AR15 Barrel

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Kevin_d77

New member
I am doing my first AR build and my last piece is the barrel. This will be for HD and range use, no hunting etc. I'm running mostly PSA parts, Magpul furniture and the Fortis FDE 14 quad rail. Now on to barrels...

I'm thinking 16" barrel, 1:7 twist, mid length gas system. I am running flip up sights and an Aimpoint Pro so I don't want a front sight post. I would like to keep the barrel around 300 or under. Any suggestions and/or links to buy? A friend pointed me to a DRD 16" FN Hammer forged barrel that came w the gas block etc, but I know nothing of the company.

Thanks for helping a Noob out!
 
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Theohazard

New member
For HD and range use I'd use a 1:9. Your barrel will last longer and will be perfect for the low- to medium-weight bullets you'll primarily be shooting. The only way I'd recommend a 1:7 is if you're looking to shoot super-heavy bullets for long-range use.
 
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Kevin_d77

New member
Interesting, I guess I had read that 1:7 was better for the ability to shoot all different weight bullets so I was trying to plan ahead.

So 1:9 would be better? Would 1:8 be the better compromise?
 
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MarkCO

New member
I use 1:8 for my match guns as I might want the best accuracy for 77s here and there. The ARs I build for "work", "defense" etc. all have 1:9s. They shoot 69s to MOA out at 300 yards which is plenty good.
 
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Kevin_d77

New member
What about the difference between chrome lined vs stainless steel vs xxxx? Which is best and if they cost relatively the same, which to get?

Thanks for the help! I'm still new to the AR game and I trust this forum a great deal!
 
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Theohazard

New member
A stainless barrel won't be as durable or corrosion-resistant as a chrome-lined barrel, but it will usually be more accurate; chrome lining can't be applied perfectly smooth and therefore tends to lower the accuracy slightly.

Now many manufacturers are starting to use a nitriding treatment instead of chrome lining. Nitriding is cheaper, more durable, and isn't a true coating so you don't have the slight loss of accuracy that you do with the chrome lining. Nitride has many different names, the most common is Melanite. And I'm guessing the reason that most barrels still use chrome-lining instead of nitride is because the military still specs chrome-lining.
 
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Kevin_d77

New member
So for a normal plinker, HD gun in the Florida heat and humidity the chrome lined would work best?

I'm having a hard time even find a bunch of barrels in stock! Thought I could find a PSA barrel but they are almost all being used on complete uppers which I don't need . I don't mind spending a little extra on the barrel and trigger.
 
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Theohazard

New member
Kevin_d77 said:
Well, this is what I got! Hope I did good!
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Perfect! In my opinion those are the ideal specs for an all-around 16" 5.56 rifle. 1:8 is the best compromise for shooting the biggest variety of bullet weights, melonite is better than chrome lining, and a mid-length gas system is ideal for a 16" barrel. I'm not familiar with that manufacturer, but it sure looks like you did good!
 
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Theohazard

New member
Kevin_d77 said:
Looks like it's made by FN for DRD so it should be a quality piece I suppose?
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Duh, I skimmed it and thought the manufacturer was Republic of Texas Arms. Yeah, you're definitely good to go as far as the manufacturer also!
 
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MarkCO

New member
I shoot 40 to 69 grains through my barrels with the same basic specs. There is no significant accuracy difference. If you shoot really thin jacket 40s, you might pop a vapor cloud here and there, but for the most part you should be good until the gas port roughens up or the crown goes away. Granted, that should be many thousands of rounds.

A stainless barrel won't be as durable or corrosion-resistant as a chrome-lined barrel, but it will usually be more accurate; chrome lining can't be applied perfectly smooth and therefore tends to lower the accuracy slightly
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Not really. Chrome lining helped with ammonia and some other corrosives that used to be common in ammo, but are largely gone. If done well, on a polished bore, chrome lining can certainly deliver very good accuracy. The accuracy symptom is more one freezing the bore imperfections and not allowing the barrel to settle in due to firing a few hundred rounds. Then, chrome lining fractures after a point, especially at the muzzle and gas port. These cracks degrade accuracy and result in crevice corrosion cracking that stainless barrels are immune to.
 
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Kevin_d77

New member
Cool, thanks!

What about flash hiders or muzzle breaks? Are they just cosmetic preference? Is there a certain model or make that's better?

One last question, I heard people talking about head space, how do I check that or is that even something I need to worry about? I'm running PSA upper, lower and full auto BCG if that info is needed for discussion.
 
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MarkCO

New member
Flash hiders are window dressing on most ARs. They can be used for a QD supressor, and they will kill some flash if you think you might be attacked by people 1000 yards out or so. Inside eyeball distance, no benefit except to protect the crown and threads.

Comps are usually loud, but they do help keep the muzzle flatter. Some are popular for reasons other than performance. PWS and BattleComp are some hybrids that work okay. I think the Dynamic Resistance comp is the best on the market right now. It is inexpensive, was designed based on gas dynamics instead of a water hose, and is light and relatively quiet.

Head space is set by the manufacturer on most AR barrels. The extension is actually threaded onto the barrel and that sets headspace. I have checked well over 500 factory barrels, and all were right. I am not saying don't check it, but I'd be shocked if it is not correct.
 
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