Do clean primer pockets matter
- Thread starter akinswi
- Start date
Dillon did a lot of testing to show there was no effect on performance, as have some YouTube videos. However, even Dillon says enough build-up starts to impact ignition reliability. And board member Hummer70, who is a former Aberdeen Proving Grounds test director, says the carbon deposits in primer pockets get hard enough so their residue that is blown into the case and down the barrel contributes a borescope-visible increase in throat wear. He invented the stainless pin cleaning method about 30 years ago because of looking for a way to eliminate that carbon and keep it from being sent down the tube.
I wonder how many firings it took for that too occur
Recycled bullet
New member
When I (ram prime with the hand press) install primers in wet pin (hot tap water, dawn soap, stainless steel pins and citric acid, FA big rotary drum) tumbled brass the pockets feel tighter.
I get very consistent primer installation depth this way.
If my primer pockets are cleaned this way, then the rest of the brass is sparkling clean and this makes physical inspection for the various types of cartridge case failures that I must check for extremely easy and fast.
I feel better about the quality of my hand loads since starting wet tumbling.
Are you wet tumbling or using a primer pocket cleaning tool?
I get very consistent primer installation depth this way.
If my primer pockets are cleaned this way, then the rest of the brass is sparkling clean and this makes physical inspection for the various types of cartridge case failures that I must check for extremely easy and fast.
I feel better about the quality of my hand loads since starting wet tumbling.
Are you wet tumbling or using a primer pocket cleaning tool?
.Marco Califo
New member
Primer residue is toxic. I wet tumble with pins to remove it.
Significantly longer than your brass will last.
Anyone that knows me I am pretty much the polar opposite of OCB
I like shiny clean brass and as sparkly as it will get.
Maybe it does not shoot better, but its a point of pride that I have the best cases on the range.
As I kid I was taught you never ever embarrass your folks and somehow that is bound up in it. People do Judge you on your appearance and at the range you have far less respect for a guy with raggedy ass brass (unless he is shooting holes in one).
So, wet cleaning with pins or the chips (for 6.5 mm) works and it makes me feel like a king with a chest of jewels. Good enough for me.
I like shiny clean brass and as sparkly as it will get.
Maybe it does not shoot better, but its a point of pride that I have the best cases on the range.
As I kid I was taught you never ever embarrass your folks and somehow that is bound up in it. People do Judge you on your appearance and at the range you have far less respect for a guy with raggedy ass brass (unless he is shooting holes in one).
So, wet cleaning with pins or the chips (for 6.5 mm) works and it makes me feel like a king with a chest of jewels. Good enough for me.
Old school here, decapped brass gets a twist with what was once called a Baby Crocogator", then a rap on a solid surface to dislodge any remaining loose ash, then on to the collection for the next step. I'm handling each piece anyway, doing a visual and sometimes length measurement checks, so a quick twist of the tool is no big deal.
The tool also serves as a quick check on the "tightness" of the primer pocket, and does catch things like crimps I missed noticing, or excessively loose feeling pockets.
And, personally, I don't give a fig about other people's opinions of what my ammo looks like.
The tool also serves as a quick check on the "tightness" of the primer pocket, and does catch things like crimps I missed noticing, or excessively loose feeling pockets.
And, personally, I don't give a fig about other people's opinions of what my ammo looks like.
jetinteriorguy
New member
I’m sort of in between. I do wet tumble but leave out the pins. This method cleans most of the gunk out of the primer pockets but keeps the process a little simpler for me. I’m using the traditional Dawn/Lemishine mix.
I use a Lee Universal decap die first then vibratory bowl dry .
I just want clean brass. I don't care about shiny. I do care about clean.
Range grit in the brass will cut sizing dies.
I have not taken up pins and wet cleaning. No doubt it works good.
I've noticed folks who get into pins get over it after a bit. I have more than enough "stuff" to deal with.
If the pockets are clean enough for uniform,smooth primer seating I don't worry about it.
I just want clean brass. I don't care about shiny. I do care about clean.
Range grit in the brass will cut sizing dies.
I have not taken up pins and wet cleaning. No doubt it works good.
I've noticed folks who get into pins get over it after a bit. I have more than enough "stuff" to deal with.
If the pockets are clean enough for uniform,smooth primer seating I don't worry about it.
I kinda wanna throw the range brass in the walnut for a day then start off with resizing in station 1.
The whole idea of this project is too see if I can get the same accuracy with cutting out some steps, such as trimming, decapping , wet cleaning so forth. if the accuracy stays the same then its more time spent shooting than ocd reloading which Im trying to get away from.
This RCBS x die has been some experiment. After two dies and about 20 pieces of brass I think I got it setup right.
Will see how it goes
The whole idea of this project is too see if I can get the same accuracy with cutting out some steps, such as trimming, decapping , wet cleaning so forth. if the accuracy stays the same then its more time spent shooting than ocd reloading which Im trying to get away from.
This RCBS x die has been some experiment. After two dies and about 20 pieces of brass I think I got it setup right.
Will see how it goes
Marco Califo
New member
My approach is not to eliminate these steps, but instead to move them off your press: Do them in batch mode first, deprime, clean, inspect and cull, size, trim only if really needed, seat primers.
Then sit at your press with Ready to Go brass.
Marco,
your approach is exactly what I do now.
The X die experiment Im running will eliminate the need to trim after the first initial trim that I did to this batch.
Thats why I posted the question about cleaning primer pockets.
I can shoot, then clean the brass in walnut then start reloading on the press. Im shooting 100 200 and 300 yard matches with M1 so Definitely no benchrest shooting.
But with my careful handloads the gun can shoot 1 moa which is all I need
I get what you're trying to get away from, but how do you figure it will give you more time shooting?? Are you figuring that not doing reloading steps that aren't absolutely essential will produce more rounds per time spent, and that will give you more "time" shooting?? OR is it something else??
I do my reloading at times (and in places) where I can't go shooting. Don't you??
If saving time is the priority, then spend more money, and buy brand new factory made ammo. There's no free lunch.
If you need to be reloading for any of the many reasons we do it, then those reasons are higher priority than saving time.
Average Joe
New member
Used too, but not anymore. Never really made much difference.
44amp
I would but no one makes Match Ammo for M1s anymore. You are correct I could just buy new brass every time and just load it. Which I have done.
The most accurate ammo I ever produced was from new factory brass.
It takes a whole day to load 50rds of match ammo.