How can I stop top strap erosion?
- Thread starter totaldla
- Start date
orion_engnr said:
I'm no expert, as I've only 150 rounds or so through mine, but I've found a couple of ways to make the recoil livable. So I don't think it is near as bad as some would describe it. But I don't have carpal, arthritis, busted bones, etc. either.
The 4" barrel makes it difficult to hit those "magnum" velocities, which is probably good.
I've been told by people who've shot both that the Scandium J-Frame .357's are actually even worse in the recoil department than the 329 (though I'm sure both will certainly get your attention). I'm guessing that the more substantial grip of the 329 is the most likely cause of this.
In my opinion, grip shape and material is a HUGE factor effecting perceived recoil with an ultra-lightweight revolver. The next biggest issue is where you place the grip in your hand. You can afford a sloppy grip with a 3.5lb 357mag, but I know bad technique will make itself painfully obvious with a 16oz version. And regardless of technique, you are still going to get pounded with the ultra-light - there's really no way around it. It's the price we pay for enjoying the light carry weight.
orionengnr
New member
I guess I'll leave those Scandium jobbies to you youngsters 
More power to you. I sure like my .357 and .41 Magnums, but I like them in steel N-frames.
In any event, I think that replaceable sacrificial blast shield was a stroke of genius. Far better than letting the top strap deal with it.
More power to you. I sure like my .357 and .41 Magnums, but I like them in steel N-frames.
In any event, I think that replaceable sacrificial blast shield was a stroke of genius. Far better than letting the top strap deal with it.
Flame cutting the topstrap is a self limiting problem
Sure, it looks nasty, but once the metal is "cut" away, it stops, because the flame from the powder blast no longer has the energy to erode the steel, due to the increased distance.
Now, the question is, does the reduction of metal in the eroded area significantly weaken the frame?
I don't know. All the guns I have seen cut have had a shallow groove, only a very small percentage of the metal in that area. I'm sure this does weaken the frame, from an empirical standpoint, but does it weaken the frame from a practical standpoint? I don't know.
With one of the alloy frame guns, is this a more serious issue? Again, I don't know. But what I do know is...
That there is no free lunch. Lightweight guns wear out, faster than bigger heavier ones. What you are giving up for the ease of carry is longevity. Now, I think you will still be buying the gun several times over in ammo costs, before it reaches the end of its safe service life, so ask yourself, for what you pay, how long should it last?
And be prepared to accept an answer you don't like.
Sure, it looks nasty, but once the metal is "cut" away, it stops, because the flame from the powder blast no longer has the energy to erode the steel, due to the increased distance.
Now, the question is, does the reduction of metal in the eroded area significantly weaken the frame?
I don't know. All the guns I have seen cut have had a shallow groove, only a very small percentage of the metal in that area. I'm sure this does weaken the frame, from an empirical standpoint, but does it weaken the frame from a practical standpoint? I don't know.
With one of the alloy frame guns, is this a more serious issue? Again, I don't know. But what I do know is...
That there is no free lunch. Lightweight guns wear out, faster than bigger heavier ones. What you are giving up for the ease of carry is longevity. Now, I think you will still be buying the gun several times over in ammo costs, before it reaches the end of its safe service life, so ask yourself, for what you pay, how long should it last?
And be prepared to accept an answer you don't like.
Could be worse. One of my dealers showed me what was left of a new 340 PD which blew up in a customer's hand - while he was shooting .38 specials. He had three of the four pieces of the cylinder - the other is, apparently, still in orbit.
As a Smith & Wesson collector, I find the new guns embarrassing.
If I carry a revolver, it's this:
As a Smith & Wesson collector, I find the new guns embarrassing.
If I carry a revolver, it's this:
grubbylabs
New member
Well I am in the market for one of these light weight revolvers for two reasons. 1st is I archery hunt where there are lots of bears and wolves. 2nd I am on foot when I hunt and I cover lots of ground usually, so light weight while hiking is important. I think that most who buy a gun like this don't buy it because we want a cool or different rang toy, but rather something that could stop a grumpy sow with cubs, or send a wolf rolling. I am not sure just how much I will shoot it once I have one but I am sure that it won't be a lot but just enough to know where the bullet it going and what to expect when I do pull the bang switch.
grubbylabs
New member
I have started to look for one, two shops around have them in stock and the rest say get on the list, know I just have to sell a dog to come up with the money. Any one want a started hunting lab?
Peter M. Eick
New member
On my Supermag's I only use stick powders and no ball powders. I use the pencil technique and I have kept the cutting to a mild amount.
I read a long test about the Supermags that pointed out it is the sand blasting effect of high pressure gasses and fine ball powders that was doing the cutting. Staying with 4227 over h110 seems to help a lot.
I read a long test about the Supermags that pointed out it is the sand blasting effect of high pressure gasses and fine ball powders that was doing the cutting. Staying with 4227 over h110 seems to help a lot.
I'll have to say that I've never seen and never heard of the topstrap of a revolver breaking because of flame cutting. As others have mentioned, it's more of a cosmetic issue, though I do look for it when buying a used revolver for an indication of number of rounds and overall condition.
The issue is usually more because of lightweight .357 rounds. The theory is that the heavier bullets exit the cylinder a little later than lighter bullets, allowing more of the propellant to burn before hitting the cylinder gap and allowing less plasma to hit the forcing cone and topstrap.
I've accepted flame cutting as a fact of life. I've never seen it in any of my .357s after I've fired 158 gr. magnum rounds, and of course, I've never seen it with anything that comes in .38. But, just a few rounds of 125 gr. magnums put an obvious crease in the topstraps of my 27 and 686. I've seen no subsequent enlargement of these grooves, notwithstanding that both of these guns are in my regular rotation and get shot a lot.