Best Revolver 357magnum/38special

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Rangerrich99

New member
I've pulled the trigger on all three revolvers mentioned in the OP. Currently I have in my possession a S&W revolver and two Ruger wheel guns. Here are my general thoughts:

S&W- best fit and finish of the three. Same goes for trigger in both DA and SA. Good CS. Best investment value of the three. A couple negative points for the internal lock.

Ruger- better fit and finish than the Taurus. Better trigger in both DA and SA than the Taurus. Maybe the best CS of the three. Much better investment value than the Taurus. Probably the strongest revolver of the three mentioned.

Taurus- Decent fit and finish. SA trigger is close to the Ruger's. Not sure about current CS; in the past they weren't known for it. Accuracy was never a problem.

A few more specific notes:

I really like S&W revolvers; always have, especially in .357 magnum. The lock thing is annoying, but I have yet to experience any kind of issue with them. The best thing about the S&W is the trigger; in double action it's significantly better than either of the revolvers. In SA it's only a little better than the Ruger, but it is noticeable.

The Ruger really shines when it comes to handling abuse. If you reload, you can handload some pretty high-powered rounds and the Ruger will take it. Repeatedly. The other thing I like about them is how easy it is to do your own 'trigger job.' Of course, I'm not talking about a professional quality job, but anyone with just a little mechanical know-how can switch out the main and trigger return spring in a GP-100 and instantly have an 8 lb. DA trigger pull for less than $20.

I've pulled the trigger on about a half dozen Taurus revolvers. These are my impressions: Not bad fit and finish. Not as good as the otherr two guns mentioned, but not bad. All of the Taurus wheel guns I tried out were reasonably accurate, in spite of the heavy, gritty, stacky DA trigger. The width of the backstrap is very narrow which doesn't help with felt recoil. Definitely the least comfortable of the three guns to shoot.

And finally, two of the Taurus guns that I shot experienced the same malfunction. I'm no armorer, so I don't know what the exact terminology would be, but in both revolvers the cylinder would somehow become stuck while I was pulling the trigger, thus experiencing a failure to fire. In one of them it happened twice in less than 50 rounds.

This was my buddy's gun, not a range rental that never gets cleaned. My buddy is a bit of a clean freak, and I know that weapon was clean and oiled when he handed it to me. My amateur inspection of the gun showed that the cylinder was actually moving slightly forward during the trigger stroke, sometimes coming into contact with the forcing cone. Sometimes there was enough friction when this happened to prevent the cylinder from rotating further, thereby causing the failure. I actually had to release the trigger and turn the cylinder by hand before pulling the trigger again.

The same exact failure occurred over a year later with another buddy's Taurus 627. Now, I know other friends that love their T revolvers and say they've never had an issue. For myself, I have never had that type of failure with any S&W or Ruger in 25 years, so if I were the OP I'd look at those two brands regardless of price point.

As for buying new vs. used: with Rugers right now it looks like new ones are about $100-$150 more than used, generally speaking.
Hope some of that helps.
 
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Colt46

New member
686 is a great choice

But a bit heavier than the Model 19/66. It might make a difference on your hip after all day carry.
The Taurus Tracker is interesting but QC has been an issue with Taurus in the past.
 
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Elliottsdad

New member
Of those listed, I'd say the Smith will be the most polished/sexy, and the GP-100, though clunky, would be the one you wouldn't mind dinging up on the trail. I'd avoid the Taurus if given the choice.

Because it doesn't need to be concealed or "handy," and it will be more of a trail/fun gun, I'd go 5" either way (though 4" and some change ain't bad).

Also because it's not for defense, take a look at Ruger's single action .357s (the Blackhawk line). They can go for a hundred or so less than the double action offerings. Plus they're sexy.
 
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salvadore

Moderator
Aren't you glad you asked? S&Ws are easy to do action jobs, Rugers are tough, Tauri are spotty. Ya probably need to try them all out and pick the one you like.
 
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Lee6113

New member
I got the chance to fire the Ruger GP100 today in .38 (4" and 6"). I held the Taurus as well, though I'm 99% certain we're going with the ruger or the s&w. We definitely want a double action revolver, and we both liked the 4" better than 6". 5" would be a good one to try I think. I also want too get my hands on a Smith and Wesson to try, because if I can't tell much difference between the 686 and the GP100 then I think I'm gonna go with the GP100. I liked the weight of it, the feel of it, and if it'll last forever than that's good for me. Though if the 686 has a notably better trigger than at might be enough to win...

Again, thanks guys for all the responses!
 
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Sport45

New member
If you don't mind buying used, check out the Dan Wessons. Sweet revolvers and still relatively unknown so sometimes you can find a really good deal. But be warned. After getting one you'll be spending a lot of time searching for the different barrels and stocks to build your own pistol pack.
 
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Doyle

New member
Though if the 686 has a notably better trigger than at might be enough to win...
Click to expand...

Hit Youtube for a few videos on how easy it is to swap out the springs on a Ruger to give you a better trigger pull. It is a 20 minute job and will cost less than a carton of beer.
 
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Independent George

New member
I have a GP-100 and will advocate for it, but let me say a few words in defense of Taurus.

I think Taurus gets dinged unfairly. They are not as polished as the S&W or Ruger, but they're perfectly serviceable on their own merits and significantly less expensive (which is a huge plus if you intend to drag it through the trails). And like most guns, they can be tuned at home if you're diligent.
 
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NINEX19

New member
This should be a poll if you are specific on just those that you listed in the OP.

It's been said many times before, but the GP100 is built like a tank. Out of your list, that would be my vote for your application.
 
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badge851

New member
My recommendation would be the Taurus® Mdl 627 357 Magnum TRACKER™. I've owned a Ruger® GP100 and S&W® 686. The Taurus® is the lightest of the three at 34oz and the recoil absorbing Ribber™ grips are outstanding. If you buy a used Taurus® it still has a lifetime warranty. S&W® only warrants the original purchaser, not the gun as Taurus® does. Ruger® guns come with no warranty whatsoever. I have 11 Taurus® revolvers in 22LR, 22 Mag, 38 Special. 357 Magnum, and 41 Magnum. I have thousands of rounds through each one and am thoroughly pleased with their performance.
 
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mikejonestkd

New member
My vote would be for a 4" 686 or a 4" model 66, with a 4" GP100 as a close third choice.

If you buy a used Taurus® it still has a lifetime warranty. S&W® only warrants the original purchaser, not the gun as Taurus® does. Ruger® guns come with no warranty whatsoever.
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All three companies have well documented evidence showing how well they stand behind their products - S&W and Ruger have my vote, Taurus does not.
 
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PatientWolf

New member
What's the difference between the pre-lock and the normal?
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The pre-locks I've shot seem to be smoother than the recent models to me. I think the triggers just feel better. I think more attention may have been paid to the actions before the lock was installed.

It could be possible that better feel is a result of the pre-locks I've shot simply having been shot more and become smooth through use.
 
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bamaranger

New member
option

I note that the OP is interested in a 686.....and good for him. But I'd suggest that for "hiking" and much holster carry at all, that the L-frame is a pretty heavy revolver. I carried one for about 7 yrs as a duty gun, and the difference between the L and K frame weight and bulk wise, seemed pretty noticeable to me over the course of a shift. I suppose it might matter a bit on how far one intends to "hike".

Thus I'd suggest finding a used K frame. Shoot .38's most of the time, stoke it w/ .357 if purposes get more serious. Considerably lighter than the L.

I'd add that the issued 4" L-frame was several ounces HEAVIER, than my personally owned 4" 629 Mtn Gun in .44!!!!
 
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tallball

New member
My experiences:

I own two S&W revolvers. One is a 38 special and one is a 32long. They both have smallish sights and okay triggers. They are both about 100 years old. The new ones would have modernized sights and triggers, but might not last 100 years.

I have had two single-action Ruger revolvers. They are/were both excellent. My SP101 is disappointing - its trigger is mediocre at best. My FiL has a GP100 that is outstanding in every way.

I have had about ten Taurus revolvers. Two 357's and two snub 38's are/were excellent. The 32 H&R magnum had to go back to the factory twice. The rest have worked fine, but the triggers are so-so.

If you are going to carry it around much, you want a medium-framed 4". That is an extremely versatile size. My FiL's 6" GP100 is outstandingly accurate, but I wouldn't want to carry that brick around with me.


Are you 100% sure that a single-action is off the table? Ruger Blackhawks are awesome for targets, plinking, trailguns, etc.

If a revolver locks up well and has good rifling I have no problems buying a used one. Rugers and Smith's make some good revolvers, but my older Taurus model 66 357's have been as good as any I have shot. I have not found a newer one with a trigger as good.
 
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Lee6113

New member
I am sure I want a double action revolver, yes.
4" or close was fine after shooting them both (at least the GP100).


In terms of K frame vs L frame, I actually like the bigger L frame better. I haven't actually carried it around all day, tho. I don't think it would be a big deal.. I feel like I can control it better than the K frame.


I know someone asked this already, but what exactly is the new lock on a s&w? Is it something you have to unlock every time or is it just like a switch safety you can leave off, an internal mechanism..?


And final question: Whats the difference between a .44magnum and a .357?
 
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steveNChunter

New member
I'm going to meet a gentleman in the morning to buy a like new 686-3(-3s have no internal lock, no MIM parts, chromed trigger and hammer) with a 6" barrel for $580. I feel like that's a pretty good deal. My advice to the OP is be patient and watch the used market for a S&W or Ruger at a good price. I was looking at new Taurus/Rossi's before I saw the used 686-3 for sale.
 
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