Cleaning / Shooting items for a 54 cal Lyman GPR - 1st BP Rifle

mehavey

New member
the OP has a LEFT HANDED rifle - so I'm curious,
can that sight you linked be somehow "reversed...
I hadn't even thought about one of those 'sinister' lock arrangements, so I went down and looked/tried both the percussion and flint GPRs.

the cock/hammer clears w/o a problem even on the wrong side of the road. :rolleyes:




But if the OP still doesn't like it, I'll buy it off of him. `Never hurts to have a spare (as I found out a couple of years ago when someone knocked the rifle over/onto the concrete range floor)
 

Model12Win

Moderator
Troops, there's absolutely nothing wrong with a steel rod/muzzle guide combo.
Especially as steel doesn't bend, and steel doesn't collect embedded abrasive debris.
Steel doesn't bend?

That's news to me.

But the OPs stainless rod is of a small diameter. A brass 3/8" rod is extremely strong and it's natural weight makes seating balls a dream. I always use a muzzle guide as well, also brass.
 

mehavey

New member
No, steel doesn't bend (compared to anything brass), and `fer absolute sure won't bend with a muzzle guide.
(But yeah, the OP needs a thicker 3/8 rod) ;)

That said, for ball seating I use THIS flex rod, cut to length (to where 6" shows after seating charge), with THIS palm saver on one end and THIS seating jag on the other.

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

See HERE for ball size, patch material/thickness and general "going-in" load data on the GPR/54cal.
Damp spit patch is fine (maybe even superior) for lube at this point.

Go to the fabric store with your calipers. Head to the pillow ticking section and check
for 100% cotton. Pick up a yard of 0.015" and another yard of 18-20 thousandths.
(One or the other of the ticking materials will work better.)

Cut a strip of [pillow-ticking] patch material that's five colored-stripes wide.
Using DAMP saliva as lube, not Crisco or anything else for now.
Drive ball even with the muzzle using (short end) of the short starter; cut patch flush w/ sharp knife; then drive another 5" deep w/ the long end self-same short shorter.

Using two hands on the rod/about 6-8" above the muzzle and successive strokes, ball/patch combo should be "smoothly-hard" to seat to the powder firmly.
Wipe barrel 2X with a damp (not wet) patch between shots.
 
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mehavey

New member
Get one of these:
https://www.trackofthewolf.com/Categories/PartDetail.aspx/70/1/POWDER-CAP-F

and then cut off a 45-70 case to the dimension that when you contact-pour powder into it, it produces the right throw weight.

and/or ... get one of these
https://www.midwayusa.com/product/8...50-to-120-grains-in-10-grain-increments-brass

Personally, I've got about a dozen different 45-70 cases in the box for various rifles, along with the adjustable one for just fooling around. The valved spout on the powder can feeds all of them.
 

bedbugbilly

New member
mehavy - thanks for checking on the sight and if it will work on a left handed, built backwards, inside out rifle. :) I bought 50 cal GPR flintlock off of a fellow that had only been fired one range session - got it at such a low price I couldn't pass it up. Mine is a right handed but when saw the OP's post and your post on the sight, it got me to wondering if it would work on a left handed rifle.

For a production rifle, I think they are well built. I'm going to "customize" mine this winter a little. I am going to finish carving the beavertail cheek piece to the correct profile that it should be, do an inlay on the cheek piece and probably add a correct style cap box on the other side. The one thing I don't care for is their lock bolt placement but it is what it is. I haven't had a lot of time of fuss with it yet to see how the lock functions but it seems to work fine. If I ever change out the lock, I'll redo the lock bolts and get them where they should be. I know L & R has a replacement lock but I still hate the lock bolt being in the center - call me a tradionlist!

I'm also pretty impressed with what I'm seeing on the Lyman "trade" rifle. I've read lots of good things about them and they seem to be a good product at a fair price. I have plenty of front stuffers that I've accumulated over the past 50 plus years but Lyman trade rifle looks like a good all around knock about rifle.

I don't hunt anymore but both the GPR and the Lyman Trade Rifle certainly provide a good affordable rifle to hunt with or just enjoy sending lead downrange.

Thanks again for the info. Will be interested to see how the OP likes his GPR - I have a feeling he'll love it!
 
Concur with bedbugbilly on those customizing touches. It does need a steel cap box and an inlay on the cheekpiece would enhance it immensely.
 

the possum

New member
When I finally get a few minutes to do some shooting, I don't like to waste time measuring each powder charge on site. So I bought some cheap test tubes to contain pre-measured charges for a couple bucks. test tubes

These have plenty of room; could probably fit over 120 grains if need be. I like that they're small enough in diameter to fit down inside the bore, so ya don't spill any powder. And of course it's handy to carry a pocket full of 'em hunting for speedier reloads.

I also bought some of this style for my Dad, but they don't hold as much (up to about 75 grains): Screw cap tubes. They have a really secure screw cap with an O-Ring though, which is nice.
 
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drobs

New member
Looking at December Christmas Time for my next trip home.
There's a Missouri Alternative Methods Deer hunt that I could hit. Methods legal are BP rifle, Centerfire Pistol, plus some others (Atlatl, etc).

Figure I could get a week of shooting everyday before the season. Then decide - BP rifle or... 7.62x39 pistol.

Probably want to invest in a sling for the GPR.
 
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