmarked this page ages ago. I'm glad to see the thread revived.

 

[Dfariswheel]

Here ya go:

 

[Bosshoff]

Puff-tmd

Puff or anyone else, if you are having problems with lint being deposited along withthe stain, try applying it with medical gauze patches. I have done this with good results. I actually picked up a sponge from the hardware store which is covered with a gauze outer layer. This worked very well on a Rem 870 stock set.

 

[fisherman66]

Thanks for reposting DFW.

How do you like your William's Peep? What would you guestimate the FOV at 100 yards? inches? I have a W94 that needs some help.

 

[Dfariswheel]

I like the Williams 5D.
The Foolproof has "click" adjustments, while the 5D is adjusted by loosening gib screws and moving the sight.

Most owners of .22's seldom adjust the sights once they get it sighted in, and the 5D costs about half the $60.00 the Foolproof does.
Another thing I like, is that the 5D peep section isn't as wide as the Foolproof.
The Foolproof sticks way out on the right side of the Marlin, to the point where I'd almost worry about bumping it.

I'm not sure what the FOV is on the Williams supplied aperture, but they sell other eye pieces with much smaller apertures, and larger ones also.

I may eventually try a smaller eye piece for the 5D.