Same here Hawg. I learned a very valuable lesson years ago. I was about 12-13 yrs old, had a brand new T/C Hawkins-50 cal. Hunted with dad in pouring rain for 3-4 days in a row. Every night dad told me I`d better fire charge but I didn`t. Watched a monster buck walk straight down a revene towards me. When buck turned sideways(at about 20yds out) I pulled trigger and only cap went off and so did buck. Dad deing only about 50yds up the revene from me watched as I raised that rifle and was going to wrap it around the tree I was perched beside. He started hollering and that stopped me. Still yet today, in damp weather,if I use that same rifle(my favorite), new charge and #11 cap every morning with tape or finger tip of rubber glove over bore. Weather dictates whether I discharge at night but one thing I`ll always do no matter if I`m hunting with a #11 perc.,musket cap or 209 primer, when the equipment goes outside it doesn`t come back in warm house till season`s over. It works for me.
Caps?
- Thread starter Yankee Doodle
- Start date
Raider2000
New member
I've only used Musket caps in my Navy Arms Zouave "that I used to have" in everything else I use Remington #11 caps.
My little CVA Bobcat .50 shoots pretty well but when I experimented with 777 FFF I would occasionally get misfires till I learned how to load 777 FFF properly, now every time I load it with anything but Pyrodex RS "it doesn't like the larger granules in it's smallish flash channel" it goes BOOM when I squeeze the trigger.
I've learned from my N-SSA days that FFFG was the way to go, cleaner burning than FFG & a bit more accurate at the range & in keeping that tradition for my hunting rifles & ofcorse my revolvers I rarely have an ignition problem unless I did something wrong in my process of loading, the same goes for Pyrodex P, I've had very reliable ignition with Pyrodex P even in very damp weather while hunting.
I take my rifles that I plan to hunt with & swab them with 91% rubbing alcohol to get any moisture & oils out then dry patches "I cheat & use my Bore Scope to make sure that I did get everything dry before I pour any powder in the muzzle."
Pour my measured amount of powder then I'll bump the side of the barrel a couple of times to settle the powder into the firing chamber, my PRB home then I'll swab the bore above the PRB with a Crisco lubed patch "not a lot goes onto the bore but enough to keep from any moisture from attacking the bore" then a strip of Electrical tape over the muzzle to help keep moisture & junk out of the bore "seems t help."
While the rifle is loaded I'll keep either my rubber vacuum cap onto the nipple or a #11 Remington cap in place with some bees wax surrounding the two, but never do I not have something over the nipple that'll allow moisture into that area.
I've had my rifle soaking wet, cold enough to see sweat freeze on the outside & once when I had taken it in to shoot at the range the next day sweat all over the outside of the barrel but "knock on wood" I have yet to have a misfire or hangfire since I started doing what I do during the loading process &/or daily routines while they are loaded.
BTW I've had my C&B revolvers at one time or another loaded for up to a year & would get caught in the rain with them on my side, take them in & out in the coldest wettest days to check traps or do some scouting & have never left any of them in the truck because it's cold out but in the 25+ years of doing so have never had one not fire it's 5 chambers as reliably & with the same authority as if I had loaded it that day, I think my success is from what I do in the loading process, & what I do to help prevent moisture from getting into the loaded chambers or bore of the loaded weapon.
My little CVA Bobcat .50 shoots pretty well but when I experimented with 777 FFF I would occasionally get misfires till I learned how to load 777 FFF properly, now every time I load it with anything but Pyrodex RS "it doesn't like the larger granules in it's smallish flash channel" it goes BOOM when I squeeze the trigger.
I've learned from my N-SSA days that FFFG was the way to go, cleaner burning than FFG & a bit more accurate at the range & in keeping that tradition for my hunting rifles & ofcorse my revolvers I rarely have an ignition problem unless I did something wrong in my process of loading, the same goes for Pyrodex P, I've had very reliable ignition with Pyrodex P even in very damp weather while hunting.
I take my rifles that I plan to hunt with & swab them with 91% rubbing alcohol to get any moisture & oils out then dry patches "I cheat & use my Bore Scope to make sure that I did get everything dry before I pour any powder in the muzzle."
Pour my measured amount of powder then I'll bump the side of the barrel a couple of times to settle the powder into the firing chamber, my PRB home then I'll swab the bore above the PRB with a Crisco lubed patch "not a lot goes onto the bore but enough to keep from any moisture from attacking the bore" then a strip of Electrical tape over the muzzle to help keep moisture & junk out of the bore "seems t help."
While the rifle is loaded I'll keep either my rubber vacuum cap onto the nipple or a #11 Remington cap in place with some bees wax surrounding the two, but never do I not have something over the nipple that'll allow moisture into that area.
I've had my rifle soaking wet, cold enough to see sweat freeze on the outside & once when I had taken it in to shoot at the range the next day sweat all over the outside of the barrel but "knock on wood" I have yet to have a misfire or hangfire since I started doing what I do during the loading process &/or daily routines while they are loaded.
BTW I've had my C&B revolvers at one time or another loaded for up to a year & would get caught in the rain with them on my side, take them in & out in the coldest wettest days to check traps or do some scouting & have never left any of them in the truck because it's cold out but in the 25+ years of doing so have never had one not fire it's 5 chambers as reliably & with the same authority as if I had loaded it that day, I think my success is from what I do in the loading process, & what I do to help prevent moisture from getting into the loaded chambers or bore of the loaded weapon.
Yankee:
All of the advantages listed for musket primers echoe my experience. There are really no disadvantages to the musket primers as compared to the standard #11 and even some over the 209. Two of my hunters have been converted and the only other one I trust more would be the one that Wild Bill mentioned for it's weather resistant quailties. I certainly would recommend this conversion for your hunter. As stated, your rifles performance will change some so once again, range time is in order but that's not too bad, is it ??
Be Safe !!!
All of the advantages listed for musket primers echoe my experience. There are really no disadvantages to the musket primers as compared to the standard #11 and even some over the 209. Two of my hunters have been converted and the only other one I trust more would be the one that Wild Bill mentioned for it's weather resistant quailties. I certainly would recommend this conversion for your hunter. As stated, your rifles performance will change some so once again, range time is in order but that's not too bad, is it ??
Be Safe !!!
backyardbeagler
New member
I absolutely love the one that I have on the Renegade thats why I want to convert the White Mountain over to it also. I saw these on another post and was wandering if they are the same thing?
http://www.cabelas.com/cabelas/en/t...h/search-box.jsp.form1&_dyncharset=ISO-8859-1
http://www.cabelas.com/cabelas/en/t...h/search-box.jsp.form1&_dyncharset=ISO-8859-1
A real pic would tell me for sure if its what I want but as of now its the closest that I have found.
http://www.cabelas.com/cabelas/en/t...h/search-box.jsp.form1&_dyncharset=ISO-8859-1
http://www.cabelas.com/cabelas/en/t...h/search-box.jsp.form1&_dyncharset=ISO-8859-1
A real pic would tell me for sure if its what I want but as of now its the closest that I have found.
There's the Magspark ignition device that uses a #209 shotshell primer, but check to see if an adaptor is needed to fit TC's 1/4" X 28 threads:
http://www.warrencustomoutdoor.com/pl-spark-start.html
TC makes musket cap nipples and so does Bloomquist:
http://blomquistpercussionworks.com/products.html
http://www.warrencustomoutdoor.com/pl-spark-start.html
TC makes musket cap nipples and so does Bloomquist:
http://blomquistpercussionworks.com/products.html
No, these are for a standard #11 and will not fit the T.C. rifles because they are metric. T.C. lists one for the musket primer and their rifles. I'm sure you can get them other places. Now Articap lists another style that uses a 209. I think there might be a misprint as I do not see a way you can fit a 209 and it's housing, onto a T.C. Hawken model. The ones I'm familiar with accomodate a pistol or rifle primer. The T.C. cat # for the musket primer is 7252.
Stick with your original plan of the musket primer.
Be Safe !!!
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