Glock 22

jcsturgeon

New member
I just purchased a new Glock 22 and while I like it a lot, I'm always looking for ways to make my guns better. I've heard a lot of talk about putting a NY-1 spring in and a 3.5 pound trigger. Anyone done this? Is it a worthwhile mod?
 

Gen3Glock22

New member
I left mine alone, it's got a great trigger now. You never said what generation yours is. The gen 4 has a added bump on the trigger bar that some say add to slighty heavier pull, some grind it off.
 

jcsturgeon

New member
Mine's a gen 3. I had a gen 3 Glock 17 that I liked okay, but it was redundant with my Beretta 92FS also being a full sized 9mm. I just wonder if these alterations could help make the Glock smoother.
 

batmann

New member
I have left the trigger alone, but I did add a Streamlight TLR-3 weapon light to mine. I am not much for messing around with triggers on any of my guns.
 

frigate88

New member
I tricked mine out for the hell of it to have one tacticool gun. I have 3 of them so I had to have fun with one of them. I put the 3.5lb wolf trigger, extended slide release, extended mag release, stream light, trijicon night sights, hogue grip, and a threaded barrel with a brake. The one thing I did do to all of them is a trigger job and night sights with the hogue grip. The grip feels better to me than the plain polymer frame. The trigger is noticeably smoother though with the 3.5lb connector.
 

Mrgunsngear

New member
I've used a 3.5 and NY1 before. It certainly gives you a more constant trigger pull and a good reset, but IMO Glocks have a good reset anyway. Lately I've either been running a stock 3.5lb connector and stock set up or just a straight factory set up (with a polishing of course). I always go back and forth on what I think I like :rolleyes:...

On my gauge with Gen3 guns, the NY1 and 3.5 would come in around 6.5lbs. The stock set up with polish around 5.5-6.0lbs. 3.5lb with polish around 4.5-5lbs.

For me, any of those combinations is fine for any kind of use but there are plenty of threads on here filled with people arguing about that. :D Ultimately, you have to decide that yourself.
 

Uncle Malice

New member
The gen 4 has a added bump on the trigger bar that some say add to slighty heavier pull, some grind it off.

That bump isn't what causes it. The slightly heavier pull on the gen4 is due to a redesigned trigger housing which changes the angle of the disconnector by about 5 degrees, this making it just a little sharper, but also making it a little more 'crisp' I suppose.


My preferred Glock trigger is the Ghost Rocket kit with Wolff 6lb trigger spring and Lightning Strike polished titanium firing pin block with spring. This combination will give you the best bang for the buck and I've tried dozens of combinations on both 3rd and 4th gen glocks. This is the set up that I recommend and have done for several friends who all feel the same way. The Ghost rocket kit will come with both the trigger spring and firing pin spring. Most times I don't actually use the firing pin spring as it's just a little bit lighter than I'd prefer, it can make the trigger reset a little less defined.

Rocket + trigger spring + lightning strike block w/ spring = win. :) I've got this set up in both my Gen 3 G17 OD and Gen4 G21. G17 has around 3k rounds through it and G21 has about 900.
 

triumph666

New member
i have the lone wolf 3.5lb disconnector and i love it...gun breaks smooth and clean with no gun twitch when trigger goes off.....great cheap addition.....as for spring i added a +1lb stainless guide rod setup which i like a lot
 

Gen3Glock22

New member
I heard about the angle too but the person I was told this by switched out his trigger bar from his gen3 to his gen4 and swore that was the problem so he ground off the bump. Not my experience just one theory on the issue I was told worked.
 

Uncle Malice

New member
Count,

I have done the Spalding cut to some and not to others. I don't really notice much of a difference at all. It's a great disconnector either way.
 

Mrgunsngear

New member
FWIW, on my Gen4 G34, the Spaulding cut wouldn't work. It would fire but wouldn't reset. I actually sent a video of it to the guys at Ghost showing it with the orange plate as I worked the trigger of the gun. They said it was 'not uncommon' for certain guns not to work with the Spaulding cut. I had to round it off for it to work in that gun. That said, it works fine on one of my G17s and G35s....:confused:
 

TMD

New member
My G35 has the factory 3.5 connector. Along with that I added a 6lb trigger spring, a 4lb striker spring, radiused the firing pin saftey, and a good polish job. The reset is a little soft but it breaks cleanly at around 2.5lbs.
 

C0untZer0

Moderator
Does the firing pin safety make that much of a difference?

I'll tell you why I'm asking.

I had a G34 with a Sotelo trigger kit in it, and it had a replacement FP safety.

I purchased a stock 17L and even though I worked on proper grip, slow slow slow trigger squeeze, and all that... I could not get good follow-through. When the trigger broke, or a micro-second after, my front sight would twitch to the right.

I didn't have this problem with the light trigger on my G34. But I kept working on it, I even started using GripMasters to strengthen my trigger finger. But the problem persisted. I finally got sick of it, put the 17L slide on my G34 and swapped the stiker assembly. Problem solved - I get rock solid follow through now when I'm dry-firing. But last week I noticed that I had not swapped out the firing pin safety.
 

Uncle Malice

New member
Does the firing pin safety make that much of a difference?

For me, it makes all the difference in the world. The replacement disconnector can give you a lighter pull weight, but you still get that chunky, stagy feeling.

With the smoothed firing pin block, the ramp just smoothly guides over it and I was really surprised how much of a difference it made.

Here is the Lightning Strike Block.

I have also purchased the Lightning Strike aluminum trigger that runs $100. I don't feel that part is worth it. It does make a little difference, but not nearly enough to justify the price. The block makes a much more significant change.
 

Crow Hunter

New member
Before modifying any gun, I would make sure that I was shooting to the capability of the gun.

In other words, is the gun holding you back?

Most people, myself included, don't shoot well enough that a gun holds them back.

If your form, follow through, etc. are so good that the only thing that is slowing you down/throwing shot groups is the trigger of the gun, I would definitely change it.

Most people are not. Particularly people who are new to a platform.

Of course YMMV.;)

* As a Certified Glock armorer I am not allowed to use or condone the use of non-OEM parts.
 

tim s

New member
A lot of improvement can be made at zero cost by pulling out and polishing the transfer bar, striker mechanism, striker.
It takes about 15 minutes.
 
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