Colt Navy woes

[Oquirrh]

no unusual binding of the cylinder

I was using light loads in hopes of accuracy. 20g?

It ain't the arbor that binds. It's the hammer. After two cylinders, the dry crud on the hammer and the frame opening it swings through--starts causing misfires.

BTW, my Treso cones have arrived in the mail.

 

[Smokin_Gun]

Nope, sorry, I don't follow.

Ok Mykeal, in plain English or as close as I can get to it. You are being anal about a critical dimension that doesn't matter as long as the cylinder has about a .010" gap and is free to turn.
The dang Navy Rev had the Wedge hit in too far and it was fired, bound up bulged, hard to remove from arbor(raised material), damaged wedge, had to beat it out. What more trouble shooting do you need to know to figure out the wedge was in too dang far.
And that Sir was my point to Oquirrh not you, as he was following the explaination.
Now he's able to shim to temporarily repair the wedge till replaced.

Oquirrh, good job when I first started repairing my own 30 some years ago I was in the same boat you are in....So I speaking for only myself(so I don' get in any trouble) jump eagerly at the chance to help when I have been there and done that a couple times.
I'm pretty sure most everyone wants to help....

SG

 

[Hawg]

the cylinder end gap is specified, so that's the critical dimension, not the wedge location. It is true that the wedge determines cylinder end gap, but both wedge and arbor slot wear make it impossible to say what the wedge location must be to obtain any given end gap value.

Ok Mykeal, in plain English or as close as I can get to it. You are being anal about a critical dimension that doesn't matter as long as the cylinder has about a .010" gap and is free to turn.

I fail to see where Mykeal is being anal. Seems to me y'all are both saying practically the same thing. I do find the "critical dimension that doesn't matter" statement somewhat amusing tho.(no offense intended)

BTW I usually run 18-24 shots before my 60 starts to bind but that's probably due to the tight gap.

It ain't the arbor that binds. It's the hammer. After two cylinders, the dry crud on the hammer and the frame opening it swings through--starts causing misfires.

Have you checked for burrs on the hammer or frame? It might need a little stoning of the hammer/frame to smooth things up. Check for rub marks on both to give you an idea where the problem might be.

 

[Oquirrh]

Have you checked for burrs on the hammer or frame? It might need a little stoning of the hammer/frame to smooth things up. Check for rub marks on both to give you an idea where the problem might be.

No burrs on hammer or frame--just way-tight tolerances. On the left side the gap between the hammer and the frame is .006 to .004, but on the top left side I can't get a feeler gauge in at all. But the problem seems to be down in the works, when the hammer's coming down from full cock it binds in the last 1/4". But when I lift it back up a bit and let go--no binding. I need to polish the innards.

btw, the Tresos and RWS 1075 caps seem a good match.

 

[Hawg]

I just checked my 60 and on the right side I have 0.004, on the left side a feeler gauge won't go. If I push the hammer over to the right the 0.004 will go in the left side but none will on the right. The hammer shows very light rub marks on the left side but mine doesn't bind up with use. Quite frankly I'm baffled at this point. Maybe the nipples are letting too much flash back through them, maybe the Treso's will fix it but right now I'm clueless.

 

[Oquirrh]

Good day for the '51 Navy

just got back from a satiisfying morning at the range.

4 cylinders fired. 20 gr and 25 grain loads of Shockey's Gold powder. And one for-the-hell-of-it cylinder with 25 gr of Kik fffg black powder.

I really prefer black powder, but I had a bottle of the Shockey's around and it burns clean.

The TRESOS make all the difference. Only one misfire and that was only because two flattened caps were stuck under the hammer. Not one cylinder jam from caps. The cylinder was a little hard to get off at the end of the day, but it never stopped going around. No build up on the front of the cylinders--I was using beeswax/parafin/crisco.

No more serious crud build up on the hammer. The wedge held with a beer can shim. I would have liked to have shot until it fouled up, but I ran out of balls.

Accuracy was so-so, 4" groups at 50 ft., but today was about functioning.

Thanks everyone, I'm on my way.

 

[Hawg]

Good deal! Those Tresos have smaller flash holes than factory nipples. I guess that was all it took.

 

[Fingers McGee]

Glad to hear it's working better for you now. Tresos definitely help. One other thing you might look at. The safety pin notch in the hammer will grab the caps & pull them off the nipple if the edges are sharp or there is a burr on it. I had a Pietta the would sometimes grab a cap & not let go without digging it out. A small round jewelers file taken to the notch to get rid of the sharp edges and burr was all it took to keep the expended caps on the nipples so the wouldn't fall down & get flattened by the hammer.

 

[Smokin_Gun]

The cylinder was a little hard to get off at the end of the day, but it never stopped going around. No build up on the front of the cylinders--I was using beeswax/parafin/crisco.

Oquirrh, glad to hear you ha fun at the range...nothin' better. Good on ya on them Treso cones too. I am awaiting a couple sets from Thunder Ridge some TRM cones.
Also pleased to see the Lube pills/lube mix worked for you...can add more Crisco or try Olive/Soybean Oil (what I use) corn, Wesson, or any veggie oil you happen to like.

Email me or PM me will tell you more about makin um

Good shootin' at 50ft, that'll do um


See ya,
SG