Filling in the stock.

[wachtelhund1]

I made several stocks with carbon fiber that I hand laid up in a mold. In the forearm, I put pink insulation material from half and one inch thick insulation board and a piece of aluminum to attach a sling stud. In forearm and grip areas, the foam was shaped and epoxied in. In the butt the foam was shaped for a semi-tight fit and epoxied in about a 1/2" from the butt pad line. I shaped a piece of hard wood to fit in on top of the foam to hold screws for the butt pad.

CZ Carbon Kevlar stock, 1 1/2 pounds.

 

[jdc606]

I made several stocks with carbon fiber that I hand laid up in a mold. In the forearm, I put pink insulation material from half and one inch thick insulation board and a piece of aluminum to attach a sling stud. In forearm and grip areas, the foam was shaped and epoxied in. In the butt the foam was shaped for a semi-tight fit and epoxied in about a 1/2" from the butt pad line. I shaped a piece of hard wood to fit in on top of the foam to hold screws for the butt pad.

CZ Carbon Kevlar stock, 1 1/2 pounds.

You have skills, very nice and well thought out.

 

[stagpanther]

The thread back from the dead! The original axis was about as rigid in the wrist as a piece of freshly boiled linguini. I had quite a few of them and soon realized you could about halve the size of the groups if you did a "stiffie" job on the Tupperware stuck. What I found worked best for the butt/wrist/comb region was to fill it with envirotex; it flowed easily into the nooks and crannies. Adds some but not much weight. I poured into the stock clamped vertically, leaving a little room for expansion at the buttpad area. It does heat up a bit while curing, but as far as I can tell is totally rigid and has never cracked. Problem with the old axis stock is that once you pop the buttpad off you'll likely need to permanently re-attach it since the pop-up tab will almost certainly break, but that's never been an issue with me.

 

[Pahoo]

Polly resin stocks, are "Drums"

Does anyone have suggestions for a good material/method to fill in the butt of a hollow stock (Savage axis) to add some weight and rigidity.

Since my last reply, I encountered a new hollow-stock project. You want to add weight and for whatever reason, that's you call. You also want to add some rigidity and not sure why or when end-results you are looking for.

As stated before, I have used Great-Stuff on a previous stock with not so great results. By my measure, the flexing of the stock walls is acting like the diaphragm of a drum. It took some work but was able to reduce the "drumming" by inserting wooden baffles that span from wall to wall. I epoxied them to the inside contact areas, as deep into the wrist as I could reach. It only cost me time and was more effective then foam. Now "If" I wans to add weight, I can epoxy that material, between baffle walls. .....

Be Safe !!!

 

[Paul B.]

I did two Butler Creek plastic stocks. Both rifles were FN Mausers, one a commercial FN and the other a JC Higgins M50. On the commercial I used a glass bedding kit, actually two to fill the forearm for stiffness and the butt stock to reduce the booming sound when bumped. Did the job OK but made he rifle heavier than I care for. It is very accurate with the changes to the stock.
For the JC Higgins I got some threaded rod from the hardware store and a can of foam used to insulate wiring it said on the can. It expands very rapidly so when you use it you have to move fast. First I cut the rod to fit the barrel channel, then shot the foam into the channel and quickly dropped the barreled action into the stock. Two things to remember, use a release agent on the barreled action and plenty of masking on the stock. On the butt the rifle has an altered butt plate from I think some military rifle, possibly an 03 Springfield. Filling the butt was easy as I just opened the little trapdoor and shot the foam in that way, then slammed the trapdoor shut before the foam could leak out. That rifle has been about ten years now with that foam filled stock and it's still going strong.
Paul B.

 

[Bill DeShivs]

Let me ask a question: if you need to remove the stock, how are you going to get it off if you have it epoxied to the stock bolt?
Kinda like welding your car trunk shut.

 

[Polinese]

I didn't epoxy anything as far as holding the action in place. I merely filled in all the empty voids in the forearm and stock areas to make the whole thing more rigid. It wasn't at all like a glass bedding or anything.

That rifle has since been put into a boyds stock once they became available and recently an oyrx chassis. The original stock I filled in and stiffened (which held up and worked perfectly as I wasn't concerned about weight) has long since been discarded but served me well until alternatives were available.

 

[Carl the Floor Walker]

You could use "Duct Putty" (seal). It is on the Heavy and solid and cost about a $1.00 a bar. I use it to place in my Air Rifle Pellet Traps. Again it is a heavy material that can be molded,(like silly putty) is a excellent Sound Dampening material and last for years.

Depending on how much weight to use, for a lighter effect as I did one gun, I wrapped the duct putty in Sound Damping sheets. And I can simply pull the material out with ease if I want to.



Here is a video of the "SILENT" pellet trap. Notice more pics and use of the Duct Putty.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gEiZ25QJg7M

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EnQJFo3X2zs

 

[Don Fischer]

You guys better hope you never have to take the stocks off of your rifles!
If you must fill the stock, do it with something that can be easily removed, otherwise you have Bubba'd up your gun.

Say this again. When I was a kid I had a single shot 16ga with a plastic stock. Unscrew the plug in the but stock and it was hollow inside, think it was to add sand for weight. Well I added mixture of flour and water. Got pretty heavy with that and set up there was no getting it out!

 

[stagpanther]

how are you going to get it off if you have it epoxied to the stock bolt?

I just use a hammer and nail punch to light off the primer--works great.

Actually--if what you are really saying is make sure you remove the action before using an epoxy (unless you use a release) I'd say yup--that makes sense. Otherwise, an old plastic axis stock is not something I waste much emotion on preserving it's long-term investment value.