Cleaning after Bear Creek bullets

Jim Watson

New member
I have shot Bear Creek and another similar LOOKING coated bullet in .45 with no excess fouling. That Other Brand went to pot in a hurry in 9mm 300 fps faster, and this may be what you are seeing with Bear Creek.

It took a lot of soaking and scrubbing, I don't have an easy way out.
 

jetinteriorguy

New member
Yup, did that. I’ve talked to Steve at Bear Creek a couple times about this and he said no ones ever asked about this problem. So I put a hundred rounds through both the Taurus PT-99 and my CZ75B SA and after I got home ran a cleaning swab through each soaked with Hoppes Professional Gel and not a whole lot of stuff came out dirty wise, but the buildup looks pretty much the same.
 

jetinteriorguy

New member
just be careful, enough of that stuff builds up and you could end up with a bore obstruction and a kaboom. firing jacketed after is inadvisable, or so I have been told.
It’s not really a buildup, more like a thin smeared on coating. I did shoot about 40 rounds of copper plated through both of the pistols I’m using and had no issues, but it had no effect on the coating in the bore at all. I know it’s not lead, I’ve cleaned enough of that out of magnum revolvers over the years and tried the copper chore boy on this as well. When I talked to them at BC Steve said the slight coating left behind shouldn’t hurt anything and so far this seems to be the case.
 

rc

New member
Some barrels are good with lead and others like with polygon rifling cannot shoot lead without stripping the lands and leaving deposits. I would suggest the little in savings for lead is probably not worth it for 9mm. For 38 Special, 32 Long, 45 ACP, 45 Colt etc under 1000fps lead works great. Over 1000fps like in 9mm it is not due to leading.
 

jetinteriorguy

New member
I’m trying an experiment. I picked up some corks and have plugged one of my barrels, filled with MEK and plugged the chamber to let it soak. I’ve also picked up some more Acetone to try if the MEK doesn’t work. I’ll post results.
 
Good luck with it. I hadn't bought a paint stripper for a while, and I see they now have epoxy paint strippers with no methylene chloride and that rinse off with water, so if your solvents don't work, that option is available.
 

jetinteriorguy

New member
That’s what I was thinking. I also decided to do the same routine but use acetone in the other barrel. I’m going to soak them overnight and see what happens. If no success then I’m going to try a stripper. I’ve been researching them and some will remove both epoxy paint and polyurethane so I’m thinking this would be the best bet. You can still get strippers that contain methylene chloride but only in larger quantities and hazardous shipping plus the high cost of the stripper makes it out of the question.
 

cdoc42

New member
This section of the link offered by Mike38 poses a question related my previously described experience:

"Our customers have fired thousands of rounds through various guns without ever cleaning the bore, or needing to. When you use our bullets and the right load combination, you'll be surprised at how clean the bore stays. Run a dry patch or two through it after use and you might never need to do anything else. You can brush the bore with a brass brush, but this is usually unnecessary."

If I run a dry patch through any of my guns after firing, the patch will be black to some degree, due to carbon from powder burn. If this coating is moly, that, too, imparts a black coating on the patch. That one "might never need to do anything else" raises the question of what might one need to do? And what is expected of the use of a brass brush?

"For these reasons, one of the biggest advantages of using BCS bullets is cleanliness. Clean to handle, clean to load, clean to use. The small amount of black you get on your fingers is harmless, and this molybdenum-disulfide washes off easily and is a good reminder that using BCS bullets will keep everything else clean."

This is exactly what I experienced with my moly'd bullets - it washed off easily from my fingers, but I could never wash it off the barrel bore, and over time, I think it accumulated to adversely affect the accuracy.
 

jetinteriorguy

New member
This section of the link offered by Mike38 poses a question related my previously described experience:

"Our customers have fired thousands of rounds through various guns without ever cleaning the bore, or needing to. When you use our bullets and the right load combination, you'll be surprised at how clean the bore stays. Run a dry patch or two through it after use and you might never need to do anything else. You can brush the bore with a brass brush, but this is usually unnecessary."

If I run a dry patch through any of my guns after firing, the patch will be black to some degree, due to carbon from powder burn. If this coating is moly, that, too, imparts a black coating on the patch. That one "might never need to do anything else" raises the question of what might one need to do? And what is expected of the use of a brass brush?

"For these reasons, one of the biggest advantages of using BCS bullets is cleanliness. Clean to handle, clean to load, clean to use. The small amount of black you get on your fingers is harmless, and this molybdenum-disulfide washes off easily and is a good reminder that using BCS bullets will keep everything else clean."

This is exactly what I experienced with my moly'd bullets - it washed off easily from my fingers, but I could never wash it off the barrel bore, and over time, I think it accumulated to adversely affect the accuracy.
This is what I’m afraid of, I don’t want to ruin my guns because of this issue. I tried some paint stripper this morning but it had absolutely no affect on it whatsoever. So far the only thing that’s helped a little has been soaking it in acetone with both ends of the barrel plugged.
 

cdoc42

New member
Unclenick hasn't had a problem and maybe his technique plays a role. As he stated:

"I never had an issue with the NECO process. I still have a lot of bullets coated with it, but I do clean it out after every range session. Bore Tech makes a special moly cleaner called Moly Magic that seems to work well, but so does Carbon Killer."

I certainly did not clean the 7STW after every range session, so maybe I contributed to the problem. I still have a bunch of moly'd pistol bullets that I have run through the vib cleaner several times but the moly won't completely come off. So I'm afraid to use them. I will, however, get some Moly Magic and see what happens!!!
 

Jim Watson

New member
The stuff Bear Creek uses may contain molybdenum sulfide, but it isn't straight MoS2 like the NECO powder Unclenick finds satisfactory.
I think the fouling is whatever paint-like carrier they use.
 

jetinteriorguy

New member
Unclenick hasn't had a problem and maybe his technique plays a role. As he stated:

"I never had an issue with the NECO process. I still have a lot of bullets coated with it, but I do clean it out after every range session. Bore Tech makes a special moly cleaner called Moly Magic that seems to work well, but so does Carbon Killer."

I certainly did not clean the 7STW after every range session, so maybe I contributed to the problem. I still have a bunch of moly'd pistol bullets that I have run through the vib cleaner several times but the moly won't completely come off. So I'm afraid to use them. I will, however, get some Moly Magic and see what happens!!!
I ordered some of the Boretec Moly Magic, it gets good reviews and sounds like just the ticket. Once I get this figured out I’m just going to designate one gun to use up the bullets I have on hand, then no more for me. The thousand I have for my .38/.357 I’m just going to sell. I’m simply not going to fool with these bullets, too bad since they shoot very well.
 

cdoc42

New member
Jim Watson,
"The stuff Bear Creek uses may contain molybdenum sulfide, but it isn't straight MoS2 like the NECO powder Unclenick finds satisfactory.
I think the fouling is whatever paint-like carrier they use."

But Mike38 said "I see on the Bear Creek web site they use the words "molybdenum-disulfide". (MoS2)
 
I didn't read their description down far enough to spot the mention of moly. I figured when they said "proprietary" at the top, they were done with the reveal. It's going to turn out to be a mix, I'm pretty sure, much like the Brownells spray paint finishes that include moly. Polymer moly blend. May be other things in it.

I think you identified the problem you had with moly. When it first started to be used (I got on board in the early '90s) the fact it cut copper fouling way down caused a lot of folks to think they could skip cleaning for a whole season. But reports over time were that it can create little bumps of moly on the bore surface if it is allowed to accumulate long enough.

Slip2000 Carbon Killer is another possible cleaning attack. It's strong, so I use it judiciously, but for something stubborn, it might fly.

I'm surprised the paint stripper did nothing. I wish we could get a borescope image, as I've never tried these bullets myself.
 

jetinteriorguy

New member
I’m sure it’s some sort of blend containing moly as well. I tried another thing that may hold some promise. I sprayed the bore in my M&P with PB Blaster and after a few hours of soaking it put a pretty good dent in getting the coating out. So I sprayed it down again and will let it soak overnight and see what happens.
 
There's one YouTube test that suggests good old Liquid Wrench is actually more effective than PB or other penetrants. But PB has other stuff in it and shares a chemical scent with some of the old carb cleaners. I have no way to know if penetration or the action of that other stuff is responsible for your success. Let us know if the longer soak solves it.
 

Metal god

New member
Am I wrong in thinking if acetone and paint stripper don't take it off none of those types of products will , it's clearly not that type of residue . The one product I'm surprised how well is takes "some" coatings off is Goo Gone or any citrus based cleaners . On some things it doesn't seem to work at all and other things the citrus cleaners work where nothing else will . It's weird actually but they do have there place , just a thought .

To add , I had always been told NEVER shoot your lead fouling out of the barrel with jacketed bullets . Well the other day I was getting more lead biuld up then I ever have seen in a revolver ( 44 mag ) so I shot 1 full throttle jacketed bullet through the fouled barrel . The result was a bore that looked like I just cleaned it . I mean the bore was like a mirror again . Based on what was talked about earlier am I to assume you can't see the build up that is happening when shooting jacketed after lead ?

Also now that I think about it I've been shooting guns for 40+ years and have on numerous occasions shot jacketed after lead or vise versa . Not a lot because most of the time I'll shoot the same type of bullet through out a range trip but there has been many times over a 40 year span I've had both on the bench/table at the same time .

Is this a don't "only" shoot jacketed after lead to clean your bore while never actually properly cleaning the bore ? Or is this a we don't recommend it but if you do make sure you properly clean your bore after ?
 
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