Grease on slide rails is no good
- Thread starter Master Blaster
- Start date
I used to clean and lube with CLP, and never had a problem. Then I switched to lubing with LP on exposed areas (1911 slide rails, barrel link, etc.) and a graphite/moly engine assembly grease on closed areas (mainspring, hammer/sear). Still no problem. Now, I use Wilson Ultima Lube oil and grease for the specified applications, and . . . still have no problems. I do use the grease on the rails and barrel of my carry gun, to keep it in place long-term; but I think adequate lubrication is the key, more than what product is used for the lubricating. I read that some SAS guy dipped his Hi-Power in gin, as the the slight oil content of the berries used gin-making left a thin lubricant on the gun, without attracting a lot of dust. Hmmm, peanut butter sandwiches and gin might be a good shooter's diet!
First of all, police armorours tend to be regular cops who were sent to the factory for training to maintain the department's guns.
THEY ARE NOT "REAL" GUNSMITHS! If they mess up a gun, they don't pay or lose business.
Blaster, I only trust the advice of salty old guys who have been gunsmiths at least half of my age and I'm almost 40 something.
Almost every gunsmith I know in the Seattle area uses gun grease on their rails, especially for mouseguns and 1911s since slide velocity impacts them most. The wider the slide rail, the greater need for grease.
BreakFree does evaporate and unless you want to constantly lube your gun, grease on high friction points is the most efficient way to reduce friction. Grease sticks, oil doesn't.
BTW - How fast is your slide moving rearward after your bullet exits your barrel - real fast.
Grease it baby!
------------------
The Seattle SharpShooter - TFL/GT/UGW/PCT/KTOG
[This message has been edited by jtduncan (edited July 14, 2000).]
THEY ARE NOT "REAL" GUNSMITHS! If they mess up a gun, they don't pay or lose business.
Blaster, I only trust the advice of salty old guys who have been gunsmiths at least half of my age and I'm almost 40 something.
Almost every gunsmith I know in the Seattle area uses gun grease on their rails, especially for mouseguns and 1911s since slide velocity impacts them most. The wider the slide rail, the greater need for grease.
BreakFree does evaporate and unless you want to constantly lube your gun, grease on high friction points is the most efficient way to reduce friction. Grease sticks, oil doesn't.
BTW - How fast is your slide moving rearward after your bullet exits your barrel - real fast.
Grease it baby!
------------------
The Seattle SharpShooter - TFL/GT/UGW/PCT/KTOG
[This message has been edited by jtduncan (edited July 14, 2000).]
GIT_SOME.45
New member
I use what they call " TRI-FLOW ", which is a teflon based spray lubricant that locksmiths use for locks, doesn`t gum like old WD-40 and when the oily part evaporates, it still leaves a very thin coat of teflon based lubricant on all surfaces. Doesn`t freeze, or burn up... 
F.W.I.W.
------------------
SHOOT,COMMUNICATE AND MOVE OUT !
F.W.I.W.
------------------
SHOOT,COMMUNICATE AND MOVE OUT !
Hey Siggy: I was wondering if anyone used Snap On air tool oil. I have some I use on my knives, and may try it on my guns as well.
It seems to be really pure oil, and will probably fight corrosion.
I currently grease the slide/hammer interfaces with 5% moly compound and oil the slides. I like CLP, but I can't stand the smell.
------------------
And if you hear from my Louise, won't you tell her I love her so?
It seems to be really pure oil, and will probably fight corrosion.
I currently grease the slide/hammer interfaces with 5% moly compound and oil the slides. I like CLP, but I can't stand the smell.
------------------
And if you hear from my Louise, won't you tell her I love her so?
I started using Stihl lithium chainsaw sprocket grease on my gun rails years ago after a Marine gunny armorer told me about it. Said "think of the abuse and grim a chainsaw goes through and how well they hold up." Well he convinced me and I have never regreted it. I have started using Slick 50 all in one lube on all the moving parts of my guns. Good stuff. Yet, I still find myself reaching for that tube of chainsaw grease on occaision.
Mike Irwin
Staff
Bullseye,
The "owner's manual" isn't always the best source of information on how to care for a product.
Take your car for instance. Many, even as recently as a few years ago, made the blanket recommendation to change the oil every 7,500 miles or so, and change the filter every OTHER oil change!
------------------
Beware the man with the S&W .357 Mag.
Chances are he knows how to use it.
The "owner's manual" isn't always the best source of information on how to care for a product.
Take your car for instance. Many, even as recently as a few years ago, made the blanket recommendation to change the oil every 7,500 miles or so, and change the filter every OTHER oil change!
------------------
Beware the man with the S&W .357 Mag.
Chances are he knows how to use it.
I've been collecting and testing pistol lubes since '76.
I use BreakFree CLP for all lube chores, except sometimes I feel frisky and use TetraGrease on sears, slide stop holes in my EAA barrels, and rails.
When I go to a REALLY BIG match I clean off the grease and run BreakFree only.
If I was limited to ONE lube it would be BreakFree CLP.
(My 1911 is coming back from Robar with their no-lube NP3 coating. There, problem solved.)
------------------
"All my ammo is factory ammo"
I use BreakFree CLP for all lube chores, except sometimes I feel frisky and use TetraGrease on sears, slide stop holes in my EAA barrels, and rails.
When I go to a REALLY BIG match I clean off the grease and run BreakFree only.
If I was limited to ONE lube it would be BreakFree CLP.
(My 1911 is coming back from Robar with their no-lube NP3 coating. There, problem solved.)
------------------
"All my ammo is factory ammo"