grubbylabs
New member
I just got my first 1911, I know Its not exactly a traditional 1911 but so far I really like it.
Any advice for a new 1911 owner?
Any advice for a new 1911 owner?
Advice for a new 1911 owner
- Thread starter grubbylabs
- Start date
At each range session devote some time to shooting like this:
Chamber a round
Engage manual safety to place it on safe
Raise gun and swipe the safety to off safe with thumb
Shoot one shot
Engage manual safety on safe again and repeat
In other words spend some quality time swiping your safety off safe for each shot until it becomes second nature. You can tell when you have mastered it when you start swiping the safety off of guns that do not have them.
Most people I see at the range chamber a round in their 1911 and never touch their safety at all. That is a very dangerous way to practice because you are training yourself to shoo the gun without touching the safety and in a real situation you might fall back on the way you trained.
The other thing is if you carry it, carry it cocked and locked. If you cannot bring yourself to do that, it is the wrong gun for you because there is no assurance that you will have the use of your left hand in a fight.
Chamber a round
Engage manual safety to place it on safe
Raise gun and swipe the safety to off safe with thumb
Shoot one shot
Engage manual safety on safe again and repeat
In other words spend some quality time swiping your safety off safe for each shot until it becomes second nature. You can tell when you have mastered it when you start swiping the safety off of guns that do not have them.
Most people I see at the range chamber a round in their 1911 and never touch their safety at all. That is a very dangerous way to practice because you are training yourself to shoo the gun without touching the safety and in a real situation you might fall back on the way you trained.
The other thing is if you carry it, carry it cocked and locked. If you cannot bring yourself to do that, it is the wrong gun for you because there is no assurance that you will have the use of your left hand in a fight.
grubbylabs
New member
I got a Sig Ultra.
Good advice Old Dog, have recently found the new holster I use for my 9mm, I had developed an inadvertent tendency to bump ( activate )the safety on re-holster, so when it was my turn to shoot again, safety was on( not so good when you expect it to be off.)
So developed a new habit that had me always placing my thumb on top and pushing down to deactivate the safety on presentation.
Being a new 1911 owner as well all these little tips help.
So developed a new habit that had me always placing my thumb on top and pushing down to deactivate the safety on presentation.
Being a new 1911 owner as well all these little tips help.
Untill you field strip a few times, you may want to place a pice of masking tape underneath the slide stop notch to avoid the "idiot mark." And, yes, I have one on one of my 1911s (a Sig, BTW). Eventually, you won't need it. If you already have the scratch, don't worry about it. It's almost like a rite of passage.
Most 1911s prefer to run a bit on the "wet" side, meaning liberal lubrication on the rails, especially during break-in. Lots of good choices in lubes. Everybody, including me, has their favorite so I won't start that discussion here. The truth is that most work fine.
Is this pistol for target/plinking/sport or is it for possible use for defense? If the latter, first fire about 200 to 250 rounds of FMJ through it to make sure it functions well and to familiarize yourself with the gun. Then pick out a modern hollow point round and put at least 50 rounds through it to test functionality. There are several good rounds available and it's an endless debate as to which is better. I won't go down that road on this thread. However, unless you order online, local choices may be limited.
Most 1911s prefer to run a bit on the "wet" side, meaning liberal lubrication on the rails, especially during break-in. Lots of good choices in lubes. Everybody, including me, has their favorite so I won't start that discussion here. The truth is that most work fine.
Is this pistol for target/plinking/sport or is it for possible use for defense? If the latter, first fire about 200 to 250 rounds of FMJ through it to make sure it functions well and to familiarize yourself with the gun. Then pick out a modern hollow point round and put at least 50 rounds through it to test functionality. There are several good rounds available and it's an endless debate as to which is better. I won't go down that road on this thread. However, unless you order online, local choices may be limited.
Larry K - Are you saying that you're holstering your 1911 cocked with the safety off and accidently putting the safety on as you holster it? Put the safety on before holstering, sweep it off on presentation. DON'T holster a loaded and cocked SA pistol with the safety off, you're asking for trouble if you do, snag the trigger on something and it only takes a few pounds of pressure to fire the gun.
It actually happens when holstering my M&P 9, either in battery ( on the "shooter make ready" command, and when holstering after the " Show safe" command) this particular holster has limited thumb space to the inside, so I tend to accidently hit the safety on re holster in each case.
Of course now being aware I am doing this helps a lot, but to be sure the safety is off when I move to the "presentation" point, I now am working on the habit of placing my strong hand thumb above the safety, and pushing down (safety off).
The 1911 is new ( 2 days ago) and have only shot it at an indoor range, haven't even picked up a holster for it yet ( suggestions welcomed )
Just the first couple times this happened it cost me time on the stage when no boom on the trigger squeeze. Benefit however is I know I am not jerking the trigger, as all I get when I expect the boom, is the stress shiver of applying more pressure than expected on the trigger pull.
I do however see the benefit of allowing that habit to develop ( Safety on @ re holster) then continuing to develop the safety off on presentation
Of course now being aware I am doing this helps a lot, but to be sure the safety is off when I move to the "presentation" point, I now am working on the habit of placing my strong hand thumb above the safety, and pushing down (safety off).
The 1911 is new ( 2 days ago) and have only shot it at an indoor range, haven't even picked up a holster for it yet ( suggestions welcomed
)Just the first couple times this happened it cost me time on the stage when no boom on the trigger squeeze. Benefit however is I know I am not jerking the trigger, as all I get when I expect the boom, is the stress shiver of applying more pressure than expected on the trigger pull.
I do however see the benefit of allowing that habit to develop ( Safety on @ re holster) then continuing to develop the safety off on presentation
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Parts & pieces....
If you own a new 1911a1, there are many good resources & custom features you can get. Add-ons are not required but there are things that can enhance or improve your new 1911a1 pistol.
You can buy new grips that might work better for you. There's wood, rubber, G10, polymer, lasergrips, etc. Depending on your budget & tastes, you should find a good set of after-market grips. Hogue is a popular grip & has many choices for 1911s.
A match grade barrel from Bar-Sto, KKM, Jarvis or Storm-Lake may be worth it.
Irv Stone of Bar-Sto produced many target grade barrels to the pistol teams in the US armed forces for match grade 1911s.
KKM is a great design too, IMO.
Wilson Combat is widely known for the best 1911 series magazines. Others like Chip McCormick or Tripp Research but Id buy a few Wilson mags first.
Brownells, www.brownells.com markets a special catalog just for the 1911a1 format. They sell all the cleaning products, parts, grips, sights, etc.
As for 1911a1 sights, Id go with the Trijicon HD series. If you plan to use the 1911a1 for defense or carry, Id buy after market night sights. There are several good brands on the US market but Id go with Trijicon.
If you want any custom or after-market service work, see; www.americanpistol.com . You can find a decent pistolsmith who can tune or work on your new 1911a1 to make sure it's ready to defend you.
Action jobs, polished feed ramps, meld(remove) sharp edges, install sights, throat barrels for JHPs, etc are some of the common gunsmith services.
You can also get the pistol & magazines treated with a protective system like Metalife SS C, Robar NP3/NP3+, Black T, CeraKote.
As for carry ammunition, Id suggest the Hornady Critical Duty 220gr load, the Corbon DPX, the Speer Gold Dot 230gr JHP +P, the HST 230gr +P, the Magsafe SWAT(for home defense).
Enjoy your pistol & stay safe;
Clyde
If you own a new 1911a1, there are many good resources & custom features you can get. Add-ons are not required but there are things that can enhance or improve your new 1911a1 pistol.
You can buy new grips that might work better for you. There's wood, rubber, G10, polymer, lasergrips, etc. Depending on your budget & tastes, you should find a good set of after-market grips. Hogue is a popular grip & has many choices for 1911s.
A match grade barrel from Bar-Sto, KKM, Jarvis or Storm-Lake may be worth it.
Irv Stone of Bar-Sto produced many target grade barrels to the pistol teams in the US armed forces for match grade 1911s.
KKM is a great design too, IMO.
Wilson Combat is widely known for the best 1911 series magazines. Others like Chip McCormick or Tripp Research but Id buy a few Wilson mags first.
Brownells, www.brownells.com markets a special catalog just for the 1911a1 format. They sell all the cleaning products, parts, grips, sights, etc.
As for 1911a1 sights, Id go with the Trijicon HD series. If you plan to use the 1911a1 for defense or carry, Id buy after market night sights. There are several good brands on the US market but Id go with Trijicon.
If you want any custom or after-market service work, see; www.americanpistol.com . You can find a decent pistolsmith who can tune or work on your new 1911a1 to make sure it's ready to defend you.
Action jobs, polished feed ramps, meld(remove) sharp edges, install sights, throat barrels for JHPs, etc are some of the common gunsmith services.
You can also get the pistol & magazines treated with a protective system like Metalife SS C, Robar NP3/NP3+, Black T, CeraKote.
As for carry ammunition, Id suggest the Hornady Critical Duty 220gr load, the Corbon DPX, the Speer Gold Dot 230gr JHP +P, the HST 230gr +P, the Magsafe SWAT(for home defense).
Enjoy your pistol & stay safe;
Clyde
grubbylabs
New member
I did buy 100 rounds of ball ammo last night. to put through it, but it was pain full to pay for ammo since I have been casting and loading my own. I even cast a HP that If I can get it to feed 100% I will just carry it. I did buy it for my daily carry. I am hoping that the single stack is more comfortable than the double stack I currently have.
Time to go put some ball ammo through it.
Time to go put some ball ammo through it.
spacecoast
New member
Seems like very good advice. I learned a bit about the safety yesterday while calling a Bullseye match. Just before a Timed Fire string I chambered a round and engaged the safety before putting down the gun to slide over to the mike and ask if the line was ready. When the target turned I had forgotten to swipe the safety off and spent a few seconds of confusion trying to figure out what was wrong before remembering what I needed to do.
grubbylabs
New member
It would seem that I either need to add a touch more crimp to my reloads, or shorten my C.O.L because factory ball ammo runs perfectly though it, no matter if its the Colt mag I have or the factory Sig mag. My reloads however that have been functioning perfectly in my XDc seem to need a little help chambering and even feeding.
1911's have been and will be my primary carry guns...
personally, I prefer Kramer leather..Inside waist band - horsehide with a forward FBI tilt.../ but talk to Kramer, because the Sig has a little different slide silhouette and many 1911 specific holsters will not fit the Sig 1911's..
I put nothing but jacketed ammo thru my 1911's ( in 9mm and .45acp )..Montana Gold is the bullet I prefer.
IN general, I like my 1911's to run a little on the wet side vs dry...and I use Wilson Combat's ultima lube / or Break Free.
Invest in good mags.../ I prefer Wilson mags in all of my 1911's ( Baer, Brown, Kimber and Wilson ) but I have not tried a Wilson mag in a Sig / the only Sig 1911's I've fired have been range rental guns - and they were nice solid guns / but I don't own one.
Other than that....shoot it a lot / and enjoy it ! ( and clean, lube and take care of it ) ....many of my 1911's are coming up on 50,000 rds thru them with no issues / I hope you have the same results !
personally, I prefer Kramer leather..Inside waist band - horsehide with a forward FBI tilt.../ but talk to Kramer, because the Sig has a little different slide silhouette and many 1911 specific holsters will not fit the Sig 1911's..
I put nothing but jacketed ammo thru my 1911's ( in 9mm and .45acp )..Montana Gold is the bullet I prefer.
IN general, I like my 1911's to run a little on the wet side vs dry...and I use Wilson Combat's ultima lube / or Break Free.
Invest in good mags.../ I prefer Wilson mags in all of my 1911's ( Baer, Brown, Kimber and Wilson ) but I have not tried a Wilson mag in a Sig / the only Sig 1911's I've fired have been range rental guns - and they were nice solid guns / but I don't own one.
Other than that....shoot it a lot / and enjoy it ! ( and clean, lube and take care of it ) ....many of my 1911's are coming up on 50,000 rds thru them with no issues / I hope you have the same results !
Kreyzhorse
New member
Yes! Do this until you are comfortable with it.
By the Ky Jim, thanks for posting this after I cleaned my beloved Springfield TRP the first time....
Train the draw like this: draw to index point, push to engage support hand, disengage safety, push to shooting position while putting finger on trigger.
Train to reholster as: put trigger finger along side of frame, pull gun in close(high ready), engage thumb safety, look around, separate support hand from gun, while moving to holster, put thumb on back of slide and allow grip safety to engage, slide pistol in holster keeping slide forward with thumb.
Change recoil springs and mag springs regularly.
Train to reholster as: put trigger finger along side of frame, pull gun in close(high ready), engage thumb safety, look around, separate support hand from gun, while moving to holster, put thumb on back of slide and allow grip safety to engage, slide pistol in holster keeping slide forward with thumb.
Change recoil springs and mag springs regularly.
1911 model holsters....
For carry holsters or general use, Id check these well made brands; Don Hume, Galco, Safariland, Blackhawk, High Noon Holsters, Wright Leather Works, Milt Sparks, Kramer, Mitch Rosen, Alessi, Bianchi(M92II/field use), Kirkpatrick Leather, COM holsters, Blade-tech.
Many armed professionals & "operators" like the Safariland SFS & ALS holsters.
Others like the Kydex Thumb-Drive from Blade-tech or the SERPA CQC design from Blackhawk.
Some makers offer bull, rhino, horsehide, shark, etc. The custom shops may take months or even years due to high demand.
For shoulder holsters, Id look at a Lawman Leathergoods STU, a Galco Miami Classic II, a Aker Comfort-Flex, a Ted Blocker Lifeline(used on the crime show; Bones).
Always contact the holster maker first to ensure they have the style you want & that it fits your specific model. Minor changes or styles occur often.
Clyde F
For carry holsters or general use, Id check these well made brands; Don Hume, Galco, Safariland, Blackhawk, High Noon Holsters, Wright Leather Works, Milt Sparks, Kramer, Mitch Rosen, Alessi, Bianchi(M92II/field use), Kirkpatrick Leather, COM holsters, Blade-tech.
Many armed professionals & "operators" like the Safariland SFS & ALS holsters.
Others like the Kydex Thumb-Drive from Blade-tech or the SERPA CQC design from Blackhawk.
Some makers offer bull, rhino, horsehide, shark, etc. The custom shops may take months or even years due to high demand.
For shoulder holsters, Id look at a Lawman Leathergoods STU, a Galco Miami Classic II, a Aker Comfort-Flex, a Ted Blocker Lifeline(used on the crime show; Bones).
Always contact the holster maker first to ensure they have the style you want & that it fits your specific model. Minor changes or styles occur often.
Clyde F
Aguila Blanca
Staff
Are you saying that you are allowed to compete with a pistol that has a manual safety, and NOT have the safety on when holstered? Is this IPSC or IDPA?Larry K said:
The competitions at the range where I shoot are informal, not sanctioned by either USPSA or IDPA, but one of the rules is that a manual safety MUST be engaged when the gun is in the holster. No exceptions.
marine6680
New member
I found some interesting writeups and tests of all types of 1911 magazines.
It explains haw a 1911 was designed to feed (controlled feed btw) and why some types of ammo cause issues. It also explains why there are so many types of magazines and what problems they are designed to solve.
1911 mags Part 1
1911 mags Part 2
1911 mags Part 3
1911 mags Part 2, The sequel (the admins broke up the original making for two part 2s, but they are different )
It explains haw a 1911 was designed to feed (controlled feed btw) and why some types of ammo cause issues. It also explains why there are so many types of magazines and what problems they are designed to solve.
1911 mags Part 1
1911 mags Part 2
1911 mags Part 3
1911 mags Part 2, The sequel (the admins broke up the original making for two part 2s, but they are different )
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and what if the weapon does not have a manual safety? such as the M&P 9 ( comes either with or without, mine happens to be with ) it is still cocked and loaded! the only difference is the additional manual safety.
So short answer. . .Yes, IDPA rules allows you to be in the ready position with safety either engaged or disengaged, strictly shooters choice. The M&P ( and many others) is a restrike design, has no hammer and requires a finger on the trigger to disengage the internal safety, so I guess one could say safety IS engaged. ( finger stays off the trigger until muzzle is on the target).
Now in light of the other posts, and a realization the 1911 does not have that function ( internal safety is on the palm swell which would be disengaged upon gripping to withdraw the weapon from the holster) I see the concern in developing the habit to make sure the manual safety is always on, and am intending to actively develop this habit for all my weapons.
Setting the safety on prior to Re-holster on completing the COF is sort of moot, as the weapon is visually verified to have an empty chamber, by the shooter, and the SO, the slide moved to the closed position, and no magazine is allowed to be in the weapon. Also required is to point the now twice visually verified empty weapon down range and pull the trigger on the empty chamber, then finally re-holster ( magazine is not allowed to be in the weapon until the next ready position). Now the 1911 ( at least mine that is, can only have the manual safety engaged IF the slide is racked to the "Cocked and ready" position ( a no-no in IDPA after verifying the safe condition to my knowledge).
First part I have been doing, it is the second part that is a good point, currently I have been ( quite by accident however) doing upon holstering.
Still excellent description, and based on the differences between a restrike and a 1911, appropriate to both.
now as to the other post, on changing the mag and recoil springs "regularly" what would or do you consider regularly? have heard both pro's and con's on this. Some have gone years, some change them during winter breaks ( more an issue of boredom? )