General Guidelines for Powder Selection

[hey.moe]

Hi all,

I searched the site for a discussion of this topic and didn't really find anything that directly answered my question. Pardon me if I missed it.

I've recently taken an interest in the shooting sports. Having been technically oriented most of my life, the biggest attraction for me is not so much the end result, as understanding and mastering the fundamentals. I think the degree to which proper procedure and technique affects the results is what will keep my interest in the long run. This applies to all aspects of the sport, not the least of which is reloading.

My question today is prompted by my somewhat in-depth research of the huge volume of information available on the internet. While some patterns have begun to emerge, a lot of what I read just seems to generate more questions.

I intend to begin by reloading first for my rifle (.270 Win), but at some point I'll probably want to try reloading for my pistol (full-size 9mm) as well. As a start I've ordered a reloading guide (Lyman's) which may contain the answer to my question, but it has yet to arrive.

I plan to use my rifle to "learn to shoot." That is, mostly 100 yd targets to begin with, but later on, longer distances using a sling, and perhaps eventually some hunting (after all, that's what it's really designed for).

My pistol is also for learning to shoot, but will do double duty as a HD/SD weapon, so reliability is paramount, with accuracy a close second. By the way, I intend to use factory SD ammo for real, but would like to develop training loads that feel the same.

Being somewhat of a perfectionist, my goal will be to develop the "perfect" loads for my guns and my uses.

I used to think that gunpowder was gunpowder - that while there may be different manufacturers, the formulation was essentially the same. I now realize that there is a wide variety and that the ideal powder depends not only on the type of firearm - rifle, pistol, shotgun - but on the caliber and specific use. So, what are the basic "rules of thumb" that guide one's choice of powder?

Thanks,
-Stan-

 

[PawPaw]

The Lyman reloading guide will certainly answer your questions. And while it will answer those questions, your basic question on powder is certainly a valid one.

There are many formulations of gunpowder, but basically they can be broken down into four categories. Black powder (the original propellant), shotgun, pistol, and rifle powders. The difference in rifle, pistol, shotgun powder is mainly in the burning speed. Modern smokeless powder doesn't explode, it burns and the burn rate is important to finding the best propellant for a particular job.

Generally, the fastest powders are useful for pistol ammo, with some cross-over to shotgun ammo. The shotgun powders are also useful in pistol and limited rifle applications, while the slower powders are useful as rifle propellant. The Hodgdon burn rate chart is an easily accessed, universally accepted model of the burn rates of various powders. The Hodgdon chart lists 144 currently available powders.

Each load listing in the various manuals will generally have three or four powders listed for each cartridge. These powders have been found to be useful in loading each of these individual cartridges. However, the choice of brass, primer, and bullet also affects the pressure that a cartridge will generate. If you change one variable, you change the pressure. If you change two variables, the changes may cancel out, or may become cumulative.

Read the Lyman manual twice, cover to cover before you begin reloading and stick closely to published recipes until you become comfortable with that pressure changes that you see in your reloads.

Start slow and be safe.

 

[Sevens]

So, what are the basic "rules of thumb" that guide one's choice of powder?

Each handloader has a different order of importance when it comes to choosing a powder.

• Many folks will simply try to find a powder they already have on hand when it comes to choosing a powder for a new-to-them caliber.
  
• Many will try to choose a powder that works in a number of different calibers that they intend to handload, because it's easier to keep stock and easier to buy in bulk.
  
• Some will pick whatever powder is listed in their manual that shows the lightest charge weight... in a (misguided) effort to save money by using less powder.
  
• Some will choose a powder that's easiest for them to find in stock in their local area.
  
• Some will choose a powder that shows the highest possible velocities in their given chambering & bullet weight.
  
• Conversely, some will pick a powder that shows an acceptable velocity while also giving the lowest chamber pressures compared to other options.
  
• Many will choose a powder that meters well in their equipment. (that means a powder that feeds through their device easily, accurately and repeatably)
  
• Some will choose a powder specifically because a trusted friend or other source suggested exactly that one.
  
• Some will try to make a powder work because they somehow came in to a pile of it and wish to use it up.
  
• Some handloaders will pick a specific powder (or avoid certain powders) due to their density: they don't want a dense powder in light charges in a small case to help avoid against accidental doubling or tripling of the load.

I may have forgotten some reasons for picking a particular powder... but most handloaders will do one or many of these things when it comes to picking a powder.

At my own bench, I have easily seen over time how I've evolved in my powder choices. Things that seemed important once are now not at all important and my goals are different.

 

[Marco Califo]

Overview of Powder Makers and Powders

http://www.reloadammo.com/rel-powd.htm

Site also has loading data for all major cartridges.

 

[wncchester]

"General Guidelines for Powder Selection - Rule of Thumb"

Tule of Thumb: You have paid good money for loading manuals; use them.

Pick a bullet weight, buy powder(s) that give the best velocities and start your load development there.

 

[Sevens]

Hey crusty old curmudgeon, did you read the detail of his post? He certainly doesn't come off as the type looking for a cheap, easy, lazy shortcut. How about leaving some hints as to what matters most to you in a powder choice?

Not everyone deserves your wrath!
(wncchester knows that I pick on him for being crabby... and will hopefully reply to my post in the same spirit that I wrote it! )

 

[bearol63]

I started with reloading pistol rounds because basically I'm lazy and did not want to have to trim brass and lube the cases. I went on a recommendation from a local gun shop and reloading friends like the ones on this forum. I went form there as I got more familiar with the process and the properties that I was looking for in a reload, ie. consistant velocities, reliability of the round, ease of purchasing the powder. A good guide book (I use Lyman and the web site of the powder manufacture) is a must!

 

[wogpotter]

Here's how I do it. Others may use different techniques, but this has worked for me for many years.

Start by doing research & "due diligence" this is done before reloading anything or even buying components.

Decide on a realistic set of aims for the load. What bullet weight & for what purpose, then decide on the desired velocity. The velocity will partly come from the intended purpose. look through several different reloading manuals.

Now you start checking powders.

The more manuals that list a specific powder the better the chances that it's going to be a good choice, so now you have a short list of possible powder choices.

Now from the short list look back at the manuals again, but this time you're looking for how those short list contenders behaved with the chosen bullet from step one above. The ideal powder will be one that gives the widest possible velocity range with the chosen bullet from the widest selection of manuals. Why? because it will probably run a lower pressure with a better case volume % than others. This equates to the performance you want without beating on the action because you're running at the top end of the pressures.

This should get you down to 2~4 possible variations of the "perfect" load, so now you actually test just those few components by working up to the load you want. Do a ladder load of just a few cases. Start with a low, then a medium, & finally a hottish (not maximum) load with the components then graph the results. Now you can pick a load that gives you the performance in YOUR firearm the data is specific to YOU, not some generic rig used by someone else with different equipment. Now make the second test batch. This time it is the components loaded to the velocity & other factors you worked out from the graph as "perfect" for you.

One will for some reason be "better" than the others, that's the one you chose finally. The "better" may not be immediately obvious, it may be the way the powder works in your measure, or how cleanly it burns, other things than raw speed & energy frequently tip the balance in favor of a specific load.

 

[engineermike]

I like what PawPaw writes, that one change can change everything and two can offset any change. Pressure/s, C.O.L., brass length, bullet weight, bullet shape (As I am now finding out), powder burn rate, the list is non exhaustive. (The list is exhaustive but you get my meaning) You can put as little effort or as much effort into reloading as you want and still come up with an end result that pleases you.

No real set process to reloading but there are a few guide lines that should always be followed. Buy a loading manual read it, also participate in this forum/other forums. (If you like) Develop a few conclusions of your own and start loading. Some of your conclusions will work for you and your guns and some won't. The only real way to clear up these muddy waters is to start reloading.

Welcome to the Frey...

Mike

 

[hey.moe]

Thanks for the very informative replies. I knew I came to the right place.

-Stan-

 

[A_Gamehog]

Most people don't understand your rifle is the starting point of all loads.

The rifle comes with a specific twist rate.

That twist rate determines what weight range of bullets will properly stabilize in it.

The Bullet has a specific list of powders that are known to work well with it.

For somebody starting out there are many resources at your disposal,

1). Nosler load book has loads developed with an astrick* denoting the most accurate load with that bullet and that powder. They also give a "Most accurate Powder" meaning most loads were good and it is singled out as the best of the powders used for that bullet. They also indicate the case load % of volume used by this powder . Some folks want a case full while others want a 85-90% case full. Everybody is different.

2). Lyman's 49th edition gives most accurate loads with bold highlights indicating the charge in grains and the speed.

3). Barnes load books also specifies most accurate powder to use with a specific bullet.

4). Sierra's load book also gives most accurate loads in details. They are conservative, but if you shoot for distance and use match grade bullets you will usually end up starting with Sierra.

If you want to start try the Lyman 49th load book, and then try the Quickload software program after you understand what you need as the software formulas make it very precise based on your case volume, bullet weight, and powder choice.

Keep safety in mind as the Number 1 rule. Document your load failures as well as successes in a log book. Keep detailed records and some of us keep the targets in a book for that specific rifle.

Once you have everything "figured out" you will purchase your rifles based on the specific bullets you want to shoot in it.

 

[engineermike]

Oh yea, you will want to keep some kind of record of your loads so you can chart your success and your failures. (Hits and Misses )

 

[zippy13]

Stan,
Powder selection has been well covered, and I have nothing to add. Many suggest that new shooters start with rimfires, they are not just for youngsters. Shooting fundamentals are easier to learn with the limited recoil (and expense) of rimfire guns. IMHO, you gotta learn to walk before you can run.

Good shooting and be safe.

 

[hey.moe]

Zippy,

While I consider myself, for all practical purposes, to be a beginner with a lot to learn, I did have some experience many years ago with firearms via military marksmanship instruction and qualification. I just never had much real interest in shooting until recently.

I took up the sport last fall, and so far I've been concentrating primarily on the pistol. I've been very pleased with my improvement as a result of lots of practice and some excellent advice and instruction from my fellow shooters.

I've only shot my rifle on a couple of occasions so far. However, I don't think I'm handicapped by any particular bad habits at this point. I don't seem to flinch or shy away from the recoil, and I'm able to shoot reasonably good groups from the bench. So, I think I'll be able to use the .270 effectively in order to work on the fundamentals.

I really like the idea of self-sufficiency that will come from hand loading my own ammo. And, what better excuse to do that than by shooting center-fire cartridges.

You're right though, being able to shoot a lot of cheap ammo would be a real advantage. Perhaps there's a .22 rifle in my future after all.

-Stan-

 

[zippy13]

Stan,

I suspect, in time and with your attitude, you'll not only be loading great ammo, but making your own bullets, too.

 

[NWPilgrim]

As Sevens, A-Gamehog and others mention there are many factors to consider and it can be confusing at first to figure out where to even start. You don't want to buy ten powders and develop a couple of hundred test loads just to find a good load.

First consider your firearm and your intended use. That will point you to the bullet type/weight and velocity you want. For instance a slow twist rate may not be able to shoot the heavy for caliber bullets so you know your weight limits right there (such as a varmint rifle in .223 with a 1:12 twist limited to 55 gr bullets). Or if you are trying to replicate 115 gr 9mm factory ammo then you have your bullet weight and velocity parameters defined. Or you may want a minimum recoil load meaning lighter bullets and or lower velocities.

Once you have narrowed down the type and weight of bullet and possibly the intended velocity range, then you can examine a couple of reloading manuals to see which powders are recommended for that cartridge, bullet style/weight, and velocity range. You can also research what others have found to be proven powders and even loads for ideas: such as using IMR4064, IMR4895, H4895 for loading M1 Garands loads, while IMR 4350 maybe more standard for heavier hunting loads. AR15s seems to like powders like H335, Varget, H4895, TAC, RL15, and these are often excellent in .308 as well.

From this shorter list of candidate powders then I would look at what I have on hand or what will also be good for other cartridges. A general rule of thumb is the heavier the bullet for caliber, and smaller the case mouth diameter in relation to case length and capacity the slower the powder you want. That is why .223 and .308 make good use of similar powders, as well lighter bullets in .30-06. And why .243 likes a slower powder than .308 for same ballistic coefficient bullets even though the have the same case size.

There are some general purpose powders out there that can get you started until you experiment and collect more data. Mid range handgun powders such as Unique and Universal can handle most any cartridge except max loads in magnums. They may not be perfect but they are flexible with a ride range of possible velocity charges. In rifle cartridges Varget and RL15 can handle a wide range of cartridges unless you get into the overbores and magnums, or minis like .30 Carbine. Referencing the Hodgdon powder chart mention earlier can give you an idea of which powders are faster or slower and perhaps better suited to your needs.

I like to keep my powders to a few for handgun and a few for rifle so I can buy 4 lb or 8lb cans at a much cheaper price. I have W231 (faster), Unique, Universal and Power Pistol (mid-range), and W296 for magnums. I am looking at moving towards Bullseye for target loads, Power Pistol for most pistol, Unique for .38 and .44 Special, and W296 for magnums and .30 Carbine. W231 is excellent but does not fill the case up much. Unique is probably one fo the all time most versatile powders does not meter will in small volumes in my Auto Disk measure.

I mostly reload .223 heavier bullets, M1 Garand .30-06, and .308 so H4895 and Varget (or TAC) handle just about everything I need.

 

[hey.moe]

NWPilgrim,

You've provided an excellent summary of the process. It's exactly what I was looking for. Thanks for taking the time.

-Stan-

 

[Loader9]

Rule of thumb around here is a powder that fills the case at least 80% when loading at 80% of max. Generally, that load is going to work the first time out. Need a little more accuracy? Dial it in by changing the OAL .005. It's a lot more simple than a lot try to make it.

 

[wncchester]

"wncchester knows that I pick on him for being crabby... and will hopefully reply to my post in the same spirit that I wrote it!"

I am NOT crabby, I'm a loveable ol' fuzzball. But I am blunt.

I've learned that nuanced info gets analized, twisted, distorted, nit-picked to death for sematics and is usually reduced to nothing helpful. Meaning, if a staight answer won't work, a fancy one sure won't.

That said, my 'go to your loading book' answer for powder selection is the only valid response possible. No agonizing over burn rate, loading density, etc, by any noob - and precious few old hands - can possibly find a better powder choice than what the book makers used and they give proper data for their selections as well.

Bottom line, a little knowledge can be a dangerous thing and reloading is a science in which amature guesses are likely to produce bad results; use your professionally compiled loading book. And for goodness sake, don't get the idea that ANY loading manual's MAX loads will be safe in every gun without careful and responsible work-up!

 

[4runnerman]

WOGPOTTER --Plus 100 could not have said it better.