Belgian Shotgun. I brush my teeth with gun powder so I can shoot off my mouth.

bobn said:

Perhaps some of the automobile engine crack testing hacks might help. hmm

1) Concur. Magnaflux it to find latent cracks/fissures.

2) You can also X-ray it (your vet may do it).

3) Proof test it (see Dixie catalog for instructions).
 

Doc Hoy

New member
Test rest

This is a photo of the stand that I built for working on long arms and for test firing same.

The handle that tightens the stock clamp is on the opposite side (the side not visible in the photo).

Of course, the stock would be far lower in the stock clamp when test firing.

When I tested the Stevens Favorite, I was able to clamp the rifle in such a way as to be able to point the target. With the Favorite, movement of the stand from recoil was very minimal.
 

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Doc Hoy

New member
I found a reference to...

"Schepers", Belgian firearms maker. Image has a close resemblance to mine.

I did not find the name on the barrels.

Anyone know anything about Schepers?
 
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RC20

New member
In regards to the post, you post and then don't expect feedback? Oh my (grin)

Ok, I will put my 2 gr of powder in. No gunsmith can tell you if its shootable or not. You have done everything they would have. And I would agree with a CYA statement of shoot it at your own risk from a gunsmith (saw a kaboom a gunsmith employee incurred testing a gun for a client, said employee lost 5 teeth and it was traced to use of pistol powder in a 300 WM by a person who supplies "custom" ammo.

Not even sure a magnaflux of a barrel would tell you what you need to know.

So, yep, per others, do it remotely and carefully and let us know!
 

Doc Hoy

New member
Yep

Always happy for any and all feedback. I hope I did not leave the impression that I am asking for advice which I intended to ignore.

And I agree, I will test fire carefully using the test bed I mentioned and a thirty foot length of wadded up string which is always in my range box. Light loads.

Prolly won't magnaflux the barrel relying more on the test firing. Sorry, Gary. I agree with your astute advice. Just too lazy and cheap to find a place that will magnaflux it.

(This is Naples Florida and when you walk through the door, the dollar signs appear like a Popeye the sailor cartoon, in the eyes of the guy behind the counter. Gunsmiths are as scarce as hen's teeth. And when you ask a "craftsman" to do something with which he has little familiarity, you have to endure about eight paragraphs of insults.

Xray of a cat's leg at any vet in this town runs about $200.00. This shotgun is worth about a buck and a quarter and I already have the test bed and line to shoot it remotely.)

I do acknowledge that a shotgun of this age, could be fired a thousand times and the thousand and first is still a test fire.
 

Doc Hoy

New member
Went to work on the lock for this shotgun

Wanted to correct two problems:

1. Full cock sear on the tumbler was worn and unsafe.
2. Hammer was loose on the sear tumbler stud.

So I remade the sear tumbler. I know that I could have filed the sear and used a shim for the hammer but I wanted to prove I could make the part.

While working the tumbler I decided to also drill and tap the bridle screws. Went from about M3.5 to M4. Made the screws in the lathe to give them the vintage patina.

Heat treated the tumbler.
 

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Doc Hoy

New member
Finally had some time to fool with this shotgun

I finished the rough tumbler including hand fitting to get it to work like the original.

Put the thing together to make sure of fit and function.

Made the screw to hold the hammer in place.
 

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Pahoo

New member
Nice work

I finished the rough tumbler including hand fitting to get it to work like the original.
Doc, nice work and my compliments. "Tumblers" take a long time, to wear out and to date, I have only had to replace one, with my limited talent and equipment. This project also reveils your dedication that most folks would not put forth. .... ;)

Be Safe !!!
 

Doc Hoy

New member
Thanks, Pahoo

The next project on this shotgun is to restore the hammer on the same lock. The lead edge of the cap face is nearly gone. I am practicing with some scrap, learning the way to build up the metal. That done, I will grind it down to the original shape.
 

Doc Hoy

New member
Gary

Used mild steel and heat treated. Raised to a cherry red and then quenched in oil for about thirty minutes. Unfortunately, I think the steel is not great quality for tempering.
 

tangolima

New member
Heat treating mild steel doesn't do anything. It doesn't have high enough carbon content. Case hardening is the way.

-TL

Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk
 

Doc Hoy

New member
Yep...

Also found "Cherry Red" for about the same price, given shipping.

Any difference between these two products?
 

tangolima

New member
Also found "Cherry Red" for about the same price, given shipping.



Any difference between these two products?
Heard of it but haven't never used that myself. I think they are similar products under different names.

You want used the compound outside. It makes a lot of fumes. Avoid breathing in that stuff. You may need to do multiple passes to build up enough case depth.

-TL

Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk
 

Doc Hoy

New member
Thanks you guys...

And by saying thanks, I don't mean to cut off the conversation. If more info or opinion is available, please post it. I just wanted to register my appreciation quickly.

I am going to give this a try. Details at 11:00.
 

Doc Hoy

New member
Ordered a one pound container

Forty bucks. Twice as much per pound as the five pound tub. Gets here Friday.
 
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