AR grip screw length

[deerslayer303]

Lol more than a few. I guess that makes sense though. To my knowledge they would turn em into the armory and get another one if a major problem arose. I could be totally off base though. But a good subject for coffee talk with the ole man.

 

[stagpanther]

Lol more than a few. I guess that makes sense though. To my knowledge they would turn em into the armory and get another one. But a good subject for coffee talk with the ole man.

You're question was why would you want to remove one--not why would anyone in the military deployed would--which based on what I've read elsewhere is verbotten unless you're designated/certified to do so.

 

[deerslayer303]

You're right, that was my question. Buy my train of thought was any time other than a SHTF scenario, I would have a hex drive where I could get to it. So in my eyes the Allen screw is no biggie. [emoji2]

 

[fourbore]

This is probably beyond beating a dead horse, but; FWIW. The threads are anodized over. This may have some benefits such as preventing galling, corrosion resistance and even a little added strength. I dont know this and since I am unsure, it seems safer to me to use the shorter screw.

 

[stagpanther]

This is probably beyond beating a dead horse, but; FWIW. The threads are anodized over. This may have some benefits such as preventing galling, corrosion resistance and even a little added strength. I dont know this and since I am unsure, it seems safer to me to use the shorter screw.

There's a flip side to that: since the last portion of the grip hole is unthreaded generally-- it ends up being a hole at the bottom of the receiver underneath the trigger--so guess where residue, grease and other gunk can accumulate over time and is not cleaned all that often?

 

[Quentin2]

You're right, that was my question. Buy my train of thought was any time other than a SHTF scenario, I would have a hex drive where I could get to it. So in my eyes the Allen screw is no biggie.

The thing is you never know what might happen, and at the worst time. (Well, Murphy does!) You might need to get to that selector detent fast. Or the pivot pin AND selector detents on a 308 AR. Anyway, the flat head screw always fixes pistol grips to my AR builds.

 

[Ibmikey]

One thing i learned at the M-16 maintenance shop at a local AFB was a simple method of removing the selector lever without removing the grip. I will deffer the procedure to others as the last time i brought it up several of the "experts" said it would destroy the recevier. I have removed the levers numerous times without damage as did the AF mechanics.

 

[fourbore]

Some might mistakenly think they have to remove the safety to access the two trigger pieces. The trigger parts are easy in and out without removing the safety. My safeties are not selectors.

Anyone with Anderson lower and an official 1" slotted screw available could easily use that screw. As already pointed out, cut it back 1/4 inch.

 

[stagpanther]

On most conventional mil-spec triggers you can remove the trigger without pulling the safety/selector out. However, if you are replacing the selector itself--or are using a trigger (like a JP or Jard) that uses a sear engagement timing mechanism of some sort that engages the floor of the receiver fire-control well--in many cases you will at least need to back the grip out far enough that you can at least slide the selector all the way out to where the trigger clears it.

Point is--if you work on triggers, or replace grips and receiver pins, you're going to be taking the grip screw in and out sooner or later.

As for the type of screw head I don't think it makes a huge difference--although as a matter of preference I find a hex-head easier to work with (especially if the drive is magnetized) since you're screwing at an angle and are more likely to maintain a good engagement through the torquing process.

 

[fourbore]

lthough as a matter of preference I find a hex-head easier to work with

I used both types and I had the same experience. The hex drive is easier to guide the screw in. I was careful to use a flat washer so that I had the same holding surface. The hex head is much smaller in diameter. With the hex drive I omit the lock washer and substitute a flat washer. That could be another can of worms! I am joking. Really.

For me, I dont use a conventional screwdriver at all on any guns. I use a driver with bits: flat, allen, hex or torx as needed. I can deal with any and all. I guess I got a magnetic shank if I though about it prior to drive the slotted screws. The hex bit is tight enough too hold the screw without a magnet.

are more likely to maintain a good engagement through the torquing process.

That is a fact.