Best way to hinge a 1858 cylinder pin?

[BigArthur66]

Been lurking for a very long time, and really appreciate the knowledge that is available from the members here!

On to the question... I bought a Pietta 1858 "target " model for the express purposes of modification... the barrel has been shortened to 4.5" front sight recieved a modern upgrade, howell conversion cyl...etc
Now, I've dovetailed the latch for the lever, but the thickness of the barrel had me pretty shallow to were I felt better silver solderin it in, i placed the latch at the exact point were the pin clears the cylender, so I need to hindge the pin, I've seen a couple of distant pictures, but am hoping someone that's done this could jump in with the best way?

Thanks in advance from the Socialist
Republic of Kalifornia!

Big A

 

[g.willikers]

No opinion about your question, but Welcome to the forum.
And sorry about your having to live in California.

 

[foolzrushn]

Your picture is a little dark, and I'm a little confused.
If I understand...you shortened the barrel, moved and changed the front sight.

Then you made a new dove tail for the loading lever latch on the bottom of the shortened barrel, and using the old latch standoff ( maybe the wrong name) from the cutoff barrel piece, and soldered it in the new dove tail you made.

Here's the part I don't think I understand.....

If the ball ram end of the loading lever(you said 'pin') now just clears the cylinder.... because you have moved the original length loading lever back towards the cylinder? If so, then there won't be enough space to insert a ball for loading on the gun?? I can't tell from the pictures....did you change or shorten the loading lever?

Perhaps some pictures with more light showing the new arrangment at the cylinder end of the lever would help.

Edit: OK looking again..looks like you cut the cylinder end of the lever down, and now the web under the loading lever is not wide enough to redrill the load lever hinge pin hole?

Are you intending to use the 1858 with both the conversion cylinder and cap and ball? Or just making the lever functional enough to retain the cylinder pin?

Picture just too dark for me to see what's going on. Lay it down flat an take another picture and one with just the lever.

 

[drobs]

BA,

I've never shortened one and was actually thinking about this the other day. Seems to me you would need to drill the loading lever to fit latch, spring, and pin. Can you disassemble the one you cut off when you shortened the loading lever? Might get depth measurement of the hole that the spring and latch fits into.

https://www.gunpartscorp.com/Manufa...volvers-43417/Remington1858ArmyNavy-37932.htm

This won't be helpful to you at this point since you have already remounted the barrel stud.

Midway sells the following:
Howell Old West Conversions 1858 Remington Cylinder Pin Quick Release
https://www.midwayusa.com/product/1...ons-1858-remington-cylinder-pin-quick-release

I think what you are working on looks better than the above linked item.

Edit are you working on this part:

 

[BigArthur66]

The replies are apreciated! This is a conversion only build, and was purchased as a bare frame for y he project. the loading lever was shortened, from the front. And while not necessarily, (i looked at the howell clip) I would like to retain the sail, cosmeticly. The original idea, was that the dovetail would drift to the side for complete removal of the cylender pin. Now that the dovetail is soldered, that's not an option. Having the pin fold like I've seen in some pics, should work. Like the one below.
Honestly, hate posting pics of in progress projects... it all looks like a bunch of crap till almost the end! Thanks again for all your input!

BA

 

[drobs]

Ah I see your problem now. The cylinder pin is too long to work with the barrel bolt.

That Colt looks awesome by the way!

 

[foolzrushn]

Thanks. Now I see. You were talking about not being able to remove the cylinder pin. Looks like a toggle link would work fine.

 

[BigArthur66]

Bingo! That is exactly it! My goal is to drop the loading lever, slide cylender pin were it is stopped by the latch at just the point the pin clears the cylender so that it can be removed.

BA

 

[Tidewater_Kid]

Nice Project.

 

[BigArthur66]

Thanks, living in this backwards state we have to work at it... they've just passed new law that will require background checks for ammo purchases... think they might be looking for unregistered firearms?

Hate this state, unfortunately elderly parents. Someday this state will be a distant memory.

 

[45 Dragoon]

I would hinge it as close to the forward end of the pin as I could.
Cool project!!

Mike
www.goonsgunworks.com
Follow me on Instagram @ goonsgunworks

 

[BigArthur66]

Thanks Mike, the input is appreciated! Believe thats what will be the outcome.

Finished the timing up this morning. And am hoping to be able to shoot it with flat black cerakote next week sometime, then it'll be waiting on a gentleman in Iowa to finish the red dyed maple burl for the grips.

On a side note, my 22 yr old son showed up yesterday, grabbed the howell cyl, wax loads and ran off to the garage with his remington... drop in perfect... there was a struggle for the cylender before he left!

BA

 

[swathdiver]

If this were to be done again or on a virgin gun, I think it would be easier to install a threaded stud the rammer catch and simply screw it into the barrel. The tension from the catch will keep it in place and make pulling the pin easy while maintaining its full strength.

The idea of hinging the pin near to the end (ears) will not necessarily weaken the assembly appreciably either. Two good ways to skin the cat.

 

[BigArthur66]

Overnight, I had this thought, 1/16th braided SS cable silver soldered. Seems to do what's necessary. Will have to keep an eye on it wear wize.

BA

 

[DD4lifeusmc]

braided cable is nice idea, but being soft and flexible, it will likely allow the pin to move forward out of the rear frame hole causing some misalignment of the cylinder.
but worth a try

 

[swathdiver]

Just had a thought too. I bet if that cable is long enough to go just past the cylinder, jamming it up due to fouling would be a thing of the past!

 

[foolzrushn]

A soldered cable would probably erode much faster than a solid steel cylinder pin, if exposed to flame from between the cylinder and barrel forcing cone.

I like the vertical toggle-link as shown previously better. Perhaps with one end of the link soldered in the cylinder pin ( only hinged on one end). The small cross pin to fasten the hinged end of the link to the cylinder pin, would be bradded down flush in a countersink, so it would slip into the cylinder pin hole.

 

[BigArthur66]

That may indeed be the case, am planning on picking up a couple more pins, may end up using an end of each to get the hindge I picture... But, it's up and running, and let me finish the majority of the other work prior to redisigning the wheel. Out here in Ca, I don't shoot much, lower profile the better.

BA

 

[45 Dragoon]

I think a "link less " - single pin hinge would be more interesting. You know, with the rounded end and accompanying reverse cut in the forward piece . . . . but, that's just me.

Keep us posted on how the braid works.

Mike
www.goonsgunworks.com
Follow me on Instagram @ goonsgunworks

 

[BigArthur66]

I think so as well, but what I have in mind is going to require 2 pins to complete, at least this will allow me to continue with the other things, and take care of that on the other end, with Christmas comingvup, I get the feeling my project money's going to dry up...

BS